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Nearly 1,000 years after the once-powerful central Mexican city of Cacaxtla was abandoned, would-be looters of the hilltop palace ruins came across fantastically well-preserved and still colorful murals painted in a somewhat puzzling Mayan style. Excavation continues today under an enormous protective shed roof. The Mural del Templo Rojo, pictured, adjoins a stairway leading to the Governor’s Room. The huge nearby Mural de la Batalla, dating from 700 CE or earlier, is a grisly blood-and-guts depiction of a fierce battle between “jaguar” and “bird” warriors. The relatively un-touristed site is a short drive from Tlaxcala, slighting longer from Puebla. You come away from a slow stroll through the labyrinthine ruins with the feeling that centuries of mysterious history have seeped into your heart and bones.

Visiting the 17th-century Büyük Valide Han in Eminönü is my all-time favorite experience in Istanbul. It’s an Ottoman inn that accommodated traveling merchants over 350 years ago and also stored the Oriental and European wares from the wooden ships moored in the Golden Horn. The han is hidden away in the backstreets of the Spice Bazaar, though got some big-time exposure when featured in a montage in the 007 movie Skyfall. Artisans still make and repair some of Turkey’s well-known handicrafts in the timeworn workshops upstairs, but my favorite feature is the view from the roof. To experience this you need to locate the building off Çakmakçılar Yokuşu. Then go up the steep stairs and say, “Merhaba” (hello) to the craftspeople. If you’re lucky, the caretaker will agree to unlock a door that hides a secret staircase to the roof. Do give him a tip for his kindness and time because the view of the Bosporus, dividing Europe and Asia, is spectacular. A little word of warning: The roof is flat (with some domes), and there are no safety rails—so watch your step. Please respect the history of the building too and collect only memories and leave only your fondness for Istanbul to waft away in the Bosporus breeze.

Sunday is the day to go when food vendors from nearby sell their eats in one place. Maboneng is the arts district of Joburg. Arts on Main hosts several galleries, shops and vendors to enjoy. Many of the galleries feature young and emerging artists of Joburg who are very talented. The picture shown features some of these artists’ works. Jozi’s art scene is rapidly growing and on the same level as New York and other big art cities in the world. We stayed at the 12 Decades Hotel for a few nights and explored Soweto (for history) and Parkhurst for drinks/eats. I also heard from a local that Rosebank has a great market for crafts.

Once the general summer tourist season finishes, a different and more sombre sort of tourism begins in Belgium. Autumn is a time of remembrance and there is no more poignant place to remember the Great War than the Flemish city of Ypres. Ypres (or Ieper, in Dutch) is home to the Menin Gate. The enormous marble walls of this monument contain the names of 54,896 Commonwealth soldiers who have no known grave. Every evening at 8pm, buglers close the road leading to the gate and perform the Last Post. Each year, on Remembrance Day (November 11), thousands of poppy petals are dropped through the ceiling of the Menin Gate and flutter to the ground below. Also well worth visiting is the In Flanders Fields Museum, which tells the story of the soldiers and local residents who lived during the war, through interactive displays. Mixed in with the photographs, the history, the artefacts, and displays, there are quotes from soldiers, wives and parents, politicians, and writers. Several short films also illustrate the impact of the war on the area, the people, and the soldiers. Ypres is an easy day-trip from Brussels, by car or train, and is an un-missable destination, particularly during the autumn, Remembrance Day season. For More Information: http://cheeseweb.eu/2011/06/ypres-world-war-museums/

In 1911, American star jockey Tod Sloan took a bar in Manhattan, dismantled it, and shipped it to Paris. At the time, American tourists and members of the artistic and literary communities were beginning to visit the City of Light in ever-increasing numbers, and Sloan wanted to capitalize on his fame and make the place a spot where expats would feel at home. Over the years, Harry’s New York Bar has been frequented by a number of famous Americans and international celebrities, including Sinclair Lewis, Ernest Hemingway, Coco Chanel, Jack Dempsey, Rita Hayworth, Humphrey Bogart and the Duke of Windsor. Whether or not you have star status, you can still settle in on a stool with a drink and soak in the history.

Union Station is as stunning as it is rich in history, and continues to be a vital hub for L.A. rail, metro, and bus transport. On the outside, the building resembles an art deco riff on the old California missions; inside, the inlaid travertine and terra-cotta floors show the sort of detail work so rare in modern depots. Local tip: Settle into one of the giant leather chairs in the cavernous waiting room and immerse yourself in the city’s seedy side with Chandler’s noir classic, The Big Sleep. (Without a ticket you can’t enter the waiting room, but you can at least enjoy the Navajo patterning on the station floors.)

Why we love it: Local history and culture abound at this Atlanta newcomer

The Highlights:
-15 bunk rooms for fun and practical lodging
-Proximity to Atlanta’s vibrant Poncey-Highland neighborhood
-Welcome beers upon arrival

The Review:
Originally operating as a motor hotel in the 1920s, this Poncey-Highland property reopened in 2018 under the ownership of Oliver Hospitality, the same team behind hip locales like The Fairlane (Nashville) and Station House Inn (Lake Tahoe). New York-based studio Reunion Goods & Services spearheaded the design, imbuing the space with modern-day details while reviving its retro vibes with bespoke murals, custom wallpaper, and vintage-inspired artwork. Walls get a particularly feminine makeover within each of the 95 guest rooms, thanks to Atlanta artist Sharon Shapiro’s colorful depictions of women in everyday life. While the hotel caters to solo travelers and couples aplenty, it’s fun to bring a group: 15 bunk rooms welcome the cool kids here, and each of them sleeps up to four. Bring that crew downstairs for dinner at Tiny Lou’s, where executive chef Jeb Aldrich puts forth French-American fare like Tennessee rabbit cassoulet and black cocoa foie gras.

First domesticated on this tiny island in 1840, the aloe plant is so important to Aruba that its image is emblazoned on the nation’s crest. Crops once extended over nearly two-thirds of the island and, to this day, remain Aruba’s largest export, explaining why the plant is a frequent motif in local art and architecture. For more information, visit the Aruba Aloe Factory, where you take a guided tour and learn about the manufacturing process. Then, head to the museum to browse a small collection of ancient aloe planting tools as well as books on the plant and its history.

Mere steps from the South Rim in Grand Canyon Village, Bright Angel has history in spades. Conceived by architect Mary J. Colter (who designed several other structures in the park), the rustic lodge looks from the outside as it did when it opened in 1935, though the 37 rooms have been updated and—if not exactly luxurious—are cozy and clean, with shared bathrooms and standard hotel carpeting and comforters. The 50 one-bedroom log cabins have more modern amenities, such as Keurig coffeemakers and satellite TV, and a handful of them sit right on the rim. Don’t miss the fabulous floor-to-ceiling fireplace in the main lounge, where the canyon wall’s geological layers are re-created, more or less to scale, using the same rock, from the 2-billion-year-old Zoroaster granite at the bottom of the canyon to the 250-million-year-old Kaibab Limestone at the top. Just be sure to find a spot early: The building is usually packed with visitors gawking at the jaw-dropping views or gathering for popular mule rides and guided hiking tours down the Bright Angel Trail.

The Belmond Villa San Michele knows something about history. Michelangelo designed its facade, Franciscan monks tended its gardens, and Brigitte Bardot stayed here. But, like any elegant host, it’s not brash about its pedigree. Manicured Italian gardens—designed by 15th-century friars—beckon you for sun-soaked strolls. The colonnaded loggia is a pleasant place for a sunset aperitivo or candlelit dinner, especially with a view of Florence and the Arno Valley. The hotel’s expansive rooms are already decked out in the most tasteful, almost understated interpretation of Renaissance luxury—terra-cotta tile floors, heavy wood furnishings, just a dash of red velvet, and plenty of cream-colored walls—and then the panoramic views, original frescoes, and modern Carrara marble bathrooms steal the show. There’s a real-deal cooking school, where the chef actually works with each person in hands-on preparations—no demonstrations-only here. Other perks include the hillside pool, the concierge service that can get you into the Uffizi outside of operating hours, and, from the Loggia Restaurant, a view of the ancient Roman road that once connected Florence to Fiesole.

Perfect for exploring the trendy 10^th arrondissement, Le Citizen Hotel overlooks the Canal Saint-Martin, footsteps from where Amélie skipped stones in the French movie of the same name. The location is convenient for walking or using public transportation to get to famous sites, but why leave this gentrifying neighborhood? The restaurants and shops have become a boho magnet, and the monuments, such as Henry IV’s early 17th-century Hospital St Louis (built to treat victims of the plague), offer much beauty and history without the tourists.

Narrow guestrooms have multiple windows and are laid out to take advantage of canal views. The design sensibility is Nordic, with bright colors, pale woods, and modular furniture. If you didn’t bring an iPad, the hotel offers loaners.

This property will reopen from renovations in spring 2019.

The brainchild of miner James Thorpe, who bought the property in 1918 and also gave the property its name, Bishop’s Lodge lays claim to being New Mexico’s very first resort. And its history dates back even further, to the 1850s, when Jean Baptiste Lamy, a French missionary priest, became the bishop of the desert diocese—and made his home on a hill with views of the Jemez Mountains.

The property has changed significantly since Lamy built his tiny Villa Pintoresca and adjoining chapel: It now spans 450 acres, has a spa and stables, tennis courts and an outdoor pool. And its newest owners, HRV Hotel Partners, who purchased the resort in August 2014, have plans for further expansion.

Still, despite upgrades, this is definitely a Western-style ranch where you can hike, ride, and shoot—and cowboy boots are de rigueur.

The salmon-colored stucco buildings comprising the Elliott House Inn have a long history that runs parallel with the city’s. Built in the aftermath of a citywide fire, the property’s main structure was then shaken in an 1886 earthquake (the characteristic Charleston earthquake bolts are visible on the building’s facade) and battered by 1989’s Hurricane Hugo. The bed-and-breakfast reopened in 2011 after two years of renovation and redecoration, reinventing itself yet again. The main building is a classic Charleston single house, built with its narrow end on the street and a long piazza running along its length.

The rooms, with their botanical prints, hardwood floors, and Oriental rugs, are traditional in a way that’s elegant and charming rather than fussy. Rooms are available both in the main house and the single-story building across. The quiet courtyard provides an oasis from the city streets with its wisteria-dotted pergola and light-draped palmetto trees.

With more than 125 years of history under its belt, the Brown Palace Hotel is one of Denver’s quirkiest landmarks. It was the country’s first fireproof lodging—built with terracotta floors, cast-iron railings, and onyx paneling but no wood—and though it has welcomed every president since Teddy Roosevelt, save Calvin Coolidge, it also hosts grand champion steer from the National Western Stock Show and Rodeo as they take a victory lap through the lobby each year.


Given its Italian Renaissance–style architecture and frontier legacy, English afternoon tea has become an unexpected institution in the hotel’s soaring nine-story atrium, with imported Devonshire cream, an exclusive blend of Assam-Ceylon tea, and live piano music. And instead of bottled Evian, contemporary-skewing guest rooms are stocked with natural artisan water from a well more than 700 feet underground.

Regular tours are offered to those who wish to uncover hidden details of the past—don’t miss the 26 stone-carved animal medallions that are perched outside seventh-floor windows.

Tucked into the ancient, magical maze that is Old Acre, the Efendi Hotel looks out onto the city walls and the sea just beyond. Combining two Ottoman palaces, this labor of love from celebrity chef Uri Jeremias—whose nearby restaurant, Uri Buri, is practically a foodie pilgrimage site—took restorers and artisans the better part of a decade to complete under the watch of the Antiquities Authority. The layer cake of history beneath the hotel includes a 12th-century Crusader cellar, where you should head for a wine tasting, and a 400-year-old hammam, where you should book a Turkish bath. Also not to be missed at the Efendi: the 19th-century fresco commemorating the debut of Istanbul’s Orient Express station, the gorgeously preserved ceilings, and the rooftop bar (be sure to go at sunset, when your drinks will be accompanied by a chorus of Muezzin calls). Though you’ll be tempted to linger over the sublime views—and fresh dates—in your room, get out during the day and explore the surrounding alleys, mosques, synagogues, markets, tunnels, fortress, citadel, and port.