Peru

Peru, once epicenter of the Inca Empire, is the third-largest country in South America, offering access to such natural highlights as the Amazon, the Andes, and the Pacific coast. This is a country that inspires wonder and mystery, from the majestic ruins of Machu Picchu and the mysterious Nazca Lines to the Manú National Park in the Amazon. Modern life in the cities takes place against a backdrop of colonial architecture, while daily life in Andean villages unfolds much as it has for centuries. Food is a key part of Peruvian culture, and a great source of pride. Peru is the country of ceviche, aji de gallina pisco sour, and all sorts of fusion cuisines—the perfect way to fuel your cultural and natural exploration.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Peru?

Peru’s distinct geographic regions have their own climates, so the best time to go depends very much on where you want to go and what you want to do. The coast is subtropical, with very little rainfall; the relatively mild winter lasts from June to September. The eastern rain forest region has an equatorial climate with hot temperatures and rain all year long. The Andean region has a very rainy summer season (December to April) and a dry winter that is often sunny during the day but really cold at night. In general, this May to October period tends to be the main tourist season in Peru, with those bookend months a particularly good time to visit.

How to get around Peru

Lima’s Jorge Chávez International Airport is the international entrance to Peru and the main hub for local flights. It’s served by direct flights from several North American cities, including New York, Washington D.C., Miami, Chicago, and Toronto. It also receives direct flights from the most important cities in Latin America, including Buenos Aires, Santiago, Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, Bogotá, La Paz, Quito, Mexico DF, Panama City, and more. If coming from Europe, there are direct flights to Lima from Madrid, Amsterdam, and Paris. If coming from Asia, Africa, or Oceania, you’ll probably need to transfer in a regional hub such as those mentioned above.

Peru is a large country in which the main tourist attractions are not only spread out, but often separated by challenging geography. It’s often better to take an internal flight than, say, to brave the 22-hour drive from Lima to Cusco—especially if you are short on time. Local flight operators like Star Peru, LATAM, Peruvian Airlines, Avianca, and LCP fly to most regions and you may be able to get a good price. However, if you prefer to take your time, buses are the most popular way of inter-region travel, offering cheap and reliable service. Oltursa, CIVA, Cruz del Sur, and Ormeño are known as comfortable and safe.

Food and drink to try in Peru

Peruvian gastronomy is one of the most remarkable in the world. The traditional cuisines of its three geographic regions contain a vast array of distinctive dishes and their variations. These have, at the same time, been subjected to countless reinterpretations by chefs around the country. Ceviche is considered the national dish, consisting of raw fish and/or other seafood cooked in lemon with chopped onions, parsley, corn, and sweet potato. Other traditional dishes include lomo saltado (a kind of beef stir-fry) and aji de gallina (creamy and spicy chicken). These are complemented by hearty soups and sides based on potato or quinoa. Regional cuisines play to the strengths of their local ingredients.

Culture in Peru

Peru was a Spanish colony for some 300 years from the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries. From religion to language to cuisine to art, the Spanish cultural legacy is prominent but has not entirely superseded Peru’s indigenous heritage. While Spanish is the official state language, indigenous languages like Quechua and Aymara are widely spoken, especially in rural areas, and many pre-Columbian traditions survive and are respected. In addition to Machu Picchu, there are numerous ancient archaeological sites remaining around the country.

Peru’s calendar is packed with festivals, mostly related either to Catholic observances or indigenous traditions—or a syncretic mix of both. The festivals celebrated vary region by region. But some of the more popular include Carnival (which is especially interesting in highland cities like Puno, Cuzco, and Cajamarcaand) and Holy Week (check out the celebration in Ayacucho). Another famous festival is Inti Raymi, or the Festival of the Sun, held in Cusco on June 24. It dates back to the Incas and honors the winter solstice, with celebrations throughout the streets culminating in a re-enactment of the original Inca festival at the Saksaywamán ruins.

Local travel tips for Peru

Peru is one of South America’s most hospitable nations, with friendly people who love to answer questions and chat for a while. However, English is by no means ubiquitous, especially outside the big cities. Learning a few basic phrases in Spanish is recommended. Of course, in businesses related to tourism there will always be someone who speaks English.

Guide Editor

Ana Paula Bedoya
Ana Paula was born and raised in Lima, Peru, and has been traveling since she was a kid. She has a major in economics and works in international development. Combining social innovation and travel, two of her biggest passions, she has worked, studied, and volunteered in Cusco, New Zealand, the United States, Cambodia, and Spain.

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Set amid lush, expansive grounds on the banks of the churning Urubambo River, this spa hotel is a luxurious base for exploring the Sacred Valley—or just relaxing in nature. For those heading to Machu Picchu, Tambo del Inka offers something that no other hotel can: a private train station on the Cuzco-to-Machu Picchu line. If you’re not sightseeing, there’s still plenty to do on the property, including watching hundreds of white butterflies dance against the backdrop of the Andes from the indoor-outdoor pool, or enjoying a farm-to-table meal next to the river. The highly regarded Hawa restaurant is a must for dinner and also serves a comprehensive breakfast spread with “detox” options, while the Kiri bar offers signature pisco cocktails and a full gin-and-tonic menu.

The resort captures the drama of the surrounding mountains with soaring ceilings and Incan-style stonework through the public spaces. In the large, airy rooms, guests also enjoy balconies or terraces with river or mountain views, as well as elegant marble bathrooms with both tubs and standing showers. For even more space, spring for one of the suites, which include separate living rooms and butler service.
Aranwa Scared Valley Hotel & Wellness lies about 30 minutes in either direction from crowded Cuzco and bustling little Ollantaytambo (where the trains depart for Machu Picchu). Part of Peru’s Aranwa chain of luxury hotels, it’s nestled near the banks of the Vicanota River, on what was once a 17th-century hacienda. The rooms and suites are much more spacious than what you’ll typically find in the area and feature either terraces, balconies, or views of the garden, river, and inland lake. Some are housed in the old hacienda building, but most are spread out over newer, two-story buildings dotting the property.

At the center of the resort is an infinity pool and whirlpool, both of which look out onto a restored chapel, roaming alpacas, and canals and ponds connected by footbridges. There are also several restaurants on-site, serving everything from gourmet Andean cuisine to sushi and wood-fired pizza. Additionally, guests can look forward to a museum, art gallery, library, movie theater, and several boutique shops as well as what the resort claims is the largest spa in Peru.
A Starwood Luxury Collection hotel in the heart of historic Cuzco, Palacio del Inka occupies a former palace, built by the Incans as part of the Coricancha (the centerpiece of their empire). Since ancient times, it’s had many lives—it was seized by the Spaniards in the 16th century, served as a museum in the 1800s, and finally became a hotel in the 1970s. Today, the property features artwork and artifacts from both the Incan and colonial eras, which guests can tour each day at 5 p.m.

Situated around a large central courtyard, the 203 rooms are decorated in a colonial motif, with carved-wood furnishings, jewel tones, and gold accents. Also on-site is a small but very nice spa with a hydrotherapy pool, dry sauna, Turkish bath, whirlpool tub, and showers with lighting effects, as well as a small gym with cardio machines and weights. While Palacio del Inka is just a few minutes to Plaza de Armas and its many eateries, guests would be remiss to not dine at least once at the hotel’s Inti Raymi Restaurant, which serves Andean and international dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. Before dinner, grab a drink at the Rumi Bar, which offers excellent cocktails and a free pisco tasting each night at 6 p.m.
The JW Marriott is internationally known for its luxury brand, and El Convento Cusco just might be one of the most impressive properties in its portfolio. Here, you don’t even have to travel to Machu Picchu for an archeology lesson, as the learning begins almost the minute you step through the hotel’s stunning brick arches—they were painstakingly rebuilt by hand from what remained of a 16th-century Augustinian convent, which was in turn built on Ican and pre-Incan ruins. Guests can wander downstairs through two exhibition rooms of excavated artifacts, or join free guided tours each evening at 6 p.m.

Rooms are individually decorated with sleek, dark-wood furnishings and Peruvian travertine tabletops. A handful have small balconies with views, while some on the lower floor look out onto one of the many remaining Incan walls that thread through the city. You can request to have oxygenated air piped into your room to help combat the discomfort many feel at 11,000-plus feet of elevation and there’s even an EMT on staff just in case. When hunger strikes, head to the on-site Qespi Restaurant, considered one of the best in the city for its exquisite interpretations of Andean cuisine.
The multicolored mountain of Vinicunca is not terribly far from the mobbed pathways of Machu Picchu, but until a few years ago, it was virtually unknown to U.S. travelers. But today, more visitors are braving the three-and-a-half-hour drive from Cuzco (and the three-hour hike) to feast their eyes on its crayon-box colors—burnt umber, periwinkle blue, mustard yellow. Instead of rushing through a long day’s outing, take in the mountain’s hues on a two-day trek with G Adventures.
One of the first stops outside of Cusco was on the Anta plain at 12,375 ft. The 16th century ruin of Chinchero is rumored to be the birthplace of the rainbow. I would be hard pressed to argue those refractions of light could have a more beautiful beginning. A wonderful outdoor market overlooks the ruins and there are many weaving cooperatives to explore in the village. Locals work hard to preserve cultural customs speaking Quechua and wearing colorful traditional dress. By supporting the talented women and buying local you assist in making their lives more self sufficient through their craft. If you’re looking for colorful blankets, I thought this market had one of the best selections.
For those of us used to seeing chicken cut into parts, wrapped in plastic, and cooling in supermarket refrigerators, a trip to a local Peruvian market is fascinating and a bit daunting. At the biggest market, San Pedro, just up the street from the Plaza de Armas, you’ll find fruits, vegetables, alpaca charqui (the Quechua source of our word jerky), pig’s heads, herbs, fruit juices, weavings, and much, much more. You’ll see a fair number of foreigners wandering here as well, so for an experience that feels more authentic, try San Blas Market or Rosaspata, both off the tourist track.
There’s plenty to do in Paracas, from sandboarding in Paracas National Reserve to boating around the Ballestas Islands to flying over the nearby Nazca Lines—that is, if you can tear yourself away from the pool at Hotel Paracas. The 120-room resort was all but leveled by the 2007 Peru earthquake, but reopened two years later with a fresh new look, including a blue-taupe-and-white color scheme to reflect the surrounding ocean, desert, and sky. A great choice for families, Hotel Paracas features a children’s club and kids’ pool as well as three restaurants, including a casual seafood spot, an Italian trattoria, and a fine-dining option. Also on-site are two bars serving drinks and light fare, plus a spa and 24-hour fitness center. Guests even have access to complimentary bikes and water-sport equipment.

Spread over six levels, rooms feature either terraces or balconies with garden or ocean views as well as spacious bathrooms with separate showers and tubs. Suites also include a dining area, and some even have private plunge pools.
A must-stop on the traditional handicraft circuit, this massive market—stretching four city blocks in Miraflores!—is home to stall after stall of kitschy bric-a-brac, pre-Columbian–style pottery, alpaca everything and an endless array of Andes-inspired arts and crafts. Come and shop around.

A contemporary arts and crafts shop with an attached café in a lovely restored casona in Barranco. Dédalo, the brainchild of an artistic couple that studied arts and literature in Florence, features unique, carefully curated ceramics, glassware, toys, frames, clothes, jewelry and decorative pieces for all tastes.