The Best Things to Do and See in the Great Smoky Mountains

Those who have never visited Dollywood may be surprised that Dolly Parton’s namesake attraction is anything but a dusty tourist trap up in the hills. In fact, it’s a world-class amusement park with top-notch thrill rides for all ages. With everything from the Tennessee Tornado roller coaster to the Drop Line tower to the Daredevil Falls log ride, Dollywood rivals the country’s best-known theme parks for variety and adrenaline-spiking coasters. There’s plenty to entertain little tykes as well, including a carousel, playgrounds, and kiddie-size versions of the adult rides. Dollywood’s adjacent Splash Country water park means you can make several days out of a visit, especially if you stay at the on-site resort and cabins. The park also hosts holiday events, including a Smoky Mountain Christmas light display and nightly concerts and shows. Just don’t get so distracted that you forget to explore the Smoky Mountains.

Many of the Smoky Mountains’ earliest tourists came here to shop from local craftsmen, popularized by the Pi Beta Phi women’s fraternity that chose supporting these mountain folk artists as their cause. In 1912, the women established a public school for the local children, evolving into the Arrowmont School of Arts of Crafts that persists today. Centuries-old trades continue to be passed down, and visitors will find woodworking, basket weaving, ceramics, and metalworks created in the same manner they have for generations. An organized eight-mile loop road includes stops at 120 artists’ studios and workshops, many with live demonstrations. Travel it at your leisure, or break it up over several days as you discover this thriving remnant of the culture that shaped Southern Appalachia.

The Southeast may not offer the never-ending runs of the Rockies, but when you need your fix, snow is snow, and Cataloochee’s 740 feet of vertical drop and 5,400-foot summit elevation rank it among the region’s best. Five lifts service the mountain, including the Omigosh lift to the summit and access to a wide beginner-friendly area aptly dubbed Easy Way. For late risers, a twilight pass grants access from 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. (also allowing time to hit the tubing park in the morning). Nearby Maggie Valley offers ample dining and lodging, plus easy access to the national park. Be sure to detour to Cataloochee Valley in the morning or evening for a glimpse of the elk herd that was successfully reintroduced into the park in 2001.

Smokemont’s horseback-riding routes, which average $30/hour per rider, can easily fill the better part of a day spent outside. The most popular ride is a 2.5-hour expedition that climbs uphill to a hidden mountain waterfall. It’s possible to extend the ride to four hours, adding a second waterfall and a scenic trip along the Oconaluftee River. For those not inclined or physically able to ride a horse, calmer horse-drawn wagon rides are even more affordable and offer many of the same views of the river (there’s also no minimum age for a wagon ride, but only children five and older are allowed on horseback). Smokemont’s season runs through October, making it one of the finest ways to take in Appalachia’s changing autumn colors.

On a mountainside surrounded by the national park, this nine–zip-line course stands apart from many of its competitors in the Southeast. Owned and designed by professionals who build courses all over the world (they own a second in-house location in Oahu), the course sends you soaring over streams and ravines in a 2.5-hour tour. It begins with an ATV ride up the mountain and includes three suspended “sky bridges.” Night and sunset tours are available during summer. Equally exciting and even more challenging is Climb Works’ two-mile El Regis mountain-bike trail. Although it’s beginner-friendly, the combination of ascent and descent ensures that intermediate riders will feel the burn, and optional routes that include wood features, berms, and rollers attract even seasoned experts. Climb Works avoids the touristy feel of some zip-line companies, thanks to a company culture based around sustainability and environmental stewardship.

Native American history comes alive at this re-creation of a Cherokee village that’s designed to replicate life in 1760, when European contact begins to negatively affect the tribe. Visitors experience life and witness skills that have been passed down for generations, including traditional canoe hulling, basket weaving, clay pottery making and traditional medicinal practices using plants native to the Smokies. The village consists of earthen trails through replicas of Cherokee huts, and the day is punctuated by live reenactments, including dances and ceremonies as the tribe prepares for war with the European invaders. After a day at Oconaluftee, stay for Unto These Hills, a dramatic retelling of the Cherokee story from contact with the Spanish in 1540 to the Trail of Tears under President Andrew Jackson to the reemergence of the tribe as it exists today.

Streams in the Smoky Mountains are among the most productive mountain trout fisheries in the world, but without knowing where to go, you’re likely to do a lot more fishing than catching. The staff at the Smoky Mountain Angler, Gatlinburg’s most respected tackle and guide shop, can point you in the right direction. Better yet, they can take you there, whether you want to target trout or bass. They’re also proficient in the quickly growing technique of Euro nymphing, featuring fast-sinking flies that open up waters that are nearly impossible to fish with a traditional approach. The Angler also sells fishing licenses and rents waders and rods, so even if you’re determined to have a solo outing, it’s a smart first stop.

OK, America has plenty of beautiful little mountain towns. I just happened to catch this one on a quiet, low-season day and I was utterly charmed. The secondhand bookshop was a thing of joy - run by a woman who knew her Dorothy Parker from her Dorothy L Sayers - and the Dripolator coffee shop, above, had a great vibe, with its beaten up sofas and community notices pinned all over the walls. And then there’s the mountain views, and the clear air. If you’ve had a big night out in Asheville, I can’t think of a better place to deal with your hangover.