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What to Eat in Buenos Aires

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Pizza, Jewish food, seafood, bars hidden in flower shops—if you came to Buenos Aires expecting nothing but coffee houses and steak, you may be surprised by the inventive food scene that's erupted in this sophisticated city.
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Av. Pueyrredón 1508, C1118AAS CABA, Argentina
It would be easy to walk past this tiny, unassuming joint in the Recoleta neighborhood. But those in the know flock to La Cocina, which is still run by the Catamarca Province family that opened it 40 years ago (the owners’ grandson answers the...
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Gorriti 5132, C1414BJT CABA, Argentina
The idea behind Pain et Vin, opened in 2013 by a husband-and-wife duo, was to provide two things absent from the local gastronomic landscape: good wine and good bread. The vintage grape is the star of the show, in flights, tastings, glasses, or...
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José Antonio Cabrera 5099, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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Beef is everywhere in Buenos Aires, but there are a few parrillas in town that stand above the rest for quality. Within that category, La Cabrera offers a unique experience. Yes, the focus is on the meat, but the sides almost steal the...
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Thames 2296, C1425FIF CABA, Argentina
Las Pizarras Bistro calls its style of cooking “market cuisine” because the chef takes inspiration from local, artisanal ingredients he purchases daily. It means the menu, written out on the restaurant’s namesake chalkboards, varies depending on...
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Ángel Justiniano Carranza 2225, 1425 CABA, Argentina
If the name doesn’t tip you off, photos of Eva and Juan You-Know-Who, crammed into every available space, announce this restaurant’s campy (though not entirely tongue-in-cheek) political sympathies. No matter your ideological bent, you’ll enjoy PP...
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Estados Unidos 302, C1101AAH CABA, Argentina
Behind a massive bougainvillea vine that covers a century-old mansion on the corner of a quiet, cobbled street, San Telmo’s Café Rivas evinces an elegant, 1920s vibe—but the food is decidedly contemporary. The menu is short and...
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An observer from the sidewalk might puzzle as groups of people march into this pretty flower store—and don’t emerge shortly with bouquets. The customers are not here for the blossoms but for what lies below. A door at the rear of the...
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Chile 502, C1098AAL CABA, Argentina
Founded in 1982 by local poet Rubén Derlis, this café once served as a meeting place for writers, artists, and left-leaning thinkers anxious to speak freely after years of fear and oppression under Argentina’s late-’70s...
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ABB, Posadas 1086/88, C1011 Buenos Aires, AR-C, Argentina
For a chic Sunday repast, head to Elena at the opulent Four Seasons Hotel in Recoleta. Like any Buenos Aires event worth its salt, brunch here is late, 12:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. But let go of preconceived notions: You’ll find no pancakes or waffles,...
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Avenida Costanera R. Obligado, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Though Argentina has an extensive Atlantic coastline, seafood isn’t always a major part of the cuisine—you have to know where to go for top-quality fish and shellfish. El Muelle’s ultra-fresh fish and picturesque setting recommend it highly....
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Lafinur 3368, C1425FAJ CABA, Argentina
Many Buenos Aires visitors don’t realize the city is home to one of the world’s largest Jewish communities; most of the families arrived from Russia and Poland at the turn of the twentieth century. Proudly touting its immigrant cuisine, Mishiguene...
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Brandsen 699, C1161AAM CABA, Argentina
La Boca’s Don Carlos is heaven for the indecisive. Since there is no menu, the restaurant’s namesake owner sizes you up and intuits what you need. The idea is to feel like you’re at home, where the whims of whoever’s...
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454, AAN, Av. Caseros, C1152 CABA, Argentina
Beef, beef, and more beef is what you’re likely to eat for most of your Buenos Aires stay. Tired of dead-red? There’s good pork and chicken, too. But when you overdose on protein (it happens), hit beautiful Hierbabuena, where you’ll find a wide...
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Sarmiento 1334, C1001 CABA, Argentina
It was 1852 and Argentine society was so polarized, the country’s very existence was threatened. Thus, Club del Progreso was born as a gentlemen’s retreat whose noble goal was to unite the nation’s political factions through thoughtful discussion...
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Av. Cnel. Niceto Vega 4712, C1414BED CABA, Argentina
One of the best-kept secrets for lunch on the go in Palermo Soho is La Francisca Feria de Campo. This deli offers excellent, freshly prepared sandwiches in unique combinations such as smoked pork tenderloin, grilled eggplant, and cheese, or, say,...
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Bulnes 802, C1176ABP CABA, Argentina
Originally a puertas cerradas restaurant (that is, one operated from a private residence), Doña gained such instant word-of-mouth that it quickly moved from the chef’s apartment and opened as a full-blown, public corner bistro in Almagro. Billed...
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Armenia 1322, C1414DKD CABA, Argentina
In 1910, Argentina received a wave of Armenian immigrants fleeing genocide. Many of the new residents settled in Palermo Soho, and several good restaurants emerged. For something a little special on Friday and Saturday nights, the community hosts...
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Echeverría 1618, C1428DRB CABA, Argentina
Argentines probably love pizza almost as much as they love a parrilla, so it’s only natural someone would combine the two delicacies to create pies loaded with open-grilled ingredients. While Avenida Corrientes is lined with parlors serving...
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Arévalo 1502, C1414CQF CABA, Argentina
A favorite with local chefs, Paraje Arévalo may be modern Argentine cuisine at its best: unpretentious, authentic, delicate, and delicious. The restaurant’s decor is simple—mostly black and white—and plates evince a stripped-down presentation,...