Poland

Polish people have never lost hold of their national identity, not even when their country officially ceased to exist for the 123 years leading up to World War I (it was partitioned by Austria, Russia, and the Kingdom of Prussia). Though Poland suffered greatly during the world wars, and through the privations of a half century of real socialism that followed, the country has spent the last three decades rebuilding itself as a modern democracy. In 2004, it joined the European Union and started focusing even more intensely on the future.

Poland is arranged in latitudinal strips, with the Vistula River running the length of the country all the way to the Baltic Sea, passing by the rugged peaks of the Tatras, as well as rolling plains, vast forests, and thousands of lakes. In addition to this natural beauty, the country boasts a great wealth of historic monuments and cultural traditions, both in its big cities and smaller villages. Places like the ancient city of Kraków, vibrant metropolitan Warsaw, and Gdańsk, the cradle of the Solidarity movement, are not to be missed. With more time on your hands, however, Poland invites venturing off the beaten path.

Torun, Poland - February 19, 2019: Townhouses around main square of historic part of Torun city

Photo by Fotokon/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Poland?

In Poland, you can experience the pleasures of four distinct seasons, all in a mostly temperate climate. Spring brings ancient folk celebrations and classic music festivals, while summer is the time to relax on a café terrace or take to the beach. In the fall, the mountains beckon with their changing colors, and in winter, locals busy themselves with skiing, Christmas markets, and mulled wine. While May and September are considered the most desirable months weather-wise, Poland has something to offer year-round.

How to get around Poland

Poland has two major international airports, in Kraków and Warsaw, but European budget airlines also fly to Gdańsk, Katowice, and other smaller ports. For traveling domestically, the country has a well-developed train network, especially between the major towns—recently, the Pendolino high-speed train has made travel between Kraków and Gdańsk even easier. Roads have improved drastically over the last few decades, with thousands of new miles of highways and expressways as well as many smaller, picturesque country roads for slow, scenic drives. Additionally, Poland has a well-functioning public transportation system, particularly in the big cities, and fairly well-developed intercity bus connections.

Food and drink to try in Poland

In the melting pot of Central and Eastern Europe, various cultures and traditions have left their mark on what is considered “typically Polish” cuisine. For a true taste, try one of the country’s many signature soups, from rosół (beef or chicken broth), krupnik (barley), kapuśniak (sour cabbage), and grzybowa (mushroom) to barszcz (beetroot) and żurek (a sour soup of fermented rye). Pierogi (dumplings), which come with a variety of fillings both savory and sweet, are another simple yet indisputable pleasure of Polish food.

Cured meats and sausages are popular, but vegetarian cuisine is also on the rise. Over the last few decades, several young, talented local chefs have worked to give traditionally heavy Polish cuisine a lighter, more modern makeover, creating a sort of “cuisine d’auteur.”

Culture in Poland

With its more than 1,000 years of history, Poland has no shortage of cultural offerings, from excellent museums (including the Wawel Royal Castle in Kraków, the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews in Warsaw, and the European Solidarity Center in Gdańsk) and fascinating attractions (encompassing 15 UNESCO World Heritage sites) to world-class festivals, theater, film, and, especially, music. Some of the country’s more famous musical events include the International Chopin Piano Competition (held every five years in Warsaw), the Actus Humanus classical music celebration in Gdańsk, and the ultramodern Unsound and Sacrum Profanum festivals in Kraków.

Can’t miss things to do in Poland

The essential Poland itinerary should include Kraków, the country’s ancient capital, with side trips to the medieval salt mines of Wieliczka and the memorial and museum at Auschwitz. Also not to be missed are Warsaw, where you can learn about Polish history and sample some big-city pleasures, as well as Gdańsk, the birthplace of the Solidarity movement. If you have more time, consider adding destinations like the Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork, the historic cities of Toruń and Kazimierz Dolny, the Tatra Mountains in the south, the wilderness of Podlasie near Poland’s eastern border, and historically industrial towns like Łódź and Nikiszowiec.

Practical Information

Citizens of the U.S., E.U., Canada, Australia, and New Zealand (among many other countries) do not need a visa to visit Poland, but will require a valid passport or, in the case of E.U. citizens, either a passport or national ID. The local language is Polish, but English is widely spoken, especially within the hospitality industry. The local currency is the Polish zloty (PLN) and the voltage is 230 V; an adapter is needed for American and British plugs.

Local Resources

Guide Editor

Dorota Wąsik is a writer, journalist, and translator, keen to travel the world but always return to her home in Kraków. She loves exploring her native Poland, discovering less-famous-but-no-less-fascinating destinations, browsing flea markets, and searching for forgotten mid-century ceramic decorations. She likes to time her trips to include maximum exposure to art and (preferably early classical) music.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
After a night of barhopping, it’s only natural to develop an appetite. Visit Plac Nowy in Kazimierz for zapiekanki, a Polish pizza-style snack of baked bread with a topping of tomato sauce, cheese, ham, and garlic sauce. There are a few stalls in Plac Nowy serving zapiekanki late into the night, but only Endzior has a constant line of loyal customers. Another Krakow institution is the sausage stand outside Plac Targowy where men in white coats serve an eager line of customers with delicious sausages smoked over their wood-burning stove and delivered in a bread roll with mustard. This makeshift stall has been on this spot every day between 10:00 p.m. and 3:00 a.m. for longer than most of their customers care to remember.
A five-minute walk from the main market square and you’re at Kogel Mogel, a cozy, velvet-curtained spot for traditional Polish cuisine. On the cheeky menu, printed to look like a Communist newspaper, watch out for the pierogies and the house specialty: goose marinated in red wine and served with plums.
The walls of Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (“Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz”) are lined with accordions, mannequins, and miscellany in a nod to Kazimierz, the historic Jewish quarter where it stands. Absolutely everyone, the elderly women included, will be taking shots of Zubrówka, a dry vodka that gets its herbaceous flavor from bison grass.
As the number of bars in Krakow has gradually increased, the spots from which to enjoy a sunset drink have also expanded. One of the most glamorous spots is the Sky Bar on the roof of the Hotel Stary, overlooking the main square. Order a cocktail or a decadent homemade dessert and watch as the bustle of the city plays out below to the occasional tune of the unfinished bugler.
The Church of the Nativity, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located south of Jerusalem in Bethlehem in the West Bank. It was originally commissioned by the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great in 327 and built over the cave where Jesus is said to have been born—the precise site is today marked by a silver star. Rebuilt by Justinian as a typical five-aisle basilica in 565, the Church of the Nativity has subsequently expanded into the sprawling complex it is today.
The Sea of Galilee has had a variety of names since biblical times, but in modern Israel, it’s called Lake Kinneret. Regardless of its name, the Kinneret is the focal point of Galilee. This beautiful freshwater lake is lined with ideal places to relax: beaches, camping grounds, cycling trails, and walking tracks, as well as an assortment of historic, archaeological, and religious attractions. Many of the places around the lake, such as Tabgha and Capernaum, are holy sites for Christians, the locations where Jesus is believed to have performed miracles. The newest attraction at the Kinneret is Aqua Kef, an inflatable floating water park, with trampolines, slides, and climbing walls.
The multifaceted mountaintop town of Safed, located almost 3,000 feet above sea level in Upper Galilee, boasts magnificent views of the Golan Heights, Sea of Galilee, and Lebanon. The city first became prominent when the Crusaders built a fortress on the site. Jews first arrived in considerable numbers after expulsion from Spain in 1492, and Safed became a spiritual center when Kabbalah flourished under rabbis Yitzhak Luria and Joseph Caro. Safed has a thriving artists’ quarter, with studios and galleries filling the narrow alleys, and it hosts an annual klezmer festival. It also maintains a strong religious presence as one of Israel’s four holiest cities.
The Western Wall (also called the Kotel) is a remnant of the ancient wall that surrounded the Jewish Temple’s courtyard in the Old City of Jerusalem. It is one of the most sacred sites in Judaism, outside the Temple Mount itself. The plaza in front of the wall is divided into separate sections for women and men. Some worshipers wedge their prayers, written on small scraps of paper, into crevices between the stones in the wall, while others stand and pray, sometimes for hours. Archeologists have uncovered layers of the wall underground through years of excavation, and via a guided tour, visitors can walk through areas of this original, unrestored site that dates back to the 1st century C.E.
Located between Akko and the Sea of Galilee, this working kibbutz and spa hotel is the perfect recharge. I know that sounds cliché, but bear with me. First off, the backstory goes like this: a German-born homeopathic doctor stumbled upon the hillside site in 1923 and decided it was his dream parcel; forty years later, he managed to build a clinic there. The sloping refuge into which he poured his heart and soul is now a 97-room health resort, one that is an institution of sorts in Israel. Among Israelis, Mizpe Hiyamim is (understandably) seen as a splurge. That said, it is not all that fancy by today’s rapidly escalating high-end standards, and therein lies its charm. Where else can you go straight from feeding goats to getting a facial or hot-stone massage? The farm’s bounty enhances the experience. It puts out 50 types of cheese and pretty much all the produce that ends up on the menus for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It’s not necessarily a California-style approach to holistic living—the restaurant caters to meat-eaters, and I found myself deliberating between goat neck, lamb shoulder, and veal tongue for the main course. The spa makes use of olive oil from trees that are grown on-site. This, then, is not just another modern temple to individual well-being, but one that combines land and history—human and natural—in a way that truly makes you truly appreciate your surroundings. That, to me, is the ultimate traveler’s recharge.
The smallest holding in the mini-empire of Uri Jeremias, who also owns Akko’s Uri Buri restaurant and Efendi Hotel, this bright and no-frills ice cream shop sits along the old city’s western seafront. These are natural treats, made using local dairy products and no powders or stabilizers. The result is smooth and creamy, and the flavors (up to 16 available at a given time) are ones you won’t find too many other parts of the world, such as date, halva, cardamom, and rose.