Belize

Located on the East Coast of Central America, sharing a northern border with Mexico and otherwise surrounded by Guatemala, Belize is often called “Mother Nature’s Best-Kept Secret”—though it seems that the secret is definitely out. World-class diving, eco-adventures, boutique luxury resorts, and an evolving culinary scene are just a few of the reasons tourism is on the rise. Belize’s cultural heritage is rich, and the diverse influences are reflected in today’s food, music, dance, and folklore. Despite its seemingly small size, Belize offers ample adventure for adrenaline junkies, while miles of beaches and secluded rain forest retreats beckon travelers looking for a little R & R.

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Photo by Tom Prior

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Belize?

Belize is subject to the Atlantic hurricane season, so expect June through early November to be on the wetter side. Thankfully, Belize is spared from most major tropical storms. But if you are planning to tackle a lot of activities, low season is a gamble. When rains are heavy, roads and rivers on the mainland may be compromised. It’s not uncommon for Maya sites and caves to be closed due to flooding.

December through April is definitely the high season in Belize. The biggest influx of visitors is around the end of the year and Easter week. May is also a good time to visit, when things begin to mellow and businesses offer specials as they scale down for the impending slow season. Expect some restaurant closures and scaled-back staff at resorts during September and October, when many local businesses give their employees time off, take their own vacations, and gear up for the upcoming high season.

How to get around Belize

As of Dec. 14, 2020. Daily flights arrive into Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport (BZE) near Belize City. Large hubs like Atlanta, Houston, and Miami offer the most convenient routes on American, Delta, and United; while weekend flights go between Belize City and Newark, Chicago, and Denver. Many mainland resorts can arrange for airport shuttle service (for a fee) to pick up guests. Belize charges a departure tax, but flights booked through major U.S. carriers have the fees included. Currently, the fee for non-residents departing Belize is about US$35 per person. There are two airports in Belize City—International (BZE) and Municipal Belize City (TZA)—approximately a 20-minute drive apart. Tropic Air and Maya Island Air offer flights to the most-visited destinations, including the Cayes. There are rental car agencies at the airports, and scheduled bus service runs on the mainland between larger villages.

Food and drink to try in Belize

Food is not one of the main reasons travelers choose to visit Belize, but it should be! With so many cultural influences at play in the country’s cuisine, Belizean food is underrated. Look for Garifuna, Maya, Lebanese, Chinese, East Indian, and other international cuisines throughout Belize. Without a doubt, the most popular local dish is stewed chicken with rice and beans.

Fresh seafood is abundant throughout the country, especially in the Cayes, though lobster and conch fishing is tightly regulated, with fines for sale and consumption outside the allotted seasons. You’ll find Belizeans are passionate about their barbecue. It’s nearly impossible to walk down the beach on a Sunday without smelling a grill nearby. Snacks and street food in Belize are definitely worth seeking out. Not-to-miss breakfast specialties include fry jacks and johnnycakes. And no matter what you eat, a meal is not complete without locally produced Marie Sharp’s Hot Sauce on top!

When it comes to drinks, a cold Belikin always hits the spot, and for the occasional morning hangover—or goma, as most call it—try a Michelada. Tropical drinks are everywhere, with unique local spins on tried-and-true favorites. Belize produces several varieties of rum, liqueurs, and even wines made with cashews and blackberries.

Islands to visit in Belize

Belize’s top two tourism hot spots, Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, are its two most populous islands, some 21 miles off the coast of Belize City. In San Pedro, Ambergris Caye’s main town, tourists spend their days diving, snorkeling, and fishing: The coral reef’s white froth is visible less than a mile from shore. Nights are for partying and bar-hopping. The southern and northern ends of Ambergris are more suited to seclusion and romance. Sister island Caye Caulker is a smaller, laid-back Caribbean version of the two, with sand-only streets (no cars here), more local eats than fine dining, and a deeply rooted Creole culture. Caye Caulker’s offshore adventures and treasures include a marine reserve, mangroves for kayak exploration, and breathtaking sunsets. Hop on the ferry to experience both.

Culture in Belize

Belize’s tumultuous history is the basis for the numerous cultural influences that define the country today. Look for important cultural holidays and festivities throughout the year. Events like Carnaval, Costa Maya Festival, and Garifuna Settlement Day pay homage to key aspects of Belizean culture. Important cultural holidays of note include what most refer to as September Celebrations—the Battle of St. George’s Caye (or National Day) on September 10, and Independence Day on September 21.

The Cayes are hot spots for festivals and parties, including global holidays like New Year’s Eve, Easter, and Halloween. Many of Belize’s festivals are centered around important cultural holidays like Ambergris Caye’s Carnaval, akin to a Mardi Gras celebration. The September Celebrations recognize important historic battles and Belize’s independence. And Costa Maya Festival celebrates the region’s Maya roots. You won’t find big-name music artists holding concerts here, but that’s OK. Belize has a thriving local musical scene—musicians like Andy Palacio and the Garifuna Collective have played a historic role in Belizean culture. Culinary celebrations are also an important part of the scene, with everything from rum and chocolate events to countrywide lobster festivals.

Local travel tips for Belize

Belizeans are some of the friendliest and proudest people you will encounter—if someone is offering help or suggestions, they usually are doing so with the most genuine of intentions. In many cases, locals dine in the same restaurants tourists do. Absent is the stigma of “tourist traps” you find elsewhere in the world. Expect grocery prices to be higher on the Cayes than on the mainland, especially for Western products. Don’t look for McDonalds, Starbucks, or other chains—Belize doesn’t have them. Most businesses are family-owned, lacking a noticeable corporate influence.

Practical Information

The exchange rate is pretty much always 2 Belize dollars for 1 U.S. dollar. U.S. dollars are widely accepted, but be advised that some businesses will refuse them if they are torn, wrinkled, or contain any writing. The recent rule has been implemented because local banks won’t accept tender of torn and marked bills.

English is the official language, but expect to hear a variety of languages as you travel the country—Spanish, Mayan, Kriol, and Garifuna among them.

U.S. citizens traveling to Belize will need a passport that is valid beyond the length of their stay; tourist visas are only required for stays longer than 30 days.

Belize uses 110 voltage and the same electrical plugs as the U.S., so adapters and converters aren’t necessary.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Few things characterize autumn in North American more than apple picking, apple pies, and apple cider. If you feel like connecting with nature and experiencing a Canadian tradition, head to the western tip of the island and the Labonté Orchard for a wee session of apple picking. There is a small admission fee of $2, and you are free to stay on site for as long as you like. If you don’t go for the apple picking, go for the heaven-sent desserts at the on-site café. The apple crumble will make you a believer.
As the old truck lumbered down the highway we talked about the type of photography I normally like to do and he was able to narrow down some key stops for our morning where I’d be able to get some great shots that fit my style. It really is rare to get this kind of personalized treatment; this is where small town hospitality comes in. There’s no better way to photograph a region than going with a local who actually knows the region. Derek picked me up at the DesBarres Manor Inn after breakfast. He was not just a local who had grown up in the area, but he also was a photography enthusiast and was privy to some of the best views of the area. That morning he drove me all over the region – to the high points, the abandoned buildings and bridges, and some gorgeous wetlands that I never would have known existed. During the whole time he and I chatted about the progress of state of Guysborough, and the region in general. It was not only a great way to get photos that most visitors would never find, but it provided a super local insight into the region. More Information: Contact the DesBarres Manor Inn to scheduled a personal photography tour. http://www.desbarresmanor.com/
Each summer the Atlantic Film Festival brings Halifax the AlFresco FilmFesto on the waterfront boardwalk. The AlFresco FilmFesto takes place on Friday nights from July to August and features outdoor movies, often with a theme, like Billy Murray movies or Spielberg films. They are projected on a large screen on the boardwalk which runs along the harbor. It’s free (with a requested donation), so bring a blanket or chair to sit on and enjoy a movie under the stars.
Obladee is the only wine bar in downtown Halifax. The bar has a casual atmosphere with an ever changing wine menu and a few other select drinks like beer and cider if that is what you would prefer. They feature wine “flights” that pair three wines together for a reasonable price, as well as cheese and charcuterie that is locally sourced.
The Northern Jacana, the elusive Sungrebe and the Yellow-Headed Parrot are all easily found within the boundaries of the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary’s 16,400 acres. It is a birding destination, and considered to be a globally significant wetland. Belize has the largest nesting population for the Jabiru Stork and Crooked Tree is an excellent place to spy on the famous resident. The surrounding communities play host each year to celebrations that are part of World Wetlands Day. A bus can bring you to Crooked Tree from Belize City every day except Sunday and the sanctuary is located three miles off the Northern Highway, about 30 miles from Belize City or Orange Walk. The sanctuary is open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and offers horseback riding, boat tours and hiking for those not strictly interested in bird watching.
Hol Chan Marine Reserve, located just a few minutes’ boat ride from San Pedro, is the place to go for snorkeling in Northern Belize. This small, protected area (Hol Chan means “little channel” in Mayan) is home to part of Belize’s barrier reef, which is the second largest in the world (after Australia‘s reef), and the largest healthiest. There are many tour operators out of San Pedro that can take you out for a half-day of snorkeling the reef, and you’ll see colorful coral, rainbow fish, and manta rays, among other marine life. Make sure your guide brings you to Shark Alley, where nurse sharks come to feed on the fish scraps boats leave behind. There, you’ll be able to swim mere feet—or even inches, if you dare—from the creatures.
Jo and Chris Beaumont are expats from London who moved to Belize, to open a windsurfing and adventure sports business. They now own the Belize Chocolate Company, which produces the luxury chocolate line, Kakaw and numerous other cacao-based skincare, healthcare and cooking products. Their small shop on Barrier Reef Drive just steps from the beach in San Pedro seems like an expat’s dream. They certainly exhibit the kind of easy happiness that comes from providing a product everyone wants. The Belize Chocolate Company is a café and a store, so visitors can stop in and stay a while. When you do, make sure you seek out Jo or Chris. They are wonderful people, and their chocolate isn’t half bad either!
Before I went to Belize, anyone I spoke with who had already been told me that I had to have a meal at Elvi’s Kitchen. What started out as a take-out burger window in 1974 eventually became a sit-down restaurant serving lovingly prepared Caribbean dishes such as conch soup and fritters, mojo de ajo, fried green plantains, and street corn. During high season you might have to wait in line to eat dinner at the restaurant, but most of the time, there isn’t much delay. Save room for dessert. Elvi’s Kitchen is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Saturday.


Cave tubing is one of the most popular adventure activities in Belize. Like so many things in the country, it is another chance to learn more about Maya culture. In Maya mythology, caves were the entrances to the underworld, known as Xibalba. A rough translation might mean “place of fear,” but there’s no reason to worry these days. Cave tubing requires safety gear and is always done in groups with respected guides who are trained in safety and proper procedure. There are many options for cave tubing companies at Caves Branch and many have been leading tours since 1995. Pick one, go through the safety training, don a slick-looking helmet and life vest, grab an inner tube and you’ll be ready for your adventure down the river into a cave. Best conditions for the experience don’t involve heavy rainfall, so occasionally tours can be canceled, but your operator will judge whether it’s wise to still depart or not. As all companies have to adhere to safety requirements instituted by NICH, there’s no need to worry.
The Phoenix, a little slice of paradise on the edge of San Pedro, features more modern architecture than most buildings in town, as well as modern amenities. Rooms are one-bedroom, two-bedroom, and three-bedroom condominium suites that feature luxurious eat-in kitchens, bathrooms with walk-in showers and Jacuzzi tubs, large living rooms and laundry facilities. Each suite also has a balcony or patio, and almost all suites are just steps away from one of the pools which are the focal point of the resort. The larger main pool cascades into a shallower lower pool and is saline chlorinated, as is the 55-foot-long lap pool. A pool bar is open seven days a week from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Red Ginger restaurant is open daily for breakfast lunch and dinner as well as brunch on Sunday afternoons and serves a tapas menu on Sunday and Wednesday evenings. There are also business services, an on-site spa, and fitness and yoga centers. Rates begin at $325 per night during low season for a one-bedroom beach view suite.