Kenya

In some ways, visiting Kenya is like coming home. Described as the “cradle of mankind,” it is here that some of the earliest humans were born. Our long-lost ancestors traipsed the arid, desert scrubland of northern Kenya doing what our species does best: adventuring far and wide. It’s that same adventurous spirit this vast and varied country inspires in its modern-day visitors. Wild and fiercely beautiful in places, vibrant and fast developing in others, Kenya is filled with experiences to delight every traveler: arguably the best safaris in Africa; terra-cotta sunsets astonishing enough to make you weep; white-water rafting and quad biking for adrenaline addicts; hot-air balloon riding and dhow boat sailing for more peaceful pioneers. Through the golden grasslands of the Masai Mara, past the towering peaks of Mount Kenya, to the soft, sugary sands of the Kenyan coast, this is a country that demands to be explored.

A hot air balloon above a savannah of buffalo in the Maasai Mara, Kenya, with five trees.

Courtesy of Alexander + Roberts

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Kenya?

There’s not really a bad time to come to Kenya, as even in the rainy seasons (April, May, and November) the days are still predominantly sunny, with rain showers only in the evenings or early mornings. The rains also encourage lots of wildlife to come out and munch on the luscious grasslands, so if safari is your main agenda then coming at a wetter time of year is not a bad idea. If the thought of rain sends shivers down your spine, aim for the dry season: July to October and January to February. Although temperatures vary significantly across the country—hot and humid at the coast, hot and windy in the north, cooler in Nairobi and the highlands, and drier and hotter as you head toward the Tanzanian border—these temperatures stay roughly the same all year.

How to get around Kenya

International flights arrive at Jomo Kenyatta Airport, about 20 minutes drive from central Nairobi. It’s now possible to purchase your visa in advance online for most nationalities, but you can also buy it on arrival if necessary. Check out the eVisa portal for more information. Do note, however, that getting the visa on arrival takes a whole page of your passport, whereas getting online in advance it’s just a small stamp at the border.

There’s a number of ways to get around Kenya. If you’d like to self-drive, you can organise a rental car from Jomo Kenyatta Airport with Europcar. For taxis in and around Nairobi, download the Uber app to your smartphone, or try the Little Cab app, a Kenyan-only Uber competitor. You can fly around the country using small charter flights with Safarilink and Air Kenya, which take off from Nairobi Wilson airport. If you’re booking a safari or tour your booking operator will often be able to arrange flights for you. Another great airline for getting around the country is Fly540, especially if you’re heading to the Kenyan coast.

Food and drink to try in Kenya

Kenya has a colorful and varied food scene, with influences from across the globe—including spicy dishes brought over by the Indian community, pineapples and chilis from Brazil brought by the Portuguese, and European vegetables and fruits. That’s without mentioning traditional Kenyan foods: staples such as ugali (like rice, but made from maize flour), sukuma wiki (a leafy green vegetable that’s a little tougher than spinach), and beans are the most commonly eaten foods in Kenya. Nairobi has a surprising array of excellent restaurants offering everything from Thai food, to gourmet burgers, to stone-baked pizzas.

Culture in Kenya

Kenya’s cultural heritage is particularly vibrant. There are a huge range of tribes here: from the colorful, beautifully adorned Maasai warriors in the south to the bejeweled Samburu tribesmen and women in the north, to name just two. Village visits can be arranged to meet the tribes and see traditional ways of life. In the Marsabit region, take a trip to the Singing Wells. Locals take their cattle there everyday and sing as they form a human chain to scoop water from the well to the trough. In Nairobi, visit the Nairobi National Museum to see the early human fossils, and check out the Maasai Market to pick up some local Kenyan handicrafts (although beware, some of the goods on sale are knock-offs made in China).

In Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, there’s always a huge range of festivals and events going on, from live music to thrift markets. For the most up-to-date information about what’s happening there, try Kenya Buzz (a local events website) or EatOut for the latest information on restaurants and bars. Further afield, Kenya has a number of annual events worth attending. The Lake Turkana Festival, held on the shores of the lake in Loiyangalani each year, is a colorful celebration that brings together local tribes, while the Lamu Yoga Festival is a chance to find your bliss on the beach. Athletes should check out the annual Lewa Marathon, with the chance to jog past zebra and antelope on a nature conservancy, while petrol heads should explore Rhino Charge, an off-road motorsport competition that raises money for conservation each year.

Local travel tips for Kenya

Kenyans are a friendly people with an excellent sense of humor. Tourism is a huge part of the country’s income—as such, tourists are made to feel very welcome here. Local languages spoken are English and Swahili. Phrases you’ll hear include jambo (hello), habari? (how are you?), asante sana (thank you very much), and karibu (welcome). Learning a few Swahili words is highly recommended—even though English is widely spoken, it always delights locals to hear visitors having a go. The local currency is the Kenyan shilling. It’s usually easiest to get cash on arrival in Kenya as there are plenty of cash machines in Nairobi and a couple at Jomo Kenyatta airport. Credit cards are widely accepted in Nairobi, but if you’re heading out of town, take some cash.

Guide Editor

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Lamu, one of the most magical destinations in Kenya, is famed for being the oldest and best-preserved example of a Swahili settlement in East Africa. The Old Town has been inhabited for over 700 years and is made particularly beautiful by the assortment of Swahili, Arabic, Persian, Indian, and European architecture. Since 1370, different cultures have been lured to Lamu, making it an important trading port along the East Africa coast. Nowadays it enchants visitors with its narrow cobbled alleyways, wandering donkeys, weather-beaten stone buildings, hidden courtyards, and the sight of rustic wooden dhows sailing in the distance. Visit the local mosques, wander the streets of quaint Shela village, sail over to the luxurious Majlis Resort for a swim and a cocktail, or while away the hours on an ornate roof terrace.
Modern and trendy Urban Eatery is a popular restaurant that only opened about a year ago in Nairobi. There’s always a good atmosphere here, as the kitchens open out onto the restaurant area filling the room with the sizzles and delicious smells of food to come.

The menu is quite literally overwhelming, with Thai, Mexican, Indian, Italian, Sushi and everything in between available, but it’s a fun evening picking and choosing from the different options.
Nestled in a stunning but lesser-visited part of Kenya known as the Chuylu Hills is Ol Dunyo, a luxurious lodge with a big focus on sustainable tourism. Here, eight of the ten private cottages have their own swimming pool, and all enjoy roof terraces where intimate and romantic Star Beds can be set up for a night spent sleeping in style under a canopy of endless stars.
Tsavo East National Park was created in 1948, making it one of the oldest National Parks in Kenya. Situated in the east of Kenya, halfway between Nairobi and the coast, this is a beautiful, wild and hot place (the heat rises as you lose altitude coming from Nairobi) that retains a lot of its original splendour. One of the most special reasons to visit Tsavo East is for sights of the soil-covered, rusty-red elephants playing in the shady Galana River waters. Some of these were once orphans at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and have now been released back into the wild.
Rooftop pizza restaurant Mambo Italia is a great place to go with friends or to listen to the live music regularly playing here. There’s a covered indoor area with colourful chairs and mismatched tables in case the weather turns, but on a sunny evening grab an al-fresco table and watch the traffic streaming by below. Best items on the menu are, of course, the pizzas. There’s a creative range of options the team here have dreamt up, or you can simply create your own.
Ocean Sole is an incredible Kenyan organisation which recycles flip-flops found on the beaches and in the waterways of Kenya and turns them into incredible works of art. Worth doing some shopping at when you’re next in town, each Ocean Sole product (everything from life-sized zebras to fridge-magnet turtles) is handcrafted to protect the oceans and teach the world about the threats of marine debris. It turns out that thousands and thousands of flip-flops are washed up onto the East African coast every year. Unused, they cause huge environmental damage, spoiling the natural beauty of the Kenyan beaches and also harming wildlife – the rubber soles are swallowed by fish and other animals, suffocating them.
No trip to Kenya is complete without picking up some of the beautiful handicrafts available here. Once of the best places to find these is at Langata Link – a house in the leafy suburb of Karen where every room has been turned into a different shop. They have everything here from bags made out of colourful Kenyan kanga material to delicate jewellery, rustic khaki luggage and pretty pottery. In the centre of the shop there’s also a lovely café, great for a pit stop after all that tiring spending you’ll be doing.