Salt Lake City

Salt Lake City has the spirit of a metropolitan giant and the heart of a small town. Locals are friendly, engaging, and eager to show off their city—don’t be surprised if you’re invited out for coffee or an organic smoothie, and the burgeoning gastro scene is unrivaled in the American West. Local artists produce tremendous contemporary works, and many of the city’s events and attractions are family friendly. You’re never more than an hour away from the majestic Wasatch Mountains, where some of the country’s finest skiing, trekking, hiking, and climbing await.

Salt Lake City, Utah, USA downtown cityscape over Temple Square at dusk.

Photo By Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

Overview

Best of Winter

Greater Salt Lake is one of the finest winter destinations in all of America for good reason: Park City, main host site of the 2002 Winter Olympic Games and home to the Canyons, Deer Valley, and Park City Mountain resorts, is a short drive through stunning Parley’s Canyon; like nearby Cottonwood Canyon, it offers soft, powdery snow that is the envy of skiers everywhere. The nearby Wasatch and Oquirrh Mountains see tremendous snowfall and are beloved by ice-climbers, hikers, and everyone else who enjoys the white stuff. Salt Lake City also hosts a litany of winter concerts, carnivals, and festivals that draw families in droves, while the annual Sundance Film Festival takes over Park City every January.

Best of Summer

Salt Lake City doesn’t slow down when the snow melts. Long, dry summers and warm autumns characterize the region’s other alluring seasons, a time when the great outdoors becomes a hotbed of hiking, trekking, fishing, kayaking, swimming, and more. The city hosts a network of bike trails that stretch into the surrounding foothills and mountains; the adventurous can saddle up on horseback and ride into the high country; and the wild at heart can climb some of the toughest rock the state has to offer. Utah is home to 21 national parks and national monuments, while Salt Lake offers quick access to nearly 40 state parks and major natural attractions.

Food and drink to try in Salt Lake City

If all you know of Utah’s culinary legacy is fry sauce (a mix of mayonnaise and ketchup cast in a lurid shade of pink), then you’re in for a surprise. Salt Lake City’s culinary scene is tremendously eclectic, notable for influences from East Africa to Western Asia, with strong ties to the organic, whole food movement. The ever-evolving Pago is home to the renowned sommelier Evan Lewandowski, who is always ready to help you pair your way through a great meal. Local favorite The Copper Onion modernizes classic comfort foods like meatloaf and, for brunch, biscuits and gravy.

Culture in Salt Lake City

When your laid-back mountain town is frequently compared to higher-profile cities like Austin and Seattle, someone has to be doing something right. Contrary to popular belief, SLC’s cultural scene is not all Mormon, all the time; less than half of the city’s residents are members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, though any visit to town should include Temple Square—home to LDS Church headquarters and site of museums, historic buildings, and the Mormon Tabernacle Choir building. Spend an afternoon sipping coffee and shopping in the historic Sugar House neighborhood, tour the Utah Museum of Contemporary Art, then explore the boutiques and restaurants at quirky Trolley Square or pack a picnic for popular Liberty Park.

Practical Information

On a good year, ski season starts in late November, and can last until late May. Precipitation is high, the powder plentiful, and the scenery spectacular. Winter is the busiest time in SLC, especially when the Sundance Film Festival kicks off in January. Visiting during the fall means fewer crowds, beautiful fall colors, mild temperatures, and cheaper accommodations. Summers are hot, dry, and exciting; festivals, concerts, and activities abound. Downtown SLC is walkable, but you’ll need a car to get off the beaten track or into the mountains.

Guide Editor

Flash Parker is a writer, photographer, and photojournalist originally from Toronto, Canada. His work has been published by AFAR, GQ Magazine, Conde Nast Traveler, Lonely Planet, USA Today, Voyeur Magazine, Reader’s Digest, Get Lost Magazine, Asian Geographic, Escape Magazine and more; additionally, Flash was nominated for a PATA Gold Award in destination journalism.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
With world-famous runs, top-notch facilities, and sustainability efforts that make a difference, these are the ski destinations to put on your list this season.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Spanning three city blocks in downtown Salt Lake City, the $1.5 billion commercial area opened in 2012 and blends high-end shopping with business offices, residential units, and tree-lined walkways centered on a simulated creek complete with fountains. The open-air architecture fills the walkways with natural light during the day and is well illuminated at night. A 15,000-square-foot retractable roof provides part of the area with some protection from precipitation. The mall includes more than 500,000 square feet of retail space anchored by a Nordstrom and Macy’s, and surrounded by more than 100 specialty shops.
Chef and owner Charlie Perry spent many hours by his great-grandmother’s side as she shared her love of cooking with him. Her name was Eva Coombs, and Perry opened this boulangerie in her honor. While there are a few gluten-free options on the menu, they’re limited to salads and the fruit-bowl sides. This is not a place that makes adjustments to its bread. The baker serves breakfast and lunch Monday through Saturday, and is open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sundays for brunch.
In a world where coffee is ubiquitous, it’s refreshing to find an establishment that cares equally about tea. Behind the bar at the Rose Estb is a shelf of jars hosting three varieties of each kind of tea: black, green, white, herbal, rooibos, oolong, and a category for an assortment of others, maté among them. This does not, however, compromise an attention to good coffee (the Rose sources it from San Francisco’s Four Barrel Coffee), which is still what most people come for. Open for brunch and lunch, the simple café menu includes frittatas, soups, salads, and sandwiches. The Rose is located on the southwest edge of downtown in a brick building that was remodeled by the owner, Erica O’Brien, and her father, and is deliberately Wi-Fi free.
The beauty of running a seafood restaurant that’s not located near the sea is that there’s no regional bias—and Current takes full advantage of this. Chef Alan Brines is able to draw inspiration from seafood meccas such as San Francisco, Boston, New Orleans, Seattle, and others. Located just east of downtown, the simple single-story brick building has been refurbished with a modern feel and can be rented out for private events. Current also hosts special events from time to time, including wine pairings from notable American winemakers.
Feldman’s—modeled on the classic Jewish deli one would expect to find in New York City—has landed and is thriving on the east side of Salt Lake City. The deli’s hot half-pound sandwiches include multiple variations on the Reuben (sauerkraut or slaw, pastrami or turkey, corned beef and pastrami, etc.) as well as items like beef tongue, which are hard to find in Utah. At breakfast, order a plate of eggs and salami, try a bagel with a schmear or one of the sandwiches for lunch, and go for a bowl of matzo ball soup with some pierogis for dinner. If you know New York delis, the available-all-day dessert selection will make you happy: rugelach (rolled pastry filled with cinnamon and nuts) or blintzes with fruit compote, or maybe a nice slice of Black Forest cake? Feldman’s also regularly offers live entertainment in the evenings.
Thanks to loosened liquor laws, Utah’s distilling scene is flourishing—the Sugar House Distillery is the third small-batch distillery to open in the state in the last year. On an informal tour you can buy bottles of owner James Fowler’s vodka and malt whiskey.
The Utah Brewers cooperative, a partnership between Wasatch Brewery and squatters craft beers, has an eye for where people drink. The latest proof: Wasatch Brew Pub, which serves playful beers (Polygamy Porter, anyone?) in a spot just off the new Sugar House plaza.
At Forage, a two-plus-hour tasting menu is built around trout roe, wild mountain grass, Siberian elm seed pods, and other ingredients foraged within a 500-mile radius. $87, plus $45 for wine pairings. HOW TO SCORE A TABLE: The wait for reservations is around two months. Call on a weeknight and there’s a good chance you can fill a cancellation. INSIDER TIP: This summer, cofounder Viet Pham will open a more casual restaurant called Ember and Ash that he says will “use lots of fire and a very technical, refined cooking style.” Book now. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.
Situated on 10 acres in the heart of downtown, this 24-story hotel lives up to its name with 775 elegant guest rooms, appointed with handcrafted cherrywood Richelieu furnishings, floor-to-ceiling windows, Italian marble bathrooms, and spacious balconies. Public outdoor spaces include an immaculately manicured courtyard garden with a central fountain, a pretty-as-can-be terrace café serving house-made breads, and an outsize pool lined with loungers, all against a backdrop of classic white granite. To top it off, the hotel also features a colorful toy store with costumes galore, a jewel box of a sweets shop with macarons and other divine confections, and a men’s haberdashery. The lobby lounge hosts a live jazz band on weekend nights, and the staff tends to a crackling open fire during cool weather.
Dining in Salt Lake City means lots of international cuisines (thank you, Mormon missionaries, for introducing the foods of the world to Utah!), and you’ll also find all the favorites of the skiing and hiking crowds: strong coffee, great pizza and pasta, fresh sushi, and great drinks.