St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Until recently, St. Vincent and the Grenadines was a destination known only by the most intrepid vacationers. Because access was limited, few travelers made the difficult journey to this string of 32 islands and cays near the southern end of the Caribbean archipelago. Argyle International Airport official opened in 2017, however, making it significantly easier to discover St. Vincent’s rich history and rugged landscape as well as the Grenadines’ magnificent white-sand beaches, spread out over Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau, Palm Island, Petit St. Vincent, Union Island, and Tobago Cays.

City center of caribbean town  Kingstown, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

Photo by Vadim_N/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to St. Vincent and the Grenadines?

Though the temperature is steady, the humidity fluctuates throughout the year—the wet season runs from June through October, while the dry season goes from mid-November through April or May. That being said, St. Vincent and especially the Grenadines often avoid severe autumn hurricanes. As in the rest of the Caribbean, rates at luxury resorts are highest from December 15 to April 15. However, prices at smaller hotels, inns, and guesthouses usually remain the same year-round. Those looking to plan their visit around special events should consider the Mustique Blues Festival in January, the Bequia Easter Regatta in the spring, or Vincy Mas (St. Vincent’s carnival) in late June and July.

How to get around St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Several airlines offer non-stop flights into St. Vincent’s Argyle International Airport, including Caribbean Airlines (from New York’s JFK), American Airlines (from Miami starting December 15, 2018), and LIAT and SVGAir (from Barbados and St. Lucia). SVGAir also flies daily from St. Vincent to Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, and Union Island.

Ferries travel frequently between St. Vincent and Bequia, with some—including the Jaden Sun fast ferry—continuing on to Canouan, Mayreau, and Union. Additionally, visitors can rent a car on St. Vincent and Bequia, reserve a “mule” (beach buggy) on Mustique, or take a taxi on Canouan and Union Island. The other islands are walkable.

Food and drink to try in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Dining in St. Vincent and the Grenadines is almost always a casual affair, the exception being a handful of high-end resort restaurants, where women don sundresses and men are required to wear long pants and collared shirts. While some large resorts also offer sophisticated international cuisine, the majority of restaurants here focus on fresh-caught fish, lobster in season, local vegetables, and fresh fruit. At small inns and local restaurants, you can also find barbecued or baked chicken, grilled fish, mutton or fish stew, and curried goat, typically accompanied by rice and peas, root vegetables, plantains, green salad, and “bakes” (biscuits). For a snack during the day, pick up a roti (a meat- or vegetable-filled turnover) or some fish and chips.

The official national dish is fried jackfish and roasted breadfruit. A common substitute for potatoes, the ubiquitous breadfruit is also often served mashed, boiled, or even in a salad. Sunset is the local rum brand and Hairoun is the local beer.

Culture in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

St. Vincent has a turbulent history. Carib Indians once controlled the rugged island, thwarting French and English colonization until the 18th century. (On a visit to Fort Charlotte, north of Kingstown, you’ll notice cannons aimed inward, where most Carib attacks originated.) The English ultimately prevailed, taking over the island and forcing the natives into slavery. On the eastern coast near Georgetown, you can still see Black Point Tunnel, where slaves hand-carved a shorter route between the sugar works and the sea.

St. Vincent and the Grenadines earned its independence in 1979. Today, it’s a peaceful nation that enjoys a good party, especially in late June and July when locals come together to celebrate Vincy Mas (St. Vincent’s carnival) with costumes, parades, music, food, and the annual naming of a king and queen.

Can’t miss things to do in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

On St. Vincent, you’ll learn a lot about the nation’s history and people by visiting Fort Charlotte, touring the Botanic Garden, and simply walking around Kingstown. Adventurous visitors can attempt the climb up La Soufrière (the volcano that covers about a third of the island), but everyone should get out on the water and visit the dazzling Grenadines. Each island has a different appeal, but all are ringed with powder-soft, white-sand beaches and an aquamarine sea with gentle surf. Sailing on your own or a chartered sailboat is ideal, but even a ferry ride is a delightful way to spend a day. Highlights include Tobago Cays, Saltwhistle Bay Beach on Mayreau, Basil’s Beach Bar on Mustique, and Port Elizabeth on Bequia.

Local travel tips for St. Vincent and the Grenadines

A Caribbean vacation doesn’t have to break the bank. Of course, there are high-end resorts scattered throughout the Grenadines—including two on privately owned islands and another geared toward the rich, famous, or royal—but those in the know choose from the many family-run hotels, inns, and guesthouses for a truly Caribbean experience. You’ll find the best ones—near a beautiful beach or colorful village—on St. Vincent, Bequia, Mayreau, and Union Island. Also, you don’t need your own yacht to sail around the Grenadines. Ferries are fun, frequent, and inexpensive.

Practical Information

To enter St. Vincent and the Grenadines, U.S., Canadian, and British citizens must present a valid passport and a return or ongoing ticket. The official language is English, and the currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar (with a fixed exchange rate of EC$2.67 per US$1), although hotels, restaurants, and most shops accept U.S. dollars and major credit cards. The electric current is 220–240 volts, but large resorts and even some small hotels are also equipped with 110-volt outlets (U.S. standard).

Guide Editor

A freelance travel writer based in Connecticut, Jane Zarem has been traveling to—and writing about—St. Vincent and the Grenadines since 1995. She authored Fodor’s In Focus: Barbados & St. Lucia (now in its fifth edition) and currently covers several islands for Fodor’s Caribbean. Her travel articles, covering much of the globe, have appeared in various publications over the years, most recently in Rand McNally’s Getaway magazine and its Road Atlas. She is a member of the New York Travel Writers’ Association.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
It’s worth planning an entire trip around Vincy Mas, St. Vincent’s carnival celebration. The event begins in late June and lasts for 12 days, bringing with it costumes, parades, parties, food, competitions, the naming of a “calypso monarch” and “carnival king and queen,” and lots and lots of music, from steel pan to soca and calypso. The biggest parades—Monday morning’s J’Ouvert and Tuesday’s all-day Mardi Gras—take place on the last two days of the festival.
Whether you come for a drink, an appetizer, or a full meal at Flow Wine Bar and Kitchen in downtown Kingstown, you won’t be disappointed. The atmosphere is cool, with flickering candles and soft music, and the kitchen serves a wide range of small plates, entrees, flatbreads, sandwiches, and pastas, all perfect for pairing with the extensive wine selection. When you’re finished here, try sister spots Flowt Beach Bar at the Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina (for cocktails and grilled fare), or Bungalow on the Villa Beach boardwalk (for pizza).
At Paradise Beach Hotel Restaurant on Villa Beach, about 15 minutes south of Kingstown, you can get a meal of local specialties like crab back, Creole chicken, grilled fish, and lobster straight from the holding tank, along with a picture-perfect view of Young Island. There’s live music and dancing several evenings a week, and the Friday night barbecue (called “Grillin’ with the Captain”) is an island tradition.
The waters surrounding Bequia beckon scuba divers with everything from brilliant sponges, colorful fish, and deep-water corals to shallow reefs, sheer walls, caverns, holes, and wrecks. While the area is home to 30 or so easily accessible diving sites, you should head to the designated marine park, which occupies seven miles along Bequia’s leeward coast. Family-run outfitter Dive Bequia (located on Belmont Walkway in Port Elizabeth) offers three dive trips to the park each day, along with instruction, certification, and rental gear. Divers must be at least 8 years old, but snorkelers of all ages are welcome as well.
Among several sea and land excursions, locally owned Fantasea Tours offers full-day whale- and dolphin-watching trips along St. Vincent’s leeward coast. You can expect to see pilot whales, orcas, and several species of dolphins year-round, but the best time to spot them is December through April. Huge sperm whales and humpbacks stop by seasonally, usually from October through January. Regardless of when you go, you can look forward to an exciting, comfortable tour. Fantasea’s staff is extremely knowledgeable, and its boats and equipment meet the highest safety standards.
The Yannis catamaran departs from Palm Island Resort (but will pick up passengers at nearby Union Island as well) for a full day of sailing, swimming, and snorkeling at the beautiful Tobago Cays and Mayreau’s magnificent Salt Whistle Bay Beach. A buffet lunch, beverages, and snorkeling gear are all included, making this one of the easiest ways to see some of the most breathtaking locations in the Grenadines.
One of the five small, uninhabited Tobago Cays in the southern Grenadines, Baradel is home to brilliant white-sand beaches that double as nesting grounds for green sea turtles. On the southeastern shore of the island, there’s even a turtle reserve area, where you can swim alongside the graceful giants in a crystal-clear lagoon.
Ferries between St. Vincent and Bequia run frequently, all day and evening. The one-way trip takes about an hour, and the fare is about $10 each way or $17 round-trip. En route, passengers have breathtaking views in all directions, including volcanic St. Vincent and Kingstown Harbour, Young Island, Mustique and Canouan in the distance, and Bequia’s lovely Port Elizabeth. Once on Bequia, take an island tour, have lunch, go for a swim, or explore Port Elizabeth before heading back to St. Vincent at sunset. If you’re traveling in the other direction, spend the day on St. Vincent walking around historic Kingstown, touring the Botanical Gardens, or hiking the Vermont Nature Trail.
A 100-foot schooner based in Bequia, The Friendship Rose takes passengers on daylong cruises to Tobago Cays for snorkeling and swimming with sea turtles, or Mustique for beaching, bar hopping, and relaxing. Excursions include breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, and drinks throughout the day, including beer, fruit punch, and soft drinks. Whether you opt for the marine park or the private island, the entire family is sure to enjoy the experience.
Mustique has nine magnificent beaches, but Macaroni Beach—an isolated strip on the eastern side of the island—is touted as one of the best in the world. Access is limited to on-island residents and guests, however, as Mustique is virtually private. If you can get here, look forward to a blissfully quiet stretch of sparkling white sand, bordered by lush greenery and bright-blue water.