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D.H. Lawrence detested it. Langston Hughes loved it. It’s probably safe to say that no one who has seen bullfighting comes away ambivalent about it. If you can stomach the blood and the inevitable death of the bull (and, perhaps, the injury of the matador), then a Sunday afternoon at Plaza México, the largest bullring in the world, is one place to experience a centuries-old tradition. The Spanish brought bullfighting to Mexico when they arrived in the New World, and though the sport has become increasingly controversial in recent years (it’s even been banned entirely in the Mexican states of Coahuila, Guerrero, and Sonora, and its prohibition has been discussed–but not yet passed– in Mexico City), it’s one of the few places where such formality, pageantry, skill, and–yes, some would say– savagery can be witnessed for the price of a few pesos.

This shop, down a tiny sunny alley off a sidestreet in Colonia Roma (Córdoba 67 interior 7), is like many other Mexico City’s shops that support women’s crafts collective, but it’s slightly different in that it carefully curates its inventory—made using the local traditional crafts of weaving, embroidery, jewelry-making—choosing only those pieces that complement a more modern lifestyle. Yes, that’s a traditional huipil, or pullover tunic, from Guerrero, but while this simple embroidered piece would work for your abuela, it would also look cool at your graphic design gig in LA. The shop has outlets at Hotel Condesa DF and its products are carried by stores in Puebla and Tulum.

Although Mexico City gets much of the credit for its country’s booming culinary scene, Guadalajara also features an incredible variety of flavors. The city has something for everyone, from classic street food like spicy tortas and stews, to fine-dining restaurants offering a sophisticated take on regional dishes, to a burgeoning craft beer and cocktail culture.

Mexico City was host of the 1968 Olympic Games, and today, a number of the venues used during the Games remain open and accessible to the public, including the Alberca Olímpica. Renovated in 2009, the complex is best known for its Olympic-size pool, which is open to the public for a fee, though it also has spaces for a variety of other sports activities, including martial arts, yoga, tennis, speed skating, and capoeira.

Art spaces, wellness retreats, and fine restaurants await, along with 22 miles of trails to reward hikers and cyclists with stellar vistas of New Mexico’s legendary landscapes, including the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the Rio Grande River. The city’s epicenter, known as the Plaza, offers dining, window shopping, and Americana treasures. Start your visit with our A Perfect Day in Santa Fe guide, and then go a little deeper with the following recommendations.

Hiking in this enchanted land is a must, with options varying from light to vigorous. Accessible all-season terrain is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts who relish canyon lands, peaks, and elevation inclines—not to mention pristine air and picturesque tableaux. Expect to see flawless aspen groves and wide panoramas of Santa Fe and the surrounding desert, and don’t forget to carry water.

Seminal American artist Georgia O’Keeffe drew inspiration from the lunar landscapes of New Mexico. Follow in her footsteps at some of her favorite painting spots—The White Place, The Black Place (part of Bisti Badlands), and the home of the “Lawrence tree”—or splurge on a 10-day art retreat at her remote studio getaway, Ghost Ranch. View her most famous works and her letters and journals at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe, then stop by her adobe studio to see her paints, easel, and impeccable mid-century furniture. Grab a Georgia O’Keeffe biography at Bode’s, her favorite general store in the center of Abiquiu, then round off your art odyssey with “The O’Keeffe Table” at Eloisa: a five-course tasting menu that pays tribute to the foods O’Keeffe cooked at home. —By Edmund Vallance

A family-owned ceramics studio, Cerámica Suro opened in the 1950s to manufacture wares for luxury hotels. When José Noé Suro, the son of the original owner, took over the factory, he invited some of his artist friends to collaborate on projects and began producing dinnerware for some of Mexico’s top restaurants. Today, visits to the factory are by appointment only; contact Journey Mexico to schedule a tour.

The studio recently moved to the art gallery, House of Gaga (October 2023 update).

The newest kid on the block of shopping malls, this recently inaugurated upscale mall features many US chains such as Victoria’s Secret. It’s still a work in progress, but it’s already become a favorite with locals.

A local favorite, Bar La Ranita (Little Frog) is attached to the Hotel Rana Cansada (Tired Frog) and has been around since 1984. The ambiance is laid back, but the prices are affordable and the margaritas pack a powerful punch.

There’s a lot to recommend the Camino Real in Polanco, especially if you’re an architecture and art aficionado. The hotel, designed by the late Mexican architect Ricardo Legoretta, is considered one of his master works; the shape of its pink and yellow exterior is intended to call to mind a pre-Hispanic pyramid, and its caldera-like fountain in the driveway, designed by Noguchi, is perpetually roiling. Inside, you’ll find museum-quality art, including pieces by Mexican masters José Luís Covarrubias and Rufino Tamayo, as well as Alexander Calder. Rooms are large, quiet, and comfortable, and the hotel, a favorite among business travelers, has a full complement of amenities, ranging from pools and a fitness center to a number of restaurants, including Morimoto.

Mexico City has no dearth of luxurious boutique hotels, but Las Alcobas is a special option. Designed by famed firm Yabu Pushelberg, the hotel is full of gorgeous details, from hand-stitched leather wall coverings to a spiral staircase that surges up from the lobby. Upon arrival, guests enjoy a welcome drink as a bellman leads them to their room; explains the technology that controls the light, sound and temperature; and offers them a selection of handmade soaps. Once settled in, they can lounge in plush robes on their goose-down comforters while sampling snacks from the minibar. For a heartier meal, Las Alcobas offers two excellent restaurants. Just outside the hotel’s front door, there’s also Presidente Masaryk, Polanco’s main avenue full of restaurants and high-end boutiques.

Why we love it: An intimate stay with Pujol connections

The Highlights:
- Just two bedrooms, so you feel like part of the family
- The chance to meet members of chef Enrique Olvera’s acclaimed team
- Regular chef-led dinners

The Review:
When renowned chef Enrique Olvera had to move his multi-award-winning Pujol restaurant into a larger space, he kept the original Polanco location and turned it into a creative hub for his team—a place inspired by artist residences, where creative minds from a variety of fields (though primarily culinary) can come together to exchange ideas. Centered around an open kitchen and a communal dining table for 10, the Casa hosts a regular program of talks, events, and workshops—many open to the public—that help facilitate discussion.

Those who want some extra time to get the creative juices flowing—or just a truly unique base in Mexico City—are also in luck, as the Casa houses two bedrooms that are now available to book via Airbnb. Simple and airy, with wooden desk-cum-closet units, attached bathrooms, and fluffy white beds, the rooms are perfect for resting, clearing your mind, and seeing what comes to you. Though you’ll definitely want to hang out downstairs, too, both for the food (a chef-cooked breakfast is included) and the chance to mingle with members of Olivera’s team as they make use of the library and workspaces. Check ahead to see if any chef-led dinners are taking place while you’re there—then be sure to book a spot.

I know when you go on holiday to Bali Mexico is probably the last place you’re thinking you’ll want to be, but Motel Mexicola is an awesomely kitsch Mexican cantina and bar not to be missed. Go early for dinner because even though this place is enormous, it gets packed on the weekends. The feel good factor is fueled by the bright decor, awesome margaritas, beers served super cold and food that is as close to real Mexican as you’ll get in Bali.

This Playa del Carmen restaurant takes its name from a traditional Mexican dish known as aguachile: chili-marinated shrimp with lime juice, onion, and sometimes other ingredients that lend it a strong, spicy-citrus flavor. With its open-air setting and laid-back, beachy style, plus a location a few blocks from bustling 5th Avenue, Los Aguachiles is in fact more local hangout than tourist joint. There’s an extensive menu of other casual Mexican seafood, most notably delicious tacos and tostadas (crispy tortillas piled high with traditional ingredients), as well as mezcal cocktails and chamochela (michelada-style beer mixed with sauces, then rimmed with chili powder and decorated with a shrimp).