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In early April, I spent a week on a yoga retreat at Amansala in Tulum, Mexico. We had four hours of yoga and Pilates practice a day, and I spent the rest of my time on the beach, swimming in the ocean, reading books (I finished Gabrielle Hamilton’s excellent memoir, Blood, Bones, and Butter), drinking coconut juice, and snacking on delicious homemade tortillas, salad, salsas, and guacamole. At night we ventured out to explore, and discovered a wonderful new open-air restaurant called Hartwood, where I wish I could eat every night.

San Diego foodies all swear by this Central Texas-style barbecue joint. If you’re dying to try it, get there close to when it opens (11:30 a.m. Mondays through Fridays, and 11 a.m. Saturday and Sunday), as lines can be long and the restaurant shuts when the meat runs out. Order pulled pork or Texas turkey either in a sandwich or by the pound, then pair it with sides like Peruvian white beans, coleslaw (traditional or spicy), and potato salad. On Sundays, the restaurant also does an Argentinean-style asado, complete with chorizo, skirt steak, blood sausage, and house-made chimichurri. The original North Park location is currently closed for renovations, but the larger El Cajon location, which also hosts live music, is open.

For traditional Mexican handicrafts, Mercado Coral Negro is the easiest place to find all your wares. Here you can purchase jewelry, mayan relics, and unique creations from all over the region. The most beautiful items are the embroidered garments created from local cotton and dyed using traditional methods.

Georgia O’Keeffe called the grouping of weathered rock outcroppings near Abiquiu “The White Place” and immortalized it in paintings. The land is so arid, and so little changes in New Mexico, that the location and signature V shape have survived. A great hike, close to Abiquiu. Cowboys and Aliens was also shot nearby!

Baja Beans Roasting Company purchases beans from a family farm in Puebla and roasts them in a vintage coffee roaster in Todos Santos. Order a latte to sip in the café’s garden patio, or buy a bag of beans to bring home. Baja Beans Roasting Company, 52/(01) 612-167-3139. This appeared in the March/April 2012 issue.

Cuatro Cienegas has got to be one of the coolest places on the planet earth! It is certainly not like any other place or ecosystem I have ever visited and I would have never imagined you could find paradise in the middle of the Chihuahuan desert. “Cuatro Cienegas” means “four marshes” in Spanish and at one point in history this place was a wetland. The pools, called pozas, are scattered throughout the desert around the town. Some of the pools are warm and some of them are freezing cold! They are a blast to swim and snorkel in! Cuatro Ciénegas is an official Mexican biological reserve because the ecosystem has unique fauna and flora that can’t be found any other place in the world! NASA stated that the biological reserve of Cuatro Cienegas could have strong links to discovering life on Mars, since the adaptability of bioforms in the region was unique in the world. How far out is that? Some refer to Cuatro Cienegas as the “Galapagos of Mexico”. Be sure you also check out the Gypsum Dunes that are also located here. This place is a geologist’s dream! I would recommend staying at Quinta Santa Cecilia during your visit, and although many of the pozas are mapped and marked you are better off hiring a local guide to take you to the best spots. Cecilia or the management of your hotel can assist here. The drug battles in this part of Mexico continue to dominate the press, but we did not feel unsafe during our visit here.

Perched high above Antigua in the little hamlet of El Hato, Earth Lodge is a true hidden gem. The view says it all: not one, but three volcanoes (Agua, Fuego and Acatenango) spill out beyond the borders of the city below. Whether you stay in the dorm rooms or in a cozy cabin for two, be sure to rise early so as to witness the world slowly awaken. As luck had it, my breakfast avocado smoothie (the lodge is also an avocado farm) was paired with a morning eruption from Fuego, the most tempestuous of the trio. Breathtaking, all around.

When U.S. school buses are decommissioned, they are reincarnated in Central America and given new life. Repainted and rechristened, they become tropical intercity transport worth taking. For travelers, a journey on one of these is an immersive Guatemalan experience as well as a nostalgic ride. For crossing international borders on land, many Centroamericanos ride on double-decker buses, from which you can look down on all the Panamerican Highway action; traveling from Guatemala through El Salvador and Honduras to Nicaragua, this was a typical scene, as we wondered, “are we there yet?”

The Dead Sea has deservedly become known as something of a spa destination, with visitors helping themselves to goopy masks of the local, mineral-rich mud for decades. For something slightly more luxurious, book an appointment at Zara Spa in the Mövenpick Resort. Done up in raw stone, elaborate tiles, and polished plaster, the five-star facility evokes the Jordanian desert combined with a Moroccan riad. It also boasts one of the widest range of treatments in the entire Middle East, plus expertly trained therapists to ease you into a truly relaxed state of mind. The traditional hammam is a particular delight, but be sure to also indulge in popular treatments like the black mud body wrap or the hot-and-cold-stone massage. When you book a service, you’ll also have access to the spa’s top-notch facilities, which include hydro, flotation, and infinity pools as well as a juice bar and state-of-the-art fitness center.

You might think of Vienna’s Zentralfriedhof (Central Cemetery) as a Mittteleuropa Walk of Fame. Some of the city’s most important figures are buried in this graveyard that opened in 1874, from Beethoven (his remains were moved here in 1888) to 1980s pop star Falco, with Brahms, Schubert, and Schoenberg in between. The cemetery, which measures almost one and a half square miles, has a section for Austria‘s presidents, and another for Sephardic Jews who came from the Ottoman Empire—the elaborate Alhambra-style Elias family mausoleum is especially impressive. Thanks to shady groves of maple and ash and a beautiful church constructed in the early-20th-century Jugendstil style, it is worth the effort to travel to Simmering, a neighborhood southeast of the city center—even if only for the bucolic setting.

With its carved arches, intricate tilework, and marble swaths, the scenic Palais Faraj feels like it’s from another time. Each room in the former palace is like a treasure chest of colorful rugs, stained glass details, and vibrant objets d’art; perhaps none are more enchanting than the library, with its arabesque and geometric patterns, though the lovely grounds, which are dotted with palm trees, rose bushes, and manicured hedges, are a close second thanks to their breathtaking views over the labyrinthine medina. Panoramic vistas also unfold from the hotel’s two restaurants, which serve Fassi specialties such as pigeon pastillas—try making them for yourself during an on-site cooking class. Other highlights include a spa with a traditional hammam and a courtyard pool for afternoon dips. As for the guest rooms, the hotel’s 25 suites are cloaked in the same elaborate tiling and carvings but stocked with mod cons like free minibars and Nespresso machines.

The Aubrey sits at the edge of Barrio Bellavista, a few steps from Santiago’s bottle-green 1925 funicular (which takes visitors up to Cerro San Cristóbal) and just below the zoo (sometimes guests can hear the animals when they’re lying by the pool). Open since 2010, this 15-bedroom boutique hotel is housed between two 1920s mansions built by the same architect. The larger of the two houses once belonged to famed Chilean railway magnate Domingo Durán. Today, the hotel is owned by a Brit and an Aussie who spent $3 million and several years transforming it into its current state.

The bedrooms are split between the two mansions, and there’s also an outside block housing a few pool suites. A cobbled terrace runs between the restaurant and piano bar. The interiors are inspired by the early 20th-century art deco movement and feature statement art deco furniture, printed fabrics, and elaborate wallpaper.

Charleston’s French Quarter didn’t earn its title until the 1970s, when a group of preservationists started touting the area’s historic concentration of French Huguenots to protect buildings in danger of demolition. Opened in 2002, the French Quarter Inn took its neighborhood’s name and used it as inspiration for the hotel’s opulent decor and signature services. Guests arrive to an atrium with an elaborate wrought-iron staircase that rises in a spiral from the ground level and is topped with a large skylight. Champagne awaits guests upon check-in, and the rooms are decorated in vibrant shades of red, gold, and black, with toile bedspreads and damask upholstered furniture.

While it may not have the historic character of many Charleston properties, the French Quarter Inn provides all the amenities travelers could require: a continental breakfast each morning, bike rentals for cruising around town, and nightly wine-and-cheese receptions.

Your introduction to Andaz Mayakoba begins with mangroves and a cenote, or at least an architectural tribute to these natural features of the Playa del Carmen landscape. The elegant pillars that support the towering porte cochere mimic the angled roots of the mangrove trees nearby. A tall passageway, lined with dark wood, leads to an open-sided lobby.

At the center of the lobby, aptly called El Sanctuario, a shallow circular pool reflects the sky through an opening in the ceiling above. The Andaz—which opened on the Mayakoba development in late 2016—has 214 guest rooms and suites, all in low buildings carefully placed on the delicate limestone crust of the peninsula. Some of the buildings surround pretty lagoons and offer easy access to the resort’s restaurants, Casa Amate, the fine-dining option, and Cocina Milagro, which serves three meals a day in a pavilionlike space overlooking the property’s pools.

A spa, fitness center, shop, and kids’ club are also an easy walk away. The balance of guest rooms are in a separate complex of buildings beside the beach. A clutch of umbrellas and lounge chairs on the white powdery sand before an impossibly blue sea presents a stunning picture. In the beachside portion of the resort, another pool and two casual restaurants, OllaTaco and OllaCeviche, add up to a slightly funkier vibe.

Guests are transported around the grounds by golf carts and are encouraged to use bikes parked everywhere. Lagoon boats make regular stops between the four resorts at Mayakoba, and guests are encouraged to take a daily cruise of the winding waterways with a naturalist guide. Andaz staff are young, attentive, and warm.

Colorful street-style murals, depicting animals and fish, splash across the buildings’ exterior walls. Inside the airy guest rooms, artfully tiled sections of floors and walls add fields of color and interest to an otherwise mild, sunny palette. Architect Ronald Zürcher has channeled the extraordinary local beauty—the light and darkness of the region’s beaches and jungles, the vivid pops of color of flowers and birds, the sacred hush of the cenote—and designed a gorgeous and intimate boutique resort.

Guests at this 13-room retreat in Costa Rica’s central highlands can tour the estate’s 36 acres of coffee fields. After the walk, try a “cupping,” or tasting, of the shade-grown organic blends. End with a soak in your suite’s jungle-view tub. From $250. (305) 395-3042


After a couple days resting up at The Retreat Costa Rica, I was off on my next adventure. Finca Rosa Blanca, which doubles as a boutique hotel and coffee plantation, proved the perfect setting for exploration both near and far. I stayed in the La Guaria junior suite—each has it’s own name—this one named after a local flower. Having come from New York where apartments are cramped, I was pleasantly surprised by the spacious layout of the villa. The entrance leads into a circular area, with sky lights above that form a sort of dome. There’s a separate kitchen and dining area, a bathroom complete with a whirlpool, and a separate bedroom featuring a kingsize bed. My favorite part of La Guaria were the two balconies. There’s a small one right off of the bedroom, where I’d usually listen to the rain falling hard against the roof in the afternoon. In the mornings and again in the evenings, I’d make myself a cup of coffee and catch up on my emails outside on the larger terrace. It overlooks a large grass farm, as well as the flowers that grow on the property.


Speaking of coffee, Finca Rosa Blanca, is also a coffee plantation. On my first full day at the hotel, I signed up for their guided coffee tour, where I learned the ins and outs of coffee-making in Costa Rica—things like how Arabic coffee is the only type of coffee grown here and how the blonder the roast, the more caffeine it has; I always assumed the opposite. Our tour group was small but we had a guest appearance by the finca’s two adopted dogs—aptly named Finca and Rosa. It’s a mother and daughter, and I loved watching them run around the plantation and play in the little waterfall separating one bank from the other. The second part of the tour was an actual coffee tasting, where we sampled a “good” cup of coffee and an “over roasted” cup. I was surprised how many flavors and aromas I could pick up despite always claiming that I have a poor sense of smell...and silently resolved to skip the milk and sugar next time.


As for the food and lounge areas, there are some really creative spots. The El Tigre Vestido restaurant has both outdoor and indoor seating; I mostly ate in their open-air sections but definitely took advantage of the fire crackling in the evenings. It can get a little chilly there at night. On my last full day at Finca Rosa Blanca, I went all out. First up was a scenic (and very uncrowded) hike to Barva volcano. I learned that, while a national park, it’s one of Costa Rica’s hidden secrets. There were few tourists along our path, allowing us to feel like we had wandered into an enchanted forest out of a story book. Back at the finca, I indulged at their spa, with their Pura Vida Coffee Detox Package: a Swedish full-body massage, a coffee and chocolate body scrub and a refreshing facial. After a challenging hike that morning, it was just what the doctor ordered. Fun fact: There’s some great art here and I’m not just talking about the murals on the walls (there are some super colorful ones at the pool); One of the owners, Glenn, is an artist by trade and he designed all the metal work seek throughout the property, right here on-site.