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At the Big White Ski Resort there is more to do than ski and snowboard which is especially useful to know when you’re not a skiing Canadian like myself. Instead of hitting the slopes there are snowshoe excursions, ice wall climbing, sledding with inflatable tubes, ice skating, sleigh rides, dog sledding, and, even more importantly, delicious restaurants and bars full of beer and locally produced wine.

This hotel is on our list of The 10 Best Hotels in Canada.

Fogo Island Inn sits at the very edge of the north Atlantic on isolated Fogo Island in Newfoundland. Designed by internationally renowned architect Todd Saunders, the inn’s arresting modern appearance is suggests an iceberg from a distance, with its raised section representing the island’s traditional stilted fishing platforms. But when visitors get close, they see the wooden boards layered together, and it’s clear that everything is handmade. The by-hand ethos covers all the furniture and furnishings, created by local artisans who’ve worked with artists in residence to create contemporary versions of traditional objects.

Staying at the inn is admittedly expensive, but this is essentially a living art piece that supports the local community and aims to honor the island’s past while carrying it to the future. It feels like a grand home with attentive staff. A private 42-seat cinema, partnered with the National Film Board, carries a movie library for guests to enjoy at any time; there’s also an art gallery, a well-stocked library, and a supply of Gore-Tex hiking boots and other outdoor equipment to borrow. The inn shows off the dazzling landscape, and it’s easy to spend all day at the windows watching the sea while whales breech, icebergs float past, or storms dash on the rocks.

“She’s an original yet timeless Québec fashion designer—a rare combination. Marie Saint Pierre is known for using unusual fabrics with soft colors as well as black and white. Her designs feel really classic. I stop in when I need something chic and comfortable,” says Nathalie Bondil, head curator at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.

If you’re on the hunt for semi-reasonably priced, quasi-fancy smørrebrød around the city center Hallernes’ is a popular option. With a small stand in the modern and hip Torvehallerne shopping center, they prepare a mixture of traditional and more modern versions of smørrebrød. When ordering, remember that you’ll want at least two pieces and that it is almost expected that you never order two pieces of the same type.

While in the Alabama hills I fought for my life against the most feared worm in the West. Ok not really, but after finding out the saga of Tremor monster movies were filmed here I couldn’t resist a little photoshopping. While the town of Lone Pine is a bit derelict on the outside, dig an inch deeper and you’ll discover it was the backdrop to almost every classic Western. Hundreds of films, series and advertisements have been filmed here due to the perpetually sunny days and striking landscapes. If you find yourself East of the Sierras, be sure to stop off in Lone Pine for a day to camp, hike, rock-climb, and tour the film museum!

Why we love it: A millennial-minded stay that looks great on Instagram

The Highlights:
- An affordable hotel in a prime location
- Playful but comfy design
- Fun spaces to meet fellow travelers

The Review:
The first California property from millennial-minded hotel brand Moxy, this Gaslamp Quarter hotel appeals directly to the Instagram-obsessed traveler. Everything here is designed for the perfect shot, from the neon sign in the entryway to the daily quotes scrawled in bright pink on the elevator mirrors. Guests check in either at the massive, square-shaped bar or the custom tricycle, at which point they receive a signature “Get Moxy #5” cocktail before being shown to one of 126 smartly designed rooms. Equipped with purposeful details like pegboards to hang clothing and beds framed by LED-lit platforms, rooms are small for two guests, but that’s kind of the point—at the Moxy, guests are encouraged to spend time in the hotel’s communal spaces instead.

With places like the lobby lounge and library to hang out, that’s not a hard directive to follow. A feast for the senses, the lobby blends industrial style (exposed electrical conduits, steel finishing, wood accents) with nautical details (camouflage wall coverings, porthole mirrors, a shipping container). An LED light fixture by Canadian-based Moment Factory hangs overhead, while the first San Diego mural by L.A.-based artist Paul Nandee decorates the lounge area, which also features pinball machines, Jenga, and other games to keep guests entertained. If you need a little alone time, head upstairs to the library, where you can read under a topographic map of San Diego Bay, or hit the gym, equipped with pink boxing gloves and candy (guests are asked not to take themselves too seriously during their stay). Come evening however, it’s time to hit Bar Moxy for local beers and handcrafted cocktails. Should you want to explore the city, there’s also a grab-and-go area, where you can pick up coffee, snacks, and drinks before heading out to Sixth Avenue.

Skiers and visitors who think fondue and raclette are the best expressions of Switzerland’s melted-cheese cuisine will be surprised when they taste their first Käseschnitte (called croûte au fromage in French-speaking Switzerland). This soul-satisfying, open-faced, broiled-cheese sandwich is usually laden with bacon or ham and topped with perfectly bronzed cheese or a cheesy cream sauce before being garnished with cool pickled cukes and cocktail onions. Cabane du Mont-Fort, a self-serve kiosk located in a 1920s stone Alpine hut on the slopes of Verbier at Les 4 Vallées (Switzerland’s largest ski resort), has the best in the country, not to mention stunning views of Mont Blanc from its outdoor picnic tables. Don’t expect fawning or fast service, but you can count on a thick slice of bread anchored by a slab of melted cheese, marbled sweet and smoky bacon, and a few tomato wedges to offset the fatty richness.

The world often thinks of Canada as the land that hockey built, but the truth is, Canada has a rich, diverse sports heritage that extends well beyond the stick and puck. Canada’s Sports Hall of Fame, established in 1955 and opened at its new location in Calgary’s Olympic Park in 2011, has enshrined more than 500 members, including Olympic skiers, curlers, swimmers, Paralympians, triathletes, and, of course, hockey players. The new hall features a number of interactive exhibits and proudly showcases some of Canada’s best sport achievements.

While Chamonix boasts a plethora of exquisite fine-dining restaurants, the area has a rugged, often wild side too. Step forward, Micro Brasserie de Chamonix or MBC as it’s known: Towers of nachos covered in glowing cheese, jugs of beer dripping with froth, and a clientele more chug than chic make this fun spot ideal for après-ski. Run by Canadians, this microbrewery offers a wide selection of real ales and lagers brewed in the onsite fermenting tanks and vessels. Classic Canadian poutine, slow-cooked ribs, and a wide selection of burgers satisfy the appetite after a long day on the slopes.

‘Purveyors of artisan sausage’ is an excellent description of this gourmet dog and beer spot in Austin‘s Warehouse District (4th and Colorado). The loft ceilings, large vintage murals, friendly neighborhood bar and funky table seating all create a cool, hipster spot to chow down. They’re now serving coffee and breakfast and it’s a great place to hit on a Friday or Saturday night, when they often have live music to kick off the weekend. Don’t forget the waffle fries and the root beer float, to make your trip to Franks complete.

“Alon and I are regulars for Friday breakfast. We love their take on the Arab dish shakshuka. In the original, eggs are poached in a sauce of tomatoes and red peppers, but here they use green peppers instead of red, and they add goat cheese.” —Architect Irene Kronenberg

When you tell your friends that you’re headed here, everyone will chime in about the dish that you have to get. ‘Make sure you try the smoked salmon flatbread!’ ‘The burger, be sure to get the burger’.’ ‘The donuts! You have to get the donuts!’ It’s good to know that with breakfast, brunch or lunch, they don’t take reservations. Be prepared to possibly wait and hang out on the porch swings or hang out at the bocce courts and play a while (they’re about a 10-minute walk from Boon Fly). With dinner, they do take reservations and I’d encourage you to get those well-ahead. If you’ve had a big bike ride in nearby Napa Valley or are headed in to downtown Napa for a concert or event, Boon Fly Cafe is just 5 miles away and will leave you with your belly full and happy.

Formerly Belcampo.

Each of the 16 rooms at Copal Tree Lodge is a spacious villa-style suite set on the edge of the jungle, which gives a sense of privacy and peacefulness. Guests shouldn’t be surprised to see coatimundi, agouti, and other wildlife while showering in the spa-style bathrooms with their floor-to-ceiling windows. Tile floors, comfortable beds wrapped with gauzy mosquito nets, and private verandas are standard in every suite, as is Wi-Fi and complimentary laundry service, and the hotel has a pool and a restaurant/bar. The numerous outdoor activities include exploring Copal Tree Lodge’s chocolate trail and kayaking or canoeing on the Rio Grande River at the base of the property; various trips can be organized off-site, too. The hotel is closed from mid-September to late October.

After Toronto, Montréal is the Canadian city with the largest population of residents of Italian descent. For more than a century, the community has been centered in one of the city’s most charming neighborhoods, Little Italy. The way to the heart of this neighborhood is arguably through its stomach or, rather, the Jean-Talon Market, where residents have come to buy produce and stock their pantries since 1933. Even if you aren’t shopping for fresh vegetables or fruits, it’s a good place to come to sample Québecois products and buy gifts like local jams, jellies, and maple products to take back home.

When I stepped into the grand lobby of Québec’s Le Château Montebello, I felt like I was entering Paul Bunyan’s living room. Giant timbers braced a three-story-high ceiling, and a massive fireplace in the center radiated warmth in all directions. After checking in, I joined the guests gathered around the six-sided hearth and sank into a leather club chair. I spent the rest of the day by the fire, sipping hot toddies and napping, as the comfort of the crackling flames sent me and the other fireside dozers snuggling deeper into our cushions. I had come to ski some of the 65,000 acres of wooded backcountry that neighbor the resort, but the château was so welcoming, I found it hard to leave.


Often described as the world’s largest log cabin, the lodge and two other main buildings were constructed in 1930 from 10,000 red cedar logs and 500,000 handmade wooden shingles. The houses and the vast surrounding forests were long owned by the politically prominent Papineau family, and until 1970, the estate remained a private nature retreat for Canada’s upper class. As I walked through the château’s halls, the intricately carved banisters and exposed beams reminded me of the great western lodges in the U.S. national parks—only without any grumpy tourists demanding to know where the animals are.

In the guest rooms, deluxe amenities such as flat-screen TVs and rain-dome showerheads upstaged anything found in Yellowstone or Yosemite. Despite the modern perks, rawhide lampshades and other rustic details helped my suite retain its frontier appeal. When I got up to pull the plaid drapes closed that night, I watched a horse-drawn sleigh pass by, glowing in the moonlight against the dark ribbon of the frozen Ottawa River.

Without fresh snow to ski the next morning, I was left to explore the lodge’s other activities. I opted out of getting scrubbed with maple sugar at the spa or unsuccessfully flirting with French-Canadian women by the fire, and instead devoted the day to learning the inscrutable rules of curling. The château has an indoor ice rink dedicated to the sport, a national favorite that’s best described as a combination of shuffleboard and falling down a lot. My instructor was Henri, a kindly sexagenarian who, like many in Québec’s western Outaouais region, seemed more comfortable speaking French than English. As it turns out, kindly reassurance sounds the same in either language. But as my backside repeatedly hit the ice, Henri’s patient polyglot insistence that I was doing “une belle job” grew progressively less convincing.

After my rough-and-tumble day, I dined in the white-tablecloth Aux Chantignoles restaurant. Québecois cuisine dominates the menu, and I followed a dinner of tender venison osso buco with a slice of Québec’s famously sweet and jiggly sugar pie—think pecan pie sans pecans. Snow fell just in time for me to ski through the nearby forest on my last day. I spent a long afternoon there, gliding among stands of birch, pine, and spruce in the rolling Laurentian Highlands. Now and again, I paused to admire one of the countless frozen lakes, their smooth surfaces dotted with tracks left by moose and white-tailed deer. I skied in the silent wilderness until just after sunset. As the scent of a wood fire began to tickle my nose, I grew eager to cozy up by the hearth again. I turned back toward the château’s stone chimney, its rising plume of smoke signaling for my return.
This appeared in the November/December 2010 issue.