Search results for

Life in Curaçao is a colorful mash-up of cultures. Locals speak a multitude of languages (four is the norm), thanks to its Dutch and Spanish colonial history and the influence of nearby South America. One of the best ways to get to know Curaçao is through its cuisine, a mix of sights, smells and flavors. You can take your pick among casual catch-of-the-day spots and chic beachside dining—for taste that’s uniquely its own among Caribbean islands.

Budapest is a historic city, full of parks, cafes, and noteworthy sights, but it isn’t always obvious where to go if you only have a few days. Treat your senses with authentic goulash and stuffed cabbage at the Great Market Hall, and check out the famous thermal baths that permeate the city. Visit the old castle, the statues at Memento Park, and the museums and myriad delights of Varosliget. If you get the chance, take a night cruise down the Danube to see the city lit up along the river.

Hoi An’s iconic noodle dish was tangled in mystery for decades. Then writer David Farley came to town.

If you have a gorgeously sunny afternoon, walk the Corso Italia to the small fishing village of Boccadasse, still considered to be part of Genoa. About an hour’s walk from central town, this seaside stroll will take you past black stone beaches, children’s parks, and countless bars and restaurants enjoying the beautiful sea views. When you arrive, make sure to roll up your pants and step in the water, as the sea spray alone is said to have healing properties.

The Museo del Novecento (Museum of the 20th century) is a visual lesson in one century of Italian art history. Housed is the 1930s Palazzo dell’Arengario by Rationalist architects Piero Portaluppi and Giovanni Muzio. The Novecento also houses an amazing collection, Who’s Who of the 1900s, including Italians Balla, Modigliani, Boccioni, Martini, Morandi, and De Chirico and international artists like Picasso, Matisse, and Klee. In fact, the museum is considered one of the world’s most important collections of Italian and international 20th-century art in Italy—Futurism, Spatialism, and Arte Povera. Keep your eye out for Piero Manzoni’s clever Arte Povera pieces, Arturo Marini’s large stone figures, and Pellizza Da Volpedo’s monumental painting Il Quarto Stato (The Fourth Estate). Martini also did the palazzo’s exterior bas relief. Bonus: The upper level bar/restaurant overlooks Piazza del Duomo.

Behold Gandria! When my Airbnb host first suggested I visit Gandria I was a little unsure, mostly because of it’s name. But boy was she right, this little village navigable exclusively by foot was so picturesque and quiet. Situated on a hill just off of the Lugano Lake this place is perfect day-trip distance from almost anywhere in Switzerland. Lugano and Gandria are only several thousand feet from the Swiss-Italian border making these towns seem like extensions of Italy. They speak Italian, serve great pizza, and even better coffee.

From the morning’s first jolt of espresso through the evening’s final sip of Tuscan wine, your tastebuds will be happy and engaged the whole time you’re in Florence. You’ve come to a city where cooking pasta is a fine art and where lunch at a tripe stand can be followed by the creamiest gelato you’ve ever tasted. Let others stand in line to see Michelangelo’s David—you’ve got another meal to eat.

One of only three trains in the world to have been recognized with UNESCO’s World Heritage status (the others are in Austria and India), this scenic passenger route was built in 1889 and stretches for 150 miles from Thusis, Switzerland, to Tirano, Italy, via 84 tunnels and 383 vertiginous bridges and viaducts. The rails don’t just connect this primordial landscape of sparkling teal rivers, hyacinth-blue glaciers, and jagged pink-hued rocks; they also serve a number of cities and towns, including St. Moritz and several Romansh-speaking villages in the stunning Engadine Valley. Keep the camera on, because the train zips past Roman-era chapels, Celtic archaeological sites, modernist thermal baths, and numerous Hapsburg-era castles—some crumbling atop mountains, others perfectly built into the Alps like something from Tolkien’s Rivendell. Highlights include the C-shaped Landwasser Viaduct, a 213-foot-high, six-arch viaduct spanning the Landwasser River, and the nine-arch spiral viaduct in Brusio that will have rail enthusiasts in a tizzy. Though this is not a sightseeing train, highlights are announced (somewhat annoyingly, in five or six languages) on the overhead system as the train passes them. Most trains have panoramic cars with curved glass ceilings and seats costing an additional five to 10 Swiss francs.

The Rome Cavalieri, like the Hassler and St. Regis, is synonymous with five-star luxury in Rome. The hotel, opened in the 1960s, channels a Versailles-meets–Dolce Vita vibe, and given its unbridled opulence, it’s a top destination for honeymooners and jet-setters seeking the ultimate comforts. Its location atop Montemario, a hillside residential district north of the Vatican, offers spectacular views of the city from various terraced levels and many of the rooms. The very location, affording such panoramas, is also a drawback for travelers wishing to be in the thick of it all, so the Rome Cavalieri is best suited to those who relish spending significant time in the hotel rather than out on the town.

There are plenty of appealing amenities for guests who choose to stick around the property. The outdoor pools, the finest in Rome, are set amid lush gardens. The pool area doubles as a sort of private club for local elite and is ripe for Italian athlete and celebrity sightings. Back inside, the lobby and rooms are sumptuously furnished and feature antiques and original works of art.

With a nod to the neighborhood’s tradition of carpentry, this furniture store sells chairs, tables, bowls, and wall hooks made of Chilean lenga wood, crafted with clean, modern lines and smooth finishes. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

Founder’s Note: Uncommon Travels

I’m not one to skip breakfast, especially in Italy, where thoughts of cappuccino, pastries, and local ham tend to rouse me early from slumber. But on my first morning at the Hotel Sant’Angelo, in the old quarter of Matera, I was having a hard time dragging myself from the creature comforts of my cave. Staying in a cave, it turns out, can be surprisingly pleasant. There was just one small window high overhead, but the room and adjoining bath were in no way dank—a testament to the natural ventilation that keeps the caves cool and comfortable. The wavy contours of the white tufa-rock walls conjured a feeling of being enveloped in some primordial womb. Yet there were modern amenities: luxurious linens, Internet service, a telephone. Fred Flintstone never had it this good. I might have snoozed until noon, were it not for an impatient mate eager to see the sights. We had arrived in the village the previous night after a long drive across the treeless plains of the Basilicata region, located at the instep of Italy’s boot. Matera is an enchanted world of Stone Age splendor. Known as the sassi (Italian for stones), the bisque-colored hilltop cave homes comprise one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on earth, according to UNESCO. The caves have provided shelter for more than 7,000 years. A millennium ago, shepherds inhabited them and carved churches into the rock; during the Renaissance, the area prospered and elaborate buildings were carved out, the excess tufa sculpted into ornate facades. By the early 1900s, the sassi had fallen into neglect. Families and their animals crowded into the caves for warmth, and disease was rampant. When writer Carlo Levi brought this tragic state of affairs to light with his 1945 book Christ Stopped At Eboli, the Italian authorities moved residents en masse to modern housing—leaving the sassi abandoned, save for the occasional crew brought by film makers (Pier Paolo Pasolini and Mel Gibson among them) in search of a biblical-looking backdrop. It was only in the 1990s that the Italian government encouraged people to move back. Residents revamped the cave dwellings as homes, restaurants, and inns. When the Sant’Angelo opened in 2004, it was the area’s first luxury hotel. The 19 cave rooms are sparsely but tastefully appointed with rustic wooden furniture. Some carved decorations—crosses, hearts, an owl—date back hundreds of years. Fossilized shells embedded in the walls reveal that the region once lay underwater. Eventually, my fiancé and I did emerge from our cave to wander the town’s ancient alleys. A local guide named Dora Cappiello took us into some of the 150 chiese rupestri (rock churches), where she pointed out wine troughs and frescoes of San Nicola, the patron saint of local shepherds. We also visited a cave dwelling that had been restored to resemble its state when the caves were equal parts manger and living space.
Simple, delicious meals punctuated our explorations. The curvy walls of Baccanti, a cave restaurant, created a private nook where we feasted on silky pappardelle pasta with a cinghiale (wild boar) ragu, accompanied by a dry, fruity red aglianico from the nearby Vulture wine region. Tired and sated after a full day, we headed back to our cave—on moonless nights, a flashlight or trail of bread crumbs is advised for the stumble back to the hotel—where the promise of a deep, sound night’s sleep awaited. —Amy Cortese Hotel Sant’Angelo, 39/0835-314010, from $211 for a double. This appeared in the March/April 2010 issue.

At Sewall’s Point in the Harbour Bay Plaza on S.E. Ocean Blvd. (3720 ), you can dine in an authentic Italian restaurant on fresh, tasty fare. Renato’s has been in this location for 18 years pleasing their regular customers and many newcomers each year. This is a family owned restaurant that is run by Renato & Josephine Maira whose roots are Sicilian. Josephine makes sure to stop by each table and chat with the diners. She is friendly and cheerful. The staff is helpful and professional. The restaurant’s decor is all Italian from the authentic Sicilian hand painted donkey cart to the murals of different cities and towns in Italy. Family recipes from grandparents and parents are successfully used in Renato’s. The food is well prepared and tasty. Try the Antipasto Misto, Chicken Scarparello, or Linguine Vongole. Don’t forget expresso and desert. The wine list is excellent and extensive. There is outdoor patio seating as well as the indoor dining rooms. On Friday and Saturday evenings, Zoltan Racz entertains with international accordion music. Try Renato’s Italian Ristorante & Grill. You won’t be disappointed if you like authentic Italian food. Another plus: they accept reservations. (772) 219-9600

Complete with an in-shop florist and white, honeycomb-tiled wall, this light-filled coffee shop is one of San Diego’s most Instagramworthy spaces. Luckily, it offers more than just good looks—the coffee comes from San Francisco’s Sightglass and the menu includes lavender-honey toast, chia pudding, and an assortment of croissants from Wayfarer Bread & Pastry. Owner Jen Byard is also the cofounder of San Diego’s popular Maker’s Arcade, a holiday market that takes place every December, so she has an eye for artisan items. Communal’s retail section is always stocked with tasteful finds like ceramic mugs and Mexican blankets.

The second hotel from the jewelry and fashion house of the same name when it opened in 2006, Bulgari Resort Bali is an Italianate stunner sitting 525 feet above sea level on the cliffs of Uluwatu. While the hotel’s sophisticated vibe stays true to the brand’s roots, hand-hewn volcanic rock, Javanese mahogany, carved antiques, and locally made fabrics in the 58 pool villas reflect the heritage of the archipelago.

Asian-European duality is a prominent theme here: One restaurant, Sangkar, focuses on Indonesian fare, while the intimate, dinner-only Il Ristorante – Luca Fantin is a prix fixe journey through coastal Italian cuisine. There’s a working temple at the highest point of the resort that staff use to perform daily rituals; guests can take part in blessing ceremonies here too. Flexible check-in and check-out times, an on-call private yoga instructor, village walks, and butler service are additional gratis perks.

The elevator that descends dramatically down the cliff to Bulgari’s serene beach club is a privilege only for guests, as are lunches at the seafood-celebrating, cliffside-hugging La Spiaggia. The Bulgari Bar is the place to be for sunset hour, when Italian canapés are served alongside the sapphire Indian Ocean. It would be a shame to miss a trip to the spa, where pampering treatments draw from the rituals of Balinese royalty. From $1,300


Related: The 15 Best Luxury Resorts in Bali and the Indonesian Islands