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Rue Saint Paul is the oldest, the most popular, and the most iconic of Old Montreal streets. It was Montreal’s main thoroughfare in the 18th and 19th centuries, and although it doesn’t hold the same strategic importance today, it’s still at the core of Montreal’s destinations. Despite the tourist shops filled with souvenirs like moose-shaped shot glasses and maple-syrup everything, Saint-Paul Street still holds the grandeur it had back in the day, thanks to its stunning architecture. Ignore the shops and look up, admire the details of the windows and roof lines—to see what the street really is about. This street is ideal for a romantic, dimly lit, post-dinner stroll.

The Carré Saint-Louis (also known as St. Louis Square) is one of Montréal’s most important literary streetscapes. Famed Québecois poets Émile Nelligan and Gaston Miron called this home. Brightly painted Victorian/Second Empire graystone rowhouses line the square—one of the best leafy spaces in the city. (It’s been called “the closest thing to a European neighborhood square you’ll find this side of the Atlantic” by the Project for Public Spaces.) A few blocks away is the fabled Schwartz’s Deli. Grab a “smoked meat” to go, then come here to chow down by the fountain, surrounded by trees and 19th-century façades. (The nearest subway is Sherbrooke station on the Orange Line.)

The minute you walk into the Hotel St-Martin Montreal, you’ll know it’s something special. You’ll notice the warm welcome, the “at-your-service” attitude, and the gorgeous decor. The hotel, despite a successful recent history, began controversially. It’s built where a legendary smoked-meat restaurant once stood. Mind you, the restaurant had been closed for several months before it was destroyed and upgraded into a 4-star hotel, but many locals held on to the thought that it was intrinsic to the Montreal identity and shouldn’t have been replaced, even though the building was rapidly decaying. To those folks I would say: Spend a night at the St-Martin, and see for yourself. As a Montrealer, I say that it was good for the city. The hotel’s restaurant, L’Aromate, can get quite busy at lunch and during happy hour, which proves the menu is as delightful as the ambience. And the brunches are particularly tasty.

Architect Moshe Safdie’s Habitat 67 apartment complex was built for Expo 67, a key moment in Montreal‘s emergence as one of the world’s cultural capitals. While many buildings from the late 60s haven’t fared well with time, Habitat 67 still achieves Safdie’s goal: demonstrating that contemporary housing projects can be original and appealing works that create a sense of community among their residents. For a public who had come to associate housing projects with off-putting towers set in windswept plazas, Habitat 67 was a revelation with its 354 prefabricated concrete blocks stacked to construct 146 units. Apartments here continue to be coveted and command a premium price. Habitat 67 is a little out of the way from most of the other sites you’ll likely visit, on a peninsula facing Old Montreal. Take a cab to get there and note that the complex is private property—you’ll be turned away by security if you try to enter but you can admire this modernist vision from the street.

There is perhaps some irony that one of the most distinctive contemporary buildings in the historic heart of Montréal is a showcase for some of the city’s oldest artifacts. The modern structure that houses this archaeology and history museum opened in 1992, to coincide with the 350th anniversary of the establishment of Montréal. The highlight is its crypt, where you can wander through the digs of the city’s 18th-century market. A new pavilion, “Where Montréal Began,” opened in 2017 on the occasion of the city’s 375th anniversary. Its display of artifacts emphasizes the spiritual traditions of both the French settlers and Québec’s Algonquin, Huron, and Iroquois peoples. Temporary exhibitions on subjects like hockey and the archives of Bell Telephone help bridge the gap between Montréal’s early history and the present day.

Bar Hidalgo 56 is probably one of my top three pintxo bars in the entire city. With a bar stacked full of equally delicious pintxos, a menu of hot pintxos that is incredibly varied and delicious, and an attention to product that you simply don’t find in other bars, Hidalgo 56 is worth a visit. Try the volcano of morcilla.

I dare you to visit Planet Modular and not leave with a stack of new notebooks, Japanese masking tape, or sparkly envelopes. It’s unequivocally a supplies haven for artists and crafty DIYers, and while I don’t fall into either of those categories, I’m a sucker for colored gel pens and stationery. One loop around this shop, and you’ll understand why Berlin ranks high in creative design.

Wandering around Rabat, trying to get to the waterfront, we stumbled upon this cemetery which turned out to be enormous and mysterious, with tombstones literally stacked upon one another and tumbling all the way down to the sea. Tens of thousands of beautifully engraved tombstones. I’d never seen anything like it before.

If you’re hoping to see all of Laguna in a short amount of time, hop on the free trolley, which runs in five neighborhoods during the week and along the Coast Highway on weekends. Hours vary by day and season, but are long enough to make the trolley a fun, convenient way to get around town. For special occasions from September through mid-June, you can even charter a trolley for a tour or a memorable ride to your event.

Opened in 2006, the Four Seasons Centre for Performing Arts right in the crux of downtown at Queen and University is a gorgeous forum for performances from the National Ballet of Canada and the Canadian Opera Company (COC). For those looking for a frugal experience, the COC holds free concerts most Tuesdays and Thursdays at noon, and some Wednesdays at noon or 5:30 p.m. in the Richard Bradshaw Amphitheatre. Though the National Ballet’s most famous performance is The Nutcracker, performed, of course, during the holiday season, the company also performs other family-pleasing ballets including Sleeping Beauty and Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland from time to time.

Tucked away on the second floor of a courtyard building in the residential Recoleta neighborhood, the shoe store Comme Il Faut is a magnet for tango dancers. Customers provide their shoe sizes to cheerful saleswomen, and stacks of shoeboxes—in every color and heel height—emerge from the back.

A true neighbourhood institution, this dépanneur – Quebec’s answer to the corner store – has such a loyal following that within months they had successfully boycotted a 7/11 type of chain store that opened up across from it. The reason for the following, other than the staff’s boundless charm, is because you’ll find anything you could ever dream of needing in a pinch in this store, and much more: they make sandwiches and take-away meals here that will put your momma’s packed lunches to shame.

Obladee is the only wine bar in downtown Halifax. The bar has a casual atmosphere with an ever changing wine menu and a few other select drinks like beer and cider if that is what you would prefer. They feature wine “flights” that pair three wines together for a reasonable price, as well as cheese and charcuterie that is locally sourced.

Marriott property, The Jay Hotel, was the most anticipated addition to the city’s hotel scene in 2023, transforming the brutalist building that formerly housed Le Méridien into a cozy and quiet retreat. Each of the 360 rooms and suites have warm, textured, and minimalist decor that evokes calm and serenity. Adding to the oasis vibes, are some seriously comfortable beds, blackout curtains, and mini bars stocked with local goodies, such as St. George in. If you can, book a room with a balcony (a rarity among the city’s hotels), and enjoy the impressive views of the Bay Bridge and nearby Transamerica Tower.

Up in the Andersonville neighborhood, home of many an antique store, Brownstone Antiques holds a primo spot on Clark Street just down the street from the Swedish diner, Svea. It’s more of a junk store than an antique store with a crowded jumble of antique furniture, piles of vintage jewelry, stacks of paintings and odds and ends on every surface. It’s a little dusty and a lot interesting.