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Founder’s Note: Learning AFAR

In France, many châteaux (a term that sometimes translates to “castle” but can also refer to an ornate, castle-like mansion) are open as museums. However, Domaine de Maffliers, a 19th-century château nestled in the countryside just 45 minutes north of Paris, gives travelers the rare chance to spend the night in one. Though centuries old, the bar, restaurants, and 8 guest rooms have been recently renovated after a fire destroyed much of the building in 2020.

The interiors of each guest room are unique from one another, but all of them exude opulence and luxury—from the velvet chairs and curtains to the freestanding bathtubs—that allow guests to immerse themselves in the grandeur of its history.

In a city like Houston, which is bursting with international flavor, it’s not difficult to find fantastic Indian food. But Anita Jaisinghani, co-owner of the beloved Indika, serves up the best of the best with Pondicheri. The menu here revolves around unique takes on India’s street foods, including pakoras and a daily selection of samosas. In terms of main dishes, the best way to sample what’s being offered is by getting the vegetable or meat thali—a daily selection of dishes and sides perfect for sharing. Other standouts include desi fries (French fries dusted with Indian spices), naan with roasted garlic, and fresh-baked cookies.

Despite being northern Colorado, Steamboat Springs offers belly-filling home-style southern cooking at the Low Country Kitchen right on Lincoln Avenue. Dig into the classics (without the greasy coating), like fried okra and buttermilk fried chicken, or go for the jambalaya or hush puppies. For south of the border–style grub, pop into Salt & Lime and head for the rooftop seating. Start with some loaded nachos then choose from a range of classic tacos and burritos; finish off with fresh churros. The menu changes frequently, with new and exciting dishes becoming available.

Cemeteries don’t often end up on a traveler’s “must-see” list - unless they are going to Vienna. The massive Zentralfriedhof, or Central Cemetery, isn’t actually centralized. In fact, it lies far to the south of the city. With over 300,000 internments and around 495 acres, it’s one of the world’s largest cemeteries and the final resting place for a who’s who of Austrian cultural icons. Most notable are the final resting places of Vienna’s greatest musicians, including Beethoven, Brahms, Schubert, Strauss I & II, and even Falco. Architect Adolf Loos, sculpter Fritz Wotruba, and a crypt of Austrian presidents also make for a fascinating look at the country’s more well-known residents. The grounds also hosts the Art Nouveau Dr. Karl Lueger-Gedächtniskirche (Memorial Church), a Russian Orthodox Chapel, and burial grounds for Jewish, Muslim and Buddhist faiths. The cemetery is easily reached by S-Bahn and bus. Buses also travel between the sections, as do horse-drawn carriages.

While most pizza in the Napa Valley is made with thin crusts and cooked in wood-fired ovens, Velo Pizzeria takes a different approach, featuring a yeast crust that’s doughy and chewy and using pizza ovens. The result is more like the stuff you might find in New York City. Options abound but the Nineteen Steps is by far the most creative, topped with rosemary fries, fennel sausage, tomato sauce, mozzarella, and citrus zest. (There’s also a white pizza topped with wine grapes and gorgonzola.) The menu at Velo also offers pasta, subs, and salads. Inside, the pizzeria has a warehouse vibe, with exposed brick walls and steel railings that lead to a second-floor loft. The restaurant looks out onto the Napa River, providing great opportunities for people-watching on sunny days.

I have eaten a lot of pizza in my time, but Kesté is different. It’s been been firing up serious, foodie-level delicious pizza on Bleecker Street since 2009. Owner Roberto Caporuscio was born and raised outside Naples, Italy, where he studied the art of pizza making with the masters. His pizzeria has won accolades from national food critics, as well as pizza lovers. The 950-degree oven turns out perfectly-cooked pizzas—with bubbling, chewy, slightly burned crusts—in less than two minutes. The wide-ranging menu covers traditional pizzas, gluten-free options, panini (lunch only), and creative pies, including: Pistacchio e Salsiccia (pistachio pesto, sausage, pecorino romano, homemade buffalo mozzarella, basil); Pizza del Papa (butternut squash cream, red and yellow peppers, zucchini, imported smoked buffalo mozzarella); and Sorrentina (imported smoked buffalo mozzarella, sliced lemons, basil). My favorite is Salciccia e Friarielli (broccoli rabe and sausage with imported smoked mozzarella). The slight bitterness of the greens, the hearty sausage, and the smoky, creamy cheese on their trademark crust smells, looks, and tastes heavenly.

Some say that Keller’s second restaurant in Yountville is even better than his flagship, the French Laundry. The rest of us may never know. But Bouchon is open until midnight seven days a week, and you can grab a seat at the bar without a reservation and spare yourself the theatrics of the more formal dining. Champagne, oysters, and French fries are a fine first course, and the bar also makes a mean martini.

Bouchon is a Thomas Keller star (at a third the price of French Laundry). which serves unpretentious, French fare with a Keller twist. From Croque Madame to steak and roasted chicken, the kitchen puts out classical French bistro fare. Try sitting at the marble-topped bar with a Pastis in one hand and a spoon for mussels in the other. Not only is it quite affordable, but if you are lucky enough to snag an outdoor seat, you may also sit, Paris-style, all afternoon chatting with friends (and I dare you to resist walking into the Bouchon bakery two steps away to complete your meal- or grab a foie treat for your dog!).

Browsing Berlin’s many flea markets is a great way to spend a few hours on a sunny afternoon. Most of Berlin’s neighborhoods host flea markets on the weekends. Prenzlauer Berg’s Mauerpark is one of the largest and most popular in Berlin, while Friedrichshain’s Boxhagener Platz market attracts a young and international crowd. Rummage around and you’ll be sure to find unique souvenirs amongst Berlin’s vintage clothes and retro offerings.

Along with Vienna, Salzburg and the Alps are Austria’s top draws and the perfect place to spend the second half of a two week trip. Mozart’s Salzburg is adorned with beautiful gardens, a mighty fortress and great museums. Salzburg is the perfect gateway to the Austrian Alps, dotted with quaint villages like Hallstatt, pristine lakes and Austria’s most well known resorts, including the famous Kitzbühel. Trek through the Alps or just enjoy the views from cities like Salzburg and Innsbruck.

The traditional seat of business and fashion in Italy, Milan is the place other Italians love to hate—which means that it obviously has much to love. On the obvious side of the scales you’ll find Leonardo’s “Last Supper” and an outrageously beautiful cathedral, less so are the art and dining scenes which become more complex by the day. Ranging further afield, travelers will discover day trips to great wine regions, incredible contemporary art collections, and Lake Como (and George Clooney).

Unlike in America, whisky is spelled without the “e” in Scotland—but that’s not the only difference. Learn about what makes a single malt and other interesting facts by visiting one of Scotland’s best distilleries, many of which are located on the Isle of Islay. Several are even surrounded by great natural beauty, meaning you can sip your Scotch while enjoying the scenery.

One week in Kenya will no doubt leave you wanting lots more time to explore this wildly beautiful country, but if seven days is all you’ve got, there’s still a great range of sights you can pack in. A good place to start is with a couple of nights in one of Kenya’s national parks, followed by a visit to the Kenyan coast for a little relaxation. Don’t miss a final night or two in Nairobi to pick up some handcrafted gifts and explore Kenya’s capital.

Amsterdam is a shopper’s paradise, with vintage shops, one-of-a-kind boutiques, Dutch design outlets and pop-up boutiques throughout the city. If you’re a serious shopper, you won’t want to miss special shopping streets like Haarlemmerstraat/Haarlemmerdijk, Hazenstraat, Utrechtstraat, Kalverstraat, Leidsestraat and the nine small streets that comprise the Negen Straatjes. All offer great window shopping, as well as retail treasures you may not yet know you can’t live without.

On Guadeloupe, keeping active with the family is a part of everyday life. Parents love to head outside and play with their kids. Many beaches are illuminated at night, so families can go for a swim, jog, or game of volleyball even after the adults have finished work. Guadeloupe National Park is everyone’s favorite outdoor playground, offering nature hikes, waterfalls, and thermal pools for all ages. The archipelago is, therefore, a great place for families to visit. And there’s also cultural learning in the form of botanical gardens, colorful markets, museums, and former plantations.