See Japan’s Quieter Side on This Locally Run Cruise

A recently launched Japanese cruise line is offering a more culturally immersive way to explore lesser-visited corners of Japan.
Colorful umbrellas form partial roof above retail street in Sasebo, with yellow bench in foreground nad pedestrians in distance

The coastal city of Sasebo on Japan’s Kyushu Island is among the hidden gems passengers will discover on Mitsui Ocean Cruises.

Photo by Camille San Vicente/Unsplash

Cruising in Japan isn’t exactly new. But a cruise line designed entirely around Japanese hospitality, culture, and domestic travel traditions still feels relatively novel for North American travelers.

Launched in late 2023, Japanese cruise line Mitsui Ocean Cruises positions itself differently than many international luxury cruise brands. Rather than emphasizing flashy onboard attractions or packed port schedules, the line leans heavily into what it calls funatabi or “beautiful encounters with Japan” and omotenashi, “heartfelt Japanese hospitality.” The result is slower itineraries, regionally rooted cuisine, and cultural programming that extends beyond shore excursions.

This spring, I sailed aboard the 458-guest Mitsui Ocean Fuji on the line’s “Petals & Ports” itinerary, a weeklong journey that departed Tokyo before heading south along Japan’s Pacific coastline to Ibusuki, a laid-back town at the southern tip of Kyushu known for its samurai history and for producing exceptional green tea. From there, the ship continued north to Sasebo, a naval port city near Nagasaki that served as a gateway to historic Hirado Castle and the centuries-old porcelain traditions of Arita pottery.

The itinerary then crossed briefly into South Korea for a stop in Busan during cherry blossom season before returning to Japan with a final brief call in Kobe, a cosmopolitan city, and then sailing back to Tokyo. The route focused less on Japan’s marquee destinations and instead on smaller municipalities and regional experiences that invite guests to “travel like a local,” to places international travelers might never otherwise reach. Here’s what it was like.

Upper pool deck on cruise ship, with small swimming pool and two hot tubs

The 458-passenger Mitsui Ocean Fuji, formerly the Seabourn Odyssey, was refurbished and relaunched in December 2024.

Courtesy of Mitsui Ocean Cruises

The ship

Mitsui Ocean Fuji itself strikes a noticeably calmer tone than many contemporary cruise ships. Boarding was highlighted by the soothing sounds of two violinists as we made our way down the atrium’s spiral staircase en route to our suite.

My husband and I stayed in a 314-square-foot Veranda suite, which included a private balcony, a split king bed (very common in Japan), sitting area, walk-in closet, soaking tub, glass-enclosed shower, and a Toto washlet bidet toilet. As someone who hasn’t cruised since I was a teenager stuck in an interior cabin with my parents, this suite felt enormous, with plenty of hidden spaces to store our suitcases without making the room feel cluttered. We were particularly thrilled with the dual sinks, allowing us to get ready for various activities simultaneously so we could stick to our schedules. And though we traveled with adapters, we found we didn’t need them in most cases as the rooms had both USB ports and North American–style outlets.

Two beds in beige Veranda Suite, with large window and glass door to small balcony

Elegant accommodations include Veranda Suites with balconies and double vanities.

Courtesy of Mitsui Ocean Cruises

Originally launched as the Seabourn Odyssey in 2009 before being acquired by Mitsui Ocean Cruises and relaunching in December 2024, the all-ocean-facing-suite vessel carries just 458 guests across 229 suites. That smaller scale became quite apparent during our rough start. The first 30 hours at sea coincided with a category two hurricane complete with high winds and enormous swells that had us downing Dramamine and green apples to fight our nausea. We later learned that May and late September are considered to be the best months for smooth seas in Japan, but the chance to see the cherry blossoms was too good to pass up.

The gloomy weather also impacted several outdoor amenities throughout the week. Pools, decks, and open-air spaces were often closed for our safety due to wind and rain, limiting how much guests could fully enjoy the ship itself during the sailing. On those days, small details—like slippers and robes, a tea kettle, deep soaking tub, and a partition to separate the bedroom from the living room (for when I wanted to nap and my husband wanted to watch a movie)—made the room feel especially well suited for longer itineraries. Complimentary self-service laundry facilities also came in very handy toward the end of the trip.

We did have access to wireless internet during the sailing, but it required some juggling between devices. Each passenger was only allowed to have one device connected to the Wi-Fi at a time, which for the average person on vacation probably wasn’t an issue at all. However for the person who may have to hop on a work call on their laptop, while looking up something on their phone, well, you’ll just have to adjust.

Dimly lit Hokusai Fine Dining restaurant on cruise ship, with large round dining tables with white tablecloths and place settings and brown leather club chairs

Elevated meals are served in the Hokusai Fine Dining restaurant.

Courtesy of Mitsui Ocean Cruises

The experience aboard: a focus on Japanese traditions

More than anything else, Mitsui Ocean Cruises distinguishes itself through cultural immersion. Rather than relying heavily on casinos (although there is one on deck 5), waterslides, or jam-packed entertainment schedules, the cruise emphasized Japanese traditions and education throughout the itinerary.

Because it was often too windy or rainy to fully enjoy the outdoor decks, pools, and whirlpools during our early April sailing, the programming aboard helped fill the quieter sea days. The most memorable were the experiences that leaned into Japanese customs: a Tamatebako Tea Service, which included tasting and exploring the the differences among three chilled green teas grown and harvested at the foothills of Mount Fuji alongside Japanese sweets; a culinary expo where the chefs from each restaurant showcased various signature dishes; a gin cart in the Ocean Club exclusively pouring Japanese gin, whisky and sake; an origami class, and traditional Taiko (Japanese drumming) performances.

Dining aboard Mitsui Ocean Fuji largely centers around Japanese cuisine, though international dishes are also available throughout the ship. Our first dinner took place in Restaurant Fuji, the ship’s more formal dining room, with three-course menus featuring Japanese fusion dishes like beef demi-shabu (thin slices of beef in hot broth), sashimi, and grilled Spanish mackerel with shiso butter. Some evenings, the dinner menu was Western style, with dishes like lobster thermidor, beef fillet medallions with Madeira sauce, and Manhattan clam chowder.

Omakase sushi spread on tabletop with small ceramic tea kettle

Passengers are treated to an omakase sushi spread on Mitsui Ocean Fuji.

Courtesy of Mitsui Ocean Cruises

Terrace Restaurant Hachiyo served a buffet style spread and often held themed cuisine nights including Indian and French, with offerings like tandoori chicken and Provençal beef stew. Hachiyo also always provided a nightly, made-to-order steak option served with a potato-based side dish, for those looking for a classically American dinner entrée.

Other standout dining experiences included a six-course omakase nigiri dinner at Hachiyo with delicacies like miso-pickled monkfish liver, miso-marinated grilled black cod, and tuna and amberjack nigiri.

Our favorite dinner was at Hokusai Fine Dining (which requires advance reservations and an additional fee). It’s the ship’s specialty restaurant created in partnership with acclaimed Japanese chef Kiyomi Mikuni known for his culinary style dubbed “Japonisée,” a blend of Japanese flavors and traditional French cuisine. Highlights included a flavorful vegetable consommé and roasted lamb with truffle sauce.

Beyond the formal dining rooms, the ship also offered a casual poolside eatery, Kohan (with options like hot dogs and pizza), grab-and-go pastries and snacks at Ocean Café, and 24-hour room service.

The excursions

The shore excursions ultimately became the strongest part of the voyage for me, largely because they focused heavily on regional history and culture rather than checklist-style sightseeing. But it is important to note that as Mitsui is just starting to expand into the North American market, English-language excursions remain limited to one option per port, unlike the choice between two excursions per port usually available to Japanese-speaking guests. According to the company, about 90 percent of passengers are Japanese cruisers, and the other 10 percent are a mix of international guests, including those from North America. Announcements on the ship are made in both Japanese and English.

In the coastal city of Ibusuki, known for its natural hot sand baths, not even the steady rain could dim the beauty of our excursion to Chiran Samurai Residence District, a remarkably preserved Edo era neighborhood sometimes referred to as the “Little Kyoto of Satsuma” (an ancient Japanese province that lasted from the 8th to the 19th century). Our guide pointed out the varying heights of the stone walls in the district (to prevent enemies on horseback from entering), manicured hedges, and traditional samurai homes with sculpted gardens that lined the quiet streets. We toured the seven gardens open to the public, many with pumice stones and volcanic ash, and cloud pruned trees and bushes.

White Hirado Castle atop stone foundation

A cruise with Mitsui brings passengers to Hirado Castle in Japan’s Nagasaki prefecture.

Photo by hayakato/Shutterstock

The second half of the excursion shifted dramatically in tone with a visit to the Chiran Peace Museum, dedicated to the tokko pilots—better known internationally as kamikaze pilots—who carried out one-way missions during World War II. I was moved to tears by the statue of a young pilot proudly gazing in the direction of Okinawa, and the nearby statue of a middle-aged woman staring directly at him, representing the mothers who never saw their sons again. Photography was prohibited in most areas of the museum, which added to the weight and intimacy of the experience. I know I can be quite the empath, but I couldn’t help but feel the cost of war through the personal letters, uniforms, and photographs of baby-faced pilots.

In Sasebo, a port city in the southern Nagasaki prefecture, we had our longest guided excursion, which focused on the layered cultural history of western Kyushu, the southwesternmost island of Japan. We visited the 108-year-old Tabira Catholic Church, a testament to the faith of Japanese Christians who practiced in secret when the religion was banned during the Edo period. After the ban ended in 1873, a small group of local Catholics built the church (it was completed in 1918), which is also home to a serene cemetery of parishioners who chose the area as their final resting place.

From there, we continued to Hirado Castle, a 308-year-old structure that once served as the seat of the ruling Matsura clan, perched above the Hirado Strait, one of Japan’s key gateways for trade. The hilltop views overlooking the harbor were some of the best of the trip, particularly with the combination of sea, mountains, and traditional architecture. After a brief lunch, the afternoon centered around Arita porcelain traditions at Fukagawa Seiji’s China On The Park, a fine porcelain gallery where displays trace the evolution of Japanese porcelain from the Edo period through to today.

Temple atop rocky shore at right in Busan

Busan in South Korea was a highlight of the sailing.

Photo by Thomas Roger/Unsplash

The coastal city of Busan in South Korea ended up being my favorite stop overall. Cherry blossom season beautifully framed the morning walk through the Samrak Ecological Park, where pale pink blooms stretched along riverside paths in one of the city’s largest green spaces. We also visited the colorful hillside Gamcheon Cultural Village. What I appreciated most was that the area still felt like a functioning neighborhood rather than a fully manufactured tourist attraction. After the guided tour portion, I stopped by Olive Young to stock up on Korean skincare, then hubby and I stuffed ourselves with an enormous amount of Korean fried chicken at bhc Chicken.

Our final stop in Kobe was really a turn port, but we joined a short tour to visit Meriken Park, for photos near the city’s iconic “Be Kobe” sign and waterfront skyline views. After several intense excursions earlier in the trip, the abbreviated visit was a welcome, more relaxed outing before returning to Tokyo.

Who this cruise is best for

Mitsui Ocean Cruises feels best suited for travelers who already have some familiarity with Japan and want a deeper, slower look at the country beyond Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. For first-time visitors to Japan, the itinerary feels unexpectedly niche. Ports like Ibusuki and Sasebo offer fascinating historical and cultural experiences, but they lack the instant recognition and wish-list appeal many travelers seek on a first trip to the country.

As someone visiting Japan for the first time, I occasionally found myself craving time in major cities before diving into these smaller regional ports. Travelers hoping for an introduction to Japan’s headline destinations will be better served by a cruise that incorporates larger urban centers. But for repeat visitors—or travelers specifically interested in the more rural side of Japan—the itinerary offers a chance to experience parts of the country that rarely appear on standard international travel routes.

The bottom line

Mitsui Ocean Cruises won’t appeal to travelers looking for nonstop nightlife, major attractions, or a greatest-hits introduction to Japan. But for travelers interested in regional culture, quiet luxury, and a more intimate atmosphere aboard, Mitsui Ocean Fuji offers something increasingly difficult to find in modern cruising: a ship that genuinely feels connected to the destination it’s sailing through.

The weather during my sailing complicated parts of the experience, particularly for anyone hoping to maximize time outdoors on deck. Spring sailings in this region can still bring unpredictable conditions, and future passengers should prepare accordingly.

Still, even amid rough seas and rainy days, the cruise succeeded in creating a sense of immersion that extended beyond the ports themselves. By the end of the voyage, it felt less like I had simply cruised around Japan and more like I had spent a week participating in a distinctly Japanese approach to travel.

Shayla Martin is a senior editor at Afar. She is an award-winning travel and culture journalist based in Washington, D.C. She is also the founder of “The Road We Trod,” a newsletter that explores travel destinations through the Black gaze.
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