Belize

Located on the East Coast of Central America, sharing a northern border with Mexico and otherwise surrounded by Guatemala, Belize is often called “Mother Nature’s Best-Kept Secret”—though it seems that the secret is definitely out. World-class diving, eco-adventures, boutique luxury resorts, and an evolving culinary scene are just a few of the reasons tourism is on the rise. Belize’s cultural heritage is rich, and the diverse influences are reflected in today’s food, music, dance, and folklore. Despite its seemingly small size, Belize offers ample adventure for adrenaline junkies, while miles of beaches and secluded rain forest retreats beckon travelers looking for a little R & R.

AFAR-Guide-Belize-TomPrior.jpg

Photo by Tom Prior

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Belize?

Belize is subject to the Atlantic hurricane season, so expect June through early November to be on the wetter side. Thankfully, Belize is spared from most major tropical storms. But if you are planning to tackle a lot of activities, low season is a gamble. When rains are heavy, roads and rivers on the mainland may be compromised. It’s not uncommon for Maya sites and caves to be closed due to flooding.

December through April is definitely the high season in Belize. The biggest influx of visitors is around the end of the year and Easter week. May is also a good time to visit, when things begin to mellow and businesses offer specials as they scale down for the impending slow season. Expect some restaurant closures and scaled-back staff at resorts during September and October, when many local businesses give their employees time off, take their own vacations, and gear up for the upcoming high season.

How to get around Belize

As of Dec. 14, 2020. Daily flights arrive into Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport (BZE) near Belize City. Large hubs like Atlanta, Houston, and Miami offer the most convenient routes on American, Delta, and United; while weekend flights go between Belize City and Newark, Chicago, and Denver. Many mainland resorts can arrange for airport shuttle service (for a fee) to pick up guests. Belize charges a departure tax, but flights booked through major U.S. carriers have the fees included. Currently, the fee for non-residents departing Belize is about US$35 per person. There are two airports in Belize City—International (BZE) and Municipal Belize City (TZA)—approximately a 20-minute drive apart. Tropic Air and Maya Island Air offer flights to the most-visited destinations, including the Cayes. There are rental car agencies at the airports, and scheduled bus service runs on the mainland between larger villages.

Food and drink to try in Belize

Food is not one of the main reasons travelers choose to visit Belize, but it should be! With so many cultural influences at play in the country’s cuisine, Belizean food is underrated. Look for Garifuna, Maya, Lebanese, Chinese, East Indian, and other international cuisines throughout Belize. Without a doubt, the most popular local dish is stewed chicken with rice and beans.

Fresh seafood is abundant throughout the country, especially in the Cayes, though lobster and conch fishing is tightly regulated, with fines for sale and consumption outside the allotted seasons. You’ll find Belizeans are passionate about their barbecue. It’s nearly impossible to walk down the beach on a Sunday without smelling a grill nearby. Snacks and street food in Belize are definitely worth seeking out. Not-to-miss breakfast specialties include fry jacks and johnnycakes. And no matter what you eat, a meal is not complete without locally produced Marie Sharp’s Hot Sauce on top!

When it comes to drinks, a cold Belikin always hits the spot, and for the occasional morning hangover—or goma, as most call it—try a Michelada. Tropical drinks are everywhere, with unique local spins on tried-and-true favorites. Belize produces several varieties of rum, liqueurs, and even wines made with cashews and blackberries.

Islands to visit in Belize

Belize’s top two tourism hot spots, Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, are its two most populous islands, some 21 miles off the coast of Belize City. In San Pedro, Ambergris Caye’s main town, tourists spend their days diving, snorkeling, and fishing: The coral reef’s white froth is visible less than a mile from shore. Nights are for partying and bar-hopping. The southern and northern ends of Ambergris are more suited to seclusion and romance. Sister island Caye Caulker is a smaller, laid-back Caribbean version of the two, with sand-only streets (no cars here), more local eats than fine dining, and a deeply rooted Creole culture. Caye Caulker’s offshore adventures and treasures include a marine reserve, mangroves for kayak exploration, and breathtaking sunsets. Hop on the ferry to experience both.

Culture in Belize

Belize’s tumultuous history is the basis for the numerous cultural influences that define the country today. Look for important cultural holidays and festivities throughout the year. Events like Carnaval, Costa Maya Festival, and Garifuna Settlement Day pay homage to key aspects of Belizean culture. Important cultural holidays of note include what most refer to as September Celebrations—the Battle of St. George’s Caye (or National Day) on September 10, and Independence Day on September 21.

The Cayes are hot spots for festivals and parties, including global holidays like New Year’s Eve, Easter, and Halloween. Many of Belize’s festivals are centered around important cultural holidays like Ambergris Caye’s Carnaval, akin to a Mardi Gras celebration. The September Celebrations recognize important historic battles and Belize’s independence. And Costa Maya Festival celebrates the region’s Maya roots. You won’t find big-name music artists holding concerts here, but that’s OK. Belize has a thriving local musical scene—musicians like Andy Palacio and the Garifuna Collective have played a historic role in Belizean culture. Culinary celebrations are also an important part of the scene, with everything from rum and chocolate events to countrywide lobster festivals.

Local travel tips for Belize

Belizeans are some of the friendliest and proudest people you will encounter—if someone is offering help or suggestions, they usually are doing so with the most genuine of intentions. In many cases, locals dine in the same restaurants tourists do. Absent is the stigma of “tourist traps” you find elsewhere in the world. Expect grocery prices to be higher on the Cayes than on the mainland, especially for Western products. Don’t look for McDonalds, Starbucks, or other chains—Belize doesn’t have them. Most businesses are family-owned, lacking a noticeable corporate influence.

Practical Information

The exchange rate is pretty much always 2 Belize dollars for 1 U.S. dollar. U.S. dollars are widely accepted, but be advised that some businesses will refuse them if they are torn, wrinkled, or contain any writing. The recent rule has been implemented because local banks won’t accept tender of torn and marked bills.

English is the official language, but expect to hear a variety of languages as you travel the country—Spanish, Mayan, Kriol, and Garifuna among them.

U.S. citizens traveling to Belize will need a passport that is valid beyond the length of their stay; tourist visas are only required for stays longer than 30 days.

Belize uses 110 voltage and the same electrical plugs as the U.S., so adapters and converters aren’t necessary.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Every book will tell you to have high tea at the Empress in Victoria, and you should. They welcomed our three-generation group, including 2 kids under 6, and had hot chocolate for those who didn’t want tea. They also had a full gluten-free option, which was a very welcome surprise. I recommend the Empress blend tea with milk and sugar, and the peppermint also got the stamp of approval from our group. The tri-level tray of treats is the fun part: chicken curry finger sandwiches and cake wrapped in marzipan were the faves. It’s actually fun and not stuffy at all, which was my fear.
Mountain Equestrian Trails (MET) Outfitter & Lodge exemplifies the best of family-run ecotourism. Anywhere with an address like “Mile 8” off a pot-holed dirt road in Belize’s jungle is guaranteed to be an off the beaten path experience. The car ride in is a bumpy ride but makes arriving a true reward. The small staff of horse-riding adventurers embraces you like family and personalizes your stay with their endless knowledge of the land, animals, history, surroundings and active excursions. Toucans pose in the tree tops, parrots dart through the lush surroundings and horses graze nearby, ready for guests to ride them to nearby swimming holes, waterfalls and caves. The rooms are cozy, kerosene-lit Spanish bungalows topped with palm-thatched roofs and the Cantina serves as the central hang-out spot where farm-fresh meals and drinks are served. The Cantina is also the only place on the property with electricity and Wi-Fi so you’re not completely off the grid, but with views like the one pictured, you could care less even if you were.
Halifax’s identity is tied to the sea, and its rich maritime history is the central theme of this eclectic museum. Popular exhibits include one dedicated to the role of Halifax after the sinking of the Titanic (the city’s ships helped with the recovery) and the devastating Halifax Explosion, a 1917 ship collision that killed 2,000. Don’t miss touring the CSS Acadia, a naval vessel once used for hydrographic missions.
If you’re in San Pedro on a Tuesday or Thursday night, head over to Wahoo’s Lounge on Front Street for the weekly Chicken Drop. It’s definitely one of the most unique experiences you’ll have on your Belize vacation. Place your bets, watch the lucky person who gently blows on the chicken’s butt and sets him loose on the bingo like board. As you can probably gather by now, expect the chicken to wander around until he finds some lucky person’s number to poop on. Join in the festivities by yelling for your number, as the pot can easily get up to several hundred dollars (Belize). However, before you are quick to run up and claim your winnings – guess who has to clean up the chicken poop?
Movie director Francis Ford Coppola had traveled the world, but when he visited Belize in the 1980s, in search of a “jungle paradise” like the one where he had filmed Apocalypse Now, he was taken by the untamed land and bought Blancaneaux, the first of two resort properties he would eventually own in Belize. (The other is Turtle Inn.) Initially, Blancaneaux was a family retreat, but by the early 1990s, Coppola decided to turn it into a small luxury resort. Today, guests with deep pockets enjoy visiting Blancaneaux for its sense of exclusivity; travelers have to really want to stay here. An hour’s drive down a bone-jarring road away from civilization, one doesn’t just happen upon the resort. Accommodations are gigantic villa- and cabana-style lodgings lavishly decorated with handmade furniture, textiles, and crafts. Hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, and swimming are a few of the activities for guests on-site at Blancaneaux.
Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market is crammed with 120 vendors, butcher counters, bakeries, ethnic eateries, and seafood shops. But there’s one reason why most people come here: the peameal bacon sandwich, which is dished up at the Carousel Bakery. It’s not really bacon—or at least not the bacon you usually eat—but rather tender, thicker strips of pork, cut from the loin and then rolled in peameal (like cornmeal but made from peas), and served on a kaiser roll with a swipe of mustard. It’s a porklicious treat!
The little town of Baie-St.-Paul has been a haven along the north shore of the St. Lawrence since the 1670’s, when the French began settling here. Today, just a couple of hours from Québec city by car, it’s an artist’s colony full of charming galleries and restaurants. I hadn’t been here in over a decade when I brought my wife here for her first visit. The dramatic Charlevoix region (the rolling landscape northeast of Québec city) was one of her favorite areas, and we spent an afternoon here, reveling in the cool green, soaking up the contrast from home in Arizona...
Hopkins Village is a coastal escape with a perfect balance of culture, local and international dining, and some of the best accommodation options in the country. Once a remote Garifuna fishing village, Hopkins has become a full-fledged tourist destination without losing its local flavor. You’ll find yourself immersed in the Garifuna way of life, laid-back during the day and alive at night. The village’s main stretch of beach is one of the safest in Belize, even if the sea isn’t that typical turquoise hue. Inland, explore a host of activities ranging from Garifuna drumming classes at Lebeha Drumming Center or cooking classes at Palmento Grove Cultural & Fishing Lodge to hiking at nearby Mayflower Bocawina National Park. Nights bring options for drinks and dining—try a Garifuna restaurant, but also treat yourself to alfresco gourmet meals at Chef Rob’s. Weekly drumming nights are popular on the beach, as is gazing at the stars from your hammock.
The massive ruins of Caracol were once a major Maya metropolis in prehispanic Belize, during the Classic Period. The majority of the site is yet to be reclaimed from the forest, but the structures that have been uncovered are truly impressive. The main structure is still the tallest building in all of Belize and places you “on top of the world.” The jungle surrounding the site is teaming with wildlife, and a pair of binoculars come in handy. The ruins are located south of San Ignacio along the rough Mountain Pine Ridge Road. There are several worthwhile stops on the way, such as Rio Frio Cave and Rio On Falls, but the best stop is a cool libation at the Blancaneaux Lodge Bar.
The Cayo District is home to many of Belize’s ancient Maya sites, including one of the largest, Xunantunich. Located atop a ridge near the Mopan River and the Guatemala border, Xunantunich’s “El Castillo,” the main pyramid, is certainly the most impressive. Visitors who brave the steep steps to the top are rewarded with unsurpassed views into Guatemala and neighboring areas of Belize. While the climb up can be pretty steep and rough, there are other routes to get down along the backside that make the descent a little easier. It took me multiple visits to finally gather the courage to climb to the top, but I’m grateful I did, as the views were absolutely worth it! Organized tours to Xunantunich often combine with other activities like zip-lining, cave tubing, or even trips to the Belize Zoo. Travelers who wish to explore all of Xunantunich’s six plazas, which contain more than 26 temples and palaces, should plan to book a private tour or visit on their own.