San Francisco

San Francisco is a diverse city that often finds itself on the edge of social and technological change. The small city has long been a haven for marginalized groups, but it is also a place that is grappling with its identity in the throes of a tech boom. To really know San Francisco, you must explore its neighborhoods. Look for taquerias and techies in the Mission, rainbow flags flying above the Castro, earnest hippie vibes in the Haight, and beachy quietude in the Sunset. Visitors will find the city welcoming and full of activities for nature lovers, bookworms, shoppers, foodies, cultural mavens, and more.

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Photo by Rosangela Perry/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to San Francisco?

San Francisco is renowned for its cold, foggy summers. However, when September and October come around, the character lovingly known as Karl the Fog recedes, and temperatures can climb into the low 80s on the hottest days. Late winter can see some rain, but rarely much. Overall, the unique geography of this peninsula, bound as it is by the Bay and the Pacific, creates pockets of both warm and cool weather all year long. Dress in layers, and be prepared to encounter a range of temperatures as you make your way around the city.

How to get around San Francisco

San Francisco Airport is about 25 minutes from downtown by taxi, which will cost you about $45. The quickest option is to catch an Uber or Lyft. The major public transportation system, Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART), goes directly from the airport to downtown and across the bridge to the East Bay.

To get around, BART, Muni trains, buses, cable cars, and trams traverse the city. Rideshare services like Uber and Lyft are readily available. It’s also fairly easy to rent bicycles through Lyft.

Can’t miss things to do in San Francisco

The far northwestern corner of the city, called Land’s End, is where the San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean meet. The view of the Golden Gate Bridge and the Marin Headlands is spectacular here, and active visitors will find it an ideal spot for hiking and trail biking. When you’re done taking in the panoramic vista, take in some timeless works of art at the nearby Legion of Honor.

Read: The 26 Best Things to Do in San Francisco, According to a Local

Food and drink to try in San Francisco

San Francisco is a hotbed for the locavore movement, and destinations like the San Francisco Ferry Building—with farmers’ markets on Saturdays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays—offer a glimpse at the culinary bounty that grows in the nearby Central Valley of California. Look for fresh, ingredient-driven cuisine at innovative new restaurants (splurge at Saison), iconic standbys (splurge a little less at Zuni), and a vast array of affordable ethnic restaurants. Take your pick from Mexican, Shanghai, Uighur, Hunan, Salvadoran, Ethiopian, Korean, and many more.

Culture in San Francisco

San Francisco is a great museum city, anchored by three landmark buildings. The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), de Young Museum, and The Legion of Honor, part of the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco. Travelers will also find a burgeoning gallery scene and street art scene throughout the city. The Bay Area’s legacy as the home of Beat poets, funk artists, and jazz innovators lends additional cultural variety to the mix.

Summer music festivals like Outsidelands and Stern Grove’s weekly concerts provide plenty of entertainment, and June’s Pride Festival is a month-long celebration of equality. On the first Sunday of each month, flea market aficionados should look for the Alameda Point Antiques Faire, a huge market on an old navy base in the nearby East Bay.

Local travel tips for San Francisco

Always pack a jacket. This may be California, but don’t expect to be wearing your flip flops. Summer is all about the fog, although the sun does break through—especially in neighborhoods on the eastern side of the city, such as Noe Valley and the Mission.

Depending on where you’re staying, a car probably won’t be necessary, as public transportation, cabs, and various rideshares will be at your service. However, car rentals are plentiful if you do want to get out of town—traditional rental companies as well as peer-to-peer car sharing services like Getaround, Zipcar, and City CarShare.

If you have time, it’s absolutely worth your while to make a day-trip from the city to see the gorgeous coast and wine country north of the Golden Gate Bridge.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
These are the top luxury hotels to book in the Golden State, where experiences range from world-class culinary destinations and beachfront retreats to storied city hideaways.
From lobby bars to rooftop lounges, these are the hotel bars Afar editors love checking out when they’re checking in.
These places to stay are as varied and wonderful as the city itself.
These hotels are bringing a fresh vibe to six U.S. cities.
San Francisco’s Lodge at the Presidio will open its historic charm and bay views to guests this summer.
Whether it’s a staycation or a trip to a far destination, these hotels have activities to keep you (and your kids or travel buddies) busy during the winter season.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Hang Ah Dim Sum Tea Room’s brick facade and missing letters may not be much to look at from the outside, and the interior’s low ceilings, fluorescent lights, and basic furnishings won’t win awards, either, but the inexpensive dim sum served inside makes it worth a visit. It’s too small for rolling carts, but you can order soup dumplings, barbecue pork buns, shrimp dumplings, pot stickers, and many other freshly made, shareable bites. The menu has rice, noodle, and vegetable dishes, too. Hang Ah Dim Sum, established in 1920, calls itself the oldest continually operating dim sum restaurant in the United States and has been owned that whole time by the same handful of families.
The ‘60s and ‘70s in San Francisco were synonymous with psychedelic “hobbies,” but tripping in the new millennium on Pier 39 is something you can now enjoy, legally, with the entire family. This labyrinth of 77 mirrors and black lights is reminiscent of a carnival fun house, and finding your way out of the 2,000-square-foot kaleidoscope of glowing twists and turns and befuddling dead-ends puts the fun in funky. While ‘80s music thumps, kids race through and into the walls, while adults feel their way down endless neon hallways. Created by Charles Magowan (who, no surprise, studied psychology at Yale), the Mirror Maze is a trip for all ages, and at just $5 it might be the cheapest one you’ll find in San Francisco.
A writer walks into a bar. It sounds like the beginning of a joke, but when it happened at the Buena Vista on November 10, 1952, a new drink was born. Stanton Delaplane, a longtime columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle, walked in on that chilly November day and told the bar owner, Jack Koeppler, about a warm whiskey-and-coffee concoction he’d tasted in Shannon, Ireland. The oft-told story goes that the two men spent the evening measuring and mixing and testing in an effort to re-create the drink. Eventually, the recipe was mastered, and seven decades later, the Buena Vista’s Irish coffee is as legendary as San Francisco fog. Bartenders in crisp white jackets line up glass goblets on the bar and make up to 2,000 Irish coffees per day.
If chef David Barzelay’s Michelin-starred restaurant Lazy Bear is the dinner party, True Laurel is the after-party. Barzelay opened this cocktail bar just a few blocks from Lazy Bear, and while it’s touted as a drinking establishment, it’s hard to ignore the stellar food disguised as bar bites. And unlike Lazy Bear, which requires a hard-to-come-by ticket to get in, to score a spot at True Laurel, simply walk through the door. Barzelay teamed up with spirits-whisperer Nicolas Torres to oversee the bar program, and the cocktails go head-to-head with the food. Original, exotic concoctions such as the A-Dilla, which marries aquavit with makrut lime leaf, coconut, passion fruit, pomegranate, and dill, is just as complex and satisfying as the hen-of-the-wood mushrooms with a sour cream–allium dip. And while the entire experience is currently still first come, first served, keep an eye on the bar’s eerily analog website (or better yet, follow it on Barzelay’s preferred medium, Twitter) to find out when the eight-seat cocktail tasting bar, which is sure to be stocked with rare bottles, will start taking reservations.
“Fewer, better things” is this fashion brand’s motto, and you will be tempted to toss out everything in your closet once you run your fingers over Cuyana’s silk striped tees, poplin button-downs, leather bags, and simple cashmere crewneck sweaters. These luxury basics are all crafted by artisans around the globe and are timeless in design—Cuyana truly intends for its pieces to last a lifetime. Its retail space may be located in the heart of bustling Union Square, but its second-floor location, accessed via elevator, is easy to miss. Once upstairs, customers get a glimpse of what a life with less could look like—the space was designed by Lauren Nelson Design to look more like a stylish live-work loft than a store, with Eames chairs and floating wood shelves sparsely styled with impeccable objects. A few choice items hang on each clothing rack—a literal representation of the brand’s “lean closet” philosophy. Cuyana will even help customers get started: With each purchase there is the option to receive a reusable bag to fill with items “that aren’t helping you live your most beautiful life.” Drop it in the mail with the included prepaid shipping label and your items will be donated to women in need through the nonprofit organization H.E.A.R.T.
There are a few contemporary boutique brands poised to put San Francisco on the fashion map. Freda Salvador shoes have become the “it” footwear for a subset of effortlessly cool creative women. Editors and designers can be spotted sporting the brand’s modestly heeled modern loafers, mules, boots, and sandals, which come in gorgeous colored leathers and satins. The shoes are all designed in Freda Salvador’s Sausalito studio by cofounders Megan Papay and Cristina Palomo-Nelson, and fabricated in a tiny family-run factory in Elda, Spain. Quality is paramount, as is wearability, but it’s the styles that have truly set the brand apart. The San Francisco flagship on Fillmore Street attracts a ladylike version of the obsessed sneakerhead—Freda fetishists who collect new styles like playing cards.
In a city where cooking has been elevated to a lifestyle, provisions for the refined kitchen are in high demand. And no one has been able to meet that need quite like March. The whitewashed, sun-dappled store on an upscale stretch of Sacramento Street inspires instant kitchen envy in all. Pungent spices are displayed in black glass jars with custom labels, hand-thrown serving wear is stacked in elegant totems on the wood shelves, and a fat-bellied AGA stove stands against a wall of spotless subway tile. If you aren’t a home cook, you will vow to become one after a visit to March. The proprietor, the perpetually chic Sam Hamilton, came from New York and a career in fashion before finding her way here. She even interned with Alice Waters for a spell at Chez Panisse, which helps explain Hamilton’s knack for curating items—like handwoven tortillero baskets, Parigi stemware, and fishmongering knives by Pallares Solsona—that aren’t just beautiful but also useful to cooks who actually put their kitchens to work.
Fly fishing may not be top of mind while walking through San Francisco’s Financial District, but fantasies of casting in crystal clear rivers and commencing the day around a campfire are sure to materialize once you step inside Lost Coast Outfitters. The upscale sporting goods store specializes in top-of-the-line fly fishing gear, but shop owner George Revel has an eye for provisions that tug at the inner outdoorsman in all of us, such as indestructible Yeti coolers, leather-trimmed duffle bags from Filson, and classic Simms flannels in timeless red-and-black check. The grand historic Beaux Arts building only adds to the appeal, as does the 300-plus-bottle whiskey collection hidden behind a wall of waders and waterproof booties. Pro tip: Inquire about joining the exclusive Tin Cup Society to gain access to speakers, casting clinics, expeditions, and curated gear packages.
Make your way to the South Bay, baes.
The ever-Instagrammable exhibit heads to the Bay Area for the first time this summer. Spots will sell out quickly, so snag yours now.