St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Until recently, St. Vincent and the Grenadines was a destination known only by the most intrepid vacationers. Because access was limited, few travelers made the difficult journey to this string of 32 islands and cays near the southern end of the Caribbean archipelago. Argyle International Airport official opened in 2017, however, making it significantly easier to discover St. Vincent’s rich history and rugged landscape as well as the Grenadines’ magnificent white-sand beaches, spread out over Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau, Palm Island, Petit St. Vincent, Union Island, and Tobago Cays.

City center of caribbean town  Kingstown, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

Photo by Vadim_N/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to St. Vincent and the Grenadines?

Though the temperature is steady, the humidity fluctuates throughout the year—the wet season runs from June through October, while the dry season goes from mid-November through April or May. That being said, St. Vincent and especially the Grenadines often avoid severe autumn hurricanes. As in the rest of the Caribbean, rates at luxury resorts are highest from December 15 to April 15. However, prices at smaller hotels, inns, and guesthouses usually remain the same year-round. Those looking to plan their visit around special events should consider the Mustique Blues Festival in January, the Bequia Easter Regatta in the spring, or Vincy Mas (St. Vincent’s carnival) in late June and July.

How to get around St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Several airlines offer non-stop flights into St. Vincent’s Argyle International Airport, including Caribbean Airlines (from New York’s JFK), American Airlines (from Miami starting December 15, 2018), and LIAT and SVGAir (from Barbados and St. Lucia). SVGAir also flies daily from St. Vincent to Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, and Union Island.

Ferries travel frequently between St. Vincent and Bequia, with some—including the Jaden Sun fast ferry—continuing on to Canouan, Mayreau, and Union. Additionally, visitors can rent a car on St. Vincent and Bequia, reserve a “mule” (beach buggy) on Mustique, or take a taxi on Canouan and Union Island. The other islands are walkable.

Food and drink to try in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Dining in St. Vincent and the Grenadines is almost always a casual affair, the exception being a handful of high-end resort restaurants, where women don sundresses and men are required to wear long pants and collared shirts. While some large resorts also offer sophisticated international cuisine, the majority of restaurants here focus on fresh-caught fish, lobster in season, local vegetables, and fresh fruit. At small inns and local restaurants, you can also find barbecued or baked chicken, grilled fish, mutton or fish stew, and curried goat, typically accompanied by rice and peas, root vegetables, plantains, green salad, and “bakes” (biscuits). For a snack during the day, pick up a roti (a meat- or vegetable-filled turnover) or some fish and chips.

The official national dish is fried jackfish and roasted breadfruit. A common substitute for potatoes, the ubiquitous breadfruit is also often served mashed, boiled, or even in a salad. Sunset is the local rum brand and Hairoun is the local beer.

Culture in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

St. Vincent has a turbulent history. Carib Indians once controlled the rugged island, thwarting French and English colonization until the 18th century. (On a visit to Fort Charlotte, north of Kingstown, you’ll notice cannons aimed inward, where most Carib attacks originated.) The English ultimately prevailed, taking over the island and forcing the natives into slavery. On the eastern coast near Georgetown, you can still see Black Point Tunnel, where slaves hand-carved a shorter route between the sugar works and the sea.

St. Vincent and the Grenadines earned its independence in 1979. Today, it’s a peaceful nation that enjoys a good party, especially in late June and July when locals come together to celebrate Vincy Mas (St. Vincent’s carnival) with costumes, parades, music, food, and the annual naming of a king and queen.

Can’t miss things to do in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

On St. Vincent, you’ll learn a lot about the nation’s history and people by visiting Fort Charlotte, touring the Botanic Garden, and simply walking around Kingstown. Adventurous visitors can attempt the climb up La Soufrière (the volcano that covers about a third of the island), but everyone should get out on the water and visit the dazzling Grenadines. Each island has a different appeal, but all are ringed with powder-soft, white-sand beaches and an aquamarine sea with gentle surf. Sailing on your own or a chartered sailboat is ideal, but even a ferry ride is a delightful way to spend a day. Highlights include Tobago Cays, Saltwhistle Bay Beach on Mayreau, Basil’s Beach Bar on Mustique, and Port Elizabeth on Bequia.

Local travel tips for St. Vincent and the Grenadines

A Caribbean vacation doesn’t have to break the bank. Of course, there are high-end resorts scattered throughout the Grenadines—including two on privately owned islands and another geared toward the rich, famous, or royal—but those in the know choose from the many family-run hotels, inns, and guesthouses for a truly Caribbean experience. You’ll find the best ones—near a beautiful beach or colorful village—on St. Vincent, Bequia, Mayreau, and Union Island. Also, you don’t need your own yacht to sail around the Grenadines. Ferries are fun, frequent, and inexpensive.

Practical Information

To enter St. Vincent and the Grenadines, U.S., Canadian, and British citizens must present a valid passport and a return or ongoing ticket. The official language is English, and the currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar (with a fixed exchange rate of EC$2.67 per US$1), although hotels, restaurants, and most shops accept U.S. dollars and major credit cards. The electric current is 220–240 volts, but large resorts and even some small hotels are also equipped with 110-volt outlets (U.S. standard).

Guide Editor

A freelance travel writer based in Connecticut, Jane Zarem has been traveling to—and writing about—St. Vincent and the Grenadines since 1995. She authored Fodor’s In Focus: Barbados & St. Lucia (now in its fifth edition) and currently covers several islands for Fodor’s Caribbean. Her travel articles, covering much of the globe, have appeared in various publications over the years, most recently in Rand McNally’s Getaway magazine and its Road Atlas. She is a member of the New York Travel Writers’ Association.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
When La Soufrière erupted in 1902, lava flowed down to the sea and created a five-mile-long moonscape on the volcano’s east slope. Today, if you visit during a tropical rain shower, you’ll see the riverbed transform almost immediately from a mere trickle to a gushing stream—and, because of its porous lava base, dry up just as quickly.
If you were to picture the perfect Caribbean beach, it would probably look something like Salt Whistle Bay on Mayreau. Here, clear, turquoise waters lap at 2.5 miles of sparkling white sand, while palm trees, seagrape plants, and flowering bushes provide shady spots for lounging. At one end, you can walk the few yards of land that separate the Caribbean and Atlantic sides of the island. The only catch is that you’ll need a boat to reach the beach, so rent your own or book a day sail to Mayreau.
Deep in the wilderness about an hour’s drive north of Kingstown, Dark View Falls cascade off a cliff and into a pair of natural pools, where everyone gathers to swim in the crisp, clear water. The hike to the falls takes only about 10 to 15 minutes, but involves crossing a jungle-style bamboo bridge across the Richmond River. After passing through a clearing in a picturesque bamboo grove, you’ll arrive at the first fall, where you’ll find a gazebo, changing room, picnic area, and viewing platform for enjoying the beautiful scenery. Another short, more difficult walk will take you up to the second fall, directly above the first.
You’ll likely do your sunbathing and swimming on the white-sand beaches of the Grenadines, but St. Vincent’s black-sand beaches are also quite stunning. In Biabou, for example, along the windward coast south of Georgetown, you can stare for hours at frothy ocean waves crashing onto the volcanic black sand. With luck, you’ll also catch a rainbow.
Locals consider La Soufrière—St. Vincent’s massive active volcano that last erupted in 1979—the “queen of climbs.” Approachable from either the leeward or windward coast, the hike to the 4,000-foot summit is a serious, all-day excursion. You’ll need stamina and sturdy shoes—and a knowledgeable guide from the National Parks Authority—to safely reach the top, but once there you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape and sea. Keep your eyes peeled for a rare sighting of the St. Vincent parrot on the way back down.
On the leeward side of Union Island, remote Chatham Bay Beach—one of a dozen on the island—is a favorite anchorage for boaters, a peaceful spot for sunbathers, and a great location for snorkelers. If you’re coming by land, there’s a trail that leads right down to the beach. There’s also a bar and a couple nearby restaurants should you get hungry from all that relaxing.
While all of the beaches in St. Vincent and the Grenadines are technically public, some of the best ones are accessible only by sea. If you’re lucky enough to be cruising around the Grenadines, be sure to stop for a swim at the beautiful, remote Mahaut Bay Beach on the northern tip of Canouan. You won’t find any restrooms or facilities here but you’ll likely have the beach all to yourself.
Mustique has nine magnificent beaches, but Macaroni Beach—an isolated strip on the eastern side of the island—is touted as one of the best in the world. Access is limited to on-island residents and guests, however, as Mustique is virtually private. If you can get here, look forward to a blissfully quiet stretch of sparkling white sand, bordered by lush greenery and bright-blue water.
The mother church of the Diocese of the Windward Islands, St. George’s Cathedral (also known as Kingstown Anglican Church) was built in 1820 on the site of an earlier church that was destroyed by a hurricane in the late 1700s. It’s the biggest church on the island and features a number of unique adornments, from a gilded wood chandelier to a brass lectern and a circular mahogany pulpit. It’s also home to a stained-glass window gifted by Queen Victoria. As the story goes, the queen initially commissioned the window for St. Paul’s Cathedral in honor of her first grandson but was horrified by the angel’s red robe and immediately sent the window abroad to St. Vincent.
One look at this hilltop fort, perched over the Port of Kingstown, and you know the British built it to fight the locals rather than to meet any threats coming by sea—all the cannons face the island’s rugged interior, where the Caribs lived. Inside the fort, you’ll find a series of murals depicting the bloody Carib wars. Kids will love exploring the old buildings, and everyone will enjoy the views.