Istanbul

For centuries Istanbul has captivated visitors and witnessed the rise and fall of empires that fought to seize its beauty. A sprawling metropolis, Istanbul is a mosaic of sights, where European panache greets oriental mystique, where ancient treasures sit alongside modern designs, and where traditions thrive in a contemporary world. The magnificent 6th-century Hagia Sophia and the mesmeric Grand Bazaar will draw you in, but it’s the city’s cosmopolitan vibe that brings comfort to modern-day sojourners.

shop with stacks and stacks of colorful Turkish treats and shopkeeper in the background

Michael Parulava/Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Istanbul?

Tourism in Istanbul booms during the summer months of August and September, as do the room rates, humidity, and lines to enter major tourist attractions. For a more comfortable vacation, visit in spring or autumn when temperatures peak around 70°F and humidity is mild. Mid-April is by far the prettiest time of year, when over 14 million tulips bring color and life to the city as part of the Istanbul Tulip Festival.

How to get around Istanbul

Istanbul’s main international airport, Istanbul Airport (IST), located on the European shores. Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW), on the Asian side, also caters to a range of commercial airlines. International buses from Greece and Bulgaria, the Bosporus Express train between Bucharest and Istanbul, and the daily flotilla of luxury cruise liners also bring travelers to the shores of Istanbul.

Pack a pair of comfy walking shoes. Your two feet paired with Istanbul’s public transportation network is the easiest and cheapest way to get around. Most Istanbulites don’t own a vehicle because, at 3TL (US$1.50) per person per trip, the Metro (trains), trams, ferries, and buses are a faster, more affordable way to get through Istanbul traffic. Purchase an Istanbulkart for discounts on public transit, or revel in the pace of life in old Istanbul where most attractions are within easy walking distance. Taxis are available, as are dolmuşes (literally meaning “stuffed”), which are shared taxis traveling popular city routes.

Can’t miss things to do in Istanbul

No other city in the world spans two continents, so enjoy a progressive dinner over Europe and Asia. Start with fresh mezes (starters) in old Istanbul, then board the ferry in Karaköy for a 20-minute Bophorus cruise to Kadiköy in Asia. Enjoy your main meal near the street markets, and return to Europe to savor desserts in Beyoğlu.

Food and drink to try in Istanbul

Turkey’s mild climate, fertile lands, and proximity to fish from the Aegean, Black, and Mediterranean seas are peppered with the influences of 81 provinces and the speciality dishes of over 20 ethnic groups. A dash of flavor from eight neighboring countries is the legacy of the old Silk Road. Turkey once nourished the capital cities of the Latin, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires. What you get today is an enchanting range of delicious cuisine. Turkey is one of the few countries in the world to produce enough food for its people and still have enough left over to export. So by all means go for seconds or thirds, and as we say in Turkey: Afiyet olsun (bon appetit)!

Culture in Istanbul

When in Turkey, every traveler should do what the locals do and practice keyif, the art of idle relaxation. You’ll see this everywhere—men and women relaxing and drinking endless supplies of Turkish çay (tea) served in tulip-shaped glasses. Turks know that good friends are made with keyif, so if you’re offered a çay, stay a while and delight in one of Turkey’s great cultural traditions.

Istanbul has a smorgasbord of festivals celebrating arts, culture, and cultivation. The International Istanbul Film Festival and Istanbul Tulip Festival are held in April, followed by the biennial Theater Festival from May to June. Music takes center stage from June to July with the International Istanbul Music Festival, Jazz Festival and Rock ‘n Coke. The Hidrellez Festival, held May 5 every year, welcomes spring to the northern hemisphere with a spontaneous party of Romany music and dancing in the backstreets of Sultanahmet.

Insider travel tips for Istanbul

While weather is often the most-discussed topic in many countries, in Istanbul it’s all about the traffic. “Çok trafik ya!” is heard often, meaning “Too much traffic!” Istanbulites accept that people run late to events, and they joke about the waylaid time phenomenon known as “Turkish time.” If you’re using the roads to get around, do plan ahead to avoid peak traffic (7am–9am and 4pm–7pm).

Local Resources

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Pick up any glass in Turkey and chances are there’s a letter P on the bottom of it, standing for Paşabahçe, Turkey’s top manufacturer of glassware and housewares. Blue-glass eye amulets (nazar in Turkish) that ward off the evil eye are sold everywhere in Turkey, but the items here are actually locally made. They range from simple, silver-dollar-size keychains to hefty, gilded wall hangings. Other souvenirs include the tulip-shaped glasses seen in every teahouse in town and ornate Ottoman-inspired vases that look like they could have been lifted from Topkapı Palace. Another contender for your collection: a piece of twisted blue-striped çeşm-i bülbül (nightingale’s eye) glass, a Venetian glassblowing technique made distinctively Turkish.
Nişantaşı is the posh “Upper East Side” of Istanbul, home to the priciest designer boutiques and old-fashioned couturiers, especially along Teşvikiye and Abdi İpekçi streets. Beymen department store was Turkey’s first luxury retailer and remains a one-stop shopping destination for international and Turkish designers; take a seat outside its sidewalk café to see the fashionable set preen. For a peek at the old-money Istanbul chronicled in Orhan Pamuk’s book The Museum of Innocence, find Hak Pasajı, a shopping arcade just a few steps from the City’s Nişantaşı shopping center. Along with jewelry stores, stationers, and shoemakers, you’ll find Orlando Carlo Calumeno’s shop, a veritable treasure trove of authentic Constantinople relics ranging from French postcards of the old Pera district to museum-quality Ottoman army items.
Gorgeous Iznik tiles cover the city of Istanbul, and cheap replicas have long been popular souvenirs. But a recent revival of the centuries-old, traditional techniques for creating these lovely ceramics is proof that, when it comes to Iznik tiles, beauty is more than glaze deep.
Turkey has a strong textile tradition: carpets, of course, but also tapestries, pillows, and clothing. Cocoon boutique has a beautiful collection of these goods, along with embroidered suzani fabrics from Uzbekistan and Central Asia, felted wool and silk hats, and colorful travertine tiles. Also look for oya, intricate flowers made with an ancient needle-lace technique. Some pieces are vintage and others are made new for the shop, but all are fit to be heirlooms. Their showroom near the Arasta Bazaar in Sultanahmet is also a good source for olive oil soaps and cotton peştamal (towels).
Coffee shop by day, cocktail bar by night, this cozy venue is fast becoming the hipsters’ haunt in urban-chic Cihangir. Serkan İpekli, a Turkish barista champion, and Yağmur Engin teamed up to brew, mix, and shake classic and innovative beverages all day with a vibe that’s laid-back, yet irresistible.
The master jeweler at Grand Bazaar Jewelers is a fourth-generation Turkish citizen of Armenian descent who designs and hand-crafts necklaces, pendants, rings, bracelets and more using gold, silver and precious gemstones, preserving the traditional Armenian art form of jewelry making. Custom orders and international shipping are available.
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Most travelers to Istanbul will make a bee line to photograph the blue hues of the hand-painted tiles that give the Blue Mosque its name. Though, for many locals one of the more intriguing mosques to visit is Fatih Mosque, located atop the highest hill of the city. Fatih Mosque is worth a visit for many reasons. Christendom’s Church of the Holy Apostles once stood here for 11 centuries during the reign of the Byzantines. Commissioned in the fourth century by Constantine the Great and reconstructed by Emperor Justinian 200 years later, the revered basilica housed the sarcophagi of the emperors and their consorts, alongside the relics of saints Andrew, Luke, Timothy, John Chrysostom and Gregory the Theologian. The Church of the Holy Apostles was second only in size and importance to Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya). Whilst the latter is now the top tourist attraction in the city, the Church of the Holy Apostles succumbed to invasions by the Crusaders and Ottomans. When Fatih Sultan Mehmet II (otherwise known as, Fatih the Conqueror) successfully invaded Constantinople in 1453 he ordered the demolition of the dilapidated church to make way for the first Imperial mosque to be built under Ottoman rule. The first Fatih Mosque was completed in 1463, however, an earthquake in 1766 saw the mosque virtually destroyed. For this reason today’s structure dates back to 1771 and features elements of the legendary Imperial Ottoman architectural style fused with elegant Baroque designs of the 18th century. One of the finest examples of the latter can be seen in Fatih the Conqueror’s türbe (tomb), located in the grounds of the mosque. Visits to the mosque are best combined with the neighborhood’s weekly Wednesday street market.
Writer Anna Pellicioli and her husband raise three children in a Foreign Service home. What helps her power through sticky situations on the road? A good sense of humor and faith in humanity.