Shanghai

Once a tiny fishing village, Shanghai is a thriving metropolitan hub with an incredible history. Here, East meets West, old marries new, and the running joke is that the city is constantly under construction. With a population of nearly 24 million, the various quarters give this mega-city a surprisingly neighborhoodlike feel. The incredible diversity of people is reflected in the richness of the culture, cuisine, and architecture. Shanghai is a city on the go, so before you get swept away in the flow or jostled out of your place in line, be sure to find a spot to slow down, plant your feet, and take it all in.

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Photo Courtesy of Trujillo/Paumier

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Shanghai?

While every season has its charms and challenges, spring and fall are simply stunning. The weather just begs you to come out and stroll around the sun-dappled streets of the former French Concession or find a rooftop perch from which to take in the city. As the weather becomes more unpredictable, it’s wise to check the forecast, but don’t worry, if you get stuck in the middle of a downpour, umbrella sellers have a knack of appearing out of nowhere to peddle rain gear.

How to get around Shanghai

Shanghai has two airports, Pudong and Hongqiao, both of which are now connected by metro (Line 2/Green). When flying into Pudong, you can chop considerable time off your trip downtown by jumping on the maglev and either taking the metro into town from there or grabbing a taxi to your final destination. Buses also run from both airports to various points in the city center at frequent intervals (cost is 12-30 RMB, or less than $5), just check the signs at the airport. Taxis are an easy option, but it helps to have your destination printed in Chinese if you don’t speak any Mandarin.

Shanghai has a fabulous public transportation system, making it quite easy and affordable to traverse the city. Explore Shanghai is a handy way to find stations as well as calculate time and cost. You can pick up a Shanghai Public Transportation Card at the service counter in any metro station for a refundable deposit of 20 RMB. These cards, once topped up, can be used to pay for buses, metro rides, ferries, the maglev, and even taxis, saving you from digging for loose change as you travel. Taxis are also easy to catch and relatively affordable.

Can’t miss things to do in Shanghai

Start the morning off at the Bund. Get there in time to catch the sunrise and stroll along the promenade to see the fan dancers, the backwards walkers, and the groups practicing tai chi. There’s something magical about this waterfront stretch in the mornings. Take in the beauty, the culture, and the history of the city, all while gazing at the growing skyline across the river.

Food and drink to try in Shanghai

A veritable melting pot of cultural influences, the restaurant selection is as diverse and vibrant as the city’s residents. From Michelin star–rated chefs to mom-and-pop, hole-in-the-wall eateries and food carts lining street corners after the sun sets, you can easily eat your way through the city several times over. And while you can dine on authentic Turkish, Russian, or Argentinean feasts, don’t leave the city without sampling China’s various regional cuisines. From sweet to spicy to salty to… well, bizarre, the diversity of the country is reflected in its food, and really, you haven’t experienced China until you’ve tried the stinky tofu. Take a crash course on the classic cuisine of Shanghai cuisine by signing up for a curated meal at at Xiao Baihua, shared with an expert on the topic and set up by AFAR’s partner, Context Tours.

Culture in Shanghai

Check the listings in Smart Shanghai because hardly a day goes by without a show—ballet, theater, art exhibitions, or music. And for a soulful evening as iconically Shanghai as it is global, consider attending one of the nightly Chinese Acrobatic Shows or catching live jazz at the Cotton Club or House of Blues and Jazz.

Along with fabulous music festivals in the spring and late summer (Midi, Strawberry, JZ), Shanghai also has numerous “international” cultural gatherings such as the Shanghai International Fashion Cultural Festival (March 2014), the International Film Festival (June 2014), and the International Fitness Festival (Nov 2104).

Local travel tips for Shanghai

- A few words of Chinese will get you far and are usually always appreciated.
- For your own sanity, avoid the metro at rush hour.
- When at any market, always bargain—always.
- You don’t need to tip in Shanghai.
- Dip your dumplings in vinegar, they’re better that way.

Guide Editor

Christy Campbell is a freelance travel writer and owner of a small branding and communications business, Black Bear Ink. When she’s not exploring new places or getting lost in her backyard, she’s practicing the art of storytelling on Lane Letters.
READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
For a respite from the city’s noise and smog, head out to She Shan. The 100m hill is a blissful retreat and an interesting cultural destination as well. European missionaries set up a small chapel here in the 1850s which was transformed into the She Shan Basilica in 1935. You’ll also find a Jesuit Observatory on the hill, which, among other things, features the Han Dynasty’s earthquake monitoring device, made up of two dragon heads and a pendulum. If you get swept up in the peace and quiet of the area, simply stay the night at the luxurious Le Meridien: http://ow.ly/t7nCY The hotel is an oasis in Shanghai‘s summer heat with a man-made beach, a golf course, and a fantastic weekend brunch. How to get here: take line 9 to Sheshan station and from there, you can either walk ~30 minutes to the mountain or take a 14RMB taxi ride.
Make the trek out to Shanghai Film Studio for two reasons: 1) to wander Shanghai’s Hollywood equivalent and stroll through the sets of some of China’s most famous films (such as “Lust, Caution”), and 2) to experience an older, preserved version of Shanghai, sans traffic and millions of pedestrians. Tip: Stop in for lunch at Talking Land Cafe for a chance at bumping into a famous film star. Ooh la la.
Qibao, in Chinese, means ‘seven treasures’. And a treasure it is. The closest water town to Shanghai, it holds both the charm of an ancient, canal-traversed village as well as one of the most famous food streets in Shanghai. Head to Qibao Old Street for a culinary tour de force. And while you shouldn’t leave without sampling the Hai Tang Gao (rice cakes with a red bean filling) or--if your nose can handle it--the stinky tofu, there’s more to this little water town than the snacks. Round out your cultural venture with a shadow play show, a trip to the Qibao Temple or even a cricket fight. How to get here: Jump on Line 9 to Qibao Station and take exit 2 to reach the old town.
If you’ve made the trip to Thames Town or the Shanghai Film Studios, then you’re already a bit familiar with the suburb of Songjiang. But beyond fabricated villages and recreated sets, Songjiang holds a fair amount of cultural charm as well.



For a historic tour, start your trip with a visit to the Songjiang Mosque, which dates back to the 14th century. You’ll also notice a cemetery here with headstones in Arabic and Chinese, a tribute to the number of Muslims residing in China.


From here, head over to the Fangta Pagoda (in the southeastern corner of town) or Xilin Pagoda and Buddhist Temple (in the western part of the city).


A trip to the Zhubai Pond (64 Songjiang Renmin Nan Lu) will round out your historical exploits and give you that last bit of peace and quiet.


Fuel up at the Red Bar on the 3rd floor of Kaiyuan Med shopping mall before heading back into the city.


How to get here: Take line 9 to Songjiang Xincheng Station and then hop on a taxi from there.
If you travel out to the end of Line 9, you’ll find yourself back in England. No kidding. Opened in 2006, this satellite city is part of the government’s “One City, Nine Towns” initiative. While they intended to house up to 10,000 residents here and filled the village with apartments, shops and restaurants, the concept flopped and it feels more like a TV set than a cultural hamlet. Nonetheless, it’s a fascinating place to take a stroll and stop for a spot of earl grey. How to get there: jump on line 9 and take it to Songjiang New Town station. From there, you’ll need to grab a taxi (<15RMB) to taiwushi xiaozhen).
A two-hour trek from downtown will bring you to China’s third-largest island, Chongming. Considered a “national geological park,” the island is a known nature escape for city residents. While you’re there, check out the Chongming Museum, stroll through Dongping National Forest Park (they have hammocks and BBQ pits if you want to camp out for a while here as well as bikes to cruise around on), hike up Jinao Mountain to the Shouan Temple, or go crabbing for some of China’s most famous hairy crabs at the at Dongtan National Nature Reserve. How to get there: Ferries depart daily from Baoyang Port or take bus Shen Chong (申崇一线) from Shanghai North Long Distance Bus Station. *Photo Source Bert van Dijk (Creative Commons)
Right around the corner from the Waterhouse Hotel and the Cool Docks, you’ll find Sunny Beach, a slice of sand bordering the river. With only a couple dozen chairs available, you might want to get here early to grab your space. While there isn’t much in the way of snack stalls and cocktail bars, they do have a pretty liberal policy on bringing your own food and drink, so pack up a bag with some of your favorites, grab your towel and badminton racquet and come out for a day in the sand. Open 10am-10pm Admission: 20 RMB *Picture from People’s Daily http://english.peopledaily.com.cn/90001/90783/91300/7337741.html
Covering 140 hectares (about one-half square mile), this is no small green space. Pack a picnic, grab a kite, and head over to Century Park for some space to run around, or simply to chill out and watch life go by. Open daily from 7am-6pm. 10 RMB entrance fee.
In a city packed with new construction, this Art Deco landmark remains a fixture of the Huangpu River—just as it has for more than eight decades. A favorite of visiting celebs and dignitaries, the Fairmont Peace Hotel is divided into North and South buildings. Complete with a copper-sheathed roof, Italian marble floors, and Lalique glass artwork, the 1920s North building—known as Sassoon House for its British businessman owner Sir Victor Sassoon—was once home to the Cathay Hotel; guests included Charlie Chaplin, George Bernard Shaw, and Noël Coward, who completed Private Lives here. The 1850s Renaissance South Building, formerly the Palace Hotel and once the tallest structure on Nanjing Road, was occupied by the Japanese during World War II. The two buildings combined to become the Peace Hotel in 1965, operating continuously until closing in 2007 for an overhaul of the exterior, interiors, lobby, and guest rooms by Hirsch Bedner Associates.

Today, Art Deco influences and romantic flourishes are evident throughout the 270 rooms and suites, many of which boast Bund views. Fairmont Gold rooms come with private check-in and lounge access, while the each of the opulent Nine Nations Suites is named for a different country and features corresponding décor. The Dragon Phoenix and Cathay Room serve Shanghainese–Cantonese and European cuisine, respectively, and the legendary Jazz Bar takes you back to a 1920s-era private club. After a day spent exploring the city or shopping along nearby Nanjing Road, take refuge in the Willow Stream Spa, which has 11 treatment rooms and a skylight-lit pool.
The original Jade Buddha Temple was built in the late-19th century to house two jade Buddha statues brought from Burma by a monk named Hui Gen. They remain the principal attractions of the temple, especially the larger of the two, a seated Buddha carved from a single piece of white jade and weighing 205 kilograms (452 pounds). This is an active Buddhist monastery, and you’ll see monks throughout the buildings and grounds, as well as locals who come here to worship. The complex has gone through cycles of destruction and repair, first during the uprising that led to the overthrow of the Qing dynasty, and later during the Cultural Revolution. There is also a popular vegetarian restaurant at the temple.