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Night markets are a quintessential Taiwan experience. Young couples, families, retirees, and swarms of teenagers descend upon these markets to graze, gossip, flirt, play, and graze some more. Lately, the ones in Taipei have been over-run by camera-toting tourists. For a real local experience, head to the charming town of Tainan. Generally laid-back and filled with colonial relics left behind by the Dutch and Japanese, Tainan also has one of the liveliest--and most local--night markets I’ve been to in recent years. Plunge into the food stall section and try specialties like oyster omelets, hand-made mochi filled with peanut or black sesame, and sausages made with sticky rice. Then head over to the cacophonous games section and watch punters try their luck for an enormous stuffed animal. (The kiddie ping-pong version of pachinko is particularly amusing/perturbing.) Had enough? Push you way back through the crowds and if you’re in luck, you’ll find the vendor selling the most exquisite pink guava mixed with sour plum powder.

Built in 1525 as the family home of Doge Andrea Gritti, this antique-stocked palazzo has rooms with mosaic floors, hand-painted furniture, and panoramic views of the Grand Canal. Murano glass chandeliers and sconces light up the hotel that Ernest Hemingway called “the best hotel in a city of great hotels.”

Hotel Gritti Palace, Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, Venice, 39/041-794611. From $519. This story appeared in the July/August 2011 issue.

In the middle of a private courtyard in Hyderabad lies a workshop where several women sit at traditional looms. The women, who are all widows, weave intricate cotton-and-silk floral patterns by hand as part of the Suraiya weaving center. Suraiya Hassan Bose, 83, started the center out of her home a little over 27 years ago to revive local and regional weaves which have nearly died out since they’re very time consuming and still not very lucrative. At the center, visitors can watch the weaving process from spooling to the rythmic loom work that takes two people (one to guide the pattern from above and the other to pedal the loom and weave the threads.) It takes about a month to make a three-meter piece of fabric, but luckily the women at Suraiya earn a fixed wage regardless of whether the fabrics sell. I arrived during a tea break, in which I got to meet with these lovely ladies before they got back to work. 1-86, Darga Hussain Shah Wali, Raidurg, Behind Traffic Police Station, O.u.colony Road, Mehdipatnam To Gachibowli Road., Hyderabad

The Cayo District is home to many of Belize’s ancient Maya sites, including one of the largest, Xunantunich. Located atop a ridge near the Mopan River and the Guatemala border, Xunantunich’s “El Castillo,” the main pyramid, is certainly the most impressive. Visitors who brave the steep steps to the top are rewarded with unsurpassed views into Guatemala and neighboring areas of Belize. While the climb up can be pretty steep and rough, there are other routes to get down along the backside that make the descent a little easier. It took me multiple visits to finally gather the courage to climb to the top, but I’m grateful I did, as the views were absolutely worth it! Organized tours to Xunantunich often combine with other activities like zip-lining, cave tubing, or even trips to the Belize Zoo. Travelers who wish to explore all of Xunantunich’s six plazas, which contain more than 26 temples and palaces, should plan to book a private tour or visit on their own.

Melbourne’s market culture is obviously very much alive and, in the case of Queen Victoria Market, has been since the 1870s.


Food stalls to try: Börek; Bratwurst Shop & Co.; American Doughnut Kitchen; Gozleme Turkish Café; Le Croissant des Halles; Pizza by Nature; La Cantina; Sushi Kissaten; Pide Bread Bakery; Spanish Donut Van.

This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

Adorned with more than 20,000 blue handcrafted İznik tiles, stained-glass windows, and the golden brushstrokes of a 17th-century calligrapher, the Blue Mosque is the legacy of Sultan Ahmet I (1590–1617). The young sultan audaciously wished to outdo the builders of Hagia Sophia, commissioning six minarets to match the number at Mecca’s Sacred Mosque (which now has seven minarets as a result). Today, this magnificent mosque is a place of worship for thousands who visit from around the world.

Hands down the best place to stay in Mexico City’s Centro Histórico is the aptly named Downtown. Located inside a restored 17th-century casona (mansion), the hotel shares its property with a select group of Mexican businesses, including a chocolate boutique and a mezcal bar, as well as restaurants, cafes, and fashion and jewelry ateliers. Appropriately, rooms evoke a bygone era, with low lighting, brick ceilings, and tile floors somewhat reminiscent of a monastery. Amenities are spare but select (C.O. Bigelow toiletries, for starters), and service is unobtrusive but attentive. After a day spent exploring the city, head to the rooftop pool and bar, where you can sunbathe on a bright yellow chaise lounge or sit under an oversized umbrella while waiting for your cocktail to arrive.

Though Barcelona is hardly the epicenter of paella (that would be to the south, in Valencia), this hands-on culinary workshop/dining experience offers a fine introduction to what’s arguably Spain’s most famous dish. Set in an appealingly hip Raval-area space featuring soaring ceilings, exposed brick walls, and industrial lighting, the class starts with a welcome glass of cava along with a brief overview of paella from founder Alex Betolaz and chef Alex Villar. Don an apron at your cooking station, but don’t expect anything too labor-intensive; ingredients are, for the most part, already prepared, though you will do a bit of chopping, pouring, and stirring. (You can book your paella preferences ahead of time, and vegetarian options are available.) Then you’ll gather around a long wood table and sample various Catalan specialties along with your paella (and there’s usually plenty of sharing going on). Choose from three different paella-making experiences, starting at €50/per person for two courses and going up to €85 for multiple courses plus unlimited wine.

Founded in 1859, this 79-acre oasis is the nation’s oldest continuously operating botanical garden and a National Historic Landmark. Built by Henry Shaw, whose estate still sits on the grounds, the garden boasts one of the world’s largest collections of rare and endangered orchids, as well as more than 48,000 trees, including a few specimens that date back to the 19th century. Also on-site are Japanese, Chinese, English Woodland, and Ottoman gardens, plus a Victorian district with a labyrinthine maze. After touring the grounds, guests can get their hands dirty with cooking and gardening classes, while senior citizens and those with special needs can take part in a therapeutic horticultural program that provides stimulating nature-based activities.

This casual, open-air restaurant sits above an untouched stretch of Laguna Beach—and capitalizes on that beautifully. Floor-to-ceiling windows encircle the dining room so it appears to be floating above the ocean, all the better to watch the sunset while eating hand-shucked oysters and sipping Rum for Your Life cocktails. Chef Rainer Schwarz’s menu centers around seafood, prepared with a range of international influences—Spanish octopus is grilled with chickpea puree and zahtar, and lobster stars in a spaghetti carbonara. The spot draws a stylish crowd not just for dinner but also weekend brunch, with a must-try version of eggs Benedict (made with Berkshire ham and blood-orange hollandaise, plus steak or crab). While waiting for a table, sidle up to the Stateroom Bar, the former home library of Old Hollywood actor Slim Summerville, for artisan libations heavy on fine bourbon and whiskey. Pro tip: Locals know best, and they can’t get enough of the whole fried branzino, served with roasted shishitos and ponzu sauce.

Outdoor and culinary adventurers alike are drawn to this 11-acre property situated at the entrance of a stunning seven-mile fjord in Kachemak Bay. Guests can kayak through hidden coves to glimpse otters and porpoises, hike past alpine meadows, or deep-sea fish for salmon. But where Tutka Bay really separates itself from other Alaskan lodgings is in its culinary offerings. Visitors dig for steamer clams or stop by a local oyster farm for their evening’s feast, and continue the hands-on approach with lessons in the resort’s one-of-a-kind cooking school, housed in a repurposed crabbing boat. The focus ranges from Kachemak Bay cuisine to global influences, prepared with regional seafood and homegrown vegetables. After dinner, you’ll retire to one of six comfortably furnished oceanfront cabins, the most exclusive of which has three bedrooms and is surrounded by old-growth Sitka spruce trees.

You won’t find a better pool than the one that awaits at this 357-room family-friendly resort situated on the powdery sands of Palm Beach. With cascading waterfalls, a swim-up bar and grill, two outdoor Jacuzzis, and a two-story waterslide, the 8,000-square-foot stunner is every kid’s dream. If more adult-centric diversions are on your wish list, the concierge can arrange catamaran-sailing excursions, deep-sea fishing trips, and snorkeling and scuba-diving expeditions off nearby shores, as well as spa treatments that utilize local ingredients like red mud, seaweed, and aloe vera. The resort’s 10 dining options provide plenty of atmosphere for winding down after a jam-packed day: sample seafood specialties like scallops a la plancha in a setting inspired by the island’s plantation ruins, or watch the sun set over the water, rum punch in hand, from your perfect perch at the pier bar.

What do amenities mean in the age of the millennial traveler? At the stylish yet understated Alda Hotel, guests receive a complimentary Android phone that’s preloaded with apps to help you explore the city, from the hottest new restaurants to the best shops for Icelandic wool. If your beard needs a trim, a barbershop is connected to the hotel by way of the Barber Bar, so clients can settle into the chair, craft cocktail in-hand. Rooms are sleek and spare, in Nordic hues of gray and white with an occasional splash of color; all bathrooms have contemporary walk-in showers, while upgraded rooms also feature large soaking tubs. Rooms on the third floor enjoy views to the mountains and North Atlantic, while those on the fourth floor have access to a rooftop terrace with city, mountains, and ocean vistas. The Alda is just a few minutes’ walk to downtown (including the pickup spot for most tours) and to the seafront; at the end of the day, the outdoor hot tub is a perfect way to relax and inhale the clean Icelandic air.

After a day of exploring and shopping, it’s a pleasure to pass through the wooden doors of this Relais & Chateaux hotel (near the Koutoubia Mosque and souks) and into a world of fragrant orange trees, poolside loungers, and fresh mint tea served on shaded terraces. Housed in a 1930s-era riad with three swimming pools, Villa des Orangers features 27 elegant rooms and suites, complete with decor like hand-painted tiles, latticed woodwork, arched doorways, and carved mantles as well as modern conveniences like air-conditioning, Nespresso machines, and smart TVs. As at all Relais & Chateaux properties, food is a priority here. Days begin with a generous breakfast of local cheeses and homemade jams, and end with a refined Mediterranean-meets-Moroccan dinner, which can be enjoyed al fresco or by one of the indoor fireplaces. Guests can also look forward to a five-room spa, known for its traditional Moroccan hamman ritual perfumed with roses and orange blossoms.

All across Antigua you can find what may, at first glance, appear to be regular pineapples, but if you pass up on sampling the Antigua Black Pineapples, or just Antigua Blacks for short, you’d be missing what many call the sweetest pineapple on the planet. It’s said that Arawak Indians brought the first pineapples to Antigua’s shores more than 1,000 years ago. Upon cultivation in the island’s unique environment, these early pineapples soon adopted the distinctive flavor, appearance, and make-up of the Antigua Black we know today. The flavor being crisply sweet, not cloying, thanks in part to the Antigua Black’s low acidity. The appearance is so diminutive that you may think these pygmy pineapples aren’t ready for primetime compared to their oversized cousins from Hawaii, but one taste and you’ll change your tune. Check out Cades Bay Agricultural Station down south on Old Road to learn the history and explore the Antigua Black’s cultivation first hand.