Puerto Rico

Close your eyes and imagine a tropical island where the sun paints a watercolor palette across the sky, and birds and frogs sing you to sleep. You wake to a turquoise-blue ocean at your feet. You sip water from a fresh coconut and snack on seafood-filled empanadillas. You’re envisioning the Caribbean island of Puerto Rico—the island of enchantment, with a rich cultural history and geography begging to be explored. The wonders of this island can only be described by the phrase, “the heart and soul of the Caribbean.”

Two buildings in Puerto Rico. On the left, a pink building with white tripm and on the right an art-deco style blue building with a person passing by on a bike.

Photos by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Puerto Rico?

The best time to visit Puerto Rico depends on your island agenda. The “tourist” season is fall/winter (end of October through April) when waves on the west coast beckon to surfers and the tropical rain forests come to life. The beaches will be more crowded, but all the shops, restaurants, bars, and hotels are in full swing. Everything the island has to offer is at your fingertips. Summer is also a great time if you would like to just relax without all the nightlife and day trips. If you want the beach to yourself—plus a few vacationing Puerto Ricans—then head down between May and August for seclusion, but be aware these are also the hottest months of the year.

How to get around Puerto Rico

You have two options for travel to the island—airplane or cruise ship. The cruise ships stop at San Juan, a must-see city destination (though to really experience the island, you must travel beyond the capital). SJU is the biggest and most modern airport in the Caribbean. From the East Coast of the U.S. mainland, try JetBlue, Spirit, or Southwest. From everywhere else, there is Delta, American, or United. A perk for U.S. citizens: This is a passport-free destination.

For daytime travel, public transit services exist within individual cities, but they are limited. Taxis are clean and reliable—look for white cabs with Taxi Turístico on the front doors. The shared cab (public) system goes around the island for a small fare, but it takes a long time due to the numerous stops along the way. Rideshares like Uber are available in various towns, especially those close to the metropolitan region.

Most travelers rent a car for the duration of their stay. The currency is U.S. dollars, and the road system resembles that of the mainland. There are two exceptions: Distances are measured in kilometers, while speed is measured in miles per hour. Additionally, gas is represented in liters, and prices are competitive with those on the mainland. One roadway custom worth mentioning is that police and ambulances drive with their lights flashing. Still, unless they also blast their sirens, there’s no need to pull over or move aside.

Can’t miss things to do in Puerto Rico

Visit the Cueva Ventana cave in Arecibo. A short trail takes you through two natural caves, climbing down under the roots of a tree and opening up to the mouth of another cave that expands to show you a picturesque view of the center of the island. It’s breathtaking.

Another must-see place is El Yunque National Forest, the only subtropical rain forest in the U.S. Forest Service. Become one with nature as you wander through the walking trails and explore the mesmerizing waterfalls, as well as the endemic flora and fauna.

You can’t leave the island without experiencing the enchantment of a bioluminescent bay. There are only five in the world, and Puerto Rico is home to three—including the brightest one: Mosquito Bay in Vieques. Kayak through the glow-in-the-dark, shimmery water for a magical, one-of-a-kind adventure.

Food and drink to try in Puerto Rico

Local cuisine is available on every corner, along every major road, and at all places in between. This is the best island for people who are always hungry—there is something to eat, everywhere! Puerto Rican cuisine is varied but full of staple, hearty dishes. The most famous one is mofongo, made of deep-fried mashed plantains and served with a side of seafood or meat. And of course, you can always accompany any dish with a side of abuelita’s-style rice and beans.

Pinchos and empanadillas are roadside favorites, and it’s easy to tell which spots the locals love because the lines will be long and the stands sell out early. It’s worth trying a few during your stay, as each place will have its spin on a classic dish. You can also find Thai, sushi, continental, Mexican, Indian, German, and Italian cuisine in various cities around the island.

Culture in Puerto Rico

The island was called “Borinquén” before the Spanish arrived; they changed the name to Puerto Rico. (The burial ground of the Spanish conquistador and first governor Juan Ponce de León is said to be in San Juan.) You might hear native-born Puerto Ricans refer to themselves as “Boricua,” derived from the original island name. The indigenous Taíno people were present when the Spanish came, and Africans were brought to the island by the conquistadores. The mix of these three cultures gave way to a new identity: Puerto Ricans. There are Puerto Ricans alive now who are distant relatives of the original islanders. You can still find well-preserved pictographs of Taíno artwork in caves and rocks and visit towns like Loíza, which preserve the African heritage today

Local festivals are worth attending to give you an authentic taste of Puerto Rican customs and lifestyle. If you’re interested in food, visit the National Plantain Festival in Corozal (October), Saborea Puerto Rico at Escambrón Beach (May), and the Coffee and Chocolate Expo in San Juan (September). For culture, try the Hatillo Masks Festival in Hatillo (December) or the Rincon International Film Festival, Puerto Rico’s largest film festival (April). And for the biggest street party of the year, come experience the Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián in San Juan, commonly referred to as “la SanSe, ” celebrating St. Sebastian, in January. To find more festivals, just ask the locals. Puerto Ricans always know where to find the party.

Local travel tips for Puerto Rico

While GPS systems work fine on the island, the perfect navigation set for any local is . . . the Puerto Rican GPS. Stop anywhere in town and ask any local for directions, but it’s best to speak in Spanish.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
Timeless icons, next-gen retreats, and private island hideaways—this is the Caribbean at its finest.
They’re also kind to the Earth.
Whether you’re traveling with toddlers, teens, grandparents, or in-laws, these Caribbean retreats offer a balance of ocean and cultural adventures, plus endless opportunities for play.
High up in the mountains, at a place called El Pretexto, Crystal Díaz has made a B&B we wish we could call home.
The growing number of green properties on this tropical island make it a natural choice for blissed-out wellness retreats—and an emerging sustainability leader.
When you’re ready to travel, these lodgings offer a quintessential island escape.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
I’m not sure exactly how Rainbow Beach got its name, though I wouldn’t be surprised if it actually had a lot to do with rain. The island’s most popular beach bar, especially on Sundays, is centrally located on St. Croix’s West Coast, some of the island’s tallest peaks and dense rainforest just a few miles behind it. Prevailing weather patterns, particularly during the summer months, make brief afternoon showers a fairly regular occurrence here. That doesn’t stop the party, though. Live bands play on and everyone keeps dancing. When you’re already wet from the sea and feeling the vibes, a little rain doesn’t hurt one bit.
Wherever your travels may take you around the world whenever you ever see anyone sporting this distinct hook bracelet, you’ll know they possess a special place in their heart occupied by the island of St. Croix. There are many, many imitations and evolutions of the Crucian hook bracelet (some better than others), but this is the original and, in my opinion, only truly authentic version. Pick one up and Sonya’s, wear it wherever you go and you’ll be surprised how many new friends you make.
At Point Udall, on the east coast of St. Croix, a sundial called Millennium Monument was erected for the New Year’s celebration in 2000. The stark sculpture represents the azimuth of the first sunrise of that year, the new millennium, at this easternmost point of the United States. Point Udall also affords visitors panoramic views and marks the starting point of a hike that leads to the beach at Isaac Bay.
This three-mile beach, located near Frederiksted at the southwest end of St. Croix, is the longest in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Part of the 380-acre Sandy Point Wildlife Preserve, the beach is an important nesting area for the endangered leatherback turtle. Beach access is via a dirt road, open Saturdays and Sundays. The beach may be closed during turtle-nesting season, from March to August, so check with your hotel before you make the trek.
This is it. The moment you arrive on-island, do not pass go, do not collect $200 — just get yourself to the La Reine Chicken Shack to immediately immerse yourself in the uniquely local St. Croix vibe. No, this is not haute cuisine, this isn’t even a nice looking place, but what it is is an institution sporting the best BBQ chicken on island. Everyone eats here from senators to sanitation workers and all walks of life in between. On Sunday’s you can even expect some roast pork added to the menu. Whatever you order, you won’t go wrong pairing your styrofoam wrapped meal with a nice rum & Coke!
We found the best spot for the freshest açai bowl on the west coast of Puerto Rico. Da Bowls in Aguadilla beats anything in Rincon or anywhere else on the island. Mix and match your own, or go with their selection. We chose the Reef Bowl, which has a bit of everything—including the health-crazed addition of bee pollen. With a price that fits your budget and enough food to fill your stomach, this is the best place for a quick and healthy snack.
Pristine, untouched and unforgettable: There’s no other way to describe this natural park just off the northeast coast of St. Croix. Walking trails crisscross the expanse through frangipani and tamarind trees and cacti to beautiful beaches. Turtle Bay, on the western side, wows with its magnificent snorkeling; the protected waters and massive coral reef are home to more than 250 kinds of fish. Admission numbers are limited each day; advance booking is required.

This beautiful one-mile stretch was donated to the people of the Virgin Islands by Arthur Fairchild, a benefactor of the islands who’d made his fortune on Wall Street before retiring here. The usually calm waters of the heart-shaped bay make the beach the most popular on St. Thomas. Rent beach chairs and floats, and pick up lunch from stands selling burgers, pizza, and other snacks. Lifeguards are on duty every day.
Suppose I told you there was a small, remarkably idyllic and fairly unpopulated island in the Caribbean just a short distance from the mainland United States, an island so immaculate, plans were in the works to make it a National Wildlife Refuge, an island with a beach rated one of the best beaches in the world, an island where you could basically do whatever you wanted along its iridescent shores with little chance of being interrupted by prying eyes.... What’s the first thing you’d do? Well, if you were the U.S. military back in 1901 and the destination in question was the island of Culebra, you’d blow it all to hell! For nearly 75 years, bombs pounded Flamenco Beach on Culebra, la “Última Virgen,” while the U.S. military used it for target practice. Protests drove the Navy away, but some relics remain on the once pristine sands as a reminder of how never to treat one of the best strips of beach in the world. During the weekends, Flamenco Beach can get fairly crowded with “mainland” Puerto Ricans taking the ferry over for a day in the sun, so I recommend you make time during the week for a more secluded experience. There are vendors nearby, but not too near, to make your stay a pleasant one with local cuisine and plenty of ice-cold beer.
Many islands have laws with steep fines against wearing beach wear when not on the sandy shoreline and while you may have heard of folks going au-naturel on St. Martin, that’s certainly not the norm throughout the region. On St. John, however, things were a little different. About a mile walk from a parking lot on the edge of Cruz Bay along what’s called the Lind Point Trail, through typical island bush and over a hill and down through more bush past a fork (where either choice gets you to the same place) intrepid travelers are rewarded with a tiny strip of sand, only around 25 yards long, unofficially known as the island’s only nude beach: Salomon Beach. I’ve been to this secluded sandy alcove a number of times and without fail the maximum number of sun worshipers was never above four or five. In fact, most times, the beach was deserted. So, for years this is where those with a passion for enjoying nature to the fullest could go to let it all hang out in relative privacy… Until recently. Since my last trip to Salomon Beach back in 2007, there’s been a crackdown on this unofficial naturist haven. Suddenly being a free spirit isn’t so free due to the stiffness of fines—around $110 for those caught with their pants down (so to speak). But, hey, doesn’t mean you can’t press your luck!