Belize

Located on the East Coast of Central America, sharing a northern border with Mexico and otherwise surrounded by Guatemala, Belize is often called “Mother Nature’s Best-Kept Secret”—though it seems that the secret is definitely out. World-class diving, eco-adventures, boutique luxury resorts, and an evolving culinary scene are just a few of the reasons tourism is on the rise. Belize’s cultural heritage is rich, and the diverse influences are reflected in today’s food, music, dance, and folklore. Despite its seemingly small size, Belize offers ample adventure for adrenaline junkies, while miles of beaches and secluded rain forest retreats beckon travelers looking for a little R & R.

AFAR-Guide-Belize-TomPrior.jpg

Photo by Tom Prior

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Belize?

Belize is subject to the Atlantic hurricane season, so expect June through early November to be on the wetter side. Thankfully, Belize is spared from most major tropical storms. But if you are planning to tackle a lot of activities, low season is a gamble. When rains are heavy, roads and rivers on the mainland may be compromised. It’s not uncommon for Maya sites and caves to be closed due to flooding.

December through April is definitely the high season in Belize. The biggest influx of visitors is around the end of the year and Easter week. May is also a good time to visit, when things begin to mellow and businesses offer specials as they scale down for the impending slow season. Expect some restaurant closures and scaled-back staff at resorts during September and October, when many local businesses give their employees time off, take their own vacations, and gear up for the upcoming high season.

How to get around Belize

As of Dec. 14, 2020. Daily flights arrive into Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport (BZE) near Belize City. Large hubs like Atlanta, Houston, and Miami offer the most convenient routes on American, Delta, and United; while weekend flights go between Belize City and Newark, Chicago, and Denver. Many mainland resorts can arrange for airport shuttle service (for a fee) to pick up guests. Belize charges a departure tax, but flights booked through major U.S. carriers have the fees included. Currently, the fee for non-residents departing Belize is about US$35 per person. There are two airports in Belize City—International (BZE) and Municipal Belize City (TZA)—approximately a 20-minute drive apart. Tropic Air and Maya Island Air offer flights to the most-visited destinations, including the Cayes. There are rental car agencies at the airports, and scheduled bus service runs on the mainland between larger villages.

Food and drink to try in Belize

Food is not one of the main reasons travelers choose to visit Belize, but it should be! With so many cultural influences at play in the country’s cuisine, Belizean food is underrated. Look for Garifuna, Maya, Lebanese, Chinese, East Indian, and other international cuisines throughout Belize. Without a doubt, the most popular local dish is stewed chicken with rice and beans.

Fresh seafood is abundant throughout the country, especially in the Cayes, though lobster and conch fishing is tightly regulated, with fines for sale and consumption outside the allotted seasons. You’ll find Belizeans are passionate about their barbecue. It’s nearly impossible to walk down the beach on a Sunday without smelling a grill nearby. Snacks and street food in Belize are definitely worth seeking out. Not-to-miss breakfast specialties include fry jacks and johnnycakes. And no matter what you eat, a meal is not complete without locally produced Marie Sharp’s Hot Sauce on top!

When it comes to drinks, a cold Belikin always hits the spot, and for the occasional morning hangover—or goma, as most call it—try a Michelada. Tropical drinks are everywhere, with unique local spins on tried-and-true favorites. Belize produces several varieties of rum, liqueurs, and even wines made with cashews and blackberries.

Islands to visit in Belize

Belize’s top two tourism hot spots, Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, are its two most populous islands, some 21 miles off the coast of Belize City. In San Pedro, Ambergris Caye’s main town, tourists spend their days diving, snorkeling, and fishing: The coral reef’s white froth is visible less than a mile from shore. Nights are for partying and bar-hopping. The southern and northern ends of Ambergris are more suited to seclusion and romance. Sister island Caye Caulker is a smaller, laid-back Caribbean version of the two, with sand-only streets (no cars here), more local eats than fine dining, and a deeply rooted Creole culture. Caye Caulker’s offshore adventures and treasures include a marine reserve, mangroves for kayak exploration, and breathtaking sunsets. Hop on the ferry to experience both.

Culture in Belize

Belize’s tumultuous history is the basis for the numerous cultural influences that define the country today. Look for important cultural holidays and festivities throughout the year. Events like Carnaval, Costa Maya Festival, and Garifuna Settlement Day pay homage to key aspects of Belizean culture. Important cultural holidays of note include what most refer to as September Celebrations—the Battle of St. George’s Caye (or National Day) on September 10, and Independence Day on September 21.

The Cayes are hot spots for festivals and parties, including global holidays like New Year’s Eve, Easter, and Halloween. Many of Belize’s festivals are centered around important cultural holidays like Ambergris Caye’s Carnaval, akin to a Mardi Gras celebration. The September Celebrations recognize important historic battles and Belize’s independence. And Costa Maya Festival celebrates the region’s Maya roots. You won’t find big-name music artists holding concerts here, but that’s OK. Belize has a thriving local musical scene—musicians like Andy Palacio and the Garifuna Collective have played a historic role in Belizean culture. Culinary celebrations are also an important part of the scene, with everything from rum and chocolate events to countrywide lobster festivals.

Local travel tips for Belize

Belizeans are some of the friendliest and proudest people you will encounter—if someone is offering help or suggestions, they usually are doing so with the most genuine of intentions. In many cases, locals dine in the same restaurants tourists do. Absent is the stigma of “tourist traps” you find elsewhere in the world. Expect grocery prices to be higher on the Cayes than on the mainland, especially for Western products. Don’t look for McDonalds, Starbucks, or other chains—Belize doesn’t have them. Most businesses are family-owned, lacking a noticeable corporate influence.

Practical Information

The exchange rate is pretty much always 2 Belize dollars for 1 U.S. dollar. U.S. dollars are widely accepted, but be advised that some businesses will refuse them if they are torn, wrinkled, or contain any writing. The recent rule has been implemented because local banks won’t accept tender of torn and marked bills.

English is the official language, but expect to hear a variety of languages as you travel the country—Spanish, Mayan, Kriol, and Garifuna among them.

U.S. citizens traveling to Belize will need a passport that is valid beyond the length of their stay; tourist visas are only required for stays longer than 30 days.

Belize uses 110 voltage and the same electrical plugs as the U.S., so adapters and converters aren’t necessary.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Under 20 minutes by car from Québec City (or, if you are feeling ambitious, less than an hour by bike, with most of the ride on a well-maintained path), Chute-Montmorency (Montmorency Falls) is the area’s most impressive natural wonder. If you visit the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec before you go, the sight will look familiar: Montmorency has long been a popular subject for local painters. Think Niagara is impressive? The cascade here is a full 99 feet higher—272 feet to the Horseshoe Falls’ 173 feet. In winter, spray from the falls freezes into a hill at its base, known as the Sugarloaf, and snowshoes are available for rent if you want to explore the nearby trails. In the summer, there’s a zip line for those in search of an adrenaline bump. Year-round, a cable car carries passengers to the top of the falls, providing bird’s-eye views en route.
There is something fundamentally different in the air of this Eastern Townships winery—something I couldn’t quite grasp but that made me want to stay forever. The winery, which specializes in ice wines and ciders, was founded a few years ago by three young, passionate investors and lifelong friends, and it has since received immense praise, both from its clientele and the wine industry. For me, I think the setting is what sets it apart from other wineries. A charming bright-red barn overlooks acres of dense forest and rolling hills.
Overlooking Chesterman Beach, the Wickaninnish Inn, or “the Wick,” as locals call it, offers 75 cabinlike rooms with Adirondack-style furnishings. Amenities include a library stocked with board games and movies, a spa that offers West Coast–inspired treatments, and guided hikes to nearby tide pools every Saturday morning. Swing by the Henry Nolla Carving Shed on the beach, where local wood carvers⎯“Feather” George Yearsley, for one⎯craft wooden objects such as eagle feathers, dugout canoes, jewelry boxes, and First Nations masks. From $460. 500 Osprey Ln., (250) 725-3100. Image courtesy of Wickaninnish Inn
Owned by interior designer Elizabeth John, Covet offers a well-curated mix of housewares, clothing, and accessories. Check out the funky silver jewelry by local metalsmith Lisa Fletcher and the Ilse Jacobsen rubber boots (pictured), made in Denmark but perfect for waterlogged Tofino. 368 Main St., (250) 725-2860. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue.
Inside a Northwest-style longhouse, built by owner and First Nations tribe member Roy Henry Vickers to resemble the traditional dwellings once used by indigenous people, visitors can sift through Vickers’s limited-edition prints, carved cedar panels, and baskets with designs of eagles, ravens, orcas, and totem poles. Eagle Aerie Gallery also features the work of other local artists. 350 Campbell St., (250) 725-3235. Image: TSalon/Flickr.com
This zoo in incredible for a few reasons: obviously, primarily for the animals there. Being in Belize, there are jaguars, ocelots, scarlet macaws... everything you wish you could stumble upon when hiking in the rainforest (if only hiking boots were less noisy!). Most noteworthy perhaps are the scarlet macaws, which are endangered. If you like to research places before visiting, you MUST read, The Last Flight of the Scarlet Macaw by Bruce Barcott: it tells about the Scarlet Macaw, Belize itself, and Sharon Matola- the woman who started the zoo and fought to save the macaws a while ago. If you’re lucky, you might even be able to hold a boa constrictor (I did!) or meet Matola, who my friends ran into while touring the zoo.
In the Orange Walk district, in Northern Belize, lies one of the largest Maya ruins in the country: Lamanai. It is accessible by road but I arrived after a one-hour boat ride up the New River. The name “Lamanai” is roughly translated as “Submerged Crocodile.” Apparently, there was once a thriving population. The ruins may date back to 700 B.C. and estimates put the number of structures, which are part of the ruins, at around 700 buildings; however, less than 5% has actually been excavated. Thick jungle, filled with howler monkeys, birds and jaguars, conceal the remaining structures. The walk through the jungle from the landing dock is certainly evocative. Tall palm trees form a dense ceiling and thick underbrush conceals everything around the path, still littered with pottery shards and artifacts because excavation is still ongoing. The Mask Temple has the most well preserved details but the view from the top of N10-43 (or High Temple) is thrilling. I don’t recommend it for those who are afraid of heights because the climb down is steep and challenging. If you can make it, it’s worth every moment of struggle. I am no expert judge, but I would revisit Lamanai again in a heartbeat; of all the Maya historical places I have been, it was the most interesting and complete in terms of narrative and historical detail. A museum toward the entrance to the complex could easily take an entire afternoon to get through because of the volume of information it houses.
The Evergreen Brick Works, a reclaimed quarry in the lush Don Valley, is a showcase for sustainable and green living, as well as for urban design. A community has been established in this once-derelict industrial site and former landfill. Toronto’s largest farmers’ market sets up shop on Saturdays, and spotlights food from all over the province. On Sunday, the market shifts its attention to crafts. A full schedule of activities and diversions make this a perfect weekend escape: There’s a children’s garden (with weekly programming), bike trails and rentals, and a hike that leads to a rewarding view of the city’s skyline.
There’s a little slice of New Brunswick, Canada, off the coast of Maine, and it’s well worth a visit. Grand Manan Island is accessed by ferry from Black’s Harbour NB. The island is only 34km long and 18km wide, so it doesn’t take long to explore by car. Another popular option is to walk onto the ferry and rent bikes on the island. The main sights on Grand Manan are the beaches, rocky cliffs, and lighthouses. It’s a haven for artists, bird-watchers, and hikers. It’s also a great spot to enjoy fresh seafood. The journey to the island is one of the best parts as you often see whales, seals and other sea life from the ferry decks.
The Rosedeer Hotel is one of the first buildings you see in Wayne, sitting squat on a narrow piece of land between the railroad tracks and the hills behind. It looks like a movie set, and has been. Running Brave, Shanghai Noon, and In Cold Blood were shot here along with numerous commercials and music videos. A ten-gallon hat riddled with bullet holes wouldn’t look out of place. Don’t expect fancy cuisine—burgers are the norm, and if you want a steak, you’ll be delivered the meat and instructions on how to use the BBQ out back. But people don’t come for the food. Wayne is an authentic Western outpost, built before the road and at one time a thriving town, thanks to the nearby Rosedeer Coal Mine. People come in now for photo ops, for a chance to see one of the few remaining holdouts of the Wild West, and because the 100-year-old hotel and adjacent saloon are said to be haunted. But owner Fred Dayman, who was born and raised in the hotel, won’t talk about it. Book a room, if you dare, and find out for yourself.