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In Italy, these trails and parks provide breathing space for everyone.

After a lengthy coronavirus lockdown, the Italian government lifted quarantine restrictions and reopened its borders on June 3, but only to its European neighbors.

Getting to Portofino from Genoa is quite easy. Take the train from Genoa’s Brignole Station to Santa Margherita Ligure, and then catch the 82 bus to Portofino (a 12-minute trip around the bay). While I’m not a huge bus person, this is one of the most gorgeous bus rides I’ve ever experienced. A tiny fishing village with a very posh clientele, Portofino is a wonderful day trip—perfect for walking around, shopping at high-end boutiques, and enjoying an apertivo dockside before heading back to town. Yet Portofino is also covered with trekking trails, so another option is to wear walking gear and come for the breathtaking hikes!

Owner Cesare Maranza managed to bring a little bit of Italy to the middle of the Atlantic more than 35 years ago, when he opened Portofino, named after his hometown. Just a short walk from Front Street in Hamilton, you’ll feel like you’ve arrived in a northern Italian taverna. “It’s a lively and rustic restaurant,” Rebecca says, “and a great place for groups for a fun night out.” While they serve a number of hot and cold appetizers—calamari, prosciutto and melon, grilled vegetables—as well as soups and salads, Rebecca recommends that you order a pie instead. “To get better Neapolitan pizza, you’d have to keep traveling east to Naples!”

Overview

Take two days to explore this coastal town, then venture to other villages along the Italian shores. Be sure to hike from Santa Margherita to Camogli along the edge of the Portofino promontory.

In a pastel villa that presides over pine-covered slopes and the deep blue waters of the Ligurian Sea, Belmond Hotel Splendido was a 16th-century monastery before it became a cliff-side luxury hotel at the turn of the 20th century. Today, it is one of Portofino’s most iconic resorts, with 70 sunlit rooms (think herringbone hardwood floors, marble baths, and wrought iron terraces) that have hosted the Duke of Windsor, Ava Gardner, and Catherine Deneuve. You’ll get the VIP treatment while sipping champagne on a sunset cruise aboard the hotel’s Chris-Craft Corsair 36, dining on seabream ceviche at La Terrazza, or indulging in a chamomile footbath at the spa. A shuttle can run you down to intimate sister property Splendido Mare, which overlooks the central Piazzetta and is a dressed-up version of a fishing village pied-à-terre, with 16 whitewashed rooms and its own buzzy restaurant.

One-woman show, “JZ,” curates a luxury home furnishings store at the Village with pieces from all over the world, from Asian statement pieces to Italian Carrara marble. Highlights include custom-order furniture, Persian carpets, and stunning chandeliers. Portofino caters to all budgets—price points vary from $2 for little knickknacks, to $200,000 for one-of-a-kind pieces.

The tiny Abbey of San Fruttuoso is nestled in a cove between Camogli and Portofino, and accessible solely by foot or boat. If you want to hike it, find the trail at the far end of Camogli, and be ready for a steep, but gorgeous, two hour hike up and over the mountain. If you would prefer a quick 15 minute boat ride, catch the boat for a few euro in the harbor of Camogli and ride to San Fruttuoso in style. The abbey itself is beautiful, but it is also nice to simply sit and have a cocktail at the beachside restaurant (look closely - their kitchen is upstairs, so they send the food down in a small wicker basket when it’s ready!).

With amazingly clear emerald waters, the calm sea off of Santa Margherita and Portofino is perfect for snorkeling and scuba diving (May-September is the best season, although it has been known to stretch!). Il Grande Blu provides all you need to enjoy the waters - instructors, equipment, even towels! And if you prefer to stay on top of the water, they have kayaks for rent, as well as a beautiful full-service beach. (If you are up for even more of an adventure - head even further around the bay to San Fruttuoso to scuba dive - there is a sunken Christ figure just a few meters out into the bay that is really gorgeous to view up close!)

If you are coming to Genoa to find a luxurious seaside escape, get out of the urban city and make sure you stay at least one night at the Grand Hotel Miramare in Santa Margherita Ligure (roughly 45 minutes from Genoa by train). With a full service spa, massive saltwater pool, and breathtaking ocean views, this hotel makes a perfect base to explore the entirety of the Italian Riviera (including neighboring Portofino, the tiny villages of Cinque Terre, and the hidden beaches that dot the coastline). With these sea views, it is definitely worth splurging on an oceanfront room. (Unfortunately, this hotel is closed January through March, so you may need to plan accordingly.)

Catch the train from Genova Brignole station to Santa Margherita Ligure (about a 30-minute ride, leaving every ~30 minutes) and walk down to the large dockside pedestrian area. You will see the bike rental station just a few steps away from the bus ticket kiosk. For ~5 euros, you can have a bike for the whole day—a perfect option for exploring the fantastic surroundings! While the roads are all paved, they are incredibly narrow, and cars tend to drive quickly. Just be aware and stay very close to the edge for your own safety. Portofino (a 15-minute ride) is a gorgeous town frequented by international tourists and stunning yachts in the summer months. Originally named for the schools of dolphins (Port’Delfino) that often pass this cove, the landscape around the village is breathtaking. If you come in the spring, you can ditch your bike to spend the day hiking the paths up to the perched fort and church, or simply enjoy a gelato while gazing at the quaint fishing boats in the marina.

Grabbing the trail at the very end of the public parking lot on the east side of the little town of Camogli, begin the very steep 900-stair ascent up to the Church of San Rocco. After a break to enjoy the gorgeous view, head back down the other side of the mountain en route to San Fruttuoso. You have two trail choices at this point—the inland route is the easier option, but the coastal trail offers truly amazing views, plus the chance to explore the remains of WWII bunkers. Whatever you choose, the trails are very well marked, so you should have no problems getting there. Just remember to bring water, as sometimes it is quite far from one pump to the next. When you reach San Fruttuoso you have three options: hike back the way you came, catch the boat back to Camogli, or continue around the peninsula all the way to Portofino, and then bring the bus/train back into town from there.

Tucked away on the less-trafficked slopes of Mount Portofino, above the picturesque waterfront town of Camogli and scenic Riviera di Levante, Villa Rosmarino is that Italian friend’s vacation house you’ve been dreaming of. Owners Mario Pietraccetta and Fulvio Zendrini left Milanese corporate life to transform this dilapidated turn-of-the-century palazzo into a midcentury-style oasis with touches of Italian modernism, then moved in permanently, inviting others to experience their personal brand of la dolce vita. The library is outfitted with stylish armchairs, warm wood ceiling beams, and a collection of art and travel books that spans the walls, and the living room’s well-stocked honesty bar is the backdrop for friendly nightcaps. Rooms aren’t numbered, and the sprawling gardens are easy to get lost in. Mario and Fulvio are likely to chat guests up while lounging by the pool or sipping espresso on the balcony, offering their insider knowledge about the area and arranging one-of-a-kind excursions, from visits to secluded beach clubs to rides in their wooden motorboat.

Hiking the Cinque Terre is an extraordinary way to explore the Ligurian Coast. Five villages connected only by hiking trail and rail with breathtaking coastal views and colorfully quaint villages. The trails can be challenging at times and it is recommended to wear proper footwear (I felt terrible for those in flip flops). Also allow for 1.5 hours of trail time between the villages. You also will need to procure a hiking pass 5 euro for one day 8 euro for a two day pass. Passes are available at tiny huts at the entrance from each trail (outside of the respective villages).