Puerto Rico

Close your eyes and imagine a tropical island where the sun paints a watercolor palette across the sky, and birds and frogs sing you to sleep. You wake to a turquoise-blue ocean at your feet. You sip water from a fresh coconut and snack on seafood-filled empanadillas. You’re envisioning the Caribbean island of Puerto Rico—the island of enchantment, with a rich cultural history and geography begging to be explored. The wonders of this island can only be described by the phrase, “the heart and soul of the Caribbean.”

Two buildings in Puerto Rico. On the left, a pink building with white tripm and on the right an art-deco style blue building with a person passing by on a bike.

Photos by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Puerto Rico?

The best time to visit Puerto Rico depends on your island agenda. The “tourist” season is fall/winter (end of October through April) when waves on the west coast beckon to surfers and the tropical rain forests come to life. The beaches will be more crowded, but all the shops, restaurants, bars, and hotels are in full swing. Everything the island has to offer is at your fingertips. Summer is also a great time if you would like to just relax without all the nightlife and day trips. If you want the beach to yourself—plus a few vacationing Puerto Ricans—then head down between May and August for seclusion, but be aware these are also the hottest months of the year.

How to get around Puerto Rico

You have two options for travel to the island—airplane or cruise ship. The cruise ships stop at San Juan, a must-see city destination (though to really experience the island, you must travel beyond the capital). SJU is the biggest and most modern airport in the Caribbean. From the East Coast of the U.S. mainland, try JetBlue, Spirit, or Southwest. From everywhere else, there is Delta, American, or United. A perk for U.S. citizens: This is a passport-free destination.

For daytime travel, public transit services exist within individual cities, but they are limited. Taxis are clean and reliable—look for white cabs with Taxi Turístico on the front doors. The shared cab (public) system goes around the island for a small fare, but it takes a long time due to the numerous stops along the way. Rideshares like Uber are available in various towns, especially those close to the metropolitan region.

Most travelers rent a car for the duration of their stay. The currency is U.S. dollars, and the road system resembles that of the mainland. There are two exceptions: Distances are measured in kilometers, while speed is measured in miles per hour. Additionally, gas is represented in liters, and prices are competitive with those on the mainland. One roadway custom worth mentioning is that police and ambulances drive with their lights flashing. Still, unless they also blast their sirens, there’s no need to pull over or move aside.

Can’t miss things to do in Puerto Rico

Visit the Cueva Ventana cave in Arecibo. A short trail takes you through two natural caves, climbing down under the roots of a tree and opening up to the mouth of another cave that expands to show you a picturesque view of the center of the island. It’s breathtaking.

Another must-see place is El Yunque National Forest, the only subtropical rain forest in the U.S. Forest Service. Become one with nature as you wander through the walking trails and explore the mesmerizing waterfalls, as well as the endemic flora and fauna.

You can’t leave the island without experiencing the enchantment of a bioluminescent bay. There are only five in the world, and Puerto Rico is home to three—including the brightest one: Mosquito Bay in Vieques. Kayak through the glow-in-the-dark, shimmery water for a magical, one-of-a-kind adventure.

Food and drink to try in Puerto Rico

Local cuisine is available on every corner, along every major road, and at all places in between. This is the best island for people who are always hungry—there is something to eat, everywhere! Puerto Rican cuisine is varied but full of staple, hearty dishes. The most famous one is mofongo, made of deep-fried mashed plantains and served with a side of seafood or meat. And of course, you can always accompany any dish with a side of abuelita’s-style rice and beans.

Pinchos and empanadillas are roadside favorites, and it’s easy to tell which spots the locals love because the lines will be long and the stands sell out early. It’s worth trying a few during your stay, as each place will have its spin on a classic dish. You can also find Thai, sushi, continental, Mexican, Indian, German, and Italian cuisine in various cities around the island.

Culture in Puerto Rico

The island was called “Borinquén” before the Spanish arrived; they changed the name to Puerto Rico. (The burial ground of the Spanish conquistador and first governor Juan Ponce de León is said to be in San Juan.) You might hear native-born Puerto Ricans refer to themselves as “Boricua,” derived from the original island name. The indigenous Taíno people were present when the Spanish came, and Africans were brought to the island by the conquistadores. The mix of these three cultures gave way to a new identity: Puerto Ricans. There are Puerto Ricans alive now who are distant relatives of the original islanders. You can still find well-preserved pictographs of Taíno artwork in caves and rocks and visit towns like Loíza, which preserve the African heritage today

Local festivals are worth attending to give you an authentic taste of Puerto Rican customs and lifestyle. If you’re interested in food, visit the National Plantain Festival in Corozal (October), Saborea Puerto Rico at Escambrón Beach (May), and the Coffee and Chocolate Expo in San Juan (September). For culture, try the Hatillo Masks Festival in Hatillo (December) or the Rincon International Film Festival, Puerto Rico’s largest film festival (April). And for the biggest street party of the year, come experience the Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián in San Juan, commonly referred to as “la SanSe, ” celebrating St. Sebastian, in January. To find more festivals, just ask the locals. Puerto Ricans always know where to find the party.

Local travel tips for Puerto Rico

While GPS systems work fine on the island, the perfect navigation set for any local is . . . the Puerto Rican GPS. Stop anywhere in town and ask any local for directions, but it’s best to speak in Spanish.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Suppose I told you there was a small, remarkably idyllic and fairly unpopulated island in the Caribbean just a short distance from the mainland United States, an island so immaculate, plans were in the works to make it a National Wildlife Refuge, an island with a beach rated one of the best beaches in the world, an island where you could basically do whatever you wanted along its iridescent shores with little chance of being interrupted by prying eyes.... What’s the first thing you’d do? Well, if you were the U.S. military back in 1901 and the destination in question was the island of Culebra, you’d blow it all to hell! For nearly 75 years, bombs pounded Flamenco Beach on Culebra, la “Última Virgen,” while the U.S. military used it for target practice. Protests drove the Navy away, but some relics remain on the once pristine sands as a reminder of how never to treat one of the best strips of beach in the world. During the weekends, Flamenco Beach can get fairly crowded with “mainland” Puerto Ricans taking the ferry over for a day in the sun, so I recommend you make time during the week for a more secluded experience. There are vendors nearby, but not too near, to make your stay a pleasant one with local cuisine and plenty of ice-cold beer.
Many islands have laws with steep fines against wearing beach wear when not on the sandy shoreline and while you may have heard of folks going au-naturel on St. Martin, that’s certainly not the norm throughout the region. On St. John, however, things were a little different. About a mile walk from a parking lot on the edge of Cruz Bay along what’s called the Lind Point Trail, through typical island bush and over a hill and down through more bush past a fork (where either choice gets you to the same place) intrepid travelers are rewarded with a tiny strip of sand, only around 25 yards long, unofficially known as the island’s only nude beach: Salomon Beach. I’ve been to this secluded sandy alcove a number of times and without fail the maximum number of sun worshipers was never above four or five. In fact, most times, the beach was deserted. So, for years this is where those with a passion for enjoying nature to the fullest could go to let it all hang out in relative privacy… Until recently. Since my last trip to Salomon Beach back in 2007, there’s been a crackdown on this unofficial naturist haven. Suddenly being a free spirit isn’t so free due to the stiffness of fines—around $110 for those caught with their pants down (so to speak). But, hey, doesn’t mean you can’t press your luck!
This property is closed through 2019 for repairs made necessary by hurricanes Irma and Maria.

Caneel Bay, one of the island’s more secluded and protected bays, is home to Caneel Bay Resort, a historic luxury hotel founded by Laurance Rockefeller. After opening the resort in 1956, Rockefeller donated the land on which it lies to become the Virgin Islands National Park, which covers about 60 percent of the island. Day-trippers can easily reach Caneel Bay by taxi from Cruz Bay. The resort has no fewer than seven beaches, including Honeymoon Beach, a short hike away. Come here to relax on the main beach, book water sports at the diving and snorkeling center and have lunch at the hotel restaurant.

One of my favorite dive sites on the west coast of Puerto Rico is Crashboat in Aguadilla. This shore dive is easily accessible for all levels of diving, and you’re guaranteed to see something amazing on this artificial structure. Crashboat is named for this once Air Force based marina, where the “crashboats” would deploy to retrieve the crashed planes from training sessions of Air Force pilots. It was later abandoned and turned into a recreational area for locals and dive enthusiasts. Scout the pilings for seahorses, frogfish, octopi, and lionfish. At maximum depth of 30 feet, find a sunken base where bigger fish like to hide. Bring your flashlight to scope out the interior. Not a diver? No problem. Enjoy the sandy beaches, reggaeton music, and aromas of delicious Puerto Rican food all day long. One entire side of this recreational park is lined with street vendors selling food, handicrafts, and drinks. Want that true Puerto Rican vibe? Want to see how the locals relax on a weekend? Crashboat is your place. But if you’re not interested in the crowds, come here in the morning on a weekday. I dive here regularly, and I avoid crowds by diving early. Enjoy!
I think the most appealing aspect of Old San Juan is the architecture and design of the city. Residential apartment buildings have been converted to designer boutiques or little B&Bs, and interior courtyards invite hungry guests to relax and unwind in the shade.... I’ve been to this area multiple times and still I manage to find a street I’ve never wandered down. Some are more popular than others, in particular Calle San Sebastian, which hosts eateries, bars, and shops, and Calle San Francisco. At the corner of this street is my particular favorite, Franky’s antiques. It’s in a four-story building, loaded with vintage goodies. There’s so much to see, one trip is not enough. If you want to shop, consider wandering all morning and into the early afternoon. You’ll be delighted by all the unique shops. Then, take a break at my favorite restaurant, Triana, for Spanish-style tapas and their famous sangria. It’s a must-stop place any time I’m in the old city. You don’t need a car to get around. Just park at one of the garages and explore by foot. There’s lots to see and do in Old San Juan.
One of my favorite places in the whole world—Vieques! I’m actually a little apprehensive to share, because I’d love to keep it the semi-secret it is. If you time it well, you can have this beach all to yourself.
In the heart of El Viejo San Juan, the Plaza Colón (Columbus Plaza) is so much more than a place honoring an important piece of San Juan’s history. Sure, snapping an Instagram photo in front of the bronze statue of Christopher Columbus, credited for the first discovery of the island, is definitely a “must-do.” Find a local and in your best Spanish accent say “Perdón, podría tomar una foto por favor?” Or play it safe and ask another tourist in English (they’re not hard to find!). Either way, stay and hang out. Explore the local artists’ tents (like this one, with rings and bracelets made from brightly colored ceramic beads and recycled aluminum, customized to fit). Pick out unique, inexpensive gifts for loved ones and, of course, something to remember the trip! And don’t ignore the ringing bell of the sorbet vendors selling “coco frio” for $1. Try a scoop of papaya y piña to help cool off in the heat of the Puerto Rican sun.
Old San Juan offers historically and culturally significant experiences including a walk through 500-year-old forts, visits to UNESCO sites, historic churches, museums, the second oldest cathedral in the Americas and Ponce de Leon’s mansion. Cobblestone streets and pastel buildings are perfect for exploration during the day and variety of restaurants and shops make for a complementary evening.
Cuevas del Indios (Indian Caves) of Arecibo offers a tidbit of ancient history of a lost people. An easy-to-find natural wonder, with a simple $2 fee for parking, this you won’t want to miss. Bring some sunscreen and your camera. Begin your hike up sharp and spiky cliff sides (no worries, I was able to do it all in sandals). Work your way up to the top of the cliff and enjoy the fantastic view below. Ocean spray from the massive waves breaking against the side of the rocks will cool you off with a little salty mist. Dare to look over the edge to see a landscape of arches and tunnels, burrowed below your feet. Climb down into the rocks to find a wonderful—and surprisingly well-preserved—variety of Taino Indian petroglyphs. A small climb down a somewhat sturdy, handmade ladder lands you at the base of the cave with stone carved images surrounding you. Now is your chance to experience some history. Wander through the smaller tunnels, and listen to the ocean making its way inside the cave with every massive wave crashing outside.
There’s a reason vibrant, sun-soaked Puerto Rico is known as the island of enchantment, and it has everything to do with its glistening shoreline. Here are standout, lesser-known stretches of sand for those looking to relax and refresh.