Puerto Rico

Close your eyes and imagine a tropical island where the sun paints a watercolor palette across the sky, and birds and frogs sing you to sleep. You wake to a turquoise-blue ocean at your feet. You sip water from a fresh coconut and snack on seafood-filled empanadillas. You’re envisioning the Caribbean island of Puerto Rico—the island of enchantment, with a rich cultural history and geography begging to be explored. The wonders of this island can only be described by the phrase, “the heart and soul of the Caribbean.”

Two buildings in Puerto Rico. On the left, a pink building with white tripm and on the right an art-deco style blue building with a person passing by on a bike.

Photos by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Puerto Rico?

The best time to visit Puerto Rico depends on your island agenda. The “tourist” season is fall/winter (end of October through April) when waves on the west coast beckon to surfers and the tropical rain forests come to life. The beaches will be more crowded, but all the shops, restaurants, bars, and hotels are in full swing. Everything the island has to offer is at your fingertips. Summer is also a great time if you would like to just relax without all the nightlife and day trips. If you want the beach to yourself—plus a few vacationing Puerto Ricans—then head down between May and August for seclusion, but be aware these are also the hottest months of the year.

How to get around Puerto Rico

You have two options for travel to the island—airplane or cruise ship. The cruise ships stop at San Juan, a must-see city destination (though to really experience the island, you must travel beyond the capital). SJU is the biggest and most modern airport in the Caribbean. From the East Coast of the U.S. mainland, try JetBlue, Spirit, or Southwest. From everywhere else, there is Delta, American, or United. A perk for U.S. citizens: This is a passport-free destination.

For daytime travel, public transit services exist within individual cities, but they are limited. Taxis are clean and reliable—look for white cabs with Taxi Turístico on the front doors. The shared cab (public) system goes around the island for a small fare, but it takes a long time due to the numerous stops along the way. Rideshares like Uber are available in various towns, especially those close to the metropolitan region.

Most travelers rent a car for the duration of their stay. The currency is U.S. dollars, and the road system resembles that of the mainland. There are two exceptions: Distances are measured in kilometers, while speed is measured in miles per hour. Additionally, gas is represented in liters, and prices are competitive with those on the mainland. One roadway custom worth mentioning is that police and ambulances drive with their lights flashing. Still, unless they also blast their sirens, there’s no need to pull over or move aside.

Can’t miss things to do in Puerto Rico

Visit the Cueva Ventana cave in Arecibo. A short trail takes you through two natural caves, climbing down under the roots of a tree and opening up to the mouth of another cave that expands to show you a picturesque view of the center of the island. It’s breathtaking.

Another must-see place is El Yunque National Forest, the only subtropical rain forest in the U.S. Forest Service. Become one with nature as you wander through the walking trails and explore the mesmerizing waterfalls, as well as the endemic flora and fauna.

You can’t leave the island without experiencing the enchantment of a bioluminescent bay. There are only five in the world, and Puerto Rico is home to three—including the brightest one: Mosquito Bay in Vieques. Kayak through the glow-in-the-dark, shimmery water for a magical, one-of-a-kind adventure.

Food and drink to try in Puerto Rico

Local cuisine is available on every corner, along every major road, and at all places in between. This is the best island for people who are always hungry—there is something to eat, everywhere! Puerto Rican cuisine is varied but full of staple, hearty dishes. The most famous one is mofongo, made of deep-fried mashed plantains and served with a side of seafood or meat. And of course, you can always accompany any dish with a side of abuelita’s-style rice and beans.

Pinchos and empanadillas are roadside favorites, and it’s easy to tell which spots the locals love because the lines will be long and the stands sell out early. It’s worth trying a few during your stay, as each place will have its spin on a classic dish. You can also find Thai, sushi, continental, Mexican, Indian, German, and Italian cuisine in various cities around the island.

Culture in Puerto Rico

The island was called “Borinquén” before the Spanish arrived; they changed the name to Puerto Rico. (The burial ground of the Spanish conquistador and first governor Juan Ponce de León is said to be in San Juan.) You might hear native-born Puerto Ricans refer to themselves as “Boricua,” derived from the original island name. The indigenous Taíno people were present when the Spanish came, and Africans were brought to the island by the conquistadores. The mix of these three cultures gave way to a new identity: Puerto Ricans. There are Puerto Ricans alive now who are distant relatives of the original islanders. You can still find well-preserved pictographs of Taíno artwork in caves and rocks and visit towns like Loíza, which preserve the African heritage today

Local festivals are worth attending to give you an authentic taste of Puerto Rican customs and lifestyle. If you’re interested in food, visit the National Plantain Festival in Corozal (October), Saborea Puerto Rico at Escambrón Beach (May), and the Coffee and Chocolate Expo in San Juan (September). For culture, try the Hatillo Masks Festival in Hatillo (December) or the Rincon International Film Festival, Puerto Rico’s largest film festival (April). And for the biggest street party of the year, come experience the Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián in San Juan, commonly referred to as “la SanSe, ” celebrating St. Sebastian, in January. To find more festivals, just ask the locals. Puerto Ricans always know where to find the party.

Local travel tips for Puerto Rico

While GPS systems work fine on the island, the perfect navigation set for any local is . . . the Puerto Rican GPS. Stop anywhere in town and ask any local for directions, but it’s best to speak in Spanish.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Kaplash is located on the curve of Road 115 as you head toward the town of Rincon. The little unassuming orange and blue building boasts a beautiful view of the ocean and—in the opinion of myself and others—the best empanadillas on the whole island. Kaplash was featured in an island-wide food photography book by a local writer who ventured to all the great known local spots. That’s how I decided to try them, and I wasn’t disappointed. They are now the only place I stop for empanadillas (turnovers) and the only place I take family and visiting friends. Try all of them—they specialize in seafood—but I can’t get enough of the pizza one.
Behind one of the most popular surf spots in Rincon is a breathtaking view of the northwest coast of PR. Domes Beach during fall/winter will be packed with surfers, but if you want to enjoy the location without being slapped by boards or crowds, then take the short dirt walk behind the “dome” (old nuclear center) and hike along the raised seawall for a gorgeous and unobstructed view of the rugged, lush, tropical cliffside and the waters below. You can take this trail all the way to Pools Beach (in Puntas, the upper part of Rincon) and watch more surfers pick off waves in another great surf spot. This photo was shot with my iPhone 4S, and edited as HDR.
One of the great things about the Caribbean is that its rich history was often written at beautiful, easily accessible locations. One of the best places to learn a bit of that history is pictured above. That’s the beach at Columbus Landing in my home island of St. Croix. It was here, in 1493, that Columbus sent ashore a small contingent of his men to scout for fresh water. What they found instead were a group of Indians who weren’t too keen on visitors. What’s the whole story of Columbus and his less than stellar (to say the least) track record throughout the region? That may take a bit more book learning, but feeling what these new visitors may have felt coming ashore in this corner of paradise starts on these sands.
Descended from horses brought over in the 16th century by Spanish conquistadors, hundreds of wild horses rule the little island of Vieques. The horses, an attraction in their own right, dot the landscape wherever you go. With every encounter, I couldn’t help but slow down and admire their beauty. They are naturally intelligent and curious, so don’t be surprised if they approach you or your vehicle looking for little treats. For a guaranteed encounter, look no further than Sun Bay—where I snapped this picture. Here, they graze, take frequent sand baths, and (if you’re lucky) cool their hooves in the blue waters of the Caribbean.
Need a break from the hot weather at the beach? Want to unwind and relax in the lap of luxury? Look no further than the beautiful cliff-side Royal Isabela resort. The fresh rum punch is delightful here. It’s one of my favorites on the island (each place has a distinct version). I didn’t ask for the recipe but I’d rather keep it a secret—to keep me coming back to this beautiful place. The resort has a breathtaking view, with private villas and a golf course. I come here to take in the beauty of the Caribbean away from all the crowds and parties. It’s serene and lush.
Rum is the Caribbean’s signature spirit, its production documented in the region since colonial times. Just as there are dozens of varieties of rum, Caribbean travelers can select from a wide variety of rum distillery tours. The one offered at Cruzan Rum Distillery highlights the rum-making prowess of the 19th-century Nelthropp family, considered Cruzan rum royalty by many. The Nelthropp family endeavored to craft a spirit incorporating the “warm, tropical breezes that circulate through the open-air warehouses of the distillery.” A sip after your tour will allow you to judge whether they managed to capture St. Croix in a bottle.
At Mosquito Bay Beach—also known as Starfish Beach—on Vieques Island in Puerto Rico, you’ll find tons of colorful starfish. While the beach itself is small, it’s still beautiful and perfect for a scenic walk. You won’t get bored searching for sea creatures in the water.
San Juan Cemetery lies on the coast adjacent to El Morro (San Juan’s beloved fort) and nestled in the district La Perla, a rougher part of town. Its statues and tombs make it as beautiful as a New Orleans cemetery. Exiting El Morro, head down the grassy field to your left to catch this flustering overhead view. On this day, a powerful storm was rolling in, casting everything in gray.
In 1862, the Panaderia La Patria (The Homeland Bakery) was established in the mountain town of Morovis. One of the oldest bakeries in the island, La Patria offers a variety of traditional Puerto Rican sweets like flan and quesitos (a pastry filled with cheese whipped with vanilla, eggs, and sugar). But we all know the bakery best for its “pan de la patita echa.” (“Echar la pata” is slang and can have various meanings, one of which is to start or throw yourself into something.) This is a kind of lard bread made only in Puerto Rico that looks like it has its legs crossed. Ask them to show your the century-old red oven in which they make their different breads and pastries.
A beautiful drive through the mountainous west coast past the bayside city of Mayaguez opens up to windy roads lined with banana trees. Your destination is the coffee town of Maricao—a small, unassuming city that plays host to festivals, coffee tours, and aquaculture. Also the home to the hidden gem of Salto Curet waterfall. To get down to your starting point, a car with 4x4 is preferred but not always necessary (Going during the rainy season? Drive a truck or SUV). You’ll park in a vacant lot at the bottom of a hill and follow the trail over a river and up the mountain. You’ll eventually reach an abandoned ranger station; at that point you’ll turn left and trek up river. Just a short distance later is the isolated waterfall. Take a swim in the cool water, or hunt down the even smaller trail off to the left that takes you up the rocks to the higher and more roaring waterfall above. This is my most loved waterfall site. It’s secluded and never sees many guests at one time. Bring your camera and a waterproof bag, as it’s likely you will be caught in the rain. It is a rainforest, after all!