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While most people think of Italy as a summertime destination, there are wonders to be found in this northern port city any time of year—especially winter! With hardly any tourists in these cooler (and slightly wetter) months, the city is quiet and calm and opens its doors to some incredible art exhibits, live operas, and wintertime flavors.

Stroll through gorgeous museums and stunning churches to get a feel for the centuries of history. Enjoy the flavors of focaccia, pesto, and gelato. Then stroll along the sea, watch the catch come in at day’s end, and head up to the ancient towers of the Barbarossa walls—or to Castelletto at sunset for a beautiful view of the lights coming on over the harbor.

Take two days to explore this coastal town, then venture to other villages along the Italian shores. Be sure to hike from Santa Margherita to Camogli along the edge of the Portofino promontory.

Board a boat or a train, and head into the areas surrounding Genoa along the Ligurian coast, between the mountains and the sea.

For a lovely getaway from Genoa, look no further than Cinque Terre. These five colorful villages, each hundreds of years old and perched on rocky outcroppings, are connected by gorgeous hiking paths, boats, and a straightforward train system. Come to drink wonderful wine, hike along the stunning coastline, and sun on the beautiful (and sometimes hidden!) beaches.

Although it touts itself as one of the largest aquariums in Europe, personally I find the aquarium to be incredibly overpriced by Genoa standards (at 23 euro for an adult ticket, I was expecting greatness), and more importantly, quite sad. With just a few exhibits and even fewer animals, it doesn’t make for any sort of real ‘wow’ afternoon. But, with small children, and on a really rainy or cold winter day, it can provide a great indoor entertainment option. And starting in May, a new exhibit on beluga whales is set to open - so hopefully that will breathe some new life into the space.

The beautiful “suburb” of Genoa, Nervi boasts a lovely series of green parks (something Genoa lacks overall) and a well-tended passeggiata path that runs directly along the rocky shore. Especially popular with families on the weekend, the path is easily accessible from the Nervi train station (a 10-minute ride from Brignole Station in central Genoa). Spend the day escaping the bustle of central Genoa by walking along the shore, enjoying the museums tucked into centuries-old palaces in the parks, and having dinner at a small fish restaurant along the coast.

If you are looking for a super modern, contemporary cocktail bar in Genoa, head to Mua just a few blocks away from Piazza Ferrari. With super sleek white leather couches, you almost feel like you are not even in Genoa anymore. And while the food isn’t anything to write home about, they have an extensive cocktails menu - including my favorite, the Raspberry Mule. My suggestion is to have a few drinks with the friendly bartender, and then move on to a nearby osteria for dinner later in the evening.

Built in the early 12th century as the private chapel of the powerful Doria family, the Church of San Matteo is adorned with a stunning Venetian glass mosaic over the entrance flanking the small piazza (not an everyday experience in 10th century Genoa). While the Republic of Genoa and the Republic of Venice were deep enemies at this time, the mosaic was fashioned by imprisoned Venetians from the near-by Genovese jail. While not open very often, peek inside if you can for a glimpse of the gorgeous frescoed ceilings, and the ‘original’ sword of Andrea Doria himself.

The winding streets of ancient Genoa all lead in one direction—straight up. Lace up your tennis shoes and keep climbing. Eventually you will reach a small park at the edge of the city, the entrance to one of the many fortresses that speckled its 17th-century walls. From here you’ll be treated to one of the best views of both old and new Genoa. Come at dusk for a stunning sunset over the urban edge of the Ligurian Sea. (And if you are too tired to walk back down, catch the funicular for less than two euros!)

Requiring some expert navigating through the graffiti-covered back alleys of town, it’s not easy to find the restaurant/pub Osteria del Sole. But like most tricky things in life, this one’s worth it in the end. Lorenzo, the owner, has just recently returned to Genoa to open Osteria Del Sole after 13 years of running restaurants in New York City (thus, he speaks incredible English), and brings a metropolitan feel to his space (I love the couches in the front). Come early to grab a seat at the bar (a real rarity in Genoa). With a great liquor cabinet, feel free to order your favorite cocktail, and then stay for dinner. Lorenzo has a fabulous kitchen.

If you love ‘experiential learning’, the Galata museum is a great winter option for exploring the maritime history of the port of Genoa. With great ‘hands-on’ exhibits, and a beautiful roof top observation deck, this museum is one of the best in Genoa. And at only 11 euro, it is priced quite effectively. Make sure you don’t miss the “Tempest” exhibit -- a 4D experience of surviving a massive storm in a tiny life boat off Cape Horn. You can also pay a supplemental fee to explore the submarine parked in the harbor in front of the museum - but if you suffer from claustrophobia at all, I’d steer clear, as the space inside is incredibly small.

As most of the museums in Genoa focus on art of the Middle Ages and/or Renaissance, it is nice every now and then to find options that feel slightly more ‘modern’. Head to the Villa Croce (just a 15 minute walk from the old town) for the interesting juxtaposition of contemporary art installations in a very historical building. If you come on a Sunday, the visit is free - and you can also see all the dogs of Genoa enjoying a morning outing in the park that surrounds the Villa. Don’t miss the upstairs gallery space - the exhibit by Jackie Saccoccio is breathtaking.