Peru

Peru, once epicenter of the Inca Empire, is the third-largest country in South America, offering access to such natural highlights as the Amazon, the Andes, and the Pacific coast. This is a country that inspires wonder and mystery, from the majestic ruins of Machu Picchu and the mysterious Nazca Lines to the Manú National Park in the Amazon. Modern life in the cities takes place against a backdrop of colonial architecture, while daily life in Andean villages unfolds much as it has for centuries. Food is a key part of Peruvian culture, and a great source of pride. Peru is the country of ceviche, aji de gallina pisco sour, and all sorts of fusion cuisines—the perfect way to fuel your cultural and natural exploration.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Peru?

Peru’s distinct geographic regions have their own climates, so the best time to go depends very much on where you want to go and what you want to do. The coast is subtropical, with very little rainfall; the relatively mild winter lasts from June to September. The eastern rain forest region has an equatorial climate with hot temperatures and rain all year long. The Andean region has a very rainy summer season (December to April) and a dry winter that is often sunny during the day but really cold at night. In general, this May to October period tends to be the main tourist season in Peru, with those bookend months a particularly good time to visit.

How to get around Peru

Lima’s Jorge Chávez International Airport is the international entrance to Peru and the main hub for local flights. It’s served by direct flights from several North American cities, including New York, Washington D.C., Miami, Chicago, and Toronto. It also receives direct flights from the most important cities in Latin America, including Buenos Aires, Santiago, Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, Bogotá, La Paz, Quito, Mexico DF, Panama City, and more. If coming from Europe, there are direct flights to Lima from Madrid, Amsterdam, and Paris. If coming from Asia, Africa, or Oceania, you’ll probably need to transfer in a regional hub such as those mentioned above.

Peru is a large country in which the main tourist attractions are not only spread out, but often separated by challenging geography. It’s often better to take an internal flight than, say, to brave the 22-hour drive from Lima to Cusco—especially if you are short on time. Local flight operators like Star Peru, LATAM, Peruvian Airlines, Avianca, and LCP fly to most regions and you may be able to get a good price. However, if you prefer to take your time, buses are the most popular way of inter-region travel, offering cheap and reliable service. Oltursa, CIVA, Cruz del Sur, and Ormeño are known as comfortable and safe.

Food and drink to try in Peru

Peruvian gastronomy is one of the most remarkable in the world. The traditional cuisines of its three geographic regions contain a vast array of distinctive dishes and their variations. These have, at the same time, been subjected to countless reinterpretations by chefs around the country. Ceviche is considered the national dish, consisting of raw fish and/or other seafood cooked in lemon with chopped onions, parsley, corn, and sweet potato. Other traditional dishes include lomo saltado (a kind of beef stir-fry) and aji de gallina (creamy and spicy chicken). These are complemented by hearty soups and sides based on potato or quinoa. Regional cuisines play to the strengths of their local ingredients.

Culture in Peru

Peru was a Spanish colony for some 300 years from the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries. From religion to language to cuisine to art, the Spanish cultural legacy is prominent but has not entirely superseded Peru’s indigenous heritage. While Spanish is the official state language, indigenous languages like Quechua and Aymara are widely spoken, especially in rural areas, and many pre-Columbian traditions survive and are respected. In addition to Machu Picchu, there are numerous ancient archaeological sites remaining around the country.

Peru’s calendar is packed with festivals, mostly related either to Catholic observances or indigenous traditions—or a syncretic mix of both. The festivals celebrated vary region by region. But some of the more popular include Carnival (which is especially interesting in highland cities like Puno, Cuzco, and Cajamarcaand) and Holy Week (check out the celebration in Ayacucho). Another famous festival is Inti Raymi, or the Festival of the Sun, held in Cusco on June 24. It dates back to the Incas and honors the winter solstice, with celebrations throughout the streets culminating in a re-enactment of the original Inca festival at the Saksaywamán ruins.

Local travel tips for Peru

Peru is one of South America’s most hospitable nations, with friendly people who love to answer questions and chat for a while. However, English is by no means ubiquitous, especially outside the big cities. Learning a few basic phrases in Spanish is recommended. Of course, in businesses related to tourism there will always be someone who speaks English.

Guide Editor

Ana Paula Bedoya
Ana Paula was born and raised in Lima, Peru, and has been traveling since she was a kid. She has a major in economics and works in international development. Combining social innovation and travel, two of her biggest passions, she has worked, studied, and volunteered in Cusco, New Zealand, the United States, Cambodia, and Spain.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Peruvian authorities recently unveiled an updated ticketing system for visitors to the UNESCO World Heritage site in an effort to address overcrowding.
For AFAR’s third annual Travelers’ Choice destinations awards, our readers cast more than 100,000 votes to recognize their top places to go. Get ready to hit the road—the world awaits.
Machu Picchu is located just fifty miles from Cusco. However, there is no direct road between the two cities. Unless you’re walking the Inca Trail, you’ll need to take a train from Cusco. The main operators are Peru Rail and Inka Rail, each of which offers a variety of budget and luxury options. Peru Rail runs a luxurious train, named after Hiram Bingham, that costs around $475 USD for a round-trip. Demand is high, so be sure to book the tickets in advance. You can also take any of the trains from Ollantaytambo to the small town of Aguas Calientes. From there, Machu Picchu is a 30-minute drive up the hill.
Offering traditional Peruvian dishes as well as others with more of a gourmet-fusion twist, this restaurant is an object lesson in using a country’s gastronomical variety to the very fullest. In particular, it’s one of the best places in Cuzco to try alpaca steak, which is grilled to perfection and served with a variety of sauces such as mango and ginger, mushrooms, or good old salt and pepper. A lovely rooftop terrace with fabulous city views is a great spot to try some mighty tasty pisco cocktails. The bar also features a plethora of infused piscos (think fruits, spices, and even chili peppers), which are great fun.
Limo offers Peruvian fusion par excellence that uses typical ingredients in daring new ways. It’s particularly known for fish, including many types of sushi, as well as a variety of entrées that feature tuna, shrimp, octopus, crab, salmon, or trout, some inspired by Andean recipes, others taken from the Japanese tradition. Not a seafood lover? No problem! Limo also has delicious options featuring chicken, pork, beef, and alpaca. This second-floor restaurant overlooking the Plaza de Armas is also a great place for sampling pisco cocktails. Reservations are a good idea, especially if you’d like to score a balcony table with a town-square view.
Forget alpaca! Those in the know go for vicuña instead, a much softer—and pricier—cousin of the alpaca. Alpaca 111 is widely regarded as Peru‘s most stylish and highest-quality purveyor of those coveted scarves, throws and blankets that are going to keep you warm during cold winters back home. No market haggling or being ripped off: This exquisitely designed stuff is the real deal and is priced accordingly.

The Huacahuasi lodge is one of Mountain Lodges of Peru’s stunning accommodations. The wall of windows in the lodge’s main room offers spectacular views of the clouds rolling through the valley in the evenings. The bright, colorful space was decorated with local design in mind. The lodge has an on-site masseur and each room has a private soaking tub with views of that impressive ridge line.
Few places can beat MAP Café for atmosphere. Located in the courtyard of Cuzco’s Pre-Columbian art museum (itself housed in a colonial mansion), the restaurant features all-glass walls for a privileged view. The fusion menu matches the ambience, including unique takes on local favorites such as adobo cusqueño—the tenderest of slow-cooked porks—as well as signature dishes like chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese and raisins. The desserts are such works of art you’re sure to want a photo before digging in. After six, the prix-fixe menu provides the perfect way to sample different flavors.
Chullpi is a top choice for haute cuisine Peruvian-style. Its chefs insist on Cuzco-adjacent ingredient sourcing that supports local economies, at the same time keeping traditional dishes like cuy (a regional guinea pig species) relevant through contemporary iterations. The flavors are fabulous and the presentation winningly incorporates local history, such as using a serving dish carved to look like the circular terraces at Moray or presenting a pressed guinea pig on skewers over a small fire made of palo santo, a local incense. Portion sizes can be small—the perfect excuse to order more.
One thing you’ll likely notice when walking the streets of Cuzco is how many places advertise pizza. If you’re dying for a slice, there’s no better spot than La Cantina. Primarily a wine bar—bottles of all-Italian vintages line the walls—this place also happens to serve the best pizza in town, with a delicately thin crust topped with ingredients like authentic salami, prosciutto, arugula, olives, a variety of cheeses, and more. You’ll also find imported meat and cheese plates, lasagna, bruschetta, and salads. If you’re lucky, there’s tiramisu at the meal’s end, plus artisanal limoncello. Go for the wine, but be sure to try the food while you’re there.