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Hugging the golden crescent of Playa Conchal on Costa Rica’s northern Pacific Coast, the 2,400-acre Westin Playa Conchal is an all-inclusive (Westin’s only one) that has put great care into navigating the needs of both families and guests who prefer a more peaceful experience. A kid-friendly club features designated suites, all-day assistance of a “family concierge,” and exclusive activities, while the adults-only Royal Beach Club is almost a resort-within-a-resort, with its own lounge and private pool. Both have access to the greater resort, including the huge lagoon-style pool with swim-up bar, Jacuzzi, 10 restaurants and five bars, and the fitness club. All of the rooms and suites have balconies or terraces, and the Royal Beach Club suites also have a large outdoor tub. Guests also have access to the par-71 golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr.

In the city’s once-gritty fishermen’s quarter, a group of activist chefs is reviving—and reinventing—traditional cuisine.

An easy walk from the cathedral, the Musée d’Aquitaine is devoted to the history of life in Bordeaux, from ancient times through the 20th century. Exhibits illuminate the city’s intimate relationship with the river and sea since the Gallo-Roman period, its role in the slave and wine trades, and its emergence as France’s principal seaport. Visitors can rent an English audio guide, which details 24 of the museum’s masterpieces, including a partial reproduction of the famous Lascaux cave and Montaigne’s tomb.

Guests at this 13-room retreat in Costa Rica’s central highlands can tour the estate’s 36 acres of coffee fields. After the walk, try a “cupping,” or tasting, of the shade-grown organic blends. End with a soak in your suite’s jungle-view tub. From $250. (305) 395-3042


After a couple days resting up at The Retreat Costa Rica, I was off on my next adventure. Finca Rosa Blanca, which doubles as a boutique hotel and coffee plantation, proved the perfect setting for exploration both near and far. I stayed in the La Guaria junior suite—each has it’s own name—this one named after a local flower. Having come from New York where apartments are cramped, I was pleasantly surprised by the spacious layout of the villa. The entrance leads into a circular area, with sky lights above that form a sort of dome. There’s a separate kitchen and dining area, a bathroom complete with a whirlpool, and a separate bedroom featuring a kingsize bed. My favorite part of La Guaria were the two balconies. There’s a small one right off of the bedroom, where I’d usually listen to the rain falling hard against the roof in the afternoon. In the mornings and again in the evenings, I’d make myself a cup of coffee and catch up on my emails outside on the larger terrace. It overlooks a large grass farm, as well as the flowers that grow on the property.


Speaking of coffee, Finca Rosa Blanca, is also a coffee plantation. On my first full day at the hotel, I signed up for their guided coffee tour, where I learned the ins and outs of coffee-making in Costa Rica—things like how Arabic coffee is the only type of coffee grown here and how the blonder the roast, the more caffeine it has; I always assumed the opposite. Our tour group was small but we had a guest appearance by the finca’s two adopted dogs—aptly named Finca and Rosa. It’s a mother and daughter, and I loved watching them run around the plantation and play in the little waterfall separating one bank from the other. The second part of the tour was an actual coffee tasting, where we sampled a “good” cup of coffee and an “over roasted” cup. I was surprised how many flavors and aromas I could pick up despite always claiming that I have a poor sense of smell...and silently resolved to skip the milk and sugar next time.


As for the food and lounge areas, there are some really creative spots. The El Tigre Vestido restaurant has both outdoor and indoor seating; I mostly ate in their open-air sections but definitely took advantage of the fire crackling in the evenings. It can get a little chilly there at night. On my last full day at Finca Rosa Blanca, I went all out. First up was a scenic (and very uncrowded) hike to Barva volcano. I learned that, while a national park, it’s one of Costa Rica’s hidden secrets. There were few tourists along our path, allowing us to feel like we had wandered into an enchanted forest out of a story book. Back at the finca, I indulged at their spa, with their Pura Vida Coffee Detox Package: a Swedish full-body massage, a coffee and chocolate body scrub and a refreshing facial. After a challenging hike that morning, it was just what the doctor ordered. Fun fact: There’s some great art here and I’m not just talking about the murals on the walls (there are some super colorful ones at the pool); One of the owners, Glenn, is an artist by trade and he designed all the metal work seek throughout the property, right here on-site.

For a fancy night out, head to Studio in the Montage Laguna Beach. Perched on a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the restaurant offers a stylish setting in which to enjoy California coastal cuisine, much of it made with the freshest possible produce from the resort’s own raised-bed garden. The menu here is constantly changing to incorporate seasonal ingredients, but often includes such delicious options as braised Mediterranean octopus carpaccio, artichoke barigoule caramelle pasta, and 40-day dry-aged prime beef strip loin. Also on offer is an award-winning wine list with more than 2,000 bottles from all over the world. Inspired by an elegant yet charming beach cottage, the Craftsman-style space features expansive doors and windows, which let in the ocean breeze as you dine on dish after delicious dish.

Founded by four Swiss brothers mistakenly abandoned in Genoa in 1826, Fratelli Klainguti celebrates their love of all things pastry, and to this day the place serves some of the most delicious breakfast treats in town, alongside cups of steamy cappuccino. Verdi himself loved Klainguti—with his opera Falstaff named in honor of the delicious treat he enjoyed there!

On the white-sand beach of Playa Flamingo, Coco Loco has everything you need to set your afternoon or evening on the right note. Enjoy fresh food and delicious cocktails in a fun, laid-back environment. Make sure to try their signature drink, the Coco Loco: a sweet and flamboyantly colored concoction.

Nestled under an old tree, Lazy Wave offers fresh Asian, Latin, and European fusion cuisine. The setting is wonderful, with fluffy cushioned couches and candle-lit tables in an exotic garden.

On arrival at Terranea, it’s natural to release a big, tension-melting sigh. The resort occupies 100-plus acres along the bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, providing expansive views of the Pacific and a sense of spaciousness that’s rare in the city. The Mediterranean-style resort hotel spent $40 million in 2017 to upgrade the property, which includes 582 guest rooms and suites, eight bungalows, four swimming pools (take the kids to the 140-foot waterslide at the Resort Pool), and one acclaimed golf course. At its upscale wellness-minded spa, ingredients grown on the grounds go into the treatments, which are designed and timed to improve the body’s circadian rhythm.

Pure pampering aside, regulars return in part for the unparalleled access to dozens of postcard-pretty hiking trails, including a naturalist-led walk (there’s also a falconry program). One of the resort’s nine restaurants can meet virtually any craving that hits, but the mar’sel‘s scallops with basil risotto should be non-negotiable. Pro tip: Book a visit in December or January to watch the sun rise and set from the same vantage point—and maybe even spot some humpback whales.

When you’re ready for a proper pisco, Miraflores’s PiscoBar is a capital choice, both for traditional cocktails as well as heady new creations. As is to be expected, owner Ricardo Carpio is a celebrated pisco expert, which makes this the ideal laboratory for personal tastings of some of the country’s premier brands. Happily, it’s also a fabulous place to eat, whether you’re craving tapas or a full-on meal. Dishes like the seafood risotto and the beef with tacu tacu (Peruvian refried beans and rice) make you wish you had a Peruvian grandmother; the welcoming staff provide a warm facsimile.

Palácio Ramalhete has the soul of a historic property—Manuel II, Portugal’s last king, and Britain’s Duke of Windsor were once guests—without any of the attendant stuffiness. Set in an 18th-century palace on the handsome Rua das Janelas Verdes, each of the 16 accommodations has its own unique character. The Oak Suite, for instance, features wood wall paneling with an ornate carved-stucco ceiling, while the spacious Dove Room, which occupies the palace’s former chapel, is lined with original hand-painted blue-and-white azulejos (ceramic tiles).


There are three tiered internal courtyards; the highest has a small heated outdoor pool with a massive palm tree for shade and River Tagus views in the distance. Art lovers, take note: Opposite the hotel is the National Museum of Ancient Art, filled with important Portuguese works that include 15th-century painter Nuno Gonçalves’s famous Panels of St. Vincent.

Set within the 24-acre oasis of Montage Kapalua Bay, this pop-up bar and lounge pairs Veuve Clicquot Champagne with Maui’s world-class sunsets. Open Thursday through Sunday from 3:30 p.m. to 7 p.m., the Champagne Hale (pronounced HAH-leh, which is the Hawaiian word for house) serves a range of bubbly, from Veuve’s signature Yellow Label, Rosé, and La Grande Dame labels to special Rich and Rich Rosé offerings, available for the first time on the island. Pair your sips with light bites like Kualoa Ranch oysters, bigeye tuna tartare, and burrata toast with pickled strawberries and pistachio pesto, then take in the views as the sun goes down over the Pacific. From the bar’s clifftop perch above Namalu Bay, you’ll enjoy stunning vistas of the ocean as well as Molokai and Lanai islands in the distance.

Petite, luxurious Villa Deevena is at the heart of nature in Playa Negra, Los Pargos. Its clean lines announce this is something different and the magical dishes that come from Chef Patrick Jamon’s kitchen have created a local sensation, with an emphasis on seafood, always fresh and locally sourced. Exuberant tropical tastes (with a dash of the French) add to a refined, never-mass-tourism vibe.

North of Santa Teresa, in Playa Hermosa, you’ll find sushi master Koji Hyodo carving yellowfin tuna, red snapper, and sea bass at his tinkling, tin-roofed restaurant, Koji’s. His signature Koji Roll wraps spicy tuna around fresh shrimp paste and avocado. Then the entire roll is drizzled with a secret sauce and dipped in crunchy tempura bits. The grilled octopus is lightly fired, then sprinkled with sea salt; his lobster sashimi, sliced so thin you can almost see through it, starts with a crunch and finishes sweet.

El Pelicano is a local spot recommended by some folks that live in the area. It’s a lovely beachfront spot that drops ‘fresh from the water’ seafood on your plate, along with ice cold beer (or wine) to accompany it. The dining area is big, open and airy, and big enough to seat the masses. The crashing of the waves is also soothing as you down ‘just one more bite’ of that locally crafted meal that came from the water you can hear.