Lisbon has a charming culture and friendly people. The best way to get to know the picturesque City of Seven Hills is to stroll up and down its winding streets, following your feet and slipping through the narrow alleys of such historic neighborhoods as Alfama. Follow the sounds of Fado instead, and you may find an old tavern full of locals drinking the sweet, traditional Ginginha liqueur. When it's time to eat, look for a tasca, a cheap restaurant that serves homemade food. Prepare to be surprised by Lisbon; you never know what wonders you'll find around the next corner.
Lisbon's Mediterranean climate draws many tourists in August, though the days are hot and most locals are away on their own vacations. The early summer months (June, July) are milder and very festive: popular feasts draw crowds, streets filled with the smell of sardines, bars and restaurants remain open late into the night, and you'll find live music in gardens and neighborhood squares. Take advantage of the long days to spend an afternoon enjoying the view from one of the city's many terraces. September is quieter, and you'll also find wonderful natural light, changing colors, and plenty of events.
Back in the day, Cais das Colunas—where the Tagus River meets the Praça do Comércio plaza—was the official entrance to Lisbon, used by heads of state and other prominent figures. Here, looking out on the water, you can see the April 25th Bridge and the monument to Christ the King. To your right is Ribeira das Naus, the waterfront promenade. Now, turn your back to the river and take in one of the most palatial squares in Europe, in which you'll find Lisbon's oldest café, Martinho da Arcada. In front of you, the Triumphal Arch of Rua Augusta leads to a beautiful pedestrian street.
Portuguese cuisine is diverse and delicious. Try a hearty winter dish like cozido à Portuguesa (meat, potatoes, white beans, and often soup). In summer, nothing beats the grilled fish and seafood. Ask for amêijoas à bulhão pato (clams with garlic, white wine and cilantro), and don’t forget the toasted bread with butter. If you are in a hurry, head to a snack bar and ask for a bifana (pork) or prego (beef) sandwich. When it comes to drinking, Portugal is known for its wine, and Lisbon is no exception. If you want a local liqueur, try Ginginha, Favaios, or Moscatel de Setúbal.
After a night out, hungry revelers go to Fábrica de Pastelaria Azevedo e Vidal at Avenida Almirante Reis, 149, or to Panificadora São Roque on Rua da Rosa, near Bairro Alto. If you get lost, just follow the smell of warm cakes and merendas (ham-and-cheese-filled pastries). For sweeter cakes, make the trek to Rua Belém and look for the line outside Pastéis de Belém. Find a table and ask for at least two custard tarts (pastel de nata) per person. (Hardly a secret, but so good!)
