Spend a Long Weekend in This City for Gothic Catacombs, Mexican Ballet, and the Best Emerging Food in Mexico

As a host city of the World Cup, Guadalajara is ready to fiesta this summer.
Large rectangular fountain, with Hospicio Cabañas in background

Guadalajara’s historic center sparkles all year round.

Photo by VG Foto/Shutterstock

In this Article

Although it’s Mexico’s second biggest city and the birthplace of tequila and mariachi, Guadalajara is often overlooked by tourists in favor of pyramids or sandy beaches. But the capital of Jalisco has so much deep (and spicy) flavor to offer—and is attracting attention this year as a host city for the 2026 World Cup.

I grew up among Guadalajara’s purple jacarandas that bloom in early spring. As a child, I marveled at the Jarabe Tapatío dancers, twirling around in colorful dresses, and I sang along with the live bands playing in the plaza. And now, as an adult, I’ve come to adore the ceramic museum, Folkloric Ballet, bars celebrating agave and fermented fruits, and restaurants serving sweetbread tacos and spicy ricotta flan.

“Guadalajara stands out thanks to its clear identity and its gastronomic scene, which is consciously maturing,” chefs Oscar Segura and Xryws Ruelas Díaz of Xokol, recognized as two of the best emerging chefs in the country by Gourmet de Mexico, wrote in an email to Afar. “That’s why the city’s local cuisine is finding a fertile ground on a national and even international level.”

Here’s how to spend four days eating, sightseeing, and dancing your way through Guadalajara.

 


 

Day 1: Wander around the city center

White gallery with wood floor and five large abstract paintings the Hospicio Cabanas

Built with nontraditional design, the Hospicio Cabanas now holds masterpieces of Mexican art.

Photo by Kit Leong/Shutterstock

Where to eat
Sights + activities

Morning: A baroque former convent + countryside flavors

Start your trip at Mercado IV Centenario. Among the vegetable stalls and piñata shops, you’ll find Yunaites, a restaurant hidden behind exposed concrete walls. Sample what chef Fabián Delgado calls “menjurjes pueblerinos” (country concoctions), like the zucchini blossom quesadilla with ashes and jocoque (similar to yogurt) or the green pipián (a pumpkin seed–based sauce) taco with sour butter.

After breakfast, just 15 minutes away by foot, you’ll find the Ex Convento del Carmen. This former priory is now an art gallery and cultural hub with exhibitions, workshops, and performances.

Afternoon: Tejuino + the historic city center

Although Guadalajara has some excellent coffee shops, most locals know that the best way to face the warmest months is with a cup of tejuino. This pre-Hispanic drink is prepared with fermented corn, lime, salt, chilies, and, in the best cases, a scoop of lemon sorbet. There are many stalls around the city, but one of the best is the Tejuino y Nieve de Garrafa la Providencia in Alcalde Avenue, 170-A.

Buy a cup and then wander around the city’s Centro Histórico. Admire the neoclassical Metropolitan Cathedral of Guadalajara, walk around the Rotonda de los Jalisciences Ilustres (a stone monument honoring some of the state’s most distinguished people), and venture inside the Hospicio Cabañas, a UNESCO World Heritage site that was originally built as a care center for disadvantaged people and children, but now hosts some of the best art displays in the city.

Stop at Tortas Ahogadas José, el de la Bicicleta for lunch. Chefs Ruelas Díaz and Segundo recommend pairing the raw salsa torta with a bean crispy taco for the ultimate Tapatío experience.

Evening: Degollado Theatre + a saucy shrimp sandwich

You could enjoy a classical concert or renowned play at the Teatro Degollado, but my personal recommendation is the Folkloric Ballet, which moves away from traditional Western ballet to offer more color and Mexican tradition.

For dinner, treat yourself to a tuna tostada or a shrimp lonche bañado (a sauce-drenched sandwich) at Bienvenido Pariente. The owners of this seafood eatery donate part of their profits to FM4, a local charity that helps Central American migrants on their journey through Mexico.

 


 

Day 2: Explore Chapultepec, the social epicenter of Guadalajara

Several swing dancers on broad pavement of Chapultepec, with trees and fountain in background

There’s always dancing in the street on Paseo Chapultepec.

Photo by NickyRedl/Shutterstock

Where to eat
Sights + activities

Morning: Mercado de Abastos

Every great restaurant in the city starts the day by shopping in the Mercado de Abastos, and you should too. Big, chaotic, and unpretentious, this industrial market supplies fruits, vegetables, and meat to most of the businesses in the capital. However, what most guidebooks won’t tell you is that it also houses a fair share of eateries and fondas where you can sample some of the most iconic delicacies of Guadalajara.

Menudería Chela is a famous stall, offering menudo, its star dish, which consists of a beef tripe in a spicy chili broth. The enfrijoladas (rolled tortillas stuffed with cheese and covered in a bean sauce) are the less daring, yet equally delicious option. Then head across the hallway to one of the many fruterías, and order a mamey smoothie, made from the Central American fruit.

Afternoon: Casa Franco + bites in Colonia Americana

After breakfast, venture through the cobbled streets and past the hip bars of Colonia Americana, one of the city’s most vibrant neighborhoods. This is the ultimate third place—a social space offering respite from work or home—of the city, bustling with cafés, galleries, and independent shops. Start your leisurely stroll with a flat white or a cold brew at Biolento Café, then walk a few blocks to Casa Franco. This house, designed by the renowned Mexican architect Luis Barragán, offers a masterful example of modernist style, and it features several art exhibitions and events year-round.

Make a quick stop at Pal Real to snack on the famous pork belly lonche (a Jalisco-style sub sandwich) or shrimp aguachile. If you have space, don’t miss its requesón (ricotta) flan, but be careful— it’s got a bit of spice.

Finish your afternoon with a visit to one of the most emblematic churches of the city, the Expiatorio Temple. This ode to Gothic splendor was an early inspiration for horror filmmaker Guillermo del Toro. Venture down its catacombs to bask in its spooky interiors and feel like you’ve been transported into a dark fantasy movie.

Evening: Dancing in Paseo Chapultepec + chicharrón tacos

Work up your appetite by joining a free outdoor dance class on Paseo Chapultepec, one of Guadalajara’s most popular pedestrian streets. Several social collectives like Chapulatino or Salsa x las Calles organize free salsa, cumbia, and bachata lessons throughout the week.

Get a pick-me-up at Mecenas, a trendy, moody cocktail bar that also offers revamped Mexican street dishes. Pair its signature Monje cocktail, which mixes tepache (a fermented pineapple drink) and Green Chartreuse, with a couple of marlin chicharrón tacos.

 


 

Day 3: Stroll the galleries and workshops of Tlaquepaque

Overhead view of several plates of food and bouquet of flowers (L): exterior of Alcalde restaurant, with greenery partly blocking view

Eat one of the best meals in Mexico at Alcalde.

Photo by María Laura Castro

Where to eat
Sights + activities

Morning: Artisanal ice cream + a ceramic museum

After a quick Naranja Brew (a mix of orange juice and cold brew) at the outdoor Café Luna Pachuli, spend a few hours at the Museo Regional de la Cerámica, which has many rooms, patios, and arched hallways filled with some of the most beautiful ceramic sculptures and art pieces of the region.

Walk around the corner to order a scoop of artisanal sorbet at Nieves de garrafa Chapalita, which offers cool flavors like jalapeño, avocado, corn, pine nut, lime and chia, or Day of the Dead bread.

Afternoon: Andador Tlaquepaque + a fairy-tale lunch

For authentic Mexican crafts, browse the street stalls in Tlaquepaque, where you can barter for a beaded bracelet or clay tortillero (tortilla holder). If you want specialty pieces, try the Sergio Bustamante Art Gallery or the Paco Padilla crockery workshop.

Most people would recommend El Parián or El Abajeño for lunch (both classic options), but if you want ambience, opt for Restaurante Casa Luna. The indoor trees and heart-shape glass lanterns will make you feel like you’ve been transported to a Mexican fairy tale, sometimes with live music or a folkloric dance. Enjoy a queso fundido (a sort of Mexican fondue) or a beef molcajete (a traditional Mexican stone mortar filled with sizzling beef and vegetables). And be wary of the tequila cazuelas; they seem harmless, but they’ll knock you over in just a few sips.

Evening: Modern Mexican food and agave cocktails

Alcalde is Guadalajara’s culinary royalty. Named as one of the 50 best restaurants in Latin America, Alcalde offers an outstanding selection of modernized Mexican classics. Its menu changes seasonally, with examples like sweetbread tacos and arroz con leche topped with milk flakes.

To end the night, indulge in a ciruela sour at El Gallo Altanero. Paying homage to blue agave, this dimly lit, cozy bar offers new drink menus every day. And ask the mixologist for recommendations on indie tequilas.

 


 

Day 4: Enjoy nature walks and immersive dinning experiences

Modern concrete sculpture with curved shapes surrounded by trees in park

Bosque de los Colomos is full of trees, art, and leafy pathways.

Photo by ehudson/Shutterstock

Where to eat
Sights + activities
  • Stroll in El Bosque de los Colomos
  • Browse shops in Santa Tere

Morning: Bosque de los Colomos + a smoky breakfast

Take a break from the urban scene by strolling around El Bosque de los Colomos. This luscious green space is considered one of the lungs of the city and offers open-air exercise areas and horseback rides.

Then have breakfast at Nikolaza, Cocina de Humo, where most dishes are infused with woodfire smoke. Start with a traditional pan dulce (sweet pastry) and café de olla with Rompope (a traditional Mexican spiced coffee mixed with an egg-based alcoholic drink, similar to eggnog). But don’t leave without trying the pregnant tortilla, a handmade flat bread stuffed with an egg and covered with a meaty stew, refried beans, and spicy salsa.

Afternoon: Santa Tere + trotter tostada

Although it often goes under the radar (since it’s not as flashy as Chapultepec or Providencia), the Santa Tere neighborhood has dozens of markets, shops, and cafés. The streets here harbor old school haberdashery shops, small churches, and diverse arts and craft supplies.

After browsing, stop for a coffee at Caligari Café or a cacao drink at Xofía Xocolatería. For lunch, chefs Ruelas Díaz and Segundo recommend Tostadas Don Ramón in the neighborhood. “You must order the boneless trotter tostada or the ear one. They’re classics for a reason,” they wrote.

Evening: Dinner at Xokol

The best way to end your journey in Guadalajara is at Xokol, which celebrates corn and heritage around a communal table. With the open kitchen design, head chefs Oscar Segura and Xryws Ruelas Díaz wrote, “We want to involve our guests in every step of the experience, explaining our processes, ingredients and traceability, but always respecting their space so they can connect from a sensory-driven and emotional point of view.”

Although the menu changes seasonally, the tortillas—printed with an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe—are offered year round, served with spicy salsa and house-made crème fraîche. If available, order the oysters, which are often prepared with bone marrow, beef cheeks, and butter, or as a garnish for the house micheladas. And don’t miss the glass of corn horchata with a shot of mezcal.

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Where to stay: Guadalajara hotels

Hotels in Guadalajara range from historic mansions to ultra-modern boutiques. Our two top picks for this itinerary would be:

This restored 1848 architectural gem is within walking distance from the city center’s main attractions. Admire its iconic red-tiled floors, courtyard surrounded by stone columns and arches, and rooftop lounge with views of the cathedral. Book the master suite to enjoy a private hot tub and retractable roof to watch the night sky.
In the heart of the cool Colonia Americana neighborhood, Casa Habita features modernized art deco-style rooms and spectacular urban views. Borrow a bike or arrange a local tour with the concierge, then unwind in the hotel’s luxurious spa or sip a cold Aperol at the pool bar.

Daniela Castillo is a Mexican writer and illustrator based in London. Her work focuses on travel, food, language, and identity. Her bylines have appeared in Atlas Obscura, Culture Trip, The Scottish BPOC Writers Network Blog, and Matador Network.
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