Montreal

Montreal is shaped by its stirred-up history, the constant flow of immigrants, and a cultural identity crisis. Is it a French city with an English twist, or the other way around? Even after 400 years of quarreling, no one really knows. But to Montrealers, this dichotomy only adds substance to the city. Neighborhoods like Mile End and Petite-Patrie are artsy and homey, while the McGill Ghetto thrives as an international student community thanks to the city’s five major universities. And of course there is Old Montreal, the one place in North America that could be mistaken for an ancient French village.

Aerial view of Montréal with the Biosphere Environment Museum

R.M. Nunes/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Montreal?

Its location far up the eastern coast of North America means this city is blessed with four very distinct seasons, each beautiful in its own way and with its own share of things to do (yes, even in the dead of winter, Montreal is alive with energy).

How to get around Montreal

Montreal’s airport is about 30 minutes from the city center via bus (with free Wi-Fi) or taxi (the $40 flat fare from the airport gets you anywhere you need to go within downtown).

Renting a car in Montreal is not recommended, as traffic is awful and finding parking nearly impossible. But a bicycle-sharing system, Bixi—the first of its kind—is blessedly extensive. The public transit system, STM, with its reliable network of Métro and buses, is easy to navigate and quite cheap (a 3-day pass costs $18).

Can’t miss things to do in Montreal

Skip the skyscrapers and high-end stores of downtown and head straight to Plateau Mont-Royal for artsy coffee shops, local designers, and delicious brasseries. This is one of the most picturesque neighborhoods in the city and definitely gives the best feel for Montreal’s vibrant city life.

Food and drink to try in Montreal

Montreal’s world-famous restaurant scene really is as awesome as people say. From exotic hole-in-the-walls in Shaughnessy Village to the French bistros of Plateau Mont-Royal, and from eateries that redefine poutine and the fine dining experiences of downtown to ethnic foods from around the globe, locals will tell you to pack your eating pants because you will need them.

Culture in Montreal

The massive Fine Arts Museum, with its touring exhibits and permanent collection of Canadian art, is the perennial favorite. And the whimsical Science Museum, in Old Montreal, offers fun stuff for kids and adults. Other popular highlights are the Contemporary Arts Museum, the Canadian Architecture Center, the Pointe-à-Callière Museum, and the McCord Museum.

Montreal could be called the festival capital of the world, with hundreds of festivals year-round, even during the cold months. The official season kicks off in June with Francofolies, a French music festival, and goes into fall, with Chinese Lanterns at the Botanical Gardens. Other notable events include Osheaga, Jazz Fest, Just for Laughs, the fireworks competition, and White Night. If you can, time your trip to catch a festival (or two).

Local travel tips for Montreal

Don’t let weather extremes keep you from discovering the city; as locals say, there is no bad weather, only bad clothing. Locals also know to never take a car—except to get outside the city, after rush hour. Montreal is very walkable, and your destination is most likely a quick Métro ride away. Also, do brush up on a few French phrases (Bonjour, Merci, S’il-vous-plaît). Many Montrealers really appreciate it when visitors acknowledge the city as French-speaking. You may be rewarded with warm smiles.

Guide Editor

Marie-Eve Vallieres

Marie is a native Montrealer trying to balance a deep love for her hometown and an unquenchable thirst for travel and discovery. She has been to more than 20 countries, lived abroad in both France and the U.K., and is always on the lookout for authentic experiences wherever she travels—especially if it involves chocolate. She blogs at To Europe and Beyond.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
This vibrant Québec city is experiencing a major hotel boom—and these are the best hotels to check into right now.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Ask any Montrealer the question “Which is the fanciest restaurant in town?” and chances are Toqué! will be a frequent answer. Indeed, quite fancy. But also quite expensive. Luckily, chef Charles-Antoine Crête, once mentored by Toqué’s Normand Laprise, decided that a more accessible and younger version of the famous restaurant would fit perfectly well with the new Place des Festivals—in style, location, and ambience. And he wasn’t wrong. I always go for the beef tartare, and not once have I been disappointed. The menu changes according to the season, but there is a constancy in quality, regardless of the time of the year. This is definitely the best way to get a taste of Montreal‘s finest, sans the waiting list and the steep check.
If you only have a day in the city, go to Mont-Royal park for the views. But if you have more time, I strongly suggest you also visit Laurier Park, just a stone throw’s from Laurier metro station. It’s the park Montrealers enjoy the most. Mature trees, beautiful architecture in the surrounding streets and tons of take-away restaurants nearby (not to mention free wifi) make this park incredibly popular from early March to late November, from the first to the last rays of warm sunlight. It really is a great place for a picnic, for a tanning session or even an impromptu volleyball game.
Yes, there is Old Montreal and the shops of rue Sainte-Catherine. But Montreal is much more, especially in the Plateau Mont-Royal neighborhood, a place famous for its alternative atmosphere. Here you find tons of street art, each piece more delightful than the next. Most murals aren’t spontaneous works by local artists but are part of the many street art festivals taking place on Boulevard Saint-Laurent throughout the year, like MuRAL. Artists come from all over the world to paint, lending an international vibe to the city but also some amazing pieces. This here is one of my favorites, located on the corner of Saint-Laurent and Des Pins streets.
Let’s start with this. The province of Quebec produces over 80 percent of the world supply of maple syrup. You’re welcome. Which means we know our stuff; we know precisely how to use it, with what ingredients and in what quantities (that is, with everything and as much as possible). The Maple Delights shop is definitely for tourists to spend money, but that doesn’t mean that money won’t be well invested. Visitors can either opt for an on-the-spot treat, like ice cream, macarons (yes, you read that correctly), and even maple beignets, a traditional Québécois dish. Others can load up on take-away products like maple butter, all kinds of spreads, teas, and of course syrup. All of these can be gifts for your loved ones back home, or gifts for yourself—for absolutely no reason other than you being fabulous and in Montreal.
The Lantern Festival is without a doubt my favorite festival—ever, in the world. I’m not even sure why. It’s not star-studded. It’s not particularly big. It’s not in the warmest conditions. But damn it if it’s not the prettiest thing. The pathways of the Chinese Gardens are lit up at nightfall, illuminating hundreds of lanterns scattered around the pond. Some are animal-shaped, others are human-shaped, and together they create this amazing scenery that seems to have traveled halfway across the world. Which isn’t that far from the truth, technically. The lanterns are designed by Chinese artists in China and assembled in Montreal over the summer. If you are visiting Montreal in the fall, this event is a must-do. Until November 3rd at the Montreal Botanical Gardens.
This place is nothing short of a local institution. Bo-Bec has served countless cones and ice cream sandwiches since it opened in the late 1980s, but the owner never changed the warm, genuine smile he offers every customer who walks in. And that makes all the difference. Bo-Bec doesn’t serve just any ice cream. Everything is handmade, and about half of the flavors available at the counter are original concoctions, be it maple nougat or rose water strawberry. They even have vegan ice cream! The perfect spot for a post-dinner treat or to take away and eat in the massive park around the corner.
Parisian Brasserie dining, and a few hundred bottles of good wine standing sentinel for good measure. It didn’t take me long to get used to afternoons and evening at La Coupole. I had an equally delightful time at breakfast; a bit of yogurt and granola, some bread and cheese, and NHL highlights from the night before. I’m a simple guy, what can I say. Fine dining, good wine, and hockey fights go together like PB&J. In my book, anyway.
Possibly the most important and influential publishers of graphic novels in the last 20 years, Drawn & Quarterly has a must-visit shop in the cool Mile End neighborhood. It sells work from the extensive D&Q catalog (which includes Joe Sacco, Lynda Barry, and Adrian Tomine) and from other publishers. Check out 184 Rue Beaubien by local graphic artist Cyril Doisneau.
This is a 5-star boutique hotel located in the heart of Montreal, across the street from the Centre Bell, home of Les Montréal Canadiens, and tucked along famed rue Sainte-Catherine. Was I blown away during my stay here? Yeah, and then some. After checking in, I was greeted by a frosty bucket filled with my favorite beer, tossed the curtains back to reveal the stunning view of downtown Montreal, then scrambled up to the 12th floor for a dip in the saltwater pool, and relaxed in the outdoor hot tub as the day rolled along. I rarely thought about leaving. I dined at La Coupole and had a few cocktails in the Wine Bar, and... well, that’s enough. Things got out of hand from there. I spent four nights at Hotel Crystal, and had what is to date my best hotel experience in my homeland.
My everyday diet goes off the rails when I visit Montreal. This is my favorite food town in the world, and I often begin an adventure with a visit to Patati Patata. Poutine for breakfast isn’t a healthy option, but the beer I drink with it has plenty of organic ingredients, so it’s basically a wash. I’ve made plenty of photographs in this place, but I thought this shot of one of the cooks prepping a takeout box perfectly captures the atmosphere; there’s nothing quite like waiting for that first bite. Don’t be put off by the lines; this diner is a Montreal institution, and a joint you can’t miss. But I do suggest you punch a new hole or two into your belt.