Australia

The land down under may seem like a world away, but it’s a dynamic destination that caters to music lovers and fashionistas, urban adventurers and discerning gastronomes, the nature-intrigued and seasoned outdoors explorers. Now reopen to international travelers, Australia beckons with all that it offers. You may come for the very great barrier reef in Queensland and discover scuba diving led by Indigenous guides; or pair Victoria’s ski scene with its wine scene. Maybe you should consider a longer trip...

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Australia?

It’s hard to find a wrong time to visit Australia. Winter is June to August, when most of Australia hits a low season. This is the time to ski in the Kosciusko National Park or on Victoria’s Mount Hotham. It’s also the best time to visit northern Australia.

Between May and September the Northern Territory, northwestern Australia, and Queensland offer ideal weather. In summer, these areas swelter, either too humid or too hot, inciting some travelers to make a U-turn to more friendly climes down south.

From September to May, southern Australia is at its peak. Every other traveler looking for antipodean escapades arrives at this time of year, but there’s plenty of land to go around. December to February have most Sydneysiders and Melbournians pumping up the air-conditioning, while braver tourists define new tan lines on Bondi and Manly beaches.

How to get around Australia

They don’t call Australia “the land down under” for nothing. It’s a long flight from just about anywhere. And once you’re here, the various must-see destinations are spread over vast distances, so some logistical planning is necessary.

As of 2022, there were nine nonstop inbound flights to Australia from the U.S., stopping in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, or Perth. Interstate flights are easily accomplished via Qantas, Jetstar, Tiger, and Virgin.

To see the whole continent in under a month is a serious undertaking and will involve trains, planes, a few automobiles, boats, and a ferry or two.

A less daunting project would be to take on the East Coast in one trip, spending time in Sydney and Melbourne, exploring Adelaide and the Great Ocean road by car, taking a car-ferry or flight to Tasmania, popping in to Canberra, and jetting up to Queensland for the tropical experience.

Western Australia is simple to navigate by train, car, or tour bus, but don’t even think about going into the outback alone in summer.

The interior outback, known as the Red Center, is best reached by organized tour, available as luxury excursions, adventure operations, backpacker units, and every other imaginable collective. You can take four-wheel-drives off road, but carry water (five liters per day, per person), bring a high-frequency radio transceiver, and be sure to respect Aboriginal sacred land, national park rules, and animal crossings at dusk and dawn. (Neither party comes out well from an on-road clash with a large kangaroo.)

Food and drink to try in Australia

Foreigners’ overused jokey adage to “throw another shrimp on the barbie” no longer sticks. First of all, Australians call them prawns. Second, Australian gastronomy has surpassed the humble barbecue. It remains a happy summer stalwart in backyards across the country, but what happens elsewhere is more interesting. The country’s food scene has been largely overlooked abroad, and for the most part the global food media have shunned Australia’s culinary experience, focusing instead on its cuddly native critters and extraordinary landscapes. It’s also true that the nation’s food culture is really coming of age. What was a less than inspiring restaurant scene just a couple of decades ago has blossomed in recent years. Restaurants such as Attica, Quay, Sepia, and Flower Drum can stand up to the world’s best.

Culture in Australia

The new year kicks off the traditional cycle, and less than a month later the country celebrates Australia Day. Officially it marks the anniversary of the arrival of the British in Sydney on January 26, 1788. Mindful of the original inhabitants of the land, the day is now simply a celebration of being Australian. Folks light the barbecue, play cricket on the beach, and take to the outdoors. Every happy Australian stereotype comes out on one glorious public holiday. Parties don’t come much more mind-blowing than the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras Parade, the biggest of its kind in the world. Go along to cheer on the sequined, feathered, Lycra-wearing ensemble as they celebrate equal rights.

Hippies, rockers, folk fans, indie types, country listeners, jazz groovers: There are festivals across Australia for every sort of music lover. Travel north to Byron Bay to revel in the stunning bushland setting of Splendor in the Grass, and go to Victoria for the Falls Festival, relocated from Tasmania following a two-year pandemic hiatus. See where Keith Urban started his career at the Tamworth Country Music Festival. There’s Tropfest for film lovers, and the Sydney, Melbourne, or Byron Bay Writers Festivals for the more literary.

Local travel tips for Australia

Australia is a wide, stunning, varied land. To travel around it well requires great research and good advice. Locals love nothing better than spouting off about their favorite places, the best eats, the must-nots and must-dos. “Shout” (buy) a local a beer and you’ll get better insider advice than you could from a guidebook, and probably a really good laugh.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
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AFAR’s picks for the 31 best new hotels in the world.
After having been decimated by wildfires in 2020, Southern Ocean Lodge in Australia is back—and it’s better than ever. Here’s a firsthand look at the reimagined retreat.
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Hotels can introduce their guests to the creativity that surrounds them—and reveal canvases visitors may not otherwise see.
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
There’s no better place in Hobart for a sundowner than this bar and restaurant, situated on the pier where the ferry to the Museum of Old and New Art departs. Its menu is filled with Asian-inflected dishes such as Korean fried chicken and pork belly bao.
On 10 acres not far from Freycinet National Park, is Kate’s Berry Farm. From their shop, travelers can pick up homemade treats for every variety of sweet tooth, from freshly picked organic raspberries and chocolate-dipped walnuts. Or, linger a little while in their café, Just Desserts Café, over sweet specialities like lavender ice cream and French crepes while admiring the view of nearby Great Oyster Bay.

Note that the shop and cafe are currently not open every day (they are open Saturday - Tuesday each week). Be sure to check their website for the latest opening hours and visitation details before making the trip out to see Kate and her beautiful farm.
A tiny northern Hobart restaurant with brick walls and no more than 20 seats joined the city’s dining scene in 2017, quickly winning over locals with its reinvented riffs on Italian classics. Chef Matt Breen’s Aussie-Italian ethos was partially honed at Smolt, where he worked in Salamanca Square for several years. At Templo, Breen’s blackboard menu features around 10 dishes; two of them are often broccolini-chili gnocchetti and beef carpaccio with radicchio and anchovy cream. If you can’t decide, order the chef’s menu for $60 and try every plate except dessert. It’s all meant to be shared, just like a nice bottle of red (there’s a solid list of Australian and Italian vintages, or you can BYO for a $15 corkage fee).
A short walk from the city center, Koombana Bay is famously frequented by cavorting bottlenose dolphins; in its calm waters, you may even find yourself swimming right next to one of these remarkable creatures. The wide, white-sand beach is easily strollable, with views of boats from the nearby Koombana Bay Sailing Club. Beach volleyball is a big sport here, and the restaurants and cafés of the nearby Marlston Waterfront are popular with both locals and visitors.

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Here’s what you need to know before you order a cup of joe in Land Down Under.
In the Land Down Under, there’s an oceanside pool where women—and octopods—swim free.
Western Australia is embracing this unique experience.
Specializing in fine art, this bright, beautiful gallery shows works that range from Shirley Marais’s playful ceramics to the misty, impressionistic beach paintings of David Chen. Standouts include the exuberant mixed-media pieces of Australian artist Anthony Breslin. He often mounts objects like darts, pencil sharpeners and toothpaste tubes onto his cartoony canvases, which are a hit with kids and collectors alike.

The city is getting Australia’s first capsule hotel.