Search results for

It’s not surprising that many Québec City chefs have been trained in classic French cooking. But a number of them are taking those skills in unexpected directions, incorporating unusual ingredients and devising their own signature preparations. One admired member of this new generation is Christian Lemelin, the innovative chef and owner of Le Restaurant SSS (Simple Snack Sympathique) and restaurant Toast! at Hôtel Le Priori. Sadly, Toast! is indefinitely closed following a fire in December 2017 (though hopes are that it will reopen soon). In the meantime, the more causal Le Restaurant SSS continues to serve its signature salmon and beef tartares, foie gras with fig spiced mustard, and mushroom risotto to Lemelin’s loyal patrons and curious visitors to Québec City. There’s a five-course tasting menu at dinner that highlights the best of Québec’s bounty, both from the Atlantic and the province’s farms, and even a young taster’s menu for kids, including croque monsieur and poutine among the options.

An overnight stay at Tonquin Valley Adventures’ lodge is perhaps the best way to experience the wilderness of the Canadian Rockies. (It’s a well-earned one, too: The lodge lies almost 20 kilometers, or about 12 miles, from the nearest road!) To get there, hike the Tonquin Valley backcountry from Edith Cavell Road to the path alongside Astoria River before reaching the Ramparts Mountains. The setting is surreal, as the lodge has a series of cabins with unforgettable views. A short walk leads guests to the edge of Amethyst Lake, where canoes, kayaks, and rowboats await to take you on your next adventure.

To me, no other place in Montréal represents the city better than Place d’Armes. After all, it is the second oldest public site in the city, and its center is home to a statue of Paul de Chomedey, the founder of Montréal. And the varied architectural styles surround the square in a way that clearly demonstrates just how old and historic Montréal is. A blend of Gothic Revival, classic Art Deco, and ultra-modern sleek skyscrapers illustrates the major periods of Montréal’s development. It’s definitely a great place to start or end an Old Montreal exploratory tour, or to stop and people watch!

Few things characterize autumn in North American more than apple picking, apple pies, and apple cider. If you feel like connecting with nature and experiencing a Canadian tradition, head to the western tip of the island and the Labonté Orchard for a wee session of apple picking. There is a small admission fee of $2, and you are free to stay on site for as long as you like. If you don’t go for the apple picking, go for the heaven-sent desserts at the on-site café. The apple crumble will make you a believer.

Each summer the Atlantic Film Festival brings Halifax the AlFresco FilmFesto on the waterfront boardwalk. The AlFresco FilmFesto takes place on Friday nights from July to August and features outdoor movies, often with a theme, like Billy Murray movies or Spielberg films. They are projected on a large screen on the boardwalk which runs along the harbor. It’s free (with a requested donation), so bring a blanket or chair to sit on and enjoy a movie under the stars.

There is something fundamentally different in the air of this Eastern Townships winery—something I couldn’t quite grasp but that made me want to stay forever. The winery, which specializes in ice wines and ciders, was founded a few years ago by three young, passionate investors and lifelong friends, and it has since received immense praise, both from its clientele and the wine industry. For me, I think the setting is what sets it apart from other wineries. A charming bright-red barn overlooks acres of dense forest and rolling hills.

A popular hangout, Kits Beach—as the locals call it—faces English Bay, and in the summertime it buzzes with beach activities. Volleyball players and Frisbee tossers mingle with sun worshippers, windsurfers and skim boarders. For sand-free dips and swimming lessons, there’s a heated saltwater pool that’s open when weather permits. Also in the vicinity is the Boathouse Restaurant, which serves peel-and-eat shrimp, tasty chowders and fresh grilled fish on a patio with panoramic views.

If you happen to be French, French Canadian, or simply of French descent, the Musée de l’Amérique Francophone (Museum of Francophone America) in the heart of Old Québec will be of special interest—the interactive displays will help you trace your family heritage. It’s worth a visit even if you don’t have French ancestors, however, as an introduction to Québec’s francophone community, its remarkable history, and the story of how the culture has survived, even after being absorbed into the British Empire and then sharing a country where Francophones are far outnumbered by Anglophones. Exhibits trace the history of the francophone community beyond the province, including migrations to New England and the Canadian Prairies. You’ll also learn about lost episodes in the history of New France, like the settlement of Cap-Rouge, which existed for only two years (1541 to 1543) and was recently rediscovered. And see if you can peek inside the deconsecrated chapel from 1900 that’s within the museum, though was constructed as part of the Québec Seminary, located next door. This lavishly restored space is often used for private events, but you can ask the guards to let you take a quick look.

The Place Royale in the Lower Town is a modest cobblestoned square lined with some souvenir shops and restaurants, in restored buildings that span the 17th to 19th centuries, as well as Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, which dates from 1688 (making it the oldest stone church in North America). While it may be small in scale, it looms large in terms of its symbolism: This is where Quebec City was founded, in 1608, so it’s a symbolic heart not just of the city but of the province. The church, which sits in the middle of the square, has been rebuilt several times over the past three centuries; its interior has been extensively restored in recent decades to bring it closer to its original French colonial character. On the north side of the square, the Musée de la Place-Royale covers the long history of the square and its inhabitants, beginning with Samuel de Champlain.

Most people travel to Canada in the winter to ski the famous big resorts like Whistler and Lake Louise. But 20 minutes from downtown Banff is a little “hill"—as the Canadians like to call their mountains—called Sunshine Village. The resort, located on the continental divide of the Canadian Rockies, spans more than 3,300 acres and has three mountains to explore. I visited in mid-March (locals say March conditions are often best) and we had perfect powder. The resort stays open through late May for those looking to extend their ski season. The ski-in, ski-out Sunshine Mountain Lodge is a perfect base for those who want to get first chair in the morning. Rooms have great views of the surrounding mountains and loft-style rooms with Murphy beds are perfect for couples or families. I liked the lodge’s unique offerings such as hot tub bingo night and new yoga and ski retreats. The mountain has terrain for all levels. Serious skiers and riders will want to go off-piste and experience Delirium Dive. A check-in gate ensures skiers and riders are equipped with a beacon and safety gear before they tackle the Dive. On Lookout Mountain, you’re likely to find powder stashes on some of the steep tree runs such as Little Angel, and Horot’s Revenge. And don’t miss the frozen waterfall on the way down the Waterfall run off the Wawa chair.

You can find a respectable beer selection at most Banff Avenue restaurants, but a well-crafted cocktail requires a little more intel. For a fabulous mixed drink, head to Block Kitchen + Bar on Caribou Street, an intimate venue specializing in all things shaken and stirred. With concoctions like the Gin Beetroot Sour and the Coffee & Artichoke Negroni, you’ll be glad you ventured off the main drag. You can grab tapas and gourmet sandwiches here too, like the Red Devil Calamari appetizer with spicy Thai sauce or the Kuterra Salmon on ciabatta bread. Keep in mind this teeny spot has limited seating, so arrive early or roll in fashionably late to get a seat.

Since it was built back in 1976, the CN Tower has topped the must-visit list of most Toronto tourists. Until recently, a visit was pretty standard; hop in elevator, shoot up to the observation deck, and ogle the city from a hawk’s vantage point. While this was certainly fine and enjoyable, the since-developed EdgeWalk experience has ramped up the Tower’s bucket-list potential. Thrill-seekers can now do a hands-free, breezy circumnavigation of the tower’s roof, up at 1,168 feet. And, yes, they do perform sky-high weddings complete with elasticized rings and special attire for the big day.

Handily situated two minutes from the subway, and at the junction of three of the city’s most popular tourist neighborhoods, the Hotel Place d’Armes makes for an easy, car-free vacation. Situated in a beautifully restored stone building with intricate gargoyles, pillars, and oversize arcade widows dating back to 1870, it was originally the Great Scottish Life Insurance Company building. The rather masculine formal lobby gives way to plenty of cozy nooks and inviting couches, with a pool table on offer for those who fancy a game. Guest rooms feature original, exposed brick and stone walls, and the earthy natural palette is brightened by deep-red leather chairs and couches. The Place d’Armes has an easy upgrade policy, so it’s worth asking for one upon check-in; most guests will get an upgrade on request, depending on availability. Throughout summer, the hotel’s rooftop Terrasse is one of the city’s most popular outdoor hot spots.

The atmosphere alone in this Iranian restaurant is a wonderful introduction to any day. The sunny, high-ceilinged space on Avenue Laurier Ouest is decorated with nice wooden furniture and traditional Middle-Eastern patterned pillows, for your ultimate comfort as you sip sweet mint tea served in small gilded glasses and decide what to order. Will it be the selection of flatbreads served with fresh herbs, nuts and fresh cheese? It comes with a selection of house-made jams like kiwi and passion fruit or orange blossom. The “omelets” are also very special – they’re actually scrambled eggs mixed with ingredients such as feta cheese and dill. Photo: Frédérique Ménard Aubin

Opened in 2005, the Jasper Brewing Company was the first brewpub within a Canadian national park. It is now a local’s staple hangout. Seven different beers—like the Rockhopper IPA and Honey Bear Ale—are brewed on location, so make sure to order a brewery tour along with a fresh pint. The food menu is pub fare with a special flare to help bring out the flavors of the beer. The brewpub, open daily from 11:30am to 1:00am, is child-friendly, too, as the venue is divided into two, with both a restaurant and pub. Beer from $5.50. Contact 1-780-852-4111.