Madrid

Madrid, the heart and soul of Spain, conjures swirling wine, salty ham, stomping flamenco boots, and the colorful bravado of bullfights. A cultural epicenter, the city has art that gushes from museums and infuses ancient roads with new breath and life. Madrid is entrenched in tradition, but the people are in constant motion—museum-hopping, street-strolling, tapas-eating, and sangria-drinking. Don’t forget those magical sleepy hours of siesta when a blanket of silence allows the city’s batteries to recharge. Slip into the Madrileño lifestyle, enjoy the lingering moments of each day, and take advantage of every hour of the night.

Madrid at sunrise

Photo by Boris Stroujko/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Madrid?

The sun is nearly always shining in Madrid, which makes it an ideal destination year-round. For a truly local experience, skip August, as many Madrileños shut down their businesses and travel to escape the brutal, dry heat. May 15 marks the anniversary of 15-M, the 2011 student protests against austerity policies, and the whole month is a hotbed of protests, marches, and political demonstrations in the downtown area. This is also when the famous San Isidro bullfights take place, so the city is absolutely bustling.

How to get around Madrid

The unbeatable convenience of the AVE, Europe’s fastest high-speed train, makes traveling across Spain a cinch. For arrivals by air, Madrid Barajas Airport is located in the northeast of the city, and from there it’s a cheap train ride to anywhere in the city. A taxi bank awaits outside the arrivals area, with a €30 fixed fee to get into the city, with a €5.50 supplement (about US$6.25) when leaving the airport. For bus journeys, ALSA is the best for both domestic and international travel from Madrid, but the overnight options tend to be long and punctuated with several stops.

Madrid’s Metro is easily one of the best in the world, covering the entirety of the city with regular service. Employee strikes are becoming more frequent, and this can sometimes lead to 20-minute wait times. On strike days, you’re typically better taking a taxi or pounding the pavement. Don’t dismiss the bus system—it’s one of the better ways to stay above ground and take in more of the city than you thought possible. The Madrid Transport system has a highly functioning website in English, allowing you to plan your public transit easily.

Can’t miss things to do in Madrid

Sunset at Temple de Debod after a ride on the cable cars in the southwest part of the city is one of the most magical experiences you can have in Madrid. The capital sparkles like a jewel under the setting sun, the river gleams below like a gold necklace, and you are sailing above the city.

Food and drink to try in Madrid

A foodie haven, Madrid is home to fabulous ham, cheeses, wines, and desserts all served in places packed with character. The eyes of the culinary world in Madrid are focused on the future—expect to see many fusion restaurants and unique takes on Iberian classics. The Spanish tradition of tapas is alive and well, and the smaller portions allow diners to sample all the famous food and drinks—jamon serrano, paella, gazpacho, riojas, and riberas—without busting the belt.

The Tavernas and Tapas walking tour, organized by AFAR’s travel partner, Context, and led by either a culinary expert or a chef, explores all the tasty angles of Madrid’s tapas food culture.

Culture in Madrid

From flamenco and soccer to bullfighting and ham, Madrid has a proud tradition of culture seeping from every corner of the city. Hemingway’s haunts dot the trails of downtown, and the tapas and beer spill out into the streets, begging you to stop and spend a moment soaking in Madrid.

Epiphany, in early January, is Spain’s favorite holiday, when presents and parades abound in the city. The entire downtown closes to enjoy and participate in the parade, while the Three Kings throw candy to the cheering crowd. To see the real spirit of Madrid, visit in mid-May when the San Isidro festival transforms the city into an earlier version of itself. Everyone, young and old, dresses in traditional Madrileño costumes and dances the night away in the San Isidro neighborhood. This is also when the famous San Isidro bullfights are held at Las Ventas arena, and the city pulses with energy.

Local travel tips for Madrid

- Except in downtown Puerta del Sol, the siesta is alive and well and is taken anywhere from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Live like a local, plan your shopping accordingly, and enjoy the silence of the city in these hours.
Tranquilo (think tranquil) means “to calm yourself” and is the motto of the Spanish lifestyle. Service may be a bit slower here, but enjoy the ride, shrug your shoulders, and indulge in people watching. There is no rush.
- Tipping is not customary at most restaurants. If your service was exceptional, by all means show your gratitude, but for most occasions simply leaving the change (under 1 euro) and departing with Gracias (“thank you,” pronounced gra-thee-ahs) is appreciated. Of course, this does not apply to high-end venues, where tipping norms are adhered to.
- Look out for the lisp! Madrileños (locals) have a heavy lisp and speak at lightning speed, usually only pausing to roll their eyes or light a cigarette. Don’t be disheartened if you cannot understand them. Just join in and say vale (vah-lay), which means “okay.”

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
Try local flavors in the highly walkable Madrid de Los Austrias, an underrated cultural district that’s one of Madrid’s first neighborhoods.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Parque de Oueste is a shady park toward the north of the city. The park is known for its rose gardens, as well as being home to the Temple of Debod, a gift for the Egyptian state in 1968. The overlook of the park offers beautiful views of the Royal Palace and the larger Casa Del Campo. It’s an ideal spot to split a bottle of wine with friends and watch the sunset after a long day of exploring Madrid.
Though toma means “take it” in Spanish, this intimate cafe offers far more than takeaway service. Toma’s staff are able to interact with customers while showing off their impressive coffee knowledge (as well as English language prowess). Homemade pastries, cookies, and cakes are available, with some gluten-free options. The current consensus around town is that Toma Café has the best staff, bean sourcing, and know-how on pulling a proper shot. Best coffee in a city of coffee drinkers is a mighty statement, but I’ll stand behind it.
One of the most traditional restaurants in Madrid with lovely, attentive waitstaff, and ambiance that is reminiscent of old Madrid. Heavy curtains pulled to the side reveal massive oil paintings next to ornate gold carved light posts which stud the walls. The menu fluctuates with the season and local offerings, but some standards always remain: their most popular being cochinillo (roast suckling pig) and the lamb. When I last visited, I had the broken eggs as an appetizer and they were the best of my life. But, what stole the show was the sommelier who navigated us through the wine list (over 1000 labels) from Verdejo to Vermouth and back again. Dress your best, it’s not unusual to mingle with the highest of Madrid’s society here! Image courtesy of Zalacain.
Madrid’s Prado Museum, home to Goya, Velazquez, Murillo, El Greco, and numerous other greats, has so much to see that just one visit isn’t enough! If you have a few days in Madrid, drop into the museum in the afternoons (after 5pm) when there is no charge, rather than attempting to see the entire collection in one visit. If you only have time for one trip to the museum, stop by the gift shop to pick up a mini guide, which serves as cheat cheat to the museum’s highlights. Photo by vanOrt/Flickr.
The Museum of Ham, Museo del Jamon has a hold on the heart of Madrid. The excellent prices, large spaces, and convenient hours of operation mean that the Museo is nearly always packed after working hours. Feel like a local, and push your way to the bar to order a caña (small beer) and tapa. While the chain’s food is nothing out of the ordinary, it’s the feeling of being one with the locals that makes a visit to the museum fun. Image courtesy of Museo del Jamon.
Madrid born and bred, DiverXO’s owner David Muñoz, has taken the food scene by storm. His schooling in Asian cuisine melds with his Spanish roots and has given birth to fusion food from the artist’s soul. It’s not uncommon to see smoked sardines lay next to young coconut on the same platter, bringing two culinary worlds together. Each dining experience starts with a letter of intention, a poem of sorts, from Muñoz stating his intention behind preparation of your meal -- and then you eat the menu itself as a fanciful starter! It’s best to get a reservation ASAP, with three Michelin stars, DiverXO is almost always booked!
I just love going to The Casino, every time I walk through the doors, I can’t help but feel that I am a character in Alice in Wonderland’s tea party, except I’m not. I am in a private rooftop club in downtown Madrid, and that’s even more outstanding. The Club began in 1836 with a group of romantic, liberal friends seeking to create their own haven. Now they open the doors to the public to enjoy an exceptional dining venue and ambiance. The tasting menu is 15 courses and will take you on a gastronomical journey that you will never forget. The wine menu is more of a book, and the service is so on point it makes you wonder if they are reading your mind. At this “Casino”, everyone hits the jackpot! Photo by PromoMadrid/Flickr.
What is more romantic than an intricate and well-used Spanish fan? Fans are a highly personal item, and like perfume, one should only use the best they can find (or so my mother always said). For the royal minded there is only one choice, Casa de Diego. Founded in 1858, this a business steeped in international approval, and the generations have been privileged to create masterpiece shawls, umbrellas, and of course fans for royal families all over the world. Proudly facing the Puerta del Sol is the window display of fans, giving only a glimmer into the magic on the other side of the doors. Right outside is the hustle and bustle of city center, but inside the shop you are transported to a haven of beauty. Take home a piece of Spanish tradition with you, and smile every time you fan yourself, remembering Madrid.
Cheese connoisseurs, welcome to heaven. Casa Gonzalez has been serving up the widest selection of queso (cheese) with an authentic flair for years. The wine list does not disappoint and somehow the service is always smiling, even when the bar is packed. If you’re not a cheese lover, fret not, there is an assortment of Iberico meats on offer, tapas, and even their olive oil toast is delicious. Expect it to be busy on weekends, as the central location makes it a prime hangout for many Madrileños.
Madrid’s largest park, named after King Juan Carlos I, is a short metro ride from downtown, but from the moment you leave the station you feel as though you’ve been transported to a faraway land of fairy tales. Giant sculptures decorate the massive grounds, with dedications to Galileo, victims of the Holocaust, and world peace, respectively. If the weather is fair, there is a free train which offers rides every hour on the hour around the entire park—the only way you can see the whole place in a day!