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I was on a cruise in Italy when I heard about this place. I’d mentioned that I was heading to Portland, and a fellow cruiser, a native of the town, had told me that if they had one recommendation it would be the ice cream at Salt and Straw.

What she didn’t tell me was that the flavors are not your usual vanilla, chocolate, and raspberry ripple. In fact, the first thing I tasted at Salt and Straw was their new “Bollywood” recipe, which included carrot custard and cardamom, which sounds almost sensible when you considered that some of their most popular flavors include prosciutto and goat cheese.

There was a huge line, even on a Friday mid-afternoon, but it was worth it for the almond brittle with salted ganache, not to mention the apple pie with real chunks of cheddar cheese. They’re doing their best to “Keep Portland Weird” here...and it tastes good.

Arriving alone and hungry in the Philippines, I checked into my hotel and immediately asked for a dinner recommendation. After some thought by the staff, I was directed to Zubuchon for some authentic Filipino food; but not just any food: Lechon. And not even just lechon, but what Anthony Bourdain suggested is the “best pig...ever.” This perfectly prepared pig keeps its moisture generously covered and insulated with a layer of pork belly fat. Unfortunately, for some reason, I was not able to purchase a piece of pork less than ½ kilo. So, that is what I ordered. Perhaps I should have given the menu a closer look and ordered from the selection of “Fast Meals” that appear to be better suited for one. Before I ran off with my ½ kilo of pig, the server suggested I also try a Kamias Shake which paired with the pork better than any wine pairing I have had with a meal! The tart, but not quite sour, beverage brought out all the nuances of the lechon. Back at my hotel, I was unable to stop myself from eating all ½ kilo of meat - and heading to bed that evening completely stuffed. Try the lechon in the Philippines. And make sure you have Zubuchon at least once!

The St. George, opened in 2007, was recently purchased and renovated by Indigo, an international luxury hotel chain. The new owners have taken care to preserve the unique elements of the original structure, including an exterior of roughly hewn travertine. These white limestone blocks were laid in the 16^th century by Bramante; Pope Julius II commissioned the architect to build the Palace of Justice on his newly laid Via Giulia. Bramante never completed the project, but part of the building has been adapted into the current structure. Inside, the surfaces are smooth-polished limestone punctuated with contemporary art. Throughout, the decor blends modern design with classic details, often in the form of art pieces inspired by the very Renaissance masters who once strolled the cobblestones outside, so many centuries ago.

After a day traversing the city, unwind Roman-style, in the St. George’s subterranean spa. Never mind that they call the spa facilities a Turkish bath; the hot and cold bathing ritual was perfected by the ancient Romans not far from the hotel itself. After indulging in spa treatments, head to the rooftop bar for drinks and views of the river to Trastevere.

The Flying Biscuit, owned by waitress and chef Delia Champion and Indigo Girls member Emily Saliers, opened in 1993 and since then has expanded its original Candler Park location and franchised all around town. At least 5,000 of their famous biscuits are made every day at each location. As you can tell, those biscuits are the main attraction. They’re sweeter than the standard biscuit and are served with cranberry apple butter. Also recommended: an omelet with a side of their “creamy dreamy” grits or the Eggstra-Ordinary Breakfast, pictured here.

J. Paul Getty’s original museum is as much about the transporting setting as it is about the pieces inside. When the billionaire oil tycoon decided to open a museum for his extensive collection of antiquities in 1974, he modeled it after an ancient Roman villa that had been buried by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. The estate’s painted ceilings, Roman columns, and marble floors feel at one with the 44,000-strong collection of Etruscan, Greek, and Roman pieces (don’t miss the bronze statue of Herakles, circa 300 B.C.E.). When you stand amid the 64-acre ground’s bronze statues, frescoes, and reflecting pool, the expansive view of the Pacific Ocean offers one of the few clues that you’re in California. A regular stream of theater performances, readings, and academic talks in the open-air amphitheater keeps things heady day and night. Pro tip: Although it’s free, entrance to the Getty Villa requires an advance, timed-entry ticket, bookable online. Don’t miss the 40-minute tours on Thursdays and Saturdays of the four Roman gardens, which cover a fascinating array of mythology and history.

The Museo Soumaya, financed by Carlos Slim, the richest man in Mexico, has the ambitions of the Guggenheim Bilbao from the outside. It’s a stunning building whose sweeping, soaring curves couldn’t help but make it an instant landmark near Polanco, one of Mexico City‘s ritziest neighborhoods. Inside, the museum recalls the Guggenheim New York, with galleries off of a ramp which spirals down (or up) the building. Unfortunately the museum’s permanent collection isn’t as impressive as those at either Guggenheim. The Soumaya does have some strengths—one of the world’s largest collection of Rodins and some especially noteworthy colonial Mexican works—but it can feel hit or miss, with many undistinguished pieces. Slim’s museum is free, however, so you won’t regret paying admission even if you just pass through quickly to take in the building itself and some highlights.

When I stepped into the grand lobby of Québec’s Le Château Montebello, I felt like I was entering Paul Bunyan’s living room. Giant timbers braced a three-story-high ceiling, and a massive fireplace in the center radiated warmth in all directions. After checking in, I joined the guests gathered around the six-sided hearth and sank into a leather club chair. I spent the rest of the day by the fire, sipping hot toddies and napping, as the comfort of the crackling flames sent me and the other fireside dozers snuggling deeper into our cushions. I had come to ski some of the 65,000 acres of wooded backcountry that neighbor the resort, but the château was so welcoming, I found it hard to leave.


Often described as the world’s largest log cabin, the lodge and two other main buildings were constructed in 1930 from 10,000 red cedar logs and 500,000 handmade wooden shingles. The houses and the vast surrounding forests were long owned by the politically prominent Papineau family, and until 1970, the estate remained a private nature retreat for Canada’s upper class. As I walked through the château’s halls, the intricately carved banisters and exposed beams reminded me of the great western lodges in the U.S. national parks—only without any grumpy tourists demanding to know where the animals are.

In the guest rooms, deluxe amenities such as flat-screen TVs and rain-dome showerheads upstaged anything found in Yellowstone or Yosemite. Despite the modern perks, rawhide lampshades and other rustic details helped my suite retain its frontier appeal. When I got up to pull the plaid drapes closed that night, I watched a horse-drawn sleigh pass by, glowing in the moonlight against the dark ribbon of the frozen Ottawa River.

Without fresh snow to ski the next morning, I was left to explore the lodge’s other activities. I opted out of getting scrubbed with maple sugar at the spa or unsuccessfully flirting with French-Canadian women by the fire, and instead devoted the day to learning the inscrutable rules of curling. The château has an indoor ice rink dedicated to the sport, a national favorite that’s best described as a combination of shuffleboard and falling down a lot. My instructor was Henri, a kindly sexagenarian who, like many in Québec’s western Outaouais region, seemed more comfortable speaking French than English. As it turns out, kindly reassurance sounds the same in either language. But as my backside repeatedly hit the ice, Henri’s patient polyglot insistence that I was doing “une belle job” grew progressively less convincing.

After my rough-and-tumble day, I dined in the white-tablecloth Aux Chantignoles restaurant. Québecois cuisine dominates the menu, and I followed a dinner of tender venison osso buco with a slice of Québec’s famously sweet and jiggly sugar pie—think pecan pie sans pecans. Snow fell just in time for me to ski through the nearby forest on my last day. I spent a long afternoon there, gliding among stands of birch, pine, and spruce in the rolling Laurentian Highlands. Now and again, I paused to admire one of the countless frozen lakes, their smooth surfaces dotted with tracks left by moose and white-tailed deer. I skied in the silent wilderness until just after sunset. As the scent of a wood fire began to tickle my nose, I grew eager to cozy up by the hearth again. I turned back toward the château’s stone chimney, its rising plume of smoke signaling for my return.
This appeared in the November/December 2010 issue.

Amanzoe was one of the first ultra-luxury resorts by a global brand in Greece when it opened back in 2012 in pretty Porto Heli, on the east coast of the Peloponnese. Since then, it has become a much-loved retreat with monumental architecture, all soaring columns and vast expanses of marble that call to mind Greece’s ancient heritage sites.


The resort’s beach club has four pools, cabanas, a Japanese restaurant, and a seaside spa, and it’s from here that water sports and island-hopping cruises set sail. Lavish guest rooms are divided into either pavilion accommodations or larger villas, all with private pools. The most lavish of all is the Ed Tuttle- and Marios Angelopoulos-designed Villa 20, which doubled as Miles Bron’s island home in British murder mystery Glass Onion; it includes 9 bedrooms, 11 pools, a private spa, 2 barbecue areas, and its own Greek taverna.

Creamy travertine floors and castle brick walls of pearl-stone tiles fuse with Asian antiques and dark teak furniture in the Caribbean-meets-Indonesian design at Villa Balinese, on an elevated crescent fronting Providenciales south shore. From the original local art to the antique Moroccan vases and curved bamboo chairs, it makes a bold and seductive statement throughout -- and best of all, every piece of furniture in this villa rental is hand-picked and meticulously placed by its owners. With just three bedrooms, but 4,200-sq-ft of space and 30-foot vaulted ceilings, it’s impossible not to be transfixed by the Alice-in-Wonderland dimensions and sexy stark vibe encountered here. Entering the grand entrance foyer, the eye is drawn almost immediately to the impressive sunken living room, where a wall of floor-to-ceiling glass windows slides open onto a grand marble pool terrace with panoramic ocean views. The infinity pool running the length of the house was constructed with emerald-colored tiles, creating a vibrant contrast with the turquoise-hued sea it disappears into. A 50" plasma TV, which can be raised with a remote click from a recessed hiding place and swiveled to face the pool, is another one-of-a-kind design example. There is no beach access on-site, but the crystal-clear sea running parallel to the property can be reached via a ladder dock. Please note that children under 12 are not allowed, but this property works great for couples or older families.

Why we love it: A stylish stay that brings Miami glam to Clearwater Beach

The Highlights:
- Ocean views from nearly every guest room
- A stunning, zero-entry pool overlooking the beach
- A gorgeous art collection with original pieces by Christopher Still

The Review:
A sleek high-rise overlooking Clearwater Beach, Opal Sands Resort stands out for its modern architecture and stylish vibe. Here, everything from the guest rooms to the restaurants to the events venues feature sweeping views of the Gulf of Mexico, putting guests squarely in a beach frame of mind. The 230 rooms and suites feature generously sized layouts, complete with deluxe bedding, spa-style bathrooms, and private balconies framing Clearwater’s famous sunsets, while common spaces come decorated with an impressive art collection both created and curated by Floridian master Christopher Still.

When not taking in the vistas, guests can sunbathe by the zero-entry pool and hot tub, or rent a beach chair or cabana and head down to Clearwater Beach. Also available are a waterfront fitness center, a full-service spa, complimentary bicycle rentals, and a corn hole toss on the event lawn. There are even four dining outlets on site, from Sea-Guini (for freshly caught seafood and handmade pastas) to the Sandbar (for cocktails and live music right on the beach).

Located on Fleming Street in the heart of Old Town Key West, the Marquesa has everything you might expect from a romantic coastal-Florida retreat. Wide porches overlook lush gardens and a bijou pool at the center of the complex, and brick paths shaded by large palms and tropical foliage give the 1884 Greek Revival–style property a secret hideaway feel. It’s understandable if you want to hole up in the guest rooms, which reside in traditional clapboard conch houses and are furnished with an eclectic collection of wood pieces sourced from around the world. In 2018, Marquesa 4-1-4 opened across the street, featuring a new compound of three buildings around a central swimming pool and courtyard. After a day spent exploring nearby Duval Street, make your way back to Café Marquesa, which is perennially packed with locals and visitors enjoying fresh seafood and an inventive menu.

A departure from the pastel villas that dominate the Amalfi Coast, Parco dei Principi is a modernist edifice enveloped in tropical gardens and set on the outskirts of Sorrento. The work of famed Italian architect and designer Gio Ponti, the boxy white structure bears his signature at every turn, from the furniture and fixtures down to the blue-and-white floor tiles (each of the 96 guest rooms features a different pattern). Beyond the eye-catching geometry, accommodations are minimalist in style, featuring midcentury chairs and crisp white beds. Even the saltwater pool looks like an art piece, its angularity punctuated by a diving board that sits swanlike above the water. Tunnels cut through the cliffside lead to a private beach, where an alfresco restaurant on the waterside deck serves up fresh-caught seafood in the summer. For a bird’s-eye view of the scene, opt instead for the panoramic vistas from the terrace of the hotel’s Gio Ponti restaurant.

Anchoring a $1.2 billion mixed-use development, the 23-story Palace Hotel sits opposite the ancient Otemon Gate of Edo Castle and was designed to juxtapose tranquil green space and vibrant concrete jungle, with all guestrooms featuring views of the Imperial Palace’s gardens and moats; most have open-style bathrooms, while more than half feature terraces and balconies, a rarity in Tokyo. Natural motifs—from the leaf-shaped counter and shadowy outlines of trees on the walls of Bar Lounge Privé to the hand-tufted, mossy-hued carpets in the lobby—reinforce the link to the outdoors. The hotel’s artwork brings to light the work of Japanese contemporary artists, with about 1,000 paintings and watercolor, glass, metal, and other pieces on display.

With just 57 rooms, the smallest Four Seasons in the world offers outsize luxury on arrival. Guests approaching by rail at nearby Tokyo Station—the terminal for Shinkansen, Narita Express, and all major bullet trains—can expect a memorable welcome: staff greet visitors on the platform and personally escort them to the property, on seven floors of the 31-story Pacific Century Place Marunouchi Tower. Rooms are outfitted in the modern, minimalist decor the brand is known for and mix wood, stone, and contemporary features like 3-D televisions and floor-to-ceiling windows. Head to MOTIF for French-Japanese fusion cuisine overlooking the city’s neon skyscrapers. If you prefer one-of-a-kind experiences, soak in the spa’s traditional onsen bath, hop on a chef-led tour of the Tsukiji Fish Market at dawn, or make your own piece of Japanese lacquer art in nearby Ginza.

Once Amsterdam’s main public library, the Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht looks like a 1970s block on the outside. But inside, renowned Dutch designer Marcel Wanders has transformed the space into a whimsical and grown-up homage to Alice in Wonderland. Decorated with oversized furnishings (including Wanders’ signature Tulip chairs and modern twists on chandeliers), Delft blue tilework and brocade upholstery (references to historic Dutch style), and avant-garde artwork, the design hotel hardly feels like part of a chain, even one as hip as the Andaz. Instead, with its serene herb garden full of quirky topiaries, a checkerboard mural, and chess-piece statues, the canalside hotel channels a fresh take on Amsterdam. But don’t worry, authentic Amsterdam is still out there—take the free bicycles for a spin along the waterways, and know that free snacks await you back in your room.