Poland

Polish people have never lost hold of their national identity, not even when their country officially ceased to exist for the 123 years leading up to World War I (it was partitioned by Austria, Russia, and the Kingdom of Prussia). Though Poland suffered greatly during the world wars, and through the privations of a half century of real socialism that followed, the country has spent the last three decades rebuilding itself as a modern democracy. In 2004, it joined the European Union and started focusing even more intensely on the future.

Poland is arranged in latitudinal strips, with the Vistula River running the length of the country all the way to the Baltic Sea, passing by the rugged peaks of the Tatras, as well as rolling plains, vast forests, and thousands of lakes. In addition to this natural beauty, the country boasts a great wealth of historic monuments and cultural traditions, both in its big cities and smaller villages. Places like the ancient city of Kraków, vibrant metropolitan Warsaw, and Gdańsk, the cradle of the Solidarity movement, are not to be missed. With more time on your hands, however, Poland invites venturing off the beaten path.

Torun, Poland - February 19, 2019: Townhouses around main square of historic part of Torun city

Photo by Fotokon/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Poland?

In Poland, you can experience the pleasures of four distinct seasons, all in a mostly temperate climate. Spring brings ancient folk celebrations and classic music festivals, while summer is the time to relax on a café terrace or take to the beach. In the fall, the mountains beckon with their changing colors, and in winter, locals busy themselves with skiing, Christmas markets, and mulled wine. While May and September are considered the most desirable months weather-wise, Poland has something to offer year-round.

How to get around Poland

Poland has two major international airports, in Kraków and Warsaw, but European budget airlines also fly to Gdańsk, Katowice, and other smaller ports. For traveling domestically, the country has a well-developed train network, especially between the major towns—recently, the Pendolino high-speed train has made travel between Kraków and Gdańsk even easier. Roads have improved drastically over the last few decades, with thousands of new miles of highways and expressways as well as many smaller, picturesque country roads for slow, scenic drives. Additionally, Poland has a well-functioning public transportation system, particularly in the big cities, and fairly well-developed intercity bus connections.

Food and drink to try in Poland

In the melting pot of Central and Eastern Europe, various cultures and traditions have left their mark on what is considered “typically Polish” cuisine. For a true taste, try one of the country’s many signature soups, from rosół (beef or chicken broth), krupnik (barley), kapuśniak (sour cabbage), and grzybowa (mushroom) to barszcz (beetroot) and żurek (a sour soup of fermented rye). Pierogi (dumplings), which come with a variety of fillings both savory and sweet, are another simple yet indisputable pleasure of Polish food.

Cured meats and sausages are popular, but vegetarian cuisine is also on the rise. Over the last few decades, several young, talented local chefs have worked to give traditionally heavy Polish cuisine a lighter, more modern makeover, creating a sort of “cuisine d’auteur.”

Culture in Poland

With its more than 1,000 years of history, Poland has no shortage of cultural offerings, from excellent museums (including the Wawel Royal Castle in Kraków, the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews in Warsaw, and the European Solidarity Center in Gdańsk) and fascinating attractions (encompassing 15 UNESCO World Heritage sites) to world-class festivals, theater, film, and, especially, music. Some of the country’s more famous musical events include the International Chopin Piano Competition (held every five years in Warsaw), the Actus Humanus classical music celebration in Gdańsk, and the ultramodern Unsound and Sacrum Profanum festivals in Kraków.

Can’t miss things to do in Poland

The essential Poland itinerary should include Kraków, the country’s ancient capital, with side trips to the medieval salt mines of Wieliczka and the memorial and museum at Auschwitz. Also not to be missed are Warsaw, where you can learn about Polish history and sample some big-city pleasures, as well as Gdańsk, the birthplace of the Solidarity movement. If you have more time, consider adding destinations like the Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork, the historic cities of Toruń and Kazimierz Dolny, the Tatra Mountains in the south, the wilderness of Podlasie near Poland’s eastern border, and historically industrial towns like Łódź and Nikiszowiec.

Practical Information

Citizens of the U.S., E.U., Canada, Australia, and New Zealand (among many other countries) do not need a visa to visit Poland, but will require a valid passport or, in the case of E.U. citizens, either a passport or national ID. The local language is Polish, but English is widely spoken, especially within the hospitality industry. The local currency is the Polish zloty (PLN) and the voltage is 230 V; an adapter is needed for American and British plugs.

Local Resources

Guide Editor

Dorota Wąsik is a writer, journalist, and translator, keen to travel the world but always return to her home in Kraków. She loves exploring her native Poland, discovering less-famous-but-no-less-fascinating destinations, browsing flea markets, and searching for forgotten mid-century ceramic decorations. She likes to time her trips to include maximum exposure to art and (preferably early classical) music.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
The charming Róże i Zen (Roses and Zen) is a café-restaurant, located between two neighboring buildings on a somewhat-secret garden patio that can only be described as magical. In this enchanted setting, guests sit comfortably and take their time, whether in the company of friends, chatting with colleagues, or enjoying a romantic date. Beyond its atmosphere, Róże i Zen is known for its short but delicious menu, filled with freshly made dishes and desserts like homemade pastries and cakes. Whatever you choose, pair it with something from the extensive coffee and tea selection.
A short walk away from the center of the Old Town is the four-star Hotel Kossak; its rooftop Cafe Oranżeria has a fabulous panoramic view over the Wawel royal complex, the Vistula river, and the Old Town. It’s easy to spend an evening in the Oranżeria and barely notice the food, so spectacular is the view. Fortunately the quality of the cuisine is also first-class and it is rightly considered one of Krakow’s best restaurants.
In the last two decades the shops along the narrow alleys and cobbled streets of Kazimierz have attracted a variety of artists who have set up their businesses here as the neighbouhood has become Krakow’s bohemian quarter. Visitors can now spend several hours happily browsing the shops along Ulica Jozefa. Cheder Café offers Middle Eastern snacks and is decorated in a contemporary style that is unmistakably Jewish in character and feels like a relaxed library.
During the communist era, milk bars could be found in every Polish city. These were canteen-style restaurants where workers could come and eat decent, inexpensive portions of simple food in a no-nonsense setting. Despite their popularity in the 1970s and 1980s, most of the milk bars died away as the Polish restaurant scene was rapidly modernized; however, the few that survived are now increasingly treasured as an important part of Poland’s cultural heritage. U Stasi is well-known for its friendly service (something that milk bars traditionally lacked) while Bar Mleczny Górnik (Miners’ Bar) is basic to the core in all ways except the food, which is consistently good and outrageously cheap.
The Summer Restaurant in the Hotel Stary offers top quality food with a bird’s eye view over the market square (just be sure to ask for a table with an OId Town view).
After a night of barhopping, it’s only natural to develop an appetite. Visit Plac Nowy in Kazimierz for zapiekanki, a Polish pizza-style snack of baked bread with a topping of tomato sauce, cheese, ham, and garlic sauce. There are a few stalls in Plac Nowy serving zapiekanki late into the night, but only Endzior has a constant line of loyal customers. Another Krakow institution is the sausage stand outside Plac Targowy where men in white coats serve an eager line of customers with delicious sausages smoked over their wood-burning stove and delivered in a bread roll with mustard. This makeshift stall has been on this spot every day between 10:00 p.m. and 3:00 a.m. for longer than most of their customers care to remember.
A five-minute walk from the main market square and you’re at Kogel Mogel, a cozy, velvet-curtained spot for traditional Polish cuisine. On the cheeky menu, printed to look like a Communist newspaper, watch out for the pierogies and the house specialty: goose marinated in red wine and served with plums.
The walls of Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (“Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz”) are lined with accordions, mannequins, and miscellany in a nod to Kazimierz, the historic Jewish quarter where it stands. Absolutely everyone, the elderly women included, will be taking shots of Zubrówka, a dry vodka that gets its herbaceous flavor from bison grass.
As the number of bars in Krakow has gradually increased, the spots from which to enjoy a sunset drink have also expanded. One of the most glamorous spots is the Sky Bar on the roof of the Hotel Stary, overlooking the main square. Order a cocktail or a decadent homemade dessert and watch as the bustle of the city plays out below to the occasional tune of the unfinished bugler.
The Church of the Nativity, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located south of Jerusalem in Bethlehem in the West Bank. It was originally commissioned by the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great in 327 and built over the cave where Jesus is said to have been born—the precise site is today marked by a silver star. Rebuilt by Justinian as a typical five-aisle basilica in 565, the Church of the Nativity has subsequently expanded into the sprawling complex it is today.