New Mexico

New Mexico presents a convergence of expansive sky and stunning light, high desert and earthy piñon wood, Spanish architecture and grand, sun-drenched landscapes. The sprawling city of Albuquerque is the gateway to the state’s wonders, a jumping-off point for experiencing stunning desert volcanoes and a meeting of mountain ranges. The charming, 400-year-old state capital of Santa Fe is filled with low-slung adobe architecture and offers a haven of art, music, and native culture. Outside the cities, you’ll find a plethora of natural formations, rocky arroyos, river gorges, and the panoramic aspen-covered slopes of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to New Mexico?

Four distinct seasons color the calendar. Summer is the peak for visitors, with warm days and cool nights. September through November, the region is less crowded and temperatures cooler. Winter is ski season in Santa Fe and Taos, and the holidays provide a warm, glowing backdrop of farolitos (small candles) dotting the streets and adobes, most notably along the famed Canyon Road. The weather in spring is slow to warm and beckons few crowds.

How to get around New Mexico

Most travelers arrive at either Albuquerque International Sunport or Santa Fe Municipal Airport. Hop the Rail Runner commuter rail from Albuquerque to Santa Fe. The reasonably priced Sandia Shuttle Express from Albuquerque airport runs to Santa Fe, and the 90-minute New Mexico Rail Runner Express Train connects from Santa Fe Depot to Albuquerque’s Downtown Alvarado Transportation Center. Rental cars are readily available at the airport.

It’s best to obtain a car for driving the stunning landscapes of New Mexico. Smaller towns like Santa Fe and Taos are highly walkable and pedestrian friendly.

Can’t miss things to do in New Mexico

The New Mexico Capitol Art Collection is an extensive collection focusing on nearly 600 New Mexican and Southwestern artists, housed in the State Capitol Complex. This awesome assemblage incorporates paintings, photography, mixed media, textiles, and handcrafted furniture. And it’s free to the public.

Food and drink to try in New Mexico

The culinary culture is an overlapping of Spanish, Mediterranean, Mexican, cowboy, and Pueblo Native American influences. Expect traditional dishes like chiles relleños, tamales, and enchiladas served with guacamole, pinto beans, and calabacitas (a blend of sautéed squash, onions, peppers, and corn). Enjoy it all with a salty margarita, a local craft beer, or a light, local sparkling wine.

Culture in New Mexico

The melding of Native American, Hispanic, and Anglo cultures presents a unique style. Modern buildings meet century-old haciendas, colonial architecture, and Spanish churches. Native American pueblos showcase classic pottery and weavings.

Come summer, Santa Fe’s Spanish Market and Indian Market are huge crowd-pleasers, along with the Hatch Valley Chile Festival. Fall ushers in the Old Town Salsa Festival in Albuquerque along with the acclaimed nine-day International Balloon Festival and the New Mexico State Fair. Winter offers the annual Taos Winter Wine Festival and the Canyon Road Farolita (small illuminated candles) walk. Spring is time for the Southern New Mexico Wine Festival.

Local travel tips for New Mexico

When at high elevations, make certain to wear sunscreen, and go easy on the alcohol (at 7,000 feet, one drink equals three). When dining, locals eat their sopaipillas (fluffy fried pastries) not before or during, but after their meal.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
The hotels on this list are as thoughtful about accessibility as they are about design, going beyond compliance to make travel more comfortable and intuitive for disabled guests.
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
When most people look at a piece of turquoise, they see a pretty blue stone. The people of New Mexico see water, sky, bountiful harvests, and a source of health and protection. Turquoise has been a valuable stone—in jewelry, for ceremonial purposes, and as an object of trade—for more than a thousand years. Many works of art incorporating turquoise are on permanent display in New Mexico, at institutions like the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe. You can also, however, see (and touch) them at street festivals and markets along with weaving, pottery, silverwork, Kachina dolls, and more. You may even decide to take a bit of New Mexico home with you.
A modest, friendly family establishment (serving since 1963) where locals and visitors-in-the-know visit for flavorful James Beard award-winning New Mexican cuisine including carne adovada with warm, marinated roast cubed pork in a brick red chile sauce.
Some visitors to Santa Fe are surprised to find this Gothic revival structure in the middle of all of the adobe buildings in the historic district, like a piece of medieval Paris transplanted to the Wild West. The French connection is real—the 19th-century Loretto Chapel was designed by a French architect who modeled it after La Sainte Chapelle in Paris. According to legend, though, the plans failed to include access from the chapel floor to the choir loft. So, the nuns who ran the girls’ school for which this stone structure was built began praying, and after nine days, a mysterious carpenter arrived. Neither nails nor glue nor any visible external support were used in this doubly-twisting staircase, and no one ever found out the name of the carpenter, who left without seeking payment. It must’ve been St. Joseph himself...so goes the legend of “the miraculous staircase.” The physics of the structure can be explained by architects today, but that doesn’t stop about a quarter-million visitors every year from marveling at the elegant spruce spiral. Open to the public as a privately run museum, the Loretto Chapel hasn’t been a church for decades. It can, however, be rented: a spectacular setting for a private wedding.
Cerrillos, New Mexico was the center of the turquoise mining trade in the late 1800’s, and almost became New Mexico’s capital. The Clear Light Opera House was built to house performances by East Coast luminaries like Sarah Bernhardt. One of the ghost towns repopulated by artists along the now famous Turquoise Trail, it’s a great day trip from nearby Santa Fe. Check out the Trading Post, pet a llama, and visit artist Bill Skrip’s sculptures.
In the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains north of Santa Fe, the village of Chimayó has become famous for its adobe church, “El Santuario,” whose side chapel’s dirt floor is reputed to have healing powers. Every Good Friday, tens of thousands of pilgrims make their way to this “Lourdes of the Southwest.” Others descend upon this valley for more temporal reasons. Just down the road from the Santuario is the century-old adobe home that houses the “Rancho de Chimayó,” a New Mexico institution. Owned by the Jaramillo family, this restaurant is known for its carne adovada--pork that has been stewed to tenderness in red chile. You may or may not believe in the power of the dirt in the Santuario’s floor, but the taste of this valley’s chile will have you convinced that the terroir--the taste of place--deserves its venerable reputation. Get the “combinación picante” so that you can sample a tamal, rolled cheese enchilada, beans and posole along with the carne adovada. And don’t use all of your sopaipilla (the steaming square of puffy frybread) to soak up the chile; save a corner so you can douse it with local honey as a dessert... Chimayó is an easy forty-minute-drive from Santa Fe, on “the high road to Taos.” Across the road from the restaurant is a B&B, run by the same family as well.
New Mexico has an official state vegetable: the chile pepper. (In case you’re wondering, only 13 out of the 50 states even have such a designation.) And the self-proclaimed chile capital is the tiny agricultural village of Hatch--population 1600. But every year, on Labor Day weekend, up to thirty thousand people converge here to celebrate the hot pods during the annual Hatch Chile Festival. Climate and soil here converge for optimal pepper-growing. If you can’t make it to the Rio Grande Valley in early September, don’t worry about the flavor running out--roasted then frozen or canned, or dried and powdered, Hatch chiles can be had year-round. At Pepper Pot, a family-owned restaurant on what passes for the village’s main drag, try them stuffed--the chile relleno--or in sauce form, over enchiladas, burritos, huevos...And when it comes to which sauce to choose, New Mexico has an official state question: “red or green?” The local (and tastiest) way to answer is “Christmas,” and you’ll get both. This is down-to-earth terroir... Incidentally, several years ago, Anthony Bourdain passed through here and proclaimed Pepper Pot’s red enchiladas to be the best he’d ever had. Come judge for yourself. Open for breakfast and lunch, this converted home is a cash-only restaurant. The borders of both Texas and Mexico are only an hour away, and it’s a favorite with local farmers and bikers passing through; if you decide to eavesdrop, you’ll be hearing trilled Rs and twangy English.
Yes, New Mexico actually has an official “state question"--since 1996, referring to the ubiquitous chile sauce, it’s “red or green?” Fortunately you don’t have to choose just one; the local way to say ‘can I have both’ is just one word: “Christmas.” If you’re driving through New Mexico on the way to Arizona and points beyond, the only town of any size on I-40 between Albuquerque and Flagstaff is Gallup. For road-trip food here, get away from the Interstate and its humdrum chain restaurants. Seek out Jerry’s--a block off old Route 66. You can’t miss the retro neon sign, and there’s often a line out the door for its New Mexico-style fare. Gallup is surrounded by Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni lands--you might well be one of the few non-Native-Americans eating here at breakfast or lunch. The restaurant allows local vendors to come in and show their wares--usually jewelry and bracelets--while you eat. (You can request a ‘do not disturb’ sign for your booth if you want.) “Hole in the wall” gets overused, but Jerry’s definitely fits that description. Nothing pretentious here--but the flavor of the chile sauce is as good as you’ll find in Albuquerque or Santa Fe. A recommendation: the flat cheese-and-onion-enchiladas, topped “Christmas” style with a fried egg on top. And don’t forget to sop up the sauce with the sopaipillas, saving some of the frybread to top with honey as a dessert afterwards...
This unassuming adobe house in Santa Fe is home to one of the world’s ‘top ten places’ to drink chocolate. (Seriously. It ranks up there with anything in Europe or South America.) Walk the few blocks from the city’s central Plaza, open the door and inhale the pre-columbian fragrance of the eight or nine ‘drinking elixirs’ that will be swirling and ready to serve. Free samples will tempt and educate you... My wife lingered over the “Spanish” blend, sipping on a blend of chocolate, floral essence, coconut sugar and spices, while I had their version of “atole,” a traditional hearty breakfast drink made with blue corn masa, chocolate, honey, Mexican vanilla, and local chimayó chile pepper. But there’s more to cacao here than just drinking; the handmade truffles, caramels and mendiants are arrestingly good! The house-made agave caramels dusted with chile powder (again, from the beloved chimayó peppers from their namesake valley just north of the city) or topped with nuts from the pinyon pines so common in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo mountains--these are treats with a definite taste-of-place. Sip. Savor. Linger. Marvel.
A local institution, situated since 1953 in a 1692 adobe hacienda with brightly colored walls and a pretty courtyard, the Shed is deservedly famous for its smoky chile, just-hefty-enough blue corn tortillas, and classic recipes. Its sister restaurant, La Choza, is another local favorite. “We don’t have ambition to do a lot more,” says co-owner Courtney Carswell. “We just do what we do.” And they do it well.
A bit of a dive a mile and a half from Santa Fe’s tourist center, Maria’s has been a local favorite since 1952. The food is straightforward and delicious, but the place is at least as beloved for its margaritas—an eight-page menu lists more than 200 choices, all made with 100 percent agave tequila and lemon juice—which routinely win “best of” awards from local publications. Read more about green chilis. This appeared in the January/February 2014 issue.