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I was nervous to head to Yangon, Myanmar this past winter for a week of solo travel. Once I arrived, I found an incredible city with even more fascinating and friendly people. Shut off from the rest of the world for quite some time, Burma is reawakening. There’s charm in everything - from the grand, gorgeous and crumbling architecture to the small moments ... like this rusted can of of milk serving as a peanut container.

In a city known for clean lines, Stockholm’s Södermalm district (“Söder” to locals) is surprisingly nonconformist. A slum in the 18th century, the neighborhood is now home to a mix of clothing and furniture shops; Thai, Greek, and Turkish restaurants; historic falu red cottages; and one famous fictional character, Mikael Blomkvist, the journalist in Stieg Larsson’s bestseller The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Linger at a cafe along the main square, Medborgarplatsen, and take in the scene.

New York, Tokyo, and other major cities are home to startling numbers of authentic Neapolitan pizzerias, many with ovens handmade by Neapolitan craftsmen. In those places, pizza making is definitely considered an elevated craft. Perhaps Neapolitans do not think of their cooks as artists because so much of the city’s cuisine is rooted in cucina popolare, or people’s food. What strikes me most about the food of Naples is the uniformly high standards in even the humblest restaurants. That goes for pizzas as well, which makes it impossible to single out one pizzeria. Or so I thought until I visited La Notizia, located up in the hills on the edge of the gritty working-class borough of Fuorigrotta (too far from central Naples to be reached on foot). Owner-chef Enzo Coccia is as obsessed with the details of materials and technique as any Neapolitan tailor.

From my first bite, Coccia’s pizza struck me as something categorically different and decidedly better than anything I had tasted in Naples—or anywhere else in the world. It was feather light but still chewy, the way Neapolitan pizza should be. The thin middle crust didn’t dissolve into a soupy blend of cheese and tomato. When I asked Coccia about his technique, he formed two small test rounds of dough. He flattened one by hand; the other he rolled out with a can. He threw them both into the wood-burning oven and pulled them out 30 seconds later. The hand-formed dough was light and airy. The can-leveled dough was dense. “I prepare my dough at seven in the morning,” said Coccia. “It needs 14 to 16 hours to rise. I make only 300 pizzas’ worth of dough, and when that’s done, we close. Of course it takes the best and freshest ingredients—artisan mozzarella and local extra virgin olive oil—but it’s more than that. You need a passion for the traditional way. Then pizza can be as artisanal as a suit. 39/(0) 081-714-2155. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue.

Upon first entering the famed blue doors of Per Se, located inside the Time Warner Center overlooking Central Park, the dining room has the air of a wake, filled stiff collars and hushed tones. But no matter the attitude, the fact is that everyone in the dining room waited at least a month for this moment. At Per Se, you can only make a reservation one month in advance (maximum), and, if you procrastinate a day or two (say 28 or days or less before your desired date) you’ve likely missed your chance. (Do take note that you cannot cancel a reservation within seven days without being charged $175 per seat reserved.) This is an experience that will last up to four hours, where you are served from five to nine courses (depending on the menu you select), with many surprises in between, including personalized menus with your name and event (if you’re celebrating anything) on each. Now, if you’re still interested and not frightened away by the potential cost, then you’re in for an amazing afternoon or evening of small plates with the most amazing tastes you’ll ever come across. Do not be deterred by the portion sizes as you will most certainly leave full. It might even be best if you arrive on the borderline of famished, as it is a crime to leave anything behind.

Opened in 1915 as Tent City—a string of luxury canvas tents along Lac Beauvert, with vistas of Whistlers Peak and Pyramid Mountain—the iconic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge was possibly North America’s first “glamping” site. The destination proved wildly popular, and in 1922 a main lodge was opened, as well as a series of luxury log cabins spread across 700 acres in the heart of Jasper National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Bristling with Douglas firs and pine trees, the property sees herds of elk nibbling the grass, chipmunks scurrying through the trees, and even the occasional bear. The 442 rooming options—all of which were renovated between 2015 and 2017—include cozy spots in the main building, fireplace-equipped Junior Suites, and bring-the-whole-family Signature Cabins, all with views across the lake or the forest and mountains. The newly introduced Estate Cabins, located near the golf course, feature a private gated entrance for a more residential feel. Classic lodge-style interior design is the order of the day in the cabins, with wood beams and a combination of earthy and granite tones, while rooms and suites are clean-lined and decked out in fresh white bedding and light wood accents.

Support local artists and designers at the Patio del Liceo. The namesake courtyard, tucked away from Avenida Santa Fe’s hustle and bustle, connects art galleries, clothes and shoe shops, and, notably, boutiques selling eco-friendly home decor. Walk to the end of each gallery level to watch designers at work: Many of the spaces also function as workshops where the goods on offer are made. Pick up a beautiful book at Brezal, the glassed-in stall in the main entry hall; get a customized gift for your pet at Think Animal; or take home some local music from Mercurio Disquería. Afternoon visits are recommended, as many shops don’t open until 4 p.m. or later.

These beloved baths are not just the site of a favorite swimming beach on Lake Geneva; they are a local institution. The baths are busiest in summer when the lake teems with swimmers and boats, but also stay active and open in winter months when local Polar Bear Club members plunge into the icy Alps-fed lake. After the bracing jump, it feels divine to warm up in the bath’s two mixed-sex saunas, and two hammams (one for women only). The facility is fully equipped with lockers, hot showers, and hair-dryers, as well as nooks in front of the large glass windows for soaking up the sun. Les Bains are also home to one of the city’s best fondue spots, La Buvette des Bains. Every September, after the summer season, some locker rooms are converted to a cozy dining room with wood stoves where diners dip bread into steamy melted cheese concoctions, and even take in a cultural performance or lecture on certain nights.

Even if it weren’t arguably the grandest hotel in all of Prague, you’re simply not going to find a more centrally located address than the five-star Four Seasons. At the foot of the Charles Bridge in medieval Old Town—with views across the Vltava to Prague Castle in one direction and over the Jewish Quarter and Rudolfinum Concert Hall in the other—the 157-room property is, in fact, three distinct historic buildings—one Baroque circa 1568, another Neoclassical from 1827, and the last an 1883 Neo-Renaissance edifice—tied together by a contemporary main building built in 2001. Given a sumptuous makeover by renowned French designer Pierre-Yves Rochon in 2012, the rooms and public spaces feel at once stylishly modern and timelessly refined. Though the neighborhood’s attractions beckon, don’t miss a chance to dine at CottoCrudo, the riverside Mediterranean restaurant and bar that is considered one of the city’s best.

Nestled among the boutiques and restaurants that line the city’s main shopping street, the historic Hotel Goldener Hirsch has all the hallmarks of a Tyrolean hunting lodge right in the heart of medieval Old Town, from vaulted ceilings and mounted antlers to staff dressed in lederhosen and dirndls. Vintage guest-room keys are embellished with stag silhouettes, and even the tableware and linens in the two restaurants (one a former blacksmith, the other a goldsmith) feature the signature leaping-deer motif. Both serve hearty local fare—stop in for schnitzels, beef goulash, and bratwurst with sauerkraut, then call it a night in one of 70 cozy guest rooms, which balance cheerful country textiles and antique furnishings with modern amenities like flat-screen TVs, minibars, and free Wi-Fi.

Amid the city’s 2008 construction boom, Delta Toronto is now at the heart of a brand-new neighborhood: South Core (or SOCO). The mixed-use area of condos and businesses sits near tourist attractions like the CN Tower. The hotel opened in late 2014, and the Canadian Delta chain is now owned by Marriott.

The 46-floor property was designed by architect Mansoor Khazerouni of IBI Architects, who drew inspiration from a glass of champagne. Look closely, and you’ll spot white flecks in the blue glass, like bubbles rising to the top of the building. In the interiors, you’ll see subtle odes to Canada, including a stairwell mural of Canada’s landscapes, from the West Coast to the Atlantic, created by artist Adrian Forrow; it’s a visual interpretation of a cross-country journey. The vibrant Brise Soleil mural in the lobby showcases Toronto landmarks including the CN Tower and Ripley’s Aquarium. Even the meeting rooms are named after Toronto’s neighborhoods.

Set right on the banks of Lady Bird Lake as it passes downtown, the Four Seasons Hotel Austin performs the impressive juggling act of feeling like both a glamorous city stay and a picturesque, elegant resort. On one side is Live Oak, a local hot spot for live music, on the other the sun-lounger–lined saltwater pool that looks out over the sprawling lawn and the lake beyond. This outdoorsy-meets-hip dichotomy is part of what defines Austin, and the hotel is right at the heart of it: Lady Bird Lake Hike and Bike Trail is the closest of many urban trails, and the food trucks and record stores of the trendy Downtown and Bouldin Creek neighborhoods are within walking distance—a rarity in this expansive city.

A Hill Country–inspired spa and Latin restaurant draw locals, while elegant rooms (updated in 2017) with lake views and signature Four Seasons service—think seasonal lemonade or hot apple cider on arrival and s’mores (weather permitting) on the back patio—make stays extra special.

Nicer than your average hostel, cooler than the typical chain hotel—this buzzy hybrid offers hostel-style dorms and more traditional accommodations in a 1930s Art Deco building on Reykjavik’s main drag. Designed by hotelier-owner Klaus Ortlieb (of New York’s Gotham Hotel and London’s Claridge’s), the hostel rooms are simple but smart, featuring metal-frame bunk beds, designer armchairs and sofas, and wood tables. The 18 hotel rooms are much more impressive, with elegant coffee-and-cream color schemes, king-size beds draped in Lissadell linens, and en suite bathrooms with C.O. Bigelow products. Most also come with private balconies that look out over colorful rooftops and mountain landscapes. The old-fashioned lobby and bar area—which is strewn with antique furnishings, exotic wall hangings, and leather sofas and armchairs—is a popular hangout for the city’s bright young things, but if you’re looking for something more low-key there’s an on-site movie theater with a carefully chosen selection of Icelandic films.

Frederiksholms Canal is a small canal that is connected to Copenhagen Harbor and which surrounds and creates the small island of Slotsholmen. Slotsholmen is significant because it serves as home to Christiansborg Palace, the seat of the Danish Parliament, as well as museums, and the Royal Danish Library. More than just a glorified moat, the canal has a number of historical boats moored along its banks and serves as a lovely spot to enjoy the Danish weather. For a quirky surprise look into the canal’s depths just off of Højbro bridge for an other-worldly piece of submerged art.

If you’ve made the trip to Thames Town or the Shanghai Film Studios, then you’re already a bit familiar with the suburb of Songjiang. But beyond fabricated villages and recreated sets, Songjiang holds a fair amount of cultural charm as well.



For a historic tour, start your trip with a visit to the Songjiang Mosque, which dates back to the 14th century. You’ll also notice a cemetery here with headstones in Arabic and Chinese, a tribute to the number of Muslims residing in China.


From here, head over to the Fangta Pagoda (in the southeastern corner of town) or Xilin Pagoda and Buddhist Temple (in the western part of the city).


A trip to the Zhubai Pond (64 Songjiang Renmin Nan Lu) will round out your historical exploits and give you that last bit of peace and quiet.


Fuel up at the Red Bar on the 3rd floor of Kaiyuan Med shopping mall before heading back into the city.


How to get here: Take line 9 to Songjiang Xincheng Station and then hop on a taxi from there.

One of Bill White’s collection of restaurants, Sushi Blue serves an eclectic mix of items, from a full sushi bar to “Rad Thai” and Korean street tacos, and a great burger. It’s a great place to go if you have a mix of sushi lovers and “not so much” in your dining party. The Green Papaya Salad with cherry tomatoes, cilantro, crushed peanuts and citrus dressing is refreshing. For signature sushi rolls, try the Holy Shishito, with albacore, grilled shishito pepper and cucumber topped with red snapper, avocado, and spicy roasted onion ponzu. The easy access to this restaurant in the Redstone shopping area makes it a popular choice.