Search results for

The rooftop terrace of Casa Crespo restaurant affords this view of Santo Domingo church. It’s a great place to watch the sunset or while away the evening with dinner or drinks. The menu is varied and includes some local specialties such as mole and “stone soup,” a seafood soup that is cooked with hot rocks at your table. For appetizers, try the stuffed squash blossoms. They’re stuffed with cheese and deep fried - delectable but caloric. A 15% service charge is automatically added to your bill, so no need to tip extra.

Azul de Oaxaca Hotel + Galeria is among the numerous lodging options in the city’s colonial Centro neighborhood, but the aesthetic of this hotel tends more toward the contemporary, even though it is housed within one of the city’s typical 18th-century buildings. Respect for the centuries-old style is evident in the preservation of the building and courtyard. Rooms, though, are decorated with contemporary art and furnishings. Guests can enjoy a number of common areas, including a library, chapel, gallery and gift shop, patio lined with tall cacti, and rooftop terrace bar. On Sundays, guests are invited to enjoy local specialties, including quesadillas, at the on-site restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days a week.

The Instituto de Artesanias Oaxaqueños, also known as “ARIPO” has a wide selection of crafts from all over the state of Oaxaca. It’s housed in a colonial building on Garcia Vigil near the old aqueduct, and has this pretty central courtyard. Rooms surrounding the courtyard each display a different type of craft. You’ll find textiles, wood, ceramic, metal, palm, jewelry, and more. Quality is good; the institute holds yearly contests and some of the prize-winning pieces are on sale here. Open Monday to Friday only, from 9 am to 7 pm.

Los Baúles de Juana Cata is a must-stop for anyone interested in high quality textiles. The boutique is run by Remigio Mestas Revilla, who is devoted to reviving and preserving lost or disappearing textile techniques. He works directly with artisans in various communities who produce very fine pieces. The boutique offers blouses, dresses, embroidered huipiles, and rebozos (shawls) and other traditional garments. Many of the pieces are exquisite, and they are priced accordingly. The shop is located in the same building as Oro de Monte Alban jewelry store and Los Danzantes restaurant.

You might detect the aroma of fresh coffee on your stroll along the Macedonio Alcalá tourist corridor, and if you’re hankering for a caffeine hit, just follow your nose. Cafe Brújula has three locations, but the more central of the three is on Oaxaca‘s main pedestrian street. Order your coffee and snacks at the counter, then make your way to the back of the building and find a spot in the typical Oaxacan arched patio. Besides great coffee (roasted in small batches at their location on Garcia Vigil), they also offer tasty salads and sandwiches. There’s free Wi-fi, so if you need to get some work done, this is a good spot for it.

A refined yet rustic restaurant and guesthouse nestled into the rural landscape of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, Finca Blousson is a hidden treasure for wine lovers seeking life’s simplest pleasures. Pair the Bistro’s blend of Argentine and French Provencal fare with wines sourced from the region’s top local boutique wineries, and you’ll be treating yourself to an unforgettable experience. The intimate country guesthouse has three cozy rooms overlooking the vineyard or a spectacular view of the mountains. Owners Victoria Jones and her French partner, Patrick Blousson, will look after you like a member of their own family. Route 94, km 14, on the road to The Manzano Histórico, Tunuyan, Valle de Uco, Mendoza; +54 9 261 15 655 3382

If you’re looking for a day of grape-free respite in Mendoza, head off-the-grid to the hot springs of Cacheuta. The Terma Spa welcomes guests with an assemblage of thermal baths overlooking the scenic Mendoza River flowing downstream from the Andes. The indoor/outdoor thermal spa circuit winds through waters ranging in temperature from 73 to 105 degrees. Bubble beds, a water volcano and foot baths are strategically placed throughout the circuit to knead tense muscles. The Natural Solarium has a basin of therapeutic mud for slathering all over your body and baking on the pool deck. Scrub yourself clean in the bithermal hydrojet shower and kick back on the flowering Andaluz patio. Next, head underground to the vaporarium and detoxify in its natural steam. Relax in the verdant garden until you’re ready for an afternoon spa treatment or another convalescing soak in Cacheuta’s healing mineral waters.

This 23-room hotel has colonial charm even though the building is relatively new. The word “sotano” means basement in Spanish and the Hotel Casa del Sotano is thus named because the building’s first story is below street level. The lower level has a central patio with water features and lots of plants, so it’s both cheery and tranquil. The colonial furnishings, wrought iron, Mexican tile and artistic touches throughout the property add to its appeal. In the morning you can enjoy a cup of coffee on the terrace while you enjoy the view of the towers of Santo Domingo over the rooftops of Oaxaca city.

Los Danzantes is a hip restaurant offering contemporary Mexican cuisine. It’s located on Alcalá street, in the same building that houses the Oro de Monte Alban jewelry store. It’s in a large partially covered patio space, with adobe walls and a koi pond on one side, and a bar made of recycled materials. Many of the items on the menu are made with traditional Mexican ingredients, but combined in new and interesting ways, and presented artfully. If you’re not feeling adventurous, there are also a number of pasta dishes to choose from. For dessert, the cascada de chocolate (fondant cake), served with vanilla ice cream will satisfy any chocolate cravings you may have—but order it in advance because it takes about 20 minutes to prepare.

A full day of driving and exploration in a 4x4 from San Pedro de Atacama in the Altiplano near the border with Bolivia and Argentina are the highland lagoons of Miscanti and Miñiques, at an altitude of 13,860 feet. The scenery here is awe-inspiring with a palate of extraordinary colors that seem to be painted like a dreamscape encasing the Andes and volcanoes. Also worth exploration is is the remote Salar de Tara, close to Paso Jama and the Argentine border, with its marvelous rock “statues” (shown in the picture). Of the most famous is the “nuns” of Tara. Pack a picnic and take time to relish the scenery there with views of the Licancabur volcano, bird life, and salt lakes. You cannot help but feel inspired.

Oaxaca is known for its moles. The most famous is mole negro, the black mole—a thick, rich mixture of ground chiles, nuts, chocolate, and other ingredients. But that’s not the only type of mole you’ll find here. Los Pacos specializes in these rich sauces and you can sample seven different kinds to compare and see which you like best. If you find one you really love, they sell mole paste to take home with you, so you can prepare Oaxacan mole yourself. Los Pacos has two locations. The original is on Belisario Dominguez in the Colonia Reforma (north of the city center). This location is more popular among locals, and has an outdoor children’s play area. The other is on Abasolo in the historical center. The centrally located one has a roof terrace, perfect for enjoying warm evenings in Oaxaca.

Most of Oaxaca‘s better restaurants are quite new, but La Catedral has been around since 1976. It is a Oaxaca institution, and besides reliably tasty food, you can also expect a lovely atmosphere and seamless service. You can pick a spot in one of the indoor dining areas, or in the lovely back courtyard next to the fountain. The menu at La Catedral is extensive and includes Oaxacan specialties such as mole negro and mole amarillo, as well as chiles rellenos and sopa de guias (soup made with zucchini shoots), but my favorite dish is the huitlacoche crepes. They also offer a buffet on Sundays from 2 to 7 pm that is popular with well-to-do Oaxacan families.

The fact that Oaxaca is a hub of art and creativity is evident almost everywhere you look. Besides the abundance of beautiful architecture and colorful folk art and handicrafts, several important contemporary artists hail from Oaxaca, including three internationally renowned painters: Rufino Tamayo, Rodolfo Morales and Francisco Toledo. The Oaxacan painters museum is a space that celebrates the art and creativity of these, and other less well-known but also extremely talented artists from this southern Mexican state. The two-story restored colonial mansion that houses the Oaxacan painters museum has elegant arches surrounding a central courtyard, and rooms with pristine white walls that form the backdrop to paintings and other artwork. There’s no permanent collection here, but temporary exhibits run throughout the year, and the space is also used for workshops and courses.

The first glimpse you take at the Valle de la Luna (translated: “Moon Valley”) will make you feel like you’re visiting another planet. The deep red rocks, the massive sand dunes, and the speckling of salt across the surface is like nothing else I have seen on Earth. Peer closely at many of the rocks and you will see deep veins of salt. Stand close (and be quiet) and you can hear the rhythmic crackling of the salt as a result of the pressure in the rocks. The valley itself is 22 million years old, and scientists believe the salt was left behind from when an ocean covered this part of Chile. Located just a few miles outside of San Pedro de Atacama, the Valle de la Luna is an incredible place to hike, bike, and take in a spectacular sunset.

I’m on the fringe of a perfectly manicured polo field, flanked by the jagged steeples of the Calchaquí Valley mountains. Gaúchos speed lithe steeds up and down the green, while postcard-perfect vines, row upon row, pull my eyes toward the not-too-distant sand dunes. I’m gobsmacked by my surroundings, and furrow an eyebrow as a thought occurs to me: I’ve been exploring Grace Cafayate and the La Estancia de Cafayate property for a little more than 24 hours, and haven’t once thought about leaving the property. I can say with confidence that this is the first time this has happened to me. This idyllic parcel of land has exactly what I want in an escape: epic natural grandeur; peace and quiet; luxurious accommodations; five-star dining; a polo field and the largest golf course in South America; and wine. Bottomless barrels of wine.