U.S. Virgin Islands

The United States Virgin Islands are justifiably called “America’s Paradise,” but they’re still a far cry from the mainland. You can find standard U.S. conveniences across the three main islands—St. Croix, St. Thomas, and St. John—but many come with a unique island twist. Cars drive on the left in this former Danish colony; wild donkeys roam freely on St. John; old pirates are celebrated like national heroes on St. Thomas; and the pigs on St. Croix drink beer! Each of these colorful, distinctive islands offers much more than just sun, sand, and sea—though it’s hard to find more spectacular beaches anywhere else in the world.

View of Trunk Bay Beach in U.S. Virgin Islands

Photo by Susan Santa Maria/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to U.S. Virgin Islands?

Daily temperatures average between 77 and 83 degrees Fahrenheit year-round, so it’s almost always the right time to escape to the USVI for sunny weather. Check the forecast before you go, however. Hurricane season runs from early May to late November, and the peak storm season pummels the islands from August to October.

How to get around U.S. Virgin Islands

Like many Caribbean destinations, the USVI is well-served by major U.S. airlines. Stateside visitors enjoy daily nonstop flights from at least twelve U.S. cities, and connecting flights are usually available through San Juan in Puerto RIco. Note that no passport is required for U.S. citizens to visit the USVI. This goes for cruise lovers, too: every major cruise line calls on St. Thomas, one of the busiest cruise ports in the Caribbean.

The USVI is also ideal for visitor exploration: well-marked roads and popular rental car brands make things easy. Note that cars drive on the left! Taxis can be expensive, and there is no Uber. Island hopping is easy, with hourly ferry service between St. Thomas and St. John. A new ferry now connects St. Thomas and St. Croix, though the Seaplane flights operated by Seaborne Airlines may leave you with more thrilling memories.

Food and drink to try in U.S. Virgin Islands

Gastronomy in the USVI reflects the colorful hodgepodge of cultures that has coalesced here over the generations. African, Danish, and French influences from the colonial era mix with more recent infusions of American, Spanish, and Middle Eastern traditions, keeping this Caribbean melting pot percolating with ever-more-inventive culinary delights. To eat like an islander, look for USVI favorites like fish and fungi, souse, Johnnycakes, oxtail, pâtés, and curries at roadside food trucks and local eateries. You can find international wines and island-inspired beers—but the main alcoholic drink here is rum, and the popular Cruzan brand is distilled in St. Croix.

Culture in U.S. Virgin Islands

The local music, dancing, and storytelling traditions in the USVI are a mash-up of African and European influences, with roots tracing back to colonial times. Scratch bands play quelbe music with improvised instruments ranging from a squash to a car exhaust pipe—an experience worth seeking out, especially if you get to hear them accompanying a European-inspired quadrille dance performance. Look also for “moko jumbies": stilt dancers in festive garb that are present at various festivals and are said to chase away evil spirits. St. Thomas is also home to one of the oldest synagogues in the Western Hemisphere.

Each of the three main islands harbors a unique blend of heritage, and the USVI is always hopping with festivals. Attend one of the colorful Carnival celebrations for a unique Caribbean extravaganza: in St. Thomas in the spring, St. John around the 4th of July, and St. Croix in December. St. Croix also plays host to one of the Caribbean’s wildest St. Patrick’s Day parades, combining elements of traditional West Indian carnival with a healthy dose of Irish charm. In April, foodies can see firsthand why the annual St. Croix Food & Wine Festival ranks among the Caribbean’s top gourmet events.

Local travel tips for U.S. Virgin Islands

Each of the three main U.S. Virgin Islands has its own distinctive character. St. Thomas is the most cosmopolitan: the capital city, Charlotte Amalie, is always bustling with activity. St. John is almost pure nature, with two-thirds of the island’s landmass set aside in a national park. St. Croix, the largest of the three islands, is the perfect combination of the two.

Guide Editor

Steve Bennett is PR guy by trade, West Indian by birth, Steve is co-founder, editorial director, and principal voice of Uncommon Caribbean.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
Held every Presidents’ Day weekend, St. Croix’s agricultural fair celebrates farming heritage with performances, rare foods, and a homecoming spirit.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Often called one of the world’s most beautiful beaches, Trunk Bay is a crescent of snow-white sand with a small green islet on the north side of the aquamarine lagoon. Part of the Virgin Islands National Park, Trunk Bay is known for its underwater snorkeling trail. Submerged signs along the trail describe the corals, tropical fish and other marine life found within the bay. Visitors can rent snorkeling gear on the beach, and lifeguards are in attendance.

The serenity of the Meiji Jingu Shrine is a notable contrast to the crowds of Harajuku hipsters just beyond the giant torii gates. The Shinto shrine complex, which was dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken in 1920, is inside a forest that shuts out the noise and energy of the city. This temple is a popular site for celebratory events such as weddings and children’s festivals, so chances are good that visitors will happen upon families dressed up in traditional kimonos.
We hopped in a pick-up truck with a bench in the back (aka a Caribbean taxi) & headed toward Honeymoon Beach, St. John. I never would have discovered this hidden beach if it weren’t for the wonders of social media, but thank goodness I did, as it’s possibly the most pristine stretch of sand I’ve ever seen. After a short walk down a dirt road, we arrived at the beach - nearly empty, despite the fact that it was spring break season. Virgin Islands Ecotours has a small stand there where a $49 day pass gets you snorkeling equipment, kayaks, stand up paddle boards, floats & beach chairs. We grabbed a tandem sit-on-top kayak & headed out into the pristine blue water. We paddled up & down the shore, exploring the waters near Caneel Bay Resort, admiring beautiful 50′ sailboats, checking out the National Park Service Head Ranger’s house & beaching our boat on Saloman Beach, where a friendly hiker helped pull us in. Before long, I could feel my legs beginning to get sun burned (& oh did they burn!) under the strong Caribbean sun & we decided it was time for a swim. Decked out in our snorkel, masks, fins & lifejackets, we snorkeled over to some rocks, where we explored the coral reef hand-in-hand. We saw a lot of black & white fish & a few sting rays. We swam back to the beach & lounged for a while before heading back out to snorkel where we saw sea turtles!
One of the island’s best lookouts, Drake’s Seat offers a panoramic view of Magens Bay and the U.S. and British Virgin Islands to the east. The site is named for Sir Francis Drake, who is said to have kept watch over the harbor from this vantage point. (Was Drake benevolently watching over his own fleet or looking for ships to plunder? The answer will depend on whether you subscribe to the British’s regard of him as a celebrated explorer or to others’ belief that he was a brutal privateer.)
Because it’s a major cruise port there are plenty of tacky restaurants on St. Thomas, but it doesn’t take a lot of effort to get under the skin of the island and find places where the locals eat. One such restaurant, Gladys’ Cafe, serves up traditional Caribbean fare and is known as one of the best on the island. Skip the a la carte menu and instead get one of the lunch plates including curried chicken or goat served with red beans and rice, mac and cheese and fried plantains.
Sometimes you have to be a tourist to enjoy the great pleasures that travel offers. That’s why a visit to Mountain Top on St. Thomas is a must-do activity for any visitor. In 1949, a British restaurateur began a mission to develop the best Caribbean libation. He finally settled on the now-famous banana daiquiri, which he first mixed on St. Thomas. The drink is still served up daily using the original ingredients at Mountain Top, an emporium of souvenirs and kitsch. Just walk through the mountains of t-shirts to enjoy both the drink and, honestly, one of the best views on the island.
One of the great things about the Caribbean is that its rich history was often written at beautiful, easily accessible locations. One of the best places to learn a bit of that history is pictured above. That’s the beach at Columbus Landing in my home island of St. Croix. It was here, in 1493, that Columbus sent ashore a small contingent of his men to scout for fresh water. What they found instead were a group of Indians who weren’t too keen on visitors. What’s the whole story of Columbus and his less than stellar (to say the least) track record throughout the region? That may take a bit more book learning, but feeling what these new visitors may have felt coming ashore in this corner of paradise starts on these sands.
Rum is the Caribbean’s signature spirit, its production documented in the region since colonial times. Just as there are dozens of varieties of rum, Caribbean travelers can select from a wide variety of rum distillery tours. The one offered at Cruzan Rum Distillery highlights the rum-making prowess of the 19th-century Nelthropp family, considered Cruzan rum royalty by many. The Nelthropp family endeavored to craft a spirit incorporating the “warm, tropical breezes that circulate through the open-air warehouses of the distillery.” A sip after your tour will allow you to judge whether they managed to capture St. Croix in a bottle.
I have to admit, I didn’t want to like this place. I used to come to this location (previously known as Smokey’s) for years to eat great local food and enjoy a laid back vibe... While getting gas, of course. But then the previous West Indian owner moved away to Antigua only to be replaced by a statesider. I thought my days of liming at the solitude gas station with so many other locals and eating great West Indian fare were over. I couldn’t have been more wrong. I’d say the new owner has gone out of his way to make Ziggy’s an active and positive member of the local community, but everything he’s done just has this natural feel to it. Like he’s not even trying, he just IS a part of the community. Local foods like roti, johnny cake, and more still find their home at Ziggy’s. Plus now they’re accompanied by frequent charity events, eating contests, concerts, and even dance competitions... All at an awesome gas station. It may seem odd to suggest stopping by a gas station, but you’d be missing a great new addition to Crucian life without a visit to this libation station.
I’m not sure exactly how Rainbow Beach got its name, though I wouldn’t be surprised if it actually had a lot to do with rain. The island’s most popular beach bar, especially on Sundays, is centrally located on St. Croix’s West Coast, some of the island’s tallest peaks and dense rainforest just a few miles behind it. Prevailing weather patterns, particularly during the summer months, make brief afternoon showers a fairly regular occurrence here. That doesn’t stop the party, though. Live bands play on and everyone keeps dancing. When you’re already wet from the sea and feeling the vibes, a little rain doesn’t hurt one bit.