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The Trendiest Travel Destinations—and Where to Go Next

Chef Leah Cohen gives the rundown on where to find some of the best food in Myanmar, including catfish stew, tea-leaf salad, and pineapple-avocado shakes.

The Changing Face of Myanmar: Myint Zaw’s Goldman Prize–Winning Photos of a Country in Transition

A once-impenetrable country reveals itself to writer Matt Gross one meal at a time.

Beauty Safari: Behind the Lens with Photographer Jessica Antola

On a luxurious journey from Singapore to Bangkok, writer Chris Colin lifts the veil on the magic—and mystery—of rail travel.

How to Lose Your Way and Not Panic

A Photographer’s Eye on Burma

A Burmese Salad That Says Welcome

Burma Superstar lives up to its name. Opened more than 20 years ago, the Inner Richmond restaurant has gained a following for such specialties as hand-wrapped samosas filled with meat and potatoes, chili lamb, and traditional rice salad. Known for its curries and use of spices, Burmese cuisine combines the flavors of India, Laos, China, and Thailand. All these influences come together seamlessly on Burma Superstar’s wide-ranging menu, which features home-style dishes prepared with traditional recipes. The restaurant also has locations in Oakland and Alameda. Reservations aren’t accepted.

Overview

Mandalay and Bagan are two of the most essential stops on any Myanmar agenda. Regarded as one of the world’s most spectacular temple complexes, Bagan deserves its status as arguably Myanmar’s top draw. Located on the banks of the Irrawaddy River, it is home to the largest and densest concentration of Buddhist temples, pagodas, stupas, and ruins in the world. The former royal capital of Burma, Mandalay is one of the country’s most storied cities and is one of the most evocative names in Asia.

A UNESCO World Heritage site in a mountain valley about 40 miles west of Da Nang, My Son is a vestige of the Champa kingdom, a culture that was heavily shaped by Hindu beliefs and practices. Built between the 4th and 14th centuries, the temples pay homage to the god Shiva, though the deity is often referred to here by different names. While some of the shrines are partially restored, and others overgrown with greenery or showing their age (many were destroyed by American bombing during the Vietnam War), the sheer scope of the ruins are proof of the reach of Hinduism and the lofty ambitions of the Cham kings.

The temperature dropped as the sun went down, and fog fell over the city. This was good news, as we had planned on wandering the ferret warrens surrounding the big Mawlamyine markets. We came upon this game of kickball, and put our adventuring on hold to make fools of ourselves in a typically Burmese way. Mawlamyine is a part of Southern Burma that sees relatively few outside visitors, which really is saying something when you consider how few tourists visit Burma each year. Burmese are generally kind, open, and honest folk who will readily invite you into their homes for a bite to eat, or into their game of kickball - only to laugh at how incredibly bad you are when you can’t keep the ball in the air for more than two seconds. I must have joined in half a dozen games while wandering the city in a single night - unexpected, and tons of fun. For those wondering, this game is called chinlone, and it is one of Burma’s oldest traditional games. In typical Burmese fashion, the game is not about scoring points, but how well you play the game. Perfect.

Getting off the beaten track in Burma is sometimes easy. Other times, it’s not. A host of factors conspire to keep tourists on the straight and narrow path; touts, tour operators, and the government want to point you towards places where you have to pay a fee on top of another fee on top of another fee just to ride in a horse and buggy around a tiny island while trinket pedlars swarm you at every stop (I’m using a loose example here). That’s not my idea of a good time, and that’s exactly why I deign to make my own itinerary everywhere I go. I decided against visiting a well-known tourist trap of an island south of Mandalay in favor of visiting a neat little rural village nearby. No touts, no louts, and no other visitors - just me, my travel companion, my camera, and a host of amazing Burmese farmers. I don’t need another reason to get off the track.