White sails dot San Francisco Bay all year—thanks to its moderate climate. For those lucky enough to own or have access to a boat, it’s one of the most inviting and scenic urban playgrounds in the nation. I’m not a sailor and don’t know any sailors, but this past spring I went sailing one Saturday afternoon on the Matthew Turner, a tall ship that sails out of Sausalito. In addition to a history lesson, I gained a fresh perspective of the bay, after decades of living and working near it. The primary mission of the Matthew Turner is teaching sailing to young people, but it also offers passage to the general public.
Before I stepped on the ship’s deck, the closest I’d gotten to this form of slow travel was in books about seafaring explorations centuries earlier. And aside from short ferry rides to Angel and Alcatraz islands, my only previous sailing on SF Bay did not augur well. That was on the Oceanic Society’s 60-foot motorboat heading 25 nautical miles west to the Farallon Islands; half of the eight hours aboard were choppy. Although I didn’t get seasick, I also didn’t eat the apple I’d brought along. And several passengers looked as though death could not come soon enough.
In contrast, sailing via Call of the Sea on the larger MT was smooth—and among assorted small sailboats and gigantic cargo ships, it’s the classiest boat on the bay. With wind power, traveling at about five knots per hour, it’s genuine slow travel. That speed lets you take in the scenery, which includes dolphins, seals, birds, and wind surfers among the other vessels. It also lets you appreciate the vast size of the bay: Rocky Alcatraz, green Angel Island, and the Golden Gate Bridge were backdrops, not closeups. The winds determine the route. And the fresh air vanquished the theme from Gilligan’s Island (“a three-hour tour”) that had been stuck in my head for days.
Built in the 21st century, over seven years, the Matthew Turner is named for the designer and builder of the brigantine Galilee, which had an advanced design for its time, in the late 19th century. (The Galilee long held the passage record of 19 days from San Francisco to Tahiti.) The fir and oak 132-foot MT brigantine has 11 sails (including several that are square); the main mast rises 100 feet. Its few modern features include an electric hybrid motor used for leaving the harbor. Otherwise, it’s strictly wind powered. That means no smell and no noise—aside from the crew leader calling out instructions about modifying sails—on an eco-friendly trip.
The brigantine sails on select Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays throughout the year, ranging from 90 minutes to several hours. When I booked in May, I skipped the Mother’s Day special, figuring it would be crowded (it sold out) and got lucky: The amiable, enthusiastic young crew outnumbered the passengers. I chatted with nearly everyone aboard, including Alan Olson, the force behind the original project to build the ship. Highlights included watching the crew, which included a few volunteers and several women, set the sails. At the end of the too-short, two-hour trip, they scampered up the rigging to the top of the masts to roll up and tie the sails closed. So many ropes and sails: It’s not easy to travel this old-school way.
Among the passengers was a couple who had sailed on the ship before. I didn’t need to ask why.
Oftentimes, tall ships offer sailing classes.
Photos by Pat Tompkins
How to find your own tall ship adventure
Opportunities to participate in a day sail in the USA are more widely available than you might think. That’s partly because “tall ship” includes topsail and two- and three-masted schooners, barques, and other sailboats smaller and less grand than the Matthew Turner. Many tall ships with trips open to the public also operate as hands-on “classrooms” with programs to teach young people how to sail. For example, the Los Angeles Maritime Institute has tall ships for families or groups to charter; these private charters help support the educational programs.
You’ll find more possibilities through Tall Ships America, an organization based in Newport, Rhode Island, that promotes learning to sail and learning from sailing.
Where to sail on a tall ship in the United States
Seattle
- Book now: Seattle’s Tall Ship; Tall Ship Lady Washington
See the city from a tall ship on the gaff-rigged schooner Bay Lady, an 85-footer. A two-hour sail from Seattle’s Tall Ship starts at $45 for adults; $35 for kids 2–12; there are several sailings daily on Puget Sound from late April through the end of October.
Another nearby option: the Lady Washington brig, the official tall ship of the state of Washington, has day sails of two hours or more during July from Anacortes, Port Ludlow, Everett, and other cities. It’s a replica of the original Lady Washington, the first U.S. ship to sail the West Coast. For a two-hour sail: $70 for adults, $50 kids 4–12; four-hour voyages are also available.
Baltimore
- Book now: Pride of Baltimore II
Besides public two-hour sails, the Pride of Baltimore II, a topsail schooner, provides several guest crew opportunities for hands-on experience during the summer. While it visits New York in July, evening two-hour trips are available from Greenpoint on Long Island on the 19th and 20th (adults $55, $35 kids).
San Diego
- Book now: Tall Ship Adventure
Enjoy a tall ship trip on the Californian through the Maritime Museum of San Diego. In addition to four-hour sails on Sundays (through October) at $119 for adults, $69 for children 3–12, this summer, for the first time since 2020, the Maritime Museum offers two chances for families to spend the night aboard the 1863 Star of India. (The boat stays docked but staff will teach the night’s “crew” about life for sailors long ago.) Overnights are Friday July 26 and August 9, 2 p.m. to 9 a.m., with two meals, $125 per person.
Chicago
- Book now: Tall Ship Windy
Aboard the 148-foot schooner Windy, offerings include a daily Chicago Skyline tour from Lake Michigan (75 minutes; $49 adults, $39 kids) and an educational 90-minutes hands-on sail (Saturday–Monday, $35 adults, $25 kids). Summer features two-hour blues concert trips on Monday nights, $59 adults, $49 kids.
Gloucester, Massachusetts
- Book now: Schooner Adventure
During a 2.5-hour jaunt from the nation’s oldest fishing port, Gloucester Harbor, passengers can participate—helping raise the sails—or not, as they wish. You’ll be on the restored 1926 Adventure, a dory-fishing schooner and a National Historic Landmark. Those age 18 and under can enjoy the experience for free; tickets for adults are a modest $52. The Adventure offers public trips June through September on Sunday afternoons and Friday evenings.
