During the Northern Hemisphere’s summer 2023, I spent a month Down Under with my husband and kids, circling Australia and bouncing between the North and South islands of New Zealand. Despite it being nearly as exhausting as it sounds, we made core memories on “Great Walks” and in national parks, sledding on luges and jet boating in Queenstown, and playing Queen at high tea in Auckland. We also left much undone for our next visit—including a trip to one of the world’s best new resorts set on a high-country sheep station. Read on for some of the best places to visit now in New Zealand.
Wanaka is a can’t miss for adventurers.
Queenstown and Wanaka
South Island
Queenstown has long been the adrenaline capital of New Zealand—it’s the birthplace of bungee jumping, as well as an entry point into the Southern Alps and all its corresponding sports (heliskiing, jet boating, luging at Skyline Queenstown, you name it). Over the years the mountain town has gotten more developed, and expensive, although any visitor would be remiss not to wait in line at Fergburger for the eponymous burger the size of a child’s head. (Now a mini-franchise, Mrs. Ferg has added pastries, gelato, and lattes to the menu, and Ferg’s bar keeps the fun going until 2 a.m.) Also of note: Madam Woo’s “flavors from the Malacca Straits” does authentic laksa, beef rendang, and a five-spice fried chicken for the ages. Chase it all with a cocktail and live music at bolthole Little Blackwood.
An hour’s drive north of Queenstown is the more laid-back Wanaka, on the south side of Lake Wanaka, which is developing a reputation as a foodie town. It has a bit of everything: fine dining, a food truck scene, wineries and a husband-and-wife-run distillery taking advantage of all that alpine water. Dinner at Kika is a must-do, so we hear—next trip! Wellness and mindfulness are front of mind here, with responsible travelers encouraged to embrace slow travel and support Love Wanaka, which raises money to support conservation and biodiversity in the region.
Where to stay
Checking into Queenstown can prove a little tricky—there aren’t a lot of hotel and rental options—so some travelers opt to stay outside the downtown corridor at the Matakauri, recently taken over by Rosewood. With just 24 guest rooms, suites, and villas, set on the shore of Lake Wakatipu, it feels remote even though it’s only a seven-minute drive from Queenstown. I’m not prone to adjectives, but the views are gorgeous.
Auckland is New Zealand’s largest city.
Photo by Sulthan Auliya/Unsplash
Auckland
North Island
Whether it’s their first or 15th time in New Zealand, most U.S.-based travelers pass through the country’s largest city and main international hub. With its boat-filled harbor and dramatic volcanic surroundings, Auckland is a stunner when viewed from any vantage point: hiking to the summit of Maungawhau/Mount Eden or along the shoreline of Te pane o mataoho/Maangere Mountain; on a ferry headed to winery-laden Waiheke Island; or atop the gantry at Silo Park, the rooftop bar of the QT hotel, or the observatory of the iconic Sky Tower.
If you’re traveling with kids, get on the ice with a colony of king and gentoo penguins at Sea Life Kelly Tarlton’s Aquarium, or learn the story behind NZ rugby and haka (the Māori war dance at the start of each match) at the Auckland All Blacks Experience. Drive an hour outside Auckland to Sculptureum at Matakana, whose six art galleries, three sculpture gardens, vineyard, and Rothko Restaurant make for a lovely all-ages way to spend an afternoon.
Where to stay
Cordis Auckland, a Langham sister property downtown, manages to be both business traveler– and family-friendly. Corner Executive Suites have a living room, king-size bedroom, and kitchen with a microwave and range; views of the Sky Tower; and oversize bathrooms with soaking tubs. Make time for a Cordis High Tea for Two; it also has a thoughtful kids’ afternoon tea with a red panda mascot named Cody and a sugar rush for the ages.
Looking for more top hotels? Try the new InterContinental on the water, the Park Hyatt, or JW Marriott Auckland.
Where to eat and drink
Breakfast at Amano Bakery in Britomart; Instagram-famous Giant Cookies at Moustache Milk and Cookie Bar; your pick of Italian at Bivacco on the waterfront and/or at Baduzzi on the North Wharf in Wynyard Quarter. Ditch the cell phone (social media is discouraged here), puffer coats, and sneakers for a fancy night of cocktails at Pineapple on Parnell.
Don’t miss a chance to visit Wellington on your next visit to New Zealand.
Courtesy of Shutterstock
Wellington
North Island
Hiakai restaurant in Wellington began as a pop-up experience in 2016, when founding chef Monique Fiso created dishes that celebrated her Māori and Samoan roots with the precision of an artist who honed her craft in New York City. “We place a special focus on researching and showcasing [Indigenous] ingredients in modern and inventive ways,” writes the Hiakai team. Much has been said (everywhere from Time magazine to the World’s 50 Best) about how memorable those dishes are, be it a vichyssoise with local potatoes served with mussel ice cream, or kumara (sweet potato) gnocchi in a sauce of huhu grubs. Fiso and her cofounder Katie Monteith also maintain a zero-waste philosophy and a commitment to foraging for wild kai (local ingredients). Fans of the restaurant can continue their education with Fiso’s Hiakai cookbook, which includes a history of Māori food culture, descriptions of traditional ingredients, and recipes. 40 Wallace St., Mount Cook, Wellington; book now: $140 for tasting menu.
Granite and marble formations rise out of the sea at Abel Tasman National Park.
Photo by Daboost/Shutterstock
Nelson and Abel Tasman National Park
South Island
The South Island of New Zealand needs no hype man, no filter. Natural wonders come with legendary names like the Remarkables and Valley of the Trolls, and they beg to be explored on foot, by car, helicopter, skis, jet boat, bungee—you name it.
As Elen Turner wrote for Afar in 2022, “Road-tripping is the only way to really experience the South Island’s natural beauty. Start in Nelson, a city of more than 50,000 at the top of the South Island, and drive west about an hour to the eastern entrance of Abel Tasman National Park. Many travelers opt to hike—or ‘tramp'—the Coast Track, a five-day, 37-mile ‘Great Walk,’ camping in tents along the way. If you have mobility issues (or perhaps toddlers in tow), you can still get the best of the national park via boat tours from Kaiteriteri, stopping at beaches on turquoise bays.
“Continue the drive over notorious Tākaka Hill—with its narrow, windy, gut-churning lanes—to Golden Bay, pausing at a lookout for panoramic Tasman Bay views. Stay overnight in a town along the way, such as Tākaka or Collingwood, and end your visit marveling at the 65-foot-high Wainui Falls and Te Waikoropupū Springs. The cold, clear springs are a sacred Māori space—a source of life, healing, and renewal for locals and travelers alike.”
Flockhill Lodge brings a touch of modern design to a working South Island sheep station.
Photo by Barry Tobin
Craigieburn Valley
South Island
In between Christchurch and Queenstown is a homestead that people are making pilgrimages to: Flockhill Lodge, a four-bedroom property set on a 36,000-acre, high-country sheep station. Afar named it a “best new hotel of 2023” and I’ve been itching to check it out ever since. Flockhill’s greatest luxury is its privacy and remoteness (plus access to nature and incredible food). “New Zealand–born chef Craig Martin emphasizes local ingredients in his meals: Périgord black truffles foraged in Canterbury one night, followed by fresh-caught hapuku from Rakiura the next,” writes Jessica Beresford in her review of the lodge. “Even with these luxuries, the retreat’s best asset is its access to adventures.” Guides can take guests on guided hikes, bike rides through the Southern Alps, snowboarding at the nearby Craigieburn ski areas, or fly-fishing on Winding Creek.
The rugged Routeburn Track winds for 20 miles through Fiordland National Park.
Photo by Maaaja/Shutterstock
Fiordland National Park
South Island
Several years ago B.C. (before children), I went on my first New Zealand “Great Walk”—one of 10 well-maintained hut-to-hut hikes through some of the country’s most scenic stretches. This was a three-day, 25-mile, many-weather-patterns tramp along the Routeburn Track in Fiordland and Mount Aspiring National Parks with Ultimate Hikes New Zealand, and I’m still talking about it. The Great Walks program turned 30 last year, and in celebration, added a new trail to the network: a 38-mile loop called Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track, also in Fiordland National Park. Be among the first to check out its ancient forest, Māori land, and crowd-free coastlines. Base up in Queenstown, and please make time to stand in line for a Ferg Burger—it’s worth it.
This article was originally published in 2023 and was updated in September 2024 with new information.
