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Terraced like the surrounding rice paddies, Soori Bali occupies an undeveloped stretch of fertile coastline roughly 25 minutes from Tabanan, a town northwest of Denpasar known for traditional farming and artisan crafts. The resort’s modern design plays on the shapes, colors, and landscapes of the surrounding area and incorporates local stone. (At the recommendation of the surrounding village’s elder, the property also constructed 10 stone temples onsite within the property.) Outdoor spaces feature bright green trees and grasses along with infinity pools, while high ceilings, cool colors, and marble floors inside create a tranquil escape from the heat. The property’s spacious rooms and wood-slat shades give off an art-gallery vibe, and the reading-room lounge displays the works of the hotel’s artists in residence. Food is another big focus here, both at the resort’s three restaurants and in tours that explore rice cultivation, exotic ingredients found at the Kerambitan market, and the spices, cacao, and coffee from nearby Jatiluwih.

How often does a king’s car pick you up at the airport? Arrival at Heritage Suites begins with a vintage 1962 or 1968 Mercedes—one of which used to belong to the late King Norodom Sihanouk—before you’re promptly whisked off to a historic cream-colored building of soaring arches, mahogany columns, and wrought-iron balconies. With just 26 rooms (most of which are suites), the boutique hideaway is often so serene as to feel more like a royal’s private compound than a hotel—if a royal’s compound had its own high-end tour agency and one of the trendiest jazz bars in town. Rooms are spacious and surprisingly modern in style—all suites have a lush private garden, and top-tier rooms also have a private hot tub—and welcome drinks and canapés help guests immediately acclimate to the villa’s languid and decadent atmosphere. The sprawling saltwater pool and its umbrella-shaded sunbeds beckon at all hours (including for romantic candlelit dining), while the intimate spa offers yet another way to unwind in between temple excursions.

Best of all, the hotel gives back: It works closely with the Sala Baï Hotel and Restaurant School, training and hiring students from this school that works with underprivileged Cambodians, especially women, and offers guests opportunities to participate in activities with the school.

This 1st-century wonder will take your breath away. Not only is it one of the city’s most ancient sites, it’s been in continuous use for centuries. Originally built as a private temple, today it is a Catholic church and the resting place of Italian kings and the artist Raphael. Make the most of a wet day in Rome and watch as the rain falls through the center oculus.

During my last stay in Seoul, I spent most of my time in the historic heart of the city north of the Han river. I did take a Sunday afternoon, though, to walk around the Gangnam district—the chic high rise–dominated neighborhood south of the river. (As recently as a few decades ago, this area was still rice-paddies.) Just around the corner from Bong-eun-sa temple (which dates from the 8th century), this striking building caught my eye: the headquarters for the Hyundai Development Company. Designed by renowned architect Daniel Libeskind, it’s known as “The Tangent.” In the architect’s words, “the Tangent is a project that is about the relationship between the ever-changing circle of nature and the straight line of technology.” (Those words could also succinctly describe the recent history of postwar Korea.) In my mind, though, because this structure reminds me of one of my favorite artists, this is the Kandinsky building in Seoul. And across the street, beneath the Korea World Trade Center tower, is the COEX mall, Asia’s largest underground shopping center. Grab a bite in the food court and get a feel for the youth pop-culture vibe; a K-pop dance competition just might be taking place on a nearby stage. To get here: Take Subway Line 2, exit Samseong (COEX) station.

At first glance, the lobby is the place to be at this boutique hotel in the Gaslamp Quarter. At check-in guests are offered a selection of local wine and beer—and again during happy hour. Under soaring ceilings supported by leather-wrapped pillars and surrounded by colorful art, you can sip and socialize. But don’t ignore the scene on the roof, either, where you’ll find a pool with oversized, floating pillows; fire pits with food and drink service; and views of the Coronado Bridge, Mount San Miguel, and the old and new architectural icons of downtown. In fact, the rooftop is so special, you may want to book the only accommodation in the 159-room hotel that grants you direct access to it: the Cabana Suite, where a private staircase leads to your own poolside cabana. On the other hand, if you’re traveling as a family, you may find that another option beats private rooftop access: the Star Suite, complete with three king-size beds, two of which form a custom-built bunk bed. Either way, expect ultra-modern furnishings paired with skyline views.

Swoops of smooth, scarlet earth overlook Dominica’s northeast coast near Calibishie. At Point Baptiste, a mile-long coral reef protects the seashore, creating a calm lagoon. Farther down the coast, however, the Atlantic erodes and slaps waves high onto the dramatic headland. If you visit Point Baptiste Beach, know that a caretaker sometimes requests a donation from foreigners. Still, it’s a small price to pay for exploring this spectacular landscape of black sand, red rock, and splendid mountain views, which are especially beautiful at dusk.

It doesn’t get more quintessentially Australian than this: waking up to a symphony of kookaburras and the heady scent of eucalyptus, the sight of kangaroos roaming freely about the 7,000-acre nature reserve. You might be tricked into thinking you’d slept under the stars—if it weren’t for the four-poster bed, flicker of a warm fire, and sunrise reflected from the glittering private pool. A three hours’ drive west of Sydney, this luxury ecolodge feels worlds away, surrounded by sandstone bluffs and sweeping plains filled with leafy gumtrees and Wollemi pines. It has 40 homestead-style villas that are as eco-friendly as they are indulgent: materials sourced within a 60-mile radius, solar panels for hot water and lighting. Highlights include the Aussie cuisine, mostly grown and sourced within 100 miles of the resort (and included in the all-inclusive rate, along with a premium minibar). A fruit orchard and edible garden supplies organic herbs, vegetables, fruits, and nuts.


The most intriguing aspect of the property is an original farmhouse, built around 1832, that hosted Charles Darwin in 1836. Today, the homestead functions as a museum that highlights the Indigenous, settler, and agricultural history of the valley. The comprehensive program of activities gets guests off the homestead: There are peaks to climb, glowworms to ogle, and horses to ride. Following a landslide in 2022, Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley has faced access issues. It is temporarily closed.

Sun Moon Lake is Taiwan‘s largest fresh water lake. When I lived in Nantou County, central Taiwan, I would often ride my scooter to Sun Moon Lake for a bit of fresh air and reflection. One day I drove to the lake and traveled up a hill to the Ci-en Pagoda. Parking my bike, I climbed to the top of the pagoda and gazed out at the misty lake, which seemed magical in that moment. Many legends surround Sun Moon Lake, including the one which says the lake was once inhabited by two dragons. These dragons used the sun and moon as toys, causing the world to fall into darkness. Eventually a young couple came and defeated the dragons, brining light back into the world. Sun Moon Lake is one of the most peaceful places I’ve ever visited.

Sunset from the plaza of the Schwedegon Pagoda, Rangoon, Burma.

Hidden away in the hamlet of Velika Plana inside the Velebit Mountain Biosphere Reserve, this ranch retreat is the perfect place to discover Croatia’s rugged Lika region. Either book a stay in one of the units (which range from teepees and river tents to mudhouse-style casitas and en-suite rooms with private porches) or pop in for the day to take advantage of the many activities on offer. The ranch specializes in horseback riding—guests can enjoy lessons, two-hour trots, or day-long rides that roam the range—but also features canoe expeditions, archery, and Jeep rides through the wilderness. For those who choose to spend the night, the spa compound has a pool, a Siberian cedar hot tub, space for yoga, and an outdoor treatment room.

For a spectacular hike near Nairobi, head to the Ngong Hills, just a 40–minute drive away. These knuckle-shaped hills offer panoramic views of Nairobi and the surrounding mountain ranges, and you can choose to turn back at any point if you don’t feel like scaling every peak (the highest rises to 8,071 feet above sea level). The easiest option is to leave your car at the Ngong Town entrance and pick up a ranger to guide your walk. Be sure to bring a picnic—the satisfaction of reaching the final peak is best celebrated by sprawling out on a blanket, enjoying a sandwich, and soaking in the views extending out from all sides.

At Forage, a two-plus-hour tasting menu is built around trout roe, wild mountain grass, Siberian elm seed pods, and other ingredients foraged within a 500-mile radius. $87, plus $45 for wine pairings. HOW TO SCORE A TABLE: The wait for reservations is around two months. Call on a weeknight and there’s a good chance you can fill a cancellation. INSIDER TIP: This summer, cofounder Viet Pham will open a more casual restaurant called Ember and Ash that he says will “use lots of fire and a very technical, refined cooking style.” Book now. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

Northern Spain isn’t nearly as popular as the south among foreign visitors (if you discount the El Camino de Santiago), but for my money the north provides a more pleasurable experience. The mountainous terrain is spectacular, the food in every town we visited is splendid, the beer scene is surprisingly bubbly, and the quaint fishing villages, like quiet Comillas, provide respite from the hustle and bustle of big centers like Barca and Madrid. Comillas, scene here from the hills surrounding gorgeous Pontificial University, features an excellent beach, dozens of neat cafes in an ancient town center, and El Capricho, a building designed by famed Antoni Gaudí.

It’s a weekend ritual for my cousin and his friends to pop into either The Loading Bay or Origins Roast right next door for breakfast. With a gorgeous view of the mountain, both cafés have coffee to die for and stellar food. This particular beauty of a breakfast was from The Loading Bay; banana topped with walnuts accompanied with creme fraiche, served on top of toasted rye and drizzled with honey. Both venues are open for breakfast and lunch; the Loading Bay is also open for burger night, on Thursdays, served with their famous fries (sprinkled with truffles).

It was Christmas Day, and the fastest route from Bakersfield to Morro Bay. The route that didn’t involve freeways. {We like that.} So we headed west on Highway 58, through the otherworldly power stations and desolate cotton fields of Rosedale and then up and up and up til we could gaze out over the cold green hills. The winter-dry grass waved in a bitter wind, snow dusted across distant mountain tops. We danced in place, to keep from freezing. A remote and winding road, this one reminds you that even central California has hidden pockets, little spaces where you might, maybe, just vanish.