Vancouver

Vancouver is blessed. This modern city, with its glittering high-rise downtown, is ringed by some of the most beautiful water and mountain scenery on the planet. Visitors love the laid-back and outdoorsy lifestyle: You can ski in the morning, chill on the beach or paddleboard in the afternoon, and spend the night people-watching on a patio overlooking superlative mountain views. Vancouver also appeals to foodies, thanks to world-class restaurants, some of the best sushi outside of Japan, and a cutting-edge cocktail scene. Gateway to the Olympic-class mountains of Whistler, the Asian malls of Richmond, and Canada’s most English city, Victoria, there’s adventure all around this Pacific Northwest paradise.

Suspension bridge in a park in Vancouver Canada hovering over a lush, green forest.

Cayetano Gil / Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Vancouver?

Sure, Vancouver has a reputation for rain—it’s even nicknamed Rain City, or Raincouver, by the locals—but that’s how it gets such gorgeous blooms from spring to fall. No matter when you visit, make sure you bring an umbrella. Year-round the climate is pleasingly mild. During winter it rarely snows except on the local ski hills, and the temperatures hover around 40° to 50° Fahrenheit. Spring arrives early in February or March, and summer ramps up around June but lasts till late September, with temperatures just above 70° Fahrenheit and long, lingering sunsets. The city fills with cruise-going tourists throughout July and August, so canny travelers come in September to enjoy those balmy late-summer days without the crowds.

How to get around Vancouver

Vancouver’s nearest airport is Vancouver International Airport (YVR), which connects in 30 minutes to the city by the cheap and efficient Skytrain on the Canada Line. If you’re coming from Seattle or Portland, the Bolt Bus is a budget option, dropping off at the central Pacific Station; there’s also a Greyhound terminal there. Pricier but fantastically scenic is Amtrak’s Cascades route from Seattle, which hugs the coastline along the way.

Vancouver’s downtown core is easily explored by foot, bike, or public transit. The latter is plentiful and well-connected, with options including the sea bus to the North Shore, the Skytrain, and buses. Car share companies Car2Go, ZipCar, Moda, and Evo are all very popular with Vancouverites. There are also water taxis who ply their trade around False Creek to such attractions as Granville Island and Science world.

Can’t miss things to do in Vancouver

Nothing says “Vancouver” more than a cycle along the 22-kilometer Seawall. Wrapping around Downtown and including Coal Harbour, False Creek, and Stanley Park, you can snap selfies against a truly dazzling backdrop of mountains, sea, and glittering glass high-rises.

Food and drink to try in Vancouver

Vancouver is a cosmopolitan, multicultural city. After English and Chinese, the most common mother tongues are Punjabi, German, Italian, French, Tagalog, and Spanish. This translates into a thrillingly diverse dining scene that benefits from the first-class produce grown in the fertile lower mainland and Fraser Valley, as well as from the superb seafood harvested from the waters nearby. Vancouver’s Asian food scene is second to none, with excellent sushi bars, ramen joints, and izakayas in every neighborhood. You’ll also discover award-winning BC wines, a thriving craft brewing scene, and distilleries creating uniquely Canadian spirits with local ingredients.

Culture in Vancouver

The Museum of Anthropology at the UBC campus is home to one of the world’s best collections of First Nations peoples’ carvings, totem poles, and artifacts. Chinatown’s Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden is a must-see, as is the Bill Reid Gallery and the Vancouver Art Gallery. The Vancouver Symphony Orchestra have their home at the ornate Orpheum Theatre, and the city has a lively dance, opera, and theater scene.

Vancouver has more than its fair share of summer celebrations, from the cultural Bard on the Beach Shakespeare-fest, to the three-day Celebration of Light fireworks extravaganza, to the annual Seawheeze Half-Marathon, where 10,000 Lycra-clad yoga fans arrive for a weekend of running, partying in the park, and sunset yoga. But you’ll find something fun to take part in no matter what time of year it is, including winter’s Talking Stick Festival, which celebrates First Nations culture, and the spring Cherry Blossom Festival.

Local travel tips for Vancouver

Vancouver (or Lotus Land, as it’s sometimes called) really does deliver on the hype implied by its regular inclusion on those best places to live lists.
- The city’s inhabitants know there’s no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothes—so don’t let a spot of rain scare you away.
- Free shuttle buses run throughout the summer to Grouse Mountain and the Capilano Suspension Bridge, so get out into the mountains and enjoy the dense, incredibly green forests, no matter the weather.
- Also dive into BC’s incredibly diverse wines, brews, and spirits while you’re here—very little gets exported, so it’s a rare chance to soak up the local flavors.

Practical Information

- Vancouverites are an English-speaking bunch, with just a smattering of French and other languages tossed into the mix.
- On the appliance front, all of Canada runs on the same standard voltage of 110-120 v as the United States. Your hair dryer will work just fine, no adapter necessary.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
Whether you have three hours or three days, these insider recommendations will help you make the most of your time in this outdoorsy Pacific Northwest city.
HOTELS
The wild beauty of Washington state and Canada’s British Columbia is luring in a fresh crop of outdoor-focused accommodations—from tented camps to Japanese onsen-inspired forest cabins.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
This urban icon started as a hippie food truck housed in a surf shop parking lot on Vancouver Island. It has since blossomed into three restaurants, two burrito bars, a taco joint, and two food trucks, located everywhere from Hastings-Sunrise and Yaletown to Gastown and the Financial District. Chef Stefan Hartmann, who once ran a Michelin-starred restaurant in Berlin, now captains these elevated spots along with founder Jason Sussman. Expect nuanced options like chorizo-kale, pork al pastor with pineapple, and chicken with pickled vegetables, all on soft wheat tortillas for six to seven dollars. Also noteworthy are the meat-free dishes like “vegetable scrapple”—a delicious fritter of squash and chickpeas, topped with herbed tomatoes. And don’t overlook the octopus tostada—Tacofino not only sources seafood sustainably but also participates in Vancouver’s Climate Smart program and is working toward being a zero-waste business.
Routinely crowned the city’s top seafood restaurant, Blue Water Cafe is also among the continent’s best. After honing his skills at Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, executive chef Frank Pabst opened this Yaletown classic to marry fine-dining techniques with local, sustainable ingredients. Eventually, the restaurant became a founding member of the Ocean Wise program, which helps consumers make ocean-friendly seafood choices. When visiting, you can belly up to the bar—which boasts more than 200 whiskeys and 1,000 wine labels—or reserve a table in the elegant brick-and-beamed dining room, housed in a heritage warehouse. Come summertime, however, you’ll want to head straight to the patio for sushi and premium sake. Fancy a splurge? Go for the seafood tower, which showcases the bounty of British Columbia.
Playful shoe designer John Fluevog’s flagship store is right in Gastown on Water Street in a gorgeous two-storey glass-fronted building that houses the design team upstairs and you’ll find his eccentrically elegant designs on the ground floor. I love his designs, and there’s always a cute message on the soles so make sure you flip them over to look when you visit.
Canada’s first aboriginal arts hotel opened in 2014. Part luxury hotel and part social enterprise, Skwachays Lodge ticks all the right boxes. On the luxe side: plush linens, Hypnos beds (the same as the British royal family sleep on), spacious rooms, and abundant on-theme extras including Spirit Bear coffee (the company works with the Tsimshian Nation) and aboriginal-owned Mother Earth toiletries. The social enterprise part: all profits from the hotel and its gallery, which doubles as the check-in and lobby, go into subsidizing 24 live-work art studios on the lower floors of the lodge. Each room is unique, decorated with custom-made reclaimed wood furniture and designed as a partnership between local Vancouver artists and First Nations artists, including Corrine Hunt (a member of the Raven Gwa’wina clan from Ts’akis, who codesigned the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics and Paralympics medals). BC First Nations themes of eagles, ravens, bears, whales, and the sun and the moon all feature strongly in the design.
Affectionately nicknamed by locals as the “Castle in the City” for its copper-green, fairytale-like roof, the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver was once a Canadian Pacific Railway hotel—a fact that’s intertwined with the history of the city (and the railroad) itself. Guests can learn some of that story via displays in the vast lobby, where they sit alongside designer outlets like Gucci and Louis Vuitton. The lobby—as well as the Notch8 restaurant and bar, function spaces, Heritage Suites, and 507 guest rooms—recently emerged from a $55 million renovation done in advance of the hotel’s 80th anniversary. A revamp of the Fairmont Gold “hotel within a hotel” concept and lounge will launch in 2019.

The decor in the spacious rooms is sophisticated and classic, with dark woods, polished brass, and plush velvets accenting the crisp, white linens and muted palettes. Some suites even connect, making the Fairmont a solid choice for family travel. Enjoy Canadian dishes, afternoon tea, and bar bites—plus more railway travel nostalgia—in Notch8 (which is named for a train’s top speed), then work it off in the indoor pool or the well-stocked gym, which features Technogym equipment and a Kinesis wall. The Absolute Spa offers signature services using West Coast ingredients.
Part of the University of British Columbia, this museum houses one of the finest collections of Northwest Coast Aboriginal art, including bentwood boxes, feast dishes, totem poles, and canoes from the Haida and Coast Salish people. Some of these artifacts are displayed in a soaring grand hall with views of the Point Grey cliffs. Visitors can also look forward to a respectable European ceramics collection, with earthenware and stoneware from the 16th to 19th centuries, and a rotunda with works from Haida artist Bill Reid, including the massive Raven and the First Men, made out of laminated yellow cedar.
A clandestine spot to imbibe in Gastown, the Diamond is the speakeasy when you’re in Vancouver. Bar none, one of the best bars I have been to on recommendation from Nathan at Judas Goat. They will make you anything here, like a tasty pisco sour. Plus, they give you these really cute glasses with flowers on them. We didn’t try the menu, but if it’s anything like the drinks, I’ll be returning for a meal.
Japadog is one of those odd and wacky combinations of a hot dog with Japanese toppings, but it works! I had the Terimayo, a teriyaki-drenched dog topped with seaweed. Not substantial for the $5 price tag, but a good snack. The location on Robson is dine-in, and there are carts across the city.
The lush green forest, soaring trees and various lakes are reason enough to spend the day meandering along Stanley Park’s well kept, well posted trails. Turns out the city has given you another reason: the Stanley Park Environmental Art Project. Six artists have installed ecologically sensitive art projects throughout the park, and we were lucky enough to stumble upon this massive sphere of ancient wood sitting peacefully between two ends of its former self. “We wanted to construct something that works within the missing section to accentuate the mass, the length and the essence of the entire ancient tree.” Keep your eyes open though, as some of these installations are set back and off the trail. This particular piece was discovered on the Lovers Walk trail somewhere near the intersection of the Tatlow Walk trail.
Presiding over Stanley Park, Canada’s largest aquarium houses more than 50,000 creatures, from penguins to sea otters to three-toed sloths. Don’t miss the star turns from the rescued Steller sea lions Izzy and Rogue, who swoop gracefully under the water and bask on sun-warmed rocks. Afterward, be sure to visit the theater, which goes beyond 3-D with mist, scents, wind, and even lightning. Adding substance to style, the aquarium is also the headquarters of Ocean Wise, a global conservation initiative dedicated to increasing the understanding, wonder, and appreciation of our seas.