Thailand

Most visitors kick off their Thailand adventure in the country’s exhilarating capital, Bangkok, before moving on. The north offers emerald forests, mist-shrouded mountains, and the famously laid-back Chiang Mai. The south contains some of the world’s best beaches and diving, including iconic islands Phuket and Koh Samui. There’s much more to the country than its biggest hitters, though—ask anyone who has trekked through jungle in Mae Hong Son or visited cultural sites in Isaan. Thailand has experienced some political strife in recent times, but continues to capture visitors’ hearts with its beautiful landscapes and friendly people.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Thailand?

There are three distinct seasons in Thailand: relatively cool from November to February, hot from March to June, and rainy from July to October. Generally speaking, it’s best to visit during the cool season. The hot season really is very hot, but this is also a popular time to visit because of Songkran (Thai New Year). Monsoon season is actually surprisingly pleasant, with heavy rains interspersed with long spells of sunshine.

How to get around Thailand

Bangkok is a hub for world travel with direct flights to Europe, the Middle East, Australia, and all the major cities in Asia as well as many secondary cities. There are no direct flights between the United States and Thailand, however: journeys usually involve a stop in another Asian city like Tokyo or Hong Kong. There are also international airports in Chiang Mai and Phuket. Once you’re in the country, it’s easy to get around Thailand. There is a top-class supply of internal flights, the public transport infrastructure is comprehensive, and you can always hire a car.

Food and drink to try in Thailand

Thai is one of the world’s most famous cuisines. From street-side feasts that come in at just a few dollars to full-on five-star blowouts, the dining options for local specialties are breathtaking. The flavors vary widely from region to region. Northern Thai food carries Burmese and Chinese influences. The northeastern Isaan cuisine shares much with Laos and Cambodia, while the spicy coconut milk–infused dishes of southern Thailand carry strong notes of Malay and even Indonesian cuisine. The best introduction to traditional Thai food is in Bangkok, where you can explore every nook and cranny of the country’s abundant larder. The Thai capital is also the best place to experience contemporary cuisine. Venues like Nahm, Bo:Lan, and Gaggan (this latter is molecular Indian) have featured in recent lists of the continent’s best restaurants, and culinary standards are lofty across the board.

Events

It’s worth making the effort to catch Loy Kratong, the November river festival in which Thai people ignite fireworks, release airborne lanterns, and float thousands of offerings to the river spirits on the country’s waterways. Thai New Year (Songkran) in April is a raucous celebration that sees Thais and visitors drench each other with water as the temperatures soar. To better understand the Isaan belief in ghosts and spirits, seek out Phi Ta Khon, a colorful merit-making festival that is held in the village of Dan Sai in Loei Province. It takes place over three days around the first weekend after the sixth full moon of the year. Also look out for the Surin Elephant Round Up, held in late November each year, during which participants prepare enormous buffet spreads for the local pachyderms.

Culture in Thailand

With sacred spiritual sites complemented by modern museums, hip galleries, and other cerebral attractions, Thailand is the perfect place for an injection of culture. Bangkok, especially, is awash with international-class museums and plenty of contemporary art. For the more traditional side of Thai culture, bask in the history and grandeur of the Grand Palace in Bangkok. The nation’s long and storied history of majestic Buddhist kingdoms can also be witnessed at sites like Sukhothai and Ayutthaya—both former capitals. Chiang Mai, the northern capital, has an incredible array of wats (Buddhist temples) as well as a youthful and happening art scene centered upon Niemenhaemin Road.

Local travel tips for Thailand

Thailand’s many contemporary clubs, bars, and nightspots belie the fact that most Thais prefer local sounds to foreign imports. Thai country music, which includes luk thung (rowdy and mostly instrumental) and mor lam (a slower, more vocals-orientated sound), is hugely popular around the nation. In Bangkok, venues like Isaan Tawandaeng and Isaan Tur Tur are packed with migrant workers whose level of boisterousness is commensurate with the flow of booze.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Bangkok is well known for being a party town, but not everyone is aware of how nuanced its nightlife scene actually is. The city’s naughty reputation is alive and well in notorious red-light districts such as Patpong, Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza, but there’s a whole lot of life beyond the go-go bars. Well-heeled Thais and expats alike flock to the Thong Lor area where high-concept bars such as the fairytale-themed Iron Fairies rub shoulders with state-of-the-art techno clubs such as Demo. For James Bond-meets-Shanghai bordello flamboyance, try Maggie Choos in Silom, one of the city’s new buzz bars. Another nightlife favorite is RCA, a long strip of nightspots, which encompasses everything from cavernous clubs to intimate, grungy venues such as Cosmic Café.
Thai cuisine, with its balance of three to four fundamental taste senses, may be complex but that doesn’t make it difficult to pick up the basics. Bangkok has a plethora of cooking schools, some of which are attached to renowned Thai restaurants such as Bo.lan and Blue Elephant. Blue Elephant is one of the most respected venues in the city and its tuition reflects its exalted status. Two courses are offered daily, with the morning session featuring a visit to a local market and the afternoon session including a detailed introduction to Thai ingredients. A homier option is Amita Thai Cooking Class. Classes are held in an antique canalside home and include an explanatory visit to the resident herb garden.
Bangkok, of course, is very much its own city. But New York districts, specifically Brooklyn, are exerting a strong influence in certain quarters. These Williamsburg stylings are, for the most part, mercifully unaffected with little of the self-consciousness often associated with hipster culture. One such vibrant enclave is located on Sukhumvit Soi 51 near the Thong Lor skytrain where ZudRangMa Records and WTF sit cheek by jowl up a small side alley. ZudRangMa specializes in retro Thai sounds and releases excellent compilations on its own imprint. Next door, WTF Gallery and Café has a winning combination of potent cocktails, eclectic sounds and occasional art happenings and events.
There is nowhere else in Bangkok quite like the Siam Hotel. For starters, it’s owned and run by a Thai rock star, Kamala Sukusol, and her son Krissada. The boutique property includes mid-century timber buildings built by the legendary silk baron Jim Thompson, as well as open and modern structures, with a focus on harmony and comfort, designed by one of Asia’s best-known architects, Bill Bensley. But beyond the glamorous background, it’s the design of the Siam that makes it stand out the most. There’s a 1920s jazz theme mixed in with some Asian colonial flair; the result—with lots of open spaces, natural light, antiques, potted plants, and a black-and-white palette—is simply beguiling. The views of the river here lack temples or interesting landmarks, but it’s a lazy spot to watch boats go by, which adds to the relaxing atmosphere. Service is personalized and extremely professional, as you’d expect from a property of this caliber. In all, this is the closest thing one can find to a resort in Bangkok, and it is one of the most stylish accommodation choices to boot.
Bangkok’s most iconic site is a massive palace complex that served as the royal residence until 1925. Of its many buildings, the one with the most architectural interest is Chakri Mahaprasat. It was designed in 1882 by British architects, in a style that could be described as traditional Thai meets Italian Renaissance. Nearby is the 1784 Wat Phra Kaeo, or Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist place of worship. Go inside to see the Emerald Buddha, carved not of emerald but of semiprecious green stone, robed in gold and just 66 centimeters (26 inches) high.

Two of the cooks who worked with me at Nahm in London opened a dinner-only spot named Bo.lan. Bo and Dylan prepare traditional but often hard-to-find dishes, such as stir-fried chicken thighs with bamboo shoots, and red curry of pork hock. —David Thompson
Krua Apsorn is an award-winning, royally patronized everyday Thai food restaurant. Expect a clientele made up of fussy families and big-haired, middle-aged ladies, and a cuisine revolving around full-flavoured, largely seafood-and vegetable-heavy central Thai dishes. This is one of the most famous restaurants in Thailand and is a must for every visitor to The Siam. At a minimum you must order: Green Curry With Fish Balls, Stir fried Crab Meat with Yellow Chili and String beans, Crabmeat omelet, fried giant river prawns, mushroom larb. I recommend taking the Siam boat (5 minutes) to the Wat Rachathiwat Pier and making the short walk through the beautiful old Bangkok neighborhood. After lunch head back down to the river and walk back to The Siam stopping at the 199 year old Chinese temple just before you walk under the bridge.
American entrepreneur Jim Thompson, who began his Thai silk business here in the 1940s, built himself a residence in 1959 by assembling six traditional teak houses brought from other parts of Thailand. Today, Thompson’s former abode is a museum that displays his extensive collection of rare Asian art and antiques. The gift shop sells high-end silk clothing (including darling children’s wear) as well as bags, scarves and home goods such as cushion covers, plus postcards and books.

In a city where gold-spired temples are much more ubiquitous than green space, Lumphini Park is a veritable oasis in the heart of Bangkok. Established by King Rama VI in the 1920s and completed after his death, the 142-acre chunk of tropical greenery is a treasured spot. One of the few parks of any size in central Bangkok, Lumphini is well used: In the morning, tai chi practicers arrive, while in the early evening, joggers monopolize the main path that runs around its perimeter. Even so, there’s ample room to get away from the crowds here. More than 30 species of birds flit among the park’s giant trees, and monitor lizards and turtles inhabit its waterways. Other attractions within the park include a public library, a youth sports center, and swan paddleboats in the man-made lake.
Here’s a novel concept; markets that pop up around the island in different locations each day of the week. I shot this while wandering the Monday Market near Saladan Village (the main settlement) on the northern tip of Koh Lanta. Despite the market’s proximity to the island’s main tourist hub, it was surprisingly void of foreign visitors. The Monday Market is run by locals and caters to local tastes - which makes it a fantastic place to explore with a camera. I don’t often make images of children (I scare them, I guess), but I couldn’t resist firing a few frames of this girl in the fruit isle. It’s a departure from the grittier market fare I often come home with - perhaps that’s why I’m so fond of such a simple picture. Insider tip: a smile takes you a long way in a Thai market - and often leads to more free samples than you find at Costco on a Saturday. Be polite, and try anything your gracious host offers you, including roasted beetles and/or funky durian fruit.