Houston

The largest city in Texas and the fourth-largest in the nation, Houston is a powerhouse metropolis with strong ties to the energy and aeronautics industries but a soft spot for the arts, too. Between its happening neighborhoods, creative culinary scene, ample green space, live music, and ever-increasing cultural diversity, Houston is taking on a new identity as one of the great cosmopolitan cities on the global stage.

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Photo Courtesy of Thomas Hawk

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Houston?

Remember these months: October through May. That’s when the weather in Houston is just about perfect for doing anything indoors or out. It’s best to avoid Houston’s four-month-long summers of extreme heat and humidity (June through September), when locals look for any opportunity to make a northern escape.

How to get around Houston

Houston has two major airports: George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH), 15 miles northeast of downtown, and Hobby Airport (HOU), 9 miles southeast of the city. Taxis and shuttles are available into town from the airports, but it’s probably best just to rent a car, which you’ll most likely need to get around Houston during your stay.

Unfortunately, a car is a must if you want to really explore Houston. There are walkable areas (Midtown, Neartown/Montrose, and Downtown), but access from those neighborhoods to the rest of the city by public transportation is quite limited. The light rail, called METRORail, has three lines with a total of 22 miles of rail.

Can’t miss things to do in Houston

A clear local favorite activity is attending an outdoor concert or play at Miller Outdoor Theatre. It’s been around since 1923 and is part of the beautiful Hermann Park in southwest Houston. Because of Houston’s mild fall-through-spring weather, the theater has an eight-month season. And 100 percent of the shows are free. Hermann Park is also near the Museum District, so you can spend the afternoon browsing the Museum of Fine Arts or the Museum of Natural Science, then see a show at the outdoor theater in the evening.

Food and drink to try in Houston

There are claims that Houston has more restaurants per capita than any other city in the world. With more than 10,000 establishments, you would certainly never have to eat at the same place twice. The ethnic diversity is almost as vast as the numbers—Mexican, Vietnamese, Korean, Salvadoran, French, Cajun. Houston’s food is dynamic and highly touted (six of the city’s chefs were nominated for James Beard Awards in 2017), making it a constant challenge to save enough room for dessert.

Culture in Houston

One thing that surprises visitors and newcomers to Houston is its world-renowned arts scene. The city is second only to New York City for the number of theater seats in a concentrated U.S. downtown area, and it has its own opera, ballet, symphony, and theater companies. Houston is also a great museum city with 19 different museums offering a range of exhibits, collections, workshops, and live performances all in one district. The Menil Collection, MFAH, Museum of Natural Science, and CAMH are all must-visit museums.

From fall through spring, Houston is the perfect setting for outdoor festivals and events like the Greek Festival in October, Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo in March, and the Art Car Parade in May.

Local travel tips for Houston

An interesting fact about Houston you may not learn unless living here is that it’s the only major American city without land-use zoning laws. This means anything can be built anywhere—hospitals next to Italian restaurants next to taxidermy shops next to schools next to gun shops. So, what the city lacks in beauty may be due this little-known hyperlocal liberty.

Guide Editor

A native of East Tennessee, Jessica Lymberopoulos has been based in Houston since 2010. She has lived and worked in the Heights, Medical Center, and Kingwood and loves all this sprawling, energetic city has to offer. She works as a marketing copywriter and studies rhetoric at Northern Arizona University.

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Houston’s first boutique hotel, the Lancaster is also the oldest continually operating hotel in town. Built in 1926 by Sicilian-born Houston investor Michele DeGeorge, it’s now owned by Texas-based hoteliers Matthew Newton, Jay Shinn, and their respective families, all of whom work hard to maintain the hotel’s reputation for personalized service and classic style.

Extensive renovations following Hurricane Harvey brought classic Regency style to the traditionally Italiante property, from clean, elegant lines to a more-open floor plan. The hotel also added a focus on visual arts, bringing in a collection of more than 200 contemporary works by renowned Texas artists to be displayed throughout the public spaces, suites, and 93 guestrooms. Rich in Houston history, the Lancaster was named a Texas historic landmark in 1984 and is now the city’s only member of Historic Hotels of America. Rooms are comfortable and immaculate—albeit cozy quarters. And just as if you were a guest in a friend’s home, there’s complimentary Wi-Fi and a full-service American breakfast buffet with coffee, housemade scones, granola, fruits, farm-to-table eggs, bacon, and sausage. At on-site restaurant Cultivated F+B, guests can also look forward to contemporary American dishes like deviled eggs, braised short rib tacos, and cast iron–seared scallops.
After 80 some odd years as one of Houston’s most lauded and refined hotels, the historic Warwick Hotel went from Bach to rock, when new owners gave it a slick makeover and renamed it Hotel ZaZa in 2007. A bold beacon in the Museum District, the dimly lit hotel is a virtual playground for adults, with daring decor, baroque details, and an outdoor pool with private piazza-themed cabanas. While it maintains much of its original 1920s architectural elegance and details, including Baccarat chandeliers, the interior walls are splashed with modern art and iconic editorial-photo shots of beloved celebs.

Many rooms and event spaces are themed, including the space-inspired “Houston, We Have a Problem” Suite and the Conspiracy Room, which nods to Prohibition. A recent refresh includes newly renovated 11th-floor meeting rooms, new mattresses, new carpet, spa and fitness center upgrades (including treatment room tweaks and the addition of innovative infrared saunas), and new in-room flat-screen TVs. Bottom line: even an overnight stay feels like a true escape.
Open since 2001, the hotel pays homage to Houston’s rich roots in the oil industry with black granite lobby floors and a vast collection of Texas wildcatter images by famed photographer Arthur Meyerson. A wildcatter is a nickname for a person who does exploratory drilling, and the hotel’s name is a variation on an oil “derrick” drilling rig.

Streamlined and modern, the property underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation after Destination Hotels acquired it in 2012. Guest rooms have a neutral palette with bold accent colors, graphic textiles, and contemporary furnishings including platform beds and banquette seating. Expansive windows with city views are standard. The business center is open 24 hours, and the pet-friendly property has a “Wag Lounge” for guest dogs.
Houston has an amazing amount of hidden art gems. One of my favorite is James Turrell’s Skyspace Twilight Epiphany, a beautiful temple to light and sound. Whether visiting for one of the concert series or just for fun, Twilight Epiphany is uplifting.
Before you hit the counter at Café Brasil, let us introduce you to some of Houston‘s cleanest ingredients. Local cheese artisans the Houston Dairymaids provide the cheese. Pizza dough, pastries, and breads are made in-house. And the eggs are laid by nearby, free-range hens. It doesn’t matter whether you’ve arrived for breakfast (try the daily quiche), lunch (sample from cheese and charcuterie plates), or dinner (there’s a multitude of pizzas)—it’s a safe bet that whatever you order didn’t have to travel far to make it to your plate.
If you’re a sucker for chalkboards, simple design, local products, and good food and coffee, Revival Market is your place. Everything served at this café is homemade, from the flaky chocolate croissants and kolachs (fruit-filled pastries) to the breakfast tacos and sandwiches. While you’re there, you can also drool over the artisanal charcuterie and other local products.
The CAMH, whose exhibits are always compelling and sometimes disturbing, fun, interesting, or emotional, is the only Texas museum dedicated solely to exhibiting and interpreting contemporary art. And the gift shop has the coolest toys, bags, jewelry, and other random gifts.
Yes, there might be a line. Yes, you need to go anyway. The Breakfast Klub is a Houston institution for good reason—you’ll find simple food, done right. Choose from classic breakfast dishes like French toast, omelettes, and biscuits and gravy, or order a more imaginative combination, like the Wings & Waffle (six chicken wing pieces and a Belgian waffle topped with a fresh strawberry and powdered sugar) or the Katfish & Grits (catfish fillet with grits, potatoes or eggs, and a choice of toast or biscuit). Despite the restaurant’s name, breakfast isn’t served all day here—catch it from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Max’s Wine Dive asks, “Champagne and fried chicken? Why the hell not?!” which pretty much sums up their concept of pairing comfort foods with wine or champagne. This place gets packed at peak hours, yet the waiters stay attentive and friendly. If you want to experience Texas’s “classy comfort food movement,” Max’s is a great place to do it.
When you hear the name of this unusual museum—the National Museum of Funeral History—you can’t help but have a little morbid curiosity about what’s inside. The motto here is “Any day above ground is a good one,” and the inside is filled with death-related artifacts and exhibits that have included a “fantasy coffin” collection with casket shapes including a shallot, a Mercedes, and a chicken; a re-creation of a 1900s casket factory; a tribute to Batman star Adam West; a diorama on embalming practices during the Civil War; and a full-scale replica of Pope John Paul II’s crypt. Admission is $10 for adults, $9 for seniors and veterans, $7 for children under 12, and free for children five and under.