Vancouver

Vancouver is blessed. This modern city, with its glittering high-rise downtown, is ringed by some of the most beautiful water and mountain scenery on the planet. Visitors love the laid-back and outdoorsy lifestyle: You can ski in the morning, chill on the beach or paddleboard in the afternoon, and spend the night people-watching on a patio overlooking superlative mountain views. Vancouver also appeals to foodies, thanks to world-class restaurants, some of the best sushi outside of Japan, and a cutting-edge cocktail scene. Gateway to the Olympic-class mountains of Whistler, the Asian malls of Richmond, and Canada’s most English city, Victoria, there’s adventure all around this Pacific Northwest paradise.

Suspension bridge in a park in Vancouver Canada hovering over a lush, green forest.

Cayetano Gil / Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Vancouver?

Sure, Vancouver has a reputation for rain—it’s even nicknamed Rain City, or Raincouver, by the locals—but that’s how it gets such gorgeous blooms from spring to fall. No matter when you visit, make sure you bring an umbrella. Year-round the climate is pleasingly mild. During winter it rarely snows except on the local ski hills, and the temperatures hover around 40° to 50° Fahrenheit. Spring arrives early in February or March, and summer ramps up around June but lasts till late September, with temperatures just above 70° Fahrenheit and long, lingering sunsets. The city fills with cruise-going tourists throughout July and August, so canny travelers come in September to enjoy those balmy late-summer days without the crowds.

How to get around Vancouver

Vancouver’s nearest airport is Vancouver International Airport (YVR), which connects in 30 minutes to the city by the cheap and efficient Skytrain on the Canada Line. If you’re coming from Seattle or Portland, the Bolt Bus is a budget option, dropping off at the central Pacific Station; there’s also a Greyhound terminal there. Pricier but fantastically scenic is Amtrak’s Cascades route from Seattle, which hugs the coastline along the way.

Vancouver’s downtown core is easily explored by foot, bike, or public transit. The latter is plentiful and well-connected, with options including the sea bus to the North Shore, the Skytrain, and buses. Car share companies Car2Go, ZipCar, Moda, and Evo are all very popular with Vancouverites. There are also water taxis who ply their trade around False Creek to such attractions as Granville Island and Science world.

Can’t miss things to do in Vancouver

Nothing says “Vancouver” more than a cycle along the 22-kilometer Seawall. Wrapping around Downtown and including Coal Harbour, False Creek, and Stanley Park, you can snap selfies against a truly dazzling backdrop of mountains, sea, and glittering glass high-rises.

Food and drink to try in Vancouver

Vancouver is a cosmopolitan, multicultural city. After English and Chinese, the most common mother tongues are Punjabi, German, Italian, French, Tagalog, and Spanish. This translates into a thrillingly diverse dining scene that benefits from the first-class produce grown in the fertile lower mainland and Fraser Valley, as well as from the superb seafood harvested from the waters nearby. Vancouver’s Asian food scene is second to none, with excellent sushi bars, ramen joints, and izakayas in every neighborhood. You’ll also discover award-winning BC wines, a thriving craft brewing scene, and distilleries creating uniquely Canadian spirits with local ingredients.

Culture in Vancouver

The Museum of Anthropology at the UBC campus is home to one of the world’s best collections of First Nations peoples’ carvings, totem poles, and artifacts. Chinatown’s Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden is a must-see, as is the Bill Reid Gallery and the Vancouver Art Gallery. The Vancouver Symphony Orchestra have their home at the ornate Orpheum Theatre, and the city has a lively dance, opera, and theater scene.

Vancouver has more than its fair share of summer celebrations, from the cultural Bard on the Beach Shakespeare-fest, to the three-day Celebration of Light fireworks extravaganza, to the annual Seawheeze Half-Marathon, where 10,000 Lycra-clad yoga fans arrive for a weekend of running, partying in the park, and sunset yoga. But you’ll find something fun to take part in no matter what time of year it is, including winter’s Talking Stick Festival, which celebrates First Nations culture, and the spring Cherry Blossom Festival.

Local travel tips for Vancouver

Vancouver (or Lotus Land, as it’s sometimes called) really does deliver on the hype implied by its regular inclusion on those best places to live lists.
- The city’s inhabitants know there’s no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothes—so don’t let a spot of rain scare you away.
- Free shuttle buses run throughout the summer to Grouse Mountain and the Capilano Suspension Bridge, so get out into the mountains and enjoy the dense, incredibly green forests, no matter the weather.
- Also dive into BC’s incredibly diverse wines, brews, and spirits while you’re here—very little gets exported, so it’s a rare chance to soak up the local flavors.

Practical Information

- Vancouverites are an English-speaking bunch, with just a smattering of French and other languages tossed into the mix.
- On the appliance front, all of Canada runs on the same standard voltage of 110-120 v as the United States. Your hair dryer will work just fine, no adapter necessary.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
Find the perfect hotel for your visit to this dreamy British Columbia city.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Rent a bike and get pedaling—there are lots of small-batch breweries worth visiting in this drink-loving city.
There’s no better place than Vancouver to try a Vancouver cocktail, it’s the perfect pre-dinner sharpener, although it works rather well as an after-dinner treat too. It’s said to have been created at the Sylvia Hotel down on English Bay in the 1950s and its fans included Errol Flynn. It’s a riff on the Martinez, made of gin, Benedictine, sweet Vermouth and orange bitters. Although the Sylvia is, of course, the most authentic place to try it, I have to recommend you make for the all-weather patio at Cin Cin to sip bartender David Wolowidnyk’s version which is smooth, delicious, and really far too good to just have one...
Pidgin may be known for their deceptively simple East-meets-West Asian-inspired menu with a decidedly French edge, but their cocktails are all kinds of fantastic too, and in a casual but cool spot like this, it’s most fun to combine the two. Try their addictive chicken wings finished with a gochujang-based BBQ sauce with a bourbon-based Van Horne, and the plate-lickingly wonderful smoked taramasalata with an onsen egg with their much-loved carbonated sake and gin-based Mary Ellen Smith. For dessert? Try the beautiful watermelon-infused tequila One Eye Samurai as it comes served with a spoon of silky granita.
I adore this little boutique on Main Street that’s simply stuffed with gorgeously girly styles and flirty retro clothes. You can find plenty of Canadian designers here too, and there’s an especially good selection in the jewelry section. While you’re there, browse their organic toiletries, lust over their must-have shoes and start plotting how you need your bedroom to basically be an offshoot of this store...
There are plenty of things to love about Uva, but one of my favourite things is its daily happy hour which lasts from 2-6pm, offering buck a shuck oysters, delicious bruschetta (my favourites are the ricotta, and the devilled egg), and excellent prices on well-crafted cocktails, beer and wine. Must-trys on the regular cocktail menu include the herbaceous Chartreuse Milkshake, and the superby smoky spirit-forward Peater Rabbit. Live music at the weekends and a buzzing late night scene make this idea for fun in the evenings, but it’s a fantastic place to chill with a book or your laptop during the day when it’s quieter.
Possibly one of the finest cocktail bars in North America, everything about the Hawksworth Bar experience dazzles: from the Damien Hirst artwork on the walls to the soft cream leather couches, and the exceptional hospitality and wonderful quality of the drinks. No, it’s not an inexpensive experience, but it’s one worth having if you’re a fan of excellent cocktails created with love. I adore their Hotel Georgia, a beautifully frothy kiss of gin, orgeat and orange blossom water.
New to Yaletown, I adore this hidden speakeasy of a bar that has no sign and is tucked away down two flights of stairs on Hamilton Street in the corridor next to the barbers. Once you’ve managed to track it down, you’re in for a treat, there’s an open mic night on Tuesday, Rebel Bingo on Wednesday, and the London Calling cabaret perform twice a month on Thursdays. If you’re boozing on a budget there are daily drinks deals from Tuesday till Friday, but if money is no object, maybe try their bottle service or ‘Champagne Parade’. I recommend their Gincident, a herbaceous-citrus cocktail with gin, chartreuse and basil.
You’ll find people queuing outside the doors in Gastown throughout the week to take advantage of L’Abattoir’s excellent bar-only Happy Hour from 5.30-6.30pm which offers half-priced appetizers from their award-winning menu, daily red and white wines for $6, beer for $5, and cocktail specials for $7. Away from the Happy Hour the bar program at L’Abattoir is one of the best in the city with an exceptional bar team shaking (and stirring) up classics and their own creations. My tip? Start the night with a light, bright Gastown Swizzle and end it with a deliciously boozy Donald Draper.
Learn about and celebrate indigenous history.
Boutique-owner, Savannah Olsen, shares why the Vancouver neighborhood of Gastown is worth a visit.